Blocking Crochet: An Overview

What Does Blocking Crochet Mean?

This blog post is an overview of what blocking crochet means. It’ll be a quick guide to cover all the basics without, fingers crossed, being too hardcore about it. However, there are a couple of things included that are slightly more than “basic”. Forgive me, I couldn’t bring myself to leave out any of the info.

I also need to get through this whole post without writing “Blcoking”. Wish me luck.

Whilst I am not normally a stickler for the rules, I do believe that blocking is essential if you want your crochet to look its very best. You have gone to so much trouble to hook up hundreds of stitches, why not put in one last burst of energy to make your truly crochet shine! I feel that it’s a necessary evil. Blocking crochet makes your work stand out and look even more fantastic than it already is.

If you don’t want to read about this riveting subject, check out my video about blocking crochet. It covers very similar ground, plus it has some comparisons and demonstrations.

If you are relatively new to crochet, you could also read my overview about all the other things you need to learn how to crochet. Hopefully, you find that blog post useful. Aaaand, check out some more crochet tips and tricks here!

For the most part, I block all my crochet garments, as well as shawls, scarves, and cowls. I’ve also even been known to block a crochet hat — with a balloon!

First of all, the big question is: What is blocking? If you hear people talking about blocking crochet, what does that mean?

Blocking Your Crochet: An Overview

Blocking is about making the best of your crochet by using moisture, and sometimes heat, to set your stitches. It changes the fabric you have created into a new form.

When you block your new crochet project, it opens up and sets stitches into their final “look”. Depending on the yarn you’ve used, you can wash/soak, rinse and blot your crochet before pinning it out to dry. Or pin it out first, then steam or spray crochet fabric with water and leave it to dry. That’s all blocking is. You can pin crochet fabric out to particular measurements, but often, you can wing it.

Once a crochet item has been blocked, the fabric size and drape can be different to what your crochet looked and felt like before you dunked it in soapy water. Stitches can bloom open, and yarn softens beautifully. Blocking crochet creates a beautiful drape, and if you’re making a crochet garment, it will make sure that it fits how the design was intended.

Or, if you carelessly steam-block with an iron, you could melt your precious crochet. Please be careful!

What Tools Do You Need For Blocking Crochet?

You do not need ALL the gear. To begin, you can make do with just some basics. When I first started blocking my crochet projects, I used dressmaker’s pins and pinned my finished objects (FO) directly onto the carpet. If the carpet was lucky, I’d put a towel down first. These tools worked, but they were not ideal in the long term. I have since collected a few more items that make blocking crochet a lot easier. (Also, it isn’t advisable to use dressmaker’s pins, or pin directly onto carpet!)

When I realised that taking the extra steps to block my crochet items was worth it, I invested in what I think are the absolute basics: a handful of foam blocking mats and some proper blocking pins (ones that weren’t going to rust and ruin my precious crochet). You may also benefit from having a heavy dose of patience in your arsenal.

Blocking Mats

Blocking mats are usually square foam mats/boards that interlock to give you a suitably sized surface area. They provide a sturdy and protective surface onto which you pin out your crochet and knitting projects.

Buy them from the hardware store or supermarket. I know that some folks use children’s foam play mats effectively, and there are mats specifically designed for the job of blocking. Or, I’ve used a yoga mat quite effectively in the past, however, it is not as structured as a foam mat.

Blocking Pins

You can buy boxes of blocking specific pins. Choose ones that are designed for the job you need them for, like T-pins. Other pins will be too weak and possibly prone to rusting. You’ll likely be using moisture for blocking, so you need strong stainless steel pins.

Then, if you’re short on time or just lazy, knit blockers are a Godsend! They are little sets of sharp pins, held in plastic, that sit neatly together in a row. They make blocking crochet a bit more bearable if you ask me.

I have two boxes of the knit blockers and thinking that a third set might be wise. Two boxes can efficiently block one garment when it’s in pieces. I often block a couple of things at the same time, so need/want more.

If I don’t make it clear in my Blocking Crochet video on YouTube, place the pins at a slant, angling them outwards. This holds the tension better.

Blocking Boards

Blocking boards are great for granny squares. They are solid boards with holes so you can place little evenly spaced dowels to hold the tension of crochet squares and set them into shape.

Whilst I have a few different sized blocking boards like this, I confess that I don’t ever use them. I lost the dowels, which doesn’t help!

Blocking Wires

Blocking wires can be pricey, especially if you’re not going to use them frequently. They are my best friend when I block crescent shawls as they curve with the crochet.

These fine, bendable yet strong wires always ping back to their original form. They are another time saver as they negate the use of quite so many pins. They hold tension evenly along long stretches of fabric, and you only need to place the pins intermittently to hold the wires.

However, with some chunkier crochet projects, you can affect the fabric at the blocking stage because you’re blocking the blocking itself, if that makes sense!? In other words, thicker yarns can be pushed out of shape if you thread the wires in and out of the edges. It can create and little wavey ripple along the edge, and you don’t want that.

Therefore, you kind of have to pick and choose what tools you use for the type of crochet project that you’re blocking. Take a look at the YouTube video about Blocking Crochet (around the 48 minute mark). You’ll see a cowl with a scallop edge. Take note of the edge with the wire versus the pinned edge. Do you see what I mean about the wibble edge?

Before I bought the wires, I used to use knitting needles! Got away with them for the lace weight & sock weight shawl (below) but not the best tools for the job!

A Steamer

You don’t need a steamer if you have an iron with a steam function, but I found myself steaming things more than ironing. I no longer know where my iron is since I purchased my steamer. They are a better tool for the job of blocking if you can justify having one.

When you have pinned out your crochet to the measurements you want, the steamer is waved across the fabric, just above it (you don’t want to get too close as there’s a risk of overdoing it).

Once you have gone over the surface areas of the crochet, leave it to dry, and then it’ll be ready.

A Mister for Spray Blocking

I have a spray bottle that is a real work horse, used in cutting the boys’ hair, misting plants and mostly, spray blocking my crochet! This is the “laziest” of the three main methods. More on this in a sec…

A Pool Noodle!?

Oh, I have a pool noodle cut in half for when I block things where a crease would upset me!! Take a look at the bobble cowl pic (below) from my Mix & Match crochet cowl pattern. I don’t whip these out very often, but you can see why they might be useful for some crochet pieces! If they roll towards each other, pop in a few pins in appropriate places to stop them.

Hap Frames for Blocking

Blocking frames are predominantly used by knitters who make hap shawls. I made a crochet hap shawl called the Barton Hap, which featured in John Arbon Textiles Annual 3. My father-in-law very kindly made me a blocking frame so that I could block the two hap shawls I made. They were huge and, without the frame, they would have been really tricky to block. Storing the drying shawls in an upright position was so much better than having them spread across a floor space.

I still employed the wires, too, as there weren’t enough dowels for all the crochet peaks around the edge of the shawl. The crochet shawl needed to be taut, like a drum, so I evenly pulled (somewhat aggressively) and secured the fabric in place. I watched a few YouTube videos to learn how to do this.

Methods to Block Crochet

There are three main ways to block crochet. The method I choose largely depends on what fibre I have been working with. Whichever method you choose, it is advisable to work up a swatch in the yarn you’ve used in your crochet project and block that in your chosen method. How does the swatch react? Because that’s likely to be how your FO (finished object) is going to act.

The chances are that you have to make a swatch anyway, as you will want to measure your gauge accurately. Blocking your tension square in the same way you intend to block final crochet items will give you the information you need. If you’re following a pattern, the gauge info and final measurements will be included, and these give makers an idea of how something should be blocked.

Also, don’t forget to check the yarn label for care instructions before embarking on any kind of blocking.

TLDR Crochet Blocking Methods

In just a moment, I’ll go over each method in more detail, but generally, the three main ways of blocking crochet are:

• WET BLOCKING. This is great for natural fibres (wools and cottons alike). It doesn’t work for acrylic as the material ignores the moisture and stretching, and will ping back to its original state. You need to be careful during the process of wet blocking as this feels like the stage when your precious stitches are at their most vulnerable. The fabric stretch will be really evident, so be gentle. The results are usually fantastic.
• STEAM BLOCKING. This uses heat as well as stretch to fix crochet fabric. You don’t need to pre-wash, just pin out onto blocking mats to the shape and measurements you need. Use a steamer for the moisture to penetrate the fibres. The mix of heat and moisture will help set the stitches. Be careful with this one; it’s great for acrylic blends, but the heat manipulates acrylic fibres so you could melt or “kill” the fabric.
• SPRAY BLOCKING. You have pinned out your crochet already. Next, use a mister (spray bottle) to spritz water over the fabric and leave it to dry. This is another method for natural fibres and won’t work for acrylic yarn. The more gentle nature of spray blocking means it’s a good method for first timers.

Pinning Out Your Crochet

Regardless of the blocking method, 99.9% of the time, you will pin out your crochet. Once you have started pinning out, you may need to adjust and play around with the placement. That’s OK. It happens all the time. Start somewhere in the middle rather than a far end/corner. You can then work outwards towards the ends/corners, which tends to help balance everything better. If you find yourself fannying about too much, step away and then reevaluate.

Use plenty of pins, and/or the sets of blockers. If you use too few pins, then dips between each pointy fixture might get set into the final piece.

That action of pinning out means the crochet fabric will have stretched out a little bit.

Aggressive Blocking?

There are different levels of stretch and pull when pinning out crochet fabric. As with the Barton Hap shawl, which was aggressively blocked on the frame, some crochet stitches and yarn combos look best when they are pulled and stretched into shape. Lace work looks and feels delicate and dainty, but I have often found that these types of crochet fabrics are the ones that need a good seeing to.

That tension creates the drape that is required in a shawl. It might not be so good for a garment as it could end up looking saggy when it isn’t supposed to fit that way. In my experience, you shouldn’t be quite so forceful with garment pieces. A little bit of tension is fine to set those pieces.

If in any doubt about the level of force required in pulling out the fabric, go easy first. It’s less heartbreaking to block a second time, using a bit more welly, than it is to overdo it on the first go. However, I am probably fearmongering here, I don’t think I’ve ever messed up by overstretching.

Wet Blocking

I always follow the same process to wet block my crochet pieces: The bathroom basin is filled with warm water and a small splash of wool wash soap. The crochet is either left to its own devices, or I help it along by pressing it down into the water. Then it’s a case of leaving it to soak for a bit.

Some say that you should leave it for 20-30 minutes to really allow the water to get into the fibres. I say, once it’s wet, it’s wet. And so I only leave it for a few minutes. I might walk off and do something else for quarter of an hour, by which time it should be ready for a rinse.

Fill the sink with clean water and submerge again. Then say goodbye to the wet stuff and gently squeeze your crochet of all the excess water. Do not twist or wring the fabric. Instead, it helps to blot your crochet fabric in a towel. Just roll it up into a sausage and dolly step along the rolled up towel.

Then it’s time to pin everything out onto blocking mats.

I have found that many wet blocked garments can be blocked by their own weight and I don’t necessarily need to use pins. A garment can be laid out flat onto the mats (with or without a towel on top of the mats – it dries quicker with one) and the whole process of washing is enough for the jumper (or whatever) to relax into its new state. However, there are times when the fabric needs a little help.

Wet Blocking Crochet, an Example

Pre-blocking, I was a little worried about the fit of my Little Fluffy Clouds cardigan (pictured below) as the puff stitches were a little tight and the sleeves were a teensy bit too short. Pins were needed to ensure the fabric was stretched more. I needed to be a fractionally more aggressive on this occasion.

Shawls always need pins, they’re not weighty enough to do the job on their own. Stretching and pinning out creates a tidier shape, superior drape and opens up lacey stitches.

Steam Blocking

I steam block crochet that uses acrylic blends (eg, acrylic mixed with wool). Steam works best for the blended yarns, as it treats all the fibres with heat. I’ve used it for cotton too and that’s worked very nicely.

As previously mentioned, there is no need to pre-wash an FO before pinning out if you’re going to steam block.

Steam blocking is often recommended for acrylic fibres, but I will be completely honest here. Whenever I have made crochet clothes with 100% acrylic fibre, I haven’t bothered blocking at all! After a few visits to the washing machine, an acrylic sweater kind of blocks itself. Plus, it prevents the risk of melting with too much heat, which doesn’t happen unless you’re overzealous with the steam.

Hold the steamer an inch or two above your crochet so it doesn’t get the full intensity of heat. Then leave to dry.

Spray/Spritz Blocking

Spray blocking is for light shawls and things that don’t need too much work. Pin out and spritz with water. It doesn’t take very long, and once a project has had a thorough spray of wet stuff, I can walk away and forget about it.

For steaming and spraying, do so away from electrical appliances and plug sockets. And anything else you don’t want to get wet.

Bonus Blocking Methods

If you have a newly made sweater and it’s 100% acrylic, steam will be the most effective. However, I don’t like the threat of my hard crochet work being “killed”, so you could try this easy-peasy method instead. The gentle, low heat of a tumble dryer, after you’ve washed your garment, can be enough to relax the fibres a little bit. Note! I don’t advise this for natural fibres.

Does hanging crochet blankets from the washing line count? I haven’t done this as I’m worried of an uneven finish. The weight seems to pull from each peg and could distort blankets, so I’ve avoided this method. I rarely block blankets tbh. Over time, general use seems to relax them into shape, and I seriously cannot be bothered to block a giant blanket. Eh!

Do You Need to Block Every Time You Wash Crochet?

The YouTube video about blocking crochet has been up for a couple of weeks, and the other day, I received a very good question: Do you have to block crochet after each wash? The answer is, you can if you want! Occasionally, a crochet project might shrink back a little, or the stitches become a little bit less pronounced. I have repinned and reblocked shawls in the past (if I’ve felt they needed a bit of attention).

However, if it’s for a hand-made garment, you probably don’t need to. It depends on how you can wash it. If you’re washing a crochet sweater made of non-superwash wool, you’ll likely need to hand wash and then dry flat. No pins necessary.

Look at your crochet item, is it a bit lifeless? Would reblocking make it snazzy again? If yes, sure, reblock. It’s up to you.

Which is Your Favourite Method of Blocking Crochet?

Ooh! What a lot of information to take in, especially if you have no previous experience of blocking! I hope it wasn’t too much? Despite it being an overview, there is a lot to cover in blocking crochet! Hopefully, I have covered all the elements. If it raises any questions, please do let me know.

Do you think you’re more likely to try blocking now? Does one method seem easier than another? Which is your favourite? Do you have any other tips for blocking crochet?

Whatever your views are on the subject, I do think it is 100% worth the effort. It doesn’t have to be a scary or time-consuming thing. An extra day or two of drying time to have even better crochet? Yes please!

And I finish this blog post with a cry of despair: How many times must I write that word??! I have mispelled “blcoking” entirely throughout this post, and to make matters worse, my auto correct was on the fritz – sad times.