Tag: craft

20 Crochet Patterns Using Mohair Yarn (and Other Floof)

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Fuzzy Duck is a crochet pattern using mohair yarn

Crochet Patterns That Use Mohair Yarn

Over the last few years, crochet patterns using mohair yarn have been on the rise. Watching this trend come through the ranks has been a joy because I absolutely LOVE mohair yarn in crochet! When I say mohair (from the angora goat), I often just mean all the floof. So, this isn’t only restricted to mohair blended with silk; I am happy to play with all the fluffy yarn! For example, I am also partial to brushed suri alpaca.

Ten years ago, mohair yarn was very much not in fashion. The fluffy stuff was relegated to ugly eighties and early nineties statement sweaters. Well, times have changed and guess what? Fuzzy jumpers are cool! If you watched The Game of Wool recently, you’ll have seen the contestants embrace mohair yarn and design some really awesome knitted sweaters.

As well as handmade sweaters, think about scarves, hats, and balaclavas. They are all being made with fluffy yarn.

When I was really getting into using mohair yarn in my crochet designs, I wrote some top tips for using the fluffy stuff. Check out the article, here. It’s definitely worth getting to know this playful yarn.

C2C in mohair and 4ply.
Fuzzy Duck, a crochet sweater pattern using mohair yarn
Cirrus, a crochet crescent shawl that uses mohair and boucle yarns in striped rows.

Mohair Yarn in Crochet Patterns

Look, I know mohair yarn is not everyone’s cup of tea. I have reasons to hate it; once, when I was a little girl, I was innocently making a cake while wearing the new mohair sweater that my Nanna had knitted for me. Not protected by a pinny, the fly-away fibres got stuck in the electric whisk, entangling me in the mechanisms. It wasn’t mohair’s fault, though, so I forgave it (even if it took a while).

Anyway, I guess what I’m trying to say is that it’s a bit like Marmite; you either love it or hate it, regardless of any culinary mishaps.

For some folks, it can be an allergen, or it’s just super itchy on their skin. However, there are alternatives out there: suri alpaca, for example, is naturally hypoallergenic. And if you’re looking for something more budget friendly, brushed acrylic yarns are on the market, too. It’s the appeal of the fuzzy halo that does it for me.

So, what’s so great about mohair yarn for crochet?

Great Things About Mohair Yarn For Crochet

Let’s do a little breakdown of what’s fab about using mohair in crochet patterns.

  • It’s soft and warm – If you’re not sensitive to scratchy wools, mohair creates the softest crochet fabric. Crochet patterns using mohair are winners for this reason alone, but there are plenty more…
  • With a lovely lustre, mohair has a super glossy sheen. The frequent addition of silk helps this, too.
  • Mohair is floaty light! It’s warm but also extremely light. On its own, it’s a great summer yarn. Held with another yarn, such as merino, you’ve got yourself a beautiful crochet accessory or garment that will keep you very cosy indeed.
  • The strong fibres of mohair mean crochet projects retain their shape.
  • It’s perfect for simple crochet stitches – In fact, it’s arguably risky to create elaborate patterns in mohair. I just can’t imagine the hours of frogging if a mistake is made 13 rows down.
  • It smooths out clunkier crochet stitches – Crochet patterns can sometimes create pixelated colour blocking in variegated or hand-dyed yarns. Adding mohair calms the colour changes.
  • A little goes a long way – The laceweight nature of most mohair yarn means you get a lot of meterage for your money. This is always a good thing when it comes to yarn-eating crochet patterns.

Crochet Patterns Using Mohair Yarn (And Other Floof)

A range of fluffy yarns, great for crochet patterns using mohair yarn

So, let’s take a look at some amazing crochet patterns using mohair yarn. Many patterns call for holding mohair yarn with other fibres to add to durability and texture. However, you don’t have to. It’s a versatile fibre, and you’ll find crochet patterns that cover both options.

I’ve split the following crochet patterns that use mohair into two categories. First, we have 10 crochet accessories, such as hats, shawls and scarves. This is then followed by 10 gorgeous crochet garments using mohair yarn.

Before you scroll on, there are even more patterns to peruse in this Ravelry bundle for crochet patterns using mohair. It features the patterns below, as well as others that I couldn’t fit in this blog post.

10 Crochet Patterns Using Mohair Yarn – Accessories

Wheatfields Shawl and Wrist Warmers

The wheatfields shawl is a crochet pattern for using mohair yarn
Crochet wrist warmers

The Wheatfields shawl uses an indie dyed sock-weight yarn held with a really nice mohair. Without a doubt, this crochet shawl has had more outings than any other of my crochet accessories. There was some yarn leftover, so I made matching wrist warmers!

The sock-weight yarn is from Flyy Dyed yarn, and it was exactly what I was looking for: a soft grey base with rusty speckles. I knew it’d work really well with a grey mohair yarn as the tones and speckles are gently blended together. Rachel dyes such pretty yarn; they are often OOAK dyes, so if you see a colour you love, get it while you can.

Find the Wheatfields shawl on Ravelry. Or, if you’re not a Rav user, you’ll find Wheatfields on Etsy.

Cirrus Crescent Crochet Shawl

Cirrus, a crochet crescent shawl pattern
Cirrus, a crochet pattern using mohair yarn

You don’t have to hold mohair lace-weight with other yarns. In the Cirrus shawl, the mohair contrasts beautifully with alternating stripes of speckled boucle. This is gossamer light and has small, simple stitches to showcase the yarn.

This crescent shawl uses one 50g skein of mohair and one 100g skein of dk boucle yarn. I bought both from the wonderful Amy of Mamie & Florrie. The idea for this shawl came from a knitted crescent shawl also made in Amy’s yarn. The Cloudy Nora shawl is just so stunning; something similar in crochet had to be created (I asked for permission first!).

Find the Cirrus shawl on Ravelry. Or, if you’re not a Rav user, you’ll find Cirrus on Etsy.

Barking Mad Crochet Scarf

A crochet pattern using mohair yarn
Barking Mad crochet scarf pattern using the Houndstooth stitch. A crochet pattern using mohair yarn

If I’m not wearing Wheatfields, I’m wearing this crochet scarf. It’s a crochet pattern using mohair yarn, but it looks great in a merino double knit, as well.

The Barking Mad scarf uses the Houndstooth stitch worked on the bias. It’s a free crochet pattern here on my blog. I love the stitch so much that I also designed a hat and a cowl.

If you wanted to buy a PDF rather than use the free Barking Mad scarf pattern, the purchasable pattern comes with the hat and cowl, too.

Find the Barking Mad on Ravelry. Or, if you’re not a Rav user, you’ll find Barking Mad on Etsy.

Isca Cowl and Headband

The Isca crochet cowl. This pattern uses merino 4ply held with mohair laceweight yarn.

This cute crochet set of a cowl and a matching headband is made using Along Avec Anna yarn. Anna’s shop is just down the road from me in Exeter, but her knitwear designs are known internationally. When her yarns were introduced, I knew I had to try them, and that’s where this design originated. Isca is the Celtic word for water or river, and the Roman name for Exeter.

A combination of bobbles and crochet ribbing creates a modern crochet cowl and head-warmer set. Find Isca on Ravelry. Or, if you’re not a Rav user, you’ll find Isca on Etsy

Hygge Hugs

Hygge Hugs shawl. A crochet pattern using mohair yarn

Hygge Hugs by Susan Chin is a crochet shawl with wrist warmers. It features in Laine’s first crochet book, Let’s Crochet! (one of my designs is in it too!!).

Embracing the granny stitch, Hygge Hugs sticks to the principle of keeping it simple for crochet patterns using mohair yarn.

Here’s the Ravelry description: The stitch pattern is a fun take on the traditional granny stitch, featuring rows of double crochet shells worked on the bias. Alternating rows of different yarn weights add texture, with a touch of mohair for extra fluffiness. The shawl’s wide wingspan allows for several styling options and effortless wear. The hand-warmers use yarn left from making the shawl. They are super quick to crochet, so you will have something warm and fuzzy in no time!

Mya Shawl

Claudia wears the Mya Shawl. A crochet pattern using mohair yarn

I made a Mya shawl when it was first published in Inside Crochet magazine. It’s a beautiful design by crochet shawl queen, Helda Panagary.

Similar to the Cirrus shawl, Mya uses alternating stripes of mohair and non-mohair yarns. This time, in a deep triangle-shaped shawl using the classic linen stitch. It makes perfect use of two complementary hand-dyed yarns with dainty stitches that work really well together.

Look at the lovely Claudia from Crochet Luna (above). I really love the yarns she chose for her version of Mya. Stunning! Claudia has a lovely crochet podcast on YouTube. Go and watch it!

Hippovanten Herr

Crochet mittens using alpaca and mohair yarn together.

Soft and cosy mittens using mohair held with alpaca yarn? Yes please! I think I might have to make these; their simple post stitches look really soothing (and speedy) to work up.

These crochet mittens come in three different sizes, and they are made with fingering-weight yarn held with lace-weight mohair. For me, it’s always the simple crochet stitches that create the most effective and modern looking style.

Find Hippovanten Herr on Ravelry.

Clover Beanie

The Clover Beanie. Worsted weight and mohair yarn held together.

The Clover Beanie by Cosmaudi is the epitome of modern, knit look crochet. If you’d like a crochet hat that incorporates short rows to have a snug fit, this looks like a great pattern to try. Initially, it is worked flat and then seamed after. This crochet hat uses worsted-weight yarn held with mohair; the combination means it’ll work up really quickly.

Subnivean Shawl

Puff Stitch scarf. A crochet pattern using mohair yarn on its own

The Subnivean shawl by Crochet Highway is a wide scarf that uses a worsted weight mohair yarn on its own rather than two yarns held together. The thicker yarn weight makes it easier to crochet with, too. Fluffy yarn works really well with these cloud-like puff stitches, and Ana-Maria offers yarn substitutions as well, so you can try different suggestions.

The crochet shawl is an easy to remember 4-row pattern repeat using a modified Jasmine stitch. I’ve not tried this before, but I think it would be a wonderful addition to a crocheter’s wardrobe. This is such a cute crochet design.

Etela Cowl – A Crochet Pattern Using Mohair Yarn

A simple crochet cowl pattern

This is the Etela cowl by Veronika Cromwell, a free pattern on her Blue Star Crochet blog. As soon as I saw this crochet cowl, I had to learn more about it. It is still on my list of things to make as I love the use of mohair combined with a waistcoat stitch. But it’s not just any waistcoat stitch; this is a half double (UK half treble) waistcoat stitch. With such a small tweak, the look of the stitch is transformed.

This is unfussy crochet as its best; it’s so chic, and I’m totally here for it!

10 Crochet Patterns Using Mohair Yarn – Garments

Fuzzy Duck Crochet Sweater Pattern

Fuzzy Duck sweater. A crochet pattern using mohair yarn

My own design! Yay!! This is a drop sleeve crochet pattern for a roll neck sweater, or there are instructions for a crew neck. Fuzzy Duck is worked in rows despite looking like it’s corner to corner. It’s so good, I enjoyed making it four times (although one of those sweaters is made with a wool DK rather than mohair)!

Fuzzy Duck holds a sock weight yarn held with a lace weight merino. Or, you can create the fuzzy halo with just one strand of Scheepjes Stone Washed as an alternative, which is a sport-weight yarn.

Find Fuzzy Duck on Ravelry, or if you’re not a Rav user, I also sell Fuzzy Duck in my Etsy store.

Ducky Fuzz – A Crochet Sweater Vest

Ducky Fuzz sweater vest. A crochet pattern using mohair yarn
Ducky Fuzz, crochet pattern using suri alpaca yarn

Ducky Fuzz crochet vest is only an indirect cousin of Fuzzy Duck. They’re both crochet patterns using fluffy yarns, and so they get matchy-matchy names. It’s purely for fun and japes because that kind of puerility makes me laugh.

The original, seagreen top is suri alpaca on its own. The striped version uses Stylecraft Grace, which is an aran-weight floof yarn that’s 85% acrylic, 5% wool and 10% mohair. It gives it a pretty halo, and in my experience is a little bit easier to frog if things go wrong.

If the fluffy yarn is too much for crochet ribbing and you’re a confident knitter, try a 1×1 knitted rib. Only crochet ribbing is included in the pattern, but the knitted edging is very simple to whip up without instructions (honestly, if I can do it…)

Find Ducky Fuzz on Ravelry here, or if you’re not a Rav user, find Ducky Fuzz on Etsy.

Sia Cardigan

The Sia Cardigan - a great first garment if you want to try a crochet pattern using mohair yarn.

The Sia cardigan by Showroom Crochet is a subtle approach to using mohair yarn; it’s modern, understated and proper wearable crochet. This would be a great first cardigan if you want to try a crochet pattern using mohair yarn.

Step-by-step guides and video tutorials will help crafters make this crochet cardigan. It’s definitely on my list of crochet garments to make, and I think it’d tempt me into buying Knitting for Olive yarn too!

Be Bold Sweater

Be Bold Sweater. A crochet pattern using mohair yarn

I remember noticing the Be Bold sweater in an issue of Inside Crochet magazine. It was seven years ago, yet I still recall thinking how cool it was. It’s bold and wants to be seen, isn’t it fab? It’s a crochet design by Michelle White of Dora Does.

This is a crochet design that uses mohair lace weight yarn on its own, again, sticking to simple stitches. I think that’s the theme throughout this collection! Let the fluffy yarn do the talking; don’t try to outdo it with fancy stitch patterns.

I have loads of saved images of mohair jumpers designed by Vivienne Westwood from the late 70’s. Michelle’s design reminds me of a modern take on that punk era, perhaps a bit more grown up!

Something Something Raglan

Red Something Something raglan. Acrochet pattern using mohair yarn

This bright red sweater is the Something Something Raglan by Moa Blomqvist. It’s a crochet pattern using mohair yarn on its own and has negative ease to create a fitted crochet garment. It’s worked top down, in the round, with additional customisable options for tweaking so you can make the perfect garment to fit your shape.

A smaller hook size means the stitches sit closer together. This creates a warm yet light crochet fabric.

Crocheted Kore – A Crochet Pattern With Mohair Yarn

using mohair yarn to embelish a simple crochet top

This is the Kore sweater by Maysa Tomikawa. It’s a genius idea; adding vertical mohair ruffles to a plain, oversized, cotton crochet top. It’s both simplistic and uber creative, I ruddy love it! It looks sophisticated, yet I know it’d be very speedy to work up. It is also a great crochet project if you’re cautious about using mohair for garments. I believe the mohair ruffles are added after the main body is worked up, so, in the unlikely event you go a little bit wrong, you haven’t messed up the entire thing! Wahoo!

You’ll find many of Maysa’s crochet designs also have knitted versions of the same design, showing the absolute versatility of yarn crafts.

I’ll Pencil You In Sweater

I'll Pencil you in is a crochet pattern using mohair yarn

I’ll Pencil You In is a crochet sweater that’s worked vertically, meaning rows are worked up and down. It’s very much on trend with its knit look crochet stitches.

This crochet design is by Lindsey Muscarell, aka Just the Worsted. Using worsted-weight, held with mohair, this is a sweater that can be crocheted in next to no time at all.

Epeire by Emmeline Bonhomme

Use simple crochet stitches when looking for a crochet pattern using mohair yarn

Epeire is a loose-fit, raglan sweater and another top that uses mohair on its own. It’s a pattern written in French, but including it is a must because it’s totally gorgeous. I’m sure it could easily be translated into English if French isn’t in your repertoire.

Similar to the Something Something Raglan, this is a raglan sleeve construction, worked from the top down. Yet, look at how different it is. There’s lots of positive ease in this one, making it laid back and really casual. It makes a fabulous layering piece, and the loose, open stitches have a rebellious vibe.

The vivid green? Eek, I want one! I have convinced myself that I could hook up Epeire in a weekend, but perhaps that’s slightly ambitious…

Rousseau

Rousseau, a beautiful crochet pattern using mohair yarn

This light, lacey top is called Rousseau, and it’s designed by Eline Alcocer. It is a very pretty crochet pattern using mohair yarn, which features in the latest crochet collection by Daruma.

The stitch pattern on Rousseau is slightly more complex than other patterns featured here. However, for experienced and/or ambitious crocheters, this is completely achievable. Not everything should be easy all the time. This is a great pattern to push your crochet skills. It’s more challenging than the other patterns here, but I do reckon the results would be 100% worth it.

Starlight Couple Cardigan

Modern crochet clothes. This design is a crochet pattern using mohair yarn

The Starlight Couple Cardigan is such a cool pattern. It’s designed by Susan’s Family, and it’s a free pattern that comes with a shedload of crochet charts to make it easier to follow. Plus, there’s a YouTube tutorial, which is a great visual aid to accompany the pattern.

This crochet cardigan is maybe the most challenging make in this list, which is why I’ve saved it until last! However, with sections of varying crochet stitches, each section is small, so easier to take one step at a time.

The shirt-like look of this top is very on trend, so I think it’s worth a go if you’re after a more advanced crochet project.

Will You Crochet with Mohair?

And there you have it, a collection of 20 designs for crochet patterns using mohair yarn! Is this something you have explored before?

I’m not going to deny that mohair is without challenges; sometimes, it’s tricky stuff to work with. If you haven’t worked with mohair yarn before, you may wish to aim for one of the easier crochet accessories to see how you go. Then you’ll be ready to embark on a crochet sweater! After a short time, it becomes much less difficult to work with two yarns together, and it is easier still when choosing the right pattern for the material.

So, what do you think of the collection of crochet patterns using mohair yarn? Which ones do you like the best? Have you got any other crochet patterns that I’ve missed? Let me know in the comments. Thank you and happy crocheting!

Cheers! xx

Hinterland Crochet Shawl

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Hinterland is an aran weight crochet shawl pattern.

Hinterland is an aran weight crochet shawl pattern that I designed back in 2018. It was a crochet design commissioned for Mollie Makes magazine, which is sadly no longer published (oh, how I loved Mollie Makes!).

In the magazine, the shawl was called Nordic Noir. I wasn’t keen on that title, so I changed the name when I published it independently. Hinterland, as a name, feels a little bit less moody.

For the first time, I’m offering it as a free crochet pattern, but you can still buy a print-friendly version on Ravelry (where I have lots of other crochet patterns). You can buy Hinterland in my Etsy store too.

Use your worsted weight yarn to crochet a shawl

Making the Hinterland Crochet Shawl

If you would like the free version of Hinterland, my aran-weight crochet shawl, please keep reading. I’ll throw in a few “How to” pictures as well, as I think that’s helpful. A chart and table of stitch counts are also included in the PDF version pattern for purchase.

To make your aran weight crochet shawl, you will need (funnily enough) some aran weight yarn. I have crocheted this shawl three times, and each time I have successfully used a different yarn brand. It’s a very versatile shawl. Sadly, I don’t remember the other brands, but that’s Ok as I don’t have many pics of them anyway. Just use your fave aran or worsted weight yarn and you won’t go far wrong.

However, a perfectly fine yarn to use, and the yarn I used in the original Hinterland shawl, is King Cole Fashion Aran. Unfortunately, it looks like the Shetland shade isn’t available anymore, but don’t worry, the range is pretty wide. I’m sure you can choose lots of colourful alternatives to make a beautiful crochet shawl. Just writing up this blog post makes me want to crochet a new version in totally different colours!

This aran weight crochet shawl pattern is super easy, and therefore, I would say that it’s suitable for beginners.

The finished size is approximately. It’s a big, warm hug of a shawl at 220 x 88 cm / 86.5 x 34.5 inches.

Hinterland, an aran weight crochet shawl pattern

Free Crochet Shawl Pattern Using Aran Weight Yarn

Hinterland’s Yarn and Hook Sizes.

As has been the case for my last few free crochet patterns, I’ve made the decision to write the freebie up in US terms. I didn’t always do this, but because many of my customers prefer US terms, it makes sense to move forward with this from now on. The paid-for version has both UK and US crochet terms.

King Cole Fashion Aran is 30% and 70% acrylic with 200m per 100g. You will need 300g (3x100g balls) of the main colour (YA) and 200g (2x100g balls) of the edging colour (YB).

For the main body of the shawl, you will need a 5.0 mm (UK 6, US H/8)  crochet hook. For the edging, change to a 5.5mm (US I) crochet hook. There is a slight difference in tension for the different crochet stitches, so to balance that, the different hook sizes are used. There’s nothing to stop you from using a different size of hook to find one that best suits your crochet style.

Ready to crochet?

Aran Weight Crochet Shawl Pattern

With YA and 5mm hook, chain 4
Row 1: (1dc, ch2, 2dc) in 4th ch from hook, turn. [2 sts per side, not inc 2 centre chains]
Row 2: Ch3, 1dc in same st, 2dc in next st, (1dc, 2ch, 1dc) in 2ch-sp, 2dc in next st, 2dc in top of 4th ch, turn. [5 sts per side & increasing by 3 sts each row]
Row 3: Ch3, 1dc in same st, 2dc in next st, 1dc along to center, (1dc, 2ch, 1dc) in 2ch-sp, 1dc along to last 2 sts, 2dc in next st, 2dc in top of 3rd ch, turn.

Row 4 – 7: Rep Row 3
Row 8: Ch4 (counts as 1dc and ch1, here & throughout), [1dc in next st, ch1] twice, skip next st, *1dc, ch1, skip 1 st; rep from * to center, (1dc, 2ch,1dc) in 2ch-sp, ch1, **skip 1 st, 1dc, ch1; rep from** to last 2 sts, 1dc in next st, ch1, 1dc in top of 3rd ch, turn. [12dc & 11ch sts / 23sts]
Row 9: Ch3, 1dc in same st, 2dc in 1st ch-sp, 1dc in next st, *1dc in ch-sp, 1dc in next st; rep from * to center, (1dc, 2ch, 1dc) in 2ch-sp, **1dc in next st, 1dc in ch-sp; rep from ** to last 2 sts, 2dc in last ch-sp, 2dc in top of 3rd ch, turn. [26 st per side]

Making Hinterland; an aran weight crochet shawl pattern

Row 10 – 15: Rep Row 3
Row 16: Rep Row 8
Row 17: Rep Row 9
Row 18 – 19: Rep Row 3
Row 20: Rep Row 8
Row 21: Rep Row 9
Row 22 – 27: Rep Row 3
Row 28: Rep Row 8
Row 29: Rep Row 9
Row 30 – 31: Rep Row 3
Row 32: Rep Row 8
Row 33: Rep Row 9
Row 34 – 39: Rep Row 3
Row 40: Rep Row 8
Row 41: Rep Row 9 [122 sts per side]

Crochet Linen Stitch Edging

Change to a 5.5 mm hook.
Row 42: Ch4, 1sc in same st, ch1, skip 1 st, *1sc, ch1, skip 1 st; rep from * to center, (1sc, 2ch, 1sc) in 2ch-sp, ch1, skip 1st, rep from * to end, finishing with (1sc, 1ch, 1dc) in top of 3rd ch, change colour to YB on last st, turn. [1dc, 62sc, 62ch / 125 sts & increasing by 3 sts per side, each row]

The dging on Hinterland; an aran weight crochet shawl pattern


Row 43: Ch4, 1sc in first sp, ch1, skip 1 st, *1sc in 1ch-sp, ch1, skip 1 st; rep from * to center, (1sc, 2ch, 1sc) in 2ch-sp, ch1, skip 1 st, rep from * to end finishing with (1sc, 1ch, 1dc) in last sp, turn.
Row 44 – 62: Rep Row 43
Row 63: Ch1 (does not count as a st), (1sc, 2ch, 1sc) in first ch-sp, 1sl st in next ch-sp, *(1sc, 2ch, 1sc) in next ch-sp, sl st in next); rep from * to center, (2sc, 2ch, 2sc) in 2ch-sp, **1sl st in next ch-sp, (1sc, 2ch, 1sc) in next; rep from ** to end.
Fasten off and sew in ends.

pinning out a crochet shawl to block

Blocking A Crochet Shawl

As luck would have it, I have a blog post all about blocking crochet projects. Feel free to check it out because it has lots of useful info. However, for this aran weight crochet shawl, I used a yarn that has a blend of wool and acrylic. Due to the acrylic content, I chose to steam block the Hinterland shawl. Be super careful when you do this because steam is HOT, and you do not want to melt all of your hard work.

To open up the stitches and give this shawl a beautiful drape, blocking is essential. Pin out onto foam blocking mats (or use a towel on the carpet). Take lots of care to steam block by holding an iron (with a steam function) an inch above the work. This is just so important, DO NOT let the iron touch the yarn; it will melt/burn acrylic yarn.
Leave to dry.

However, I thoroughly recommend getting a steamer; honestly, it totally takes away the fear of melting.

Steam blocking an aran weight crochet shawl

Making Tassels for your Crochet Shawl

Make three tassels; you want one for each point of your triangle shawl. If the following instructions don’t make sense, I have a How To Make Tassels video tutorial.

Wrap Yarn B around the width of a sturdy A5 book approximately 20 times. 
With a 30 cm piece of yarn, tie the lengths together in the middle, then cut the other ends. Fold the strands in half with the tie at the top so that you have a mini bundle of yarn. 
2cm down from the tied middle, tie another 30cm length of yarn around the lengths (you can wrap this around a couple of times) and let them hang with the other threads. 
Trim the tassel ends and tie them to the corners of the shawl for a nice finishing touch. Sew in the ends. 

Aran weight crochet shawl pattern called Hinterland

And voila! That’s how you make an aran weight crochet shawl. If you like this crochet pattern and would like to try some of my other designs, the best way to do that is to have a read through this blog! The first place to visit is my Free Crochet Pattern page. Let me know what you think because I would love to hear from you! 🙂

Easy Crochet Granny Triangle Shawl

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How to crochet a granny triangle shawl

How To Crochet A Granny Shawl

With the rise in popularity of using leftover scrap yarn, I thought it was the perfect time to revisit an old classic: the granny triangle shawl! You can’t go wrong with granny stripes worked into a crochet shawl pattern, so gather all your yarn leftovers; it’s time to work up a fabulous stash buster.

I designed my first crochet granny triangle shawl way back in 2016. I was relatively new to the world of crochet blogging and desperately wanted to put together a step-by-step photo tutorial. For 2025, I have made a few tweaks to make this granny triangle shawl even easier. Although, honestly, the old version isn’t hard at all.

I have tidied the edging of this new (very simple) crochet shawl, and that is the only change. Well, the yarns and colours here are a proper stash-busting scenario, whereas my original version had planned colour placement.

If you would prefer, you can buy an ad-free version of this pattern from Ravelry, complete with a helpful chart to show stitch placement. Or, check out YouTube for the video tutorial of this granny triangle shawl.

Granny stripe crochet shawl pattern

What You Need to Crochet a Granny Triangle Shawl

You could crochet your granny shawl in 4 ply, DK, or worsted, to name three different yarn weights. You could use the same colour of yarn throughout, or even self-striping yarn if you want to avoid sewing in all the ends.

This particular shawl measures 68.5 x 145 cm (27 X 57 inches) and uses approximately 225 grams of 4 ply/fingering/sock weight yarn. That’s roughly 1,012 yards/ just under 1,000 meters. For row 55, it’s about 10grams (40 – 45 metres), therefore, this would also be a great crochet pattern for using mini skeins.

Of course, you can make your shawl bigger or smaller. If you want a variation of the pattern, such as using a different yarn weight, the quantities and measurements will probably change. I really don’t think it matters too much for this crochet pattern. A granny triangle shawl can be made in whatever weight of yarn you like, with whatever hook size you like.

As I used 4 ply, I chose a 3.5mm crochet hook, which creates a pretty standard tension, so that there is a nice drape to the shawl.

Whether you’re using yarn stash in your favourite weight of yarn, or going to use all one colour from a special collection, it will likely work for this easy crochet project. But a granny triangle shawl does make the perfect stash busting crochet project, so let’s talk about that a bit more…

Colourful stashbusting crochet ideas. An easy granny stripe shawl pattern

The Ultimate Yarn Stashbuster!!

Projects where you can just grab all your yarn leftovers are the best! We’re all a bit skint at the moment, but it doesn’t mean we have to go without. Making sure yarn scraps are used and loved in a new crochet project is perfect. Creating something special from not very much at all? We can achieve that in crochet!

There’s nothing to stop you changing colour halfway through a row, either. Use up every last bit!

You don’t have to use 4ply yarn, you can use whatever you have in your yarn stash. In fact, my original granny triangle shawl is DK (double knitting) weight yarn.

If changing to a different yarn weight, all you need to do is change the hook size you use to create the drape and tension that you like best. You could even mix up your yarn weights for something, perhaps a bit more bonkers, but at least it’ll be truly unique.

The beauty of stashbusting yarn leftovers is that you can create crazy colour palettes in yarn you wouldn’t ordinarily plan. It can seem scary to throw all the colours in one project, but if you’re willing to go with the flow, you could end up with your new favourite crochet accessory!

Granny Triangle Shawl Pattern

If you’d prefer to have an ad-free version of this pattern (US & UK terms available), it is available in my Ravelry store to purchase. Or, if Rav isn’t your thing, find the pattern in my Etsy shop.

The following pattern is written in US terms. (Having explored the type of instructions I share on the blog, I’m now leaning towards US instructions as they seem to be preferred by most readers. I’m happy to share both UK & US instructions, which I have done in the past, but I’d rather not confuse things. Let me know your thoughts! Thanks!!).

Materials to Crochet a Granny Triangle Shawl

As discussed in more detail above, you need approximately 225 grams of 4ply yarn and 3.5mm crochet hook. Feel free to use any yarn you like, mix it up, go wild!

Abbreviations (US Crochet terms)

beg = beginning, BLO = back loop only, ch = chain, ch-sp = chain space, clu = cluster (3dc in same sp),
dc = double crochet, PM = place marker,  R/S = right side, sc = single crochet, st(s) = stitch(es), sp(s) = space(s),
sl st = slip stitch, rep = repeat, yrh = yarn round hook.

Crochet Granny Triangle Shawl

Note that you can purchase the PDF pattern for a small cost, or watch the video tutorial for free! Check out How to Crochet a Granny Triangle Shawl

Make a magic ring or ch4 and join with a sl st.

Row 1: Ch4 (counts as 1dc & 1ch), working into ring, 3dc, ch2, 3dc, ch1, 1dc, turn. – [1 st & 1 clu per side]
Row 2: Ch4, 3dc in first ch-sp, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in next 2ch-sp, (3dc, ch1, 1dc) in last ch-sp, ch col, turn. – 1 st & 2 clu per side]
Row 3: Ch4, 3dc in first ch-sp, 3dc in next sp between clu, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in 2ch-sp, 3dc in next sp, (3dc, ch1, 1dc) in last ch-sp, ch col, turn. – 1 st & 3 clu per side, increasing by 1 clu each row]
Rows 4 – 55: Ch4, 3dc in first ch-sp, *3dc in next sp; rep from * to centre 2ch-sp, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in next 2ch-sp, *3dc in next sp; rep from * to last ch-sp,  (3dc, ch1, 1dc) in last ch-sp, ch col, turn. – 1 st & 55 clu per side]

easy crochet granny triangle shawl

Easy Crochet Scallop Edging

To achieve the edging in the granny triangle shawl pattern, make sure you have an odd number of granny stripe rows. This way, your scallops will hit their mark in all the right places.
Note: You can choose which is the right side to work on at this point

Row 1 (R/S): Ch1, *1dc in first ch-sp, 7dc in next ch-sp; rep from * to centre 2ch-sp, 9dc in centre 2ch-sp, *1dc in next ch-sp, 7dc in next ch-sp: rep from to last ch-sp, 1dc in last ch-sp, fasten off and do not turn. – [27 scallops per side + 1 in center]
Row 2 (R/S): Working in the BLO, with right side facing you, join new yarn, ch1, *1sc in each dc st, sl st in dc; rep from * to last st, 1sc, fasten off and cut yarn. 
Sew in ends. You probably shouldn’t wait until the very end to sew in all ends. There are a lot!!! Sew in a couple every few rows to save yourself from the madness.

crochet a granny triangle shawl with a scallop edging

If you go wrong, it’s not the end of the world. My shawl has mistakes!! Watch my crochet podcast to see where I messed up!

And finally, this is a very simple granny triangle shawl, and one way to make it truly shine is to block it! It’s one extra step and so worth investing the time. Check out my blog all about blocking your crochet.

If you have enjoyed this pattern, please buy a crocheter a ko fi! And don’t forget to check out my other free crochet patterns, right here on the blog.

Cheers. x

Crochet granny triangle shawl using yarn scraps

Making A Crochet Granny Square Sweater!

Categories crochet, free pattern3 Comments on Making A Crochet Granny Square Sweater!
I made a crochet granny square sweater!

I Made a Crochet Granny Square Sweater & So Can You!

I’m going to write a little intro about my new crochet granny square sweater, but honestly, I’m too excited about it to make much sense! However, I will do my best to break everything down and provide as much information as possible, so that you can make your own colourful crochet sweater too.

Firstly, I must remember to give credit for the source of crafty inspiration. This crochet jumper, put together, block by block with happy little granny squares, has been inspired by the Ariana Cardigan by Amy Christoffers. It’s a very popular pattern that combines knit & crochet stitches. Funnily enough, I was so intrigued by hybrid patterns for knitting and crochet that I’ve written a blog post about my favourite knitchet/croknit patterns.

Other makers have made jumper versions of the cardi, and they all looked so lovely (on the Rav project page), I was super enthused to make one of my own, in my own colours and actually, with my own granny square pattern.

So, over the next few paragraphs, check out all the details you need to make your own jumper. I’ve pulled together all the info about yarn, charts and tutorials. There’s also a video of the making of this colourful crochet granny square sweater over on YouTube.

crochet granny square sweater

This is a Crochet Sweater Recipe

If you want to make the Ariana cardigan, luckily for you, a pattern already exists and it’s free on Ravelry. What you’ll read here is more of a recipe for a jumper inspired by the original. Probably the only thing they have in common is that the granny squares are on the diagonal and the ribbing is knitted.

Whilst I downloaded the original Ariana cardigan and gave it a quick once over, I didn’t read or follow it for this sweater. Therefore, I don’t feel like it’s wrong to share what I did in recipe format.

The other reason for it being a recipe rather than a pattern for a crochet granny square sweater is that garments using granny squares are a nightmare to grade across different sizes. Blocks of squares aren’t fun to format into wearables, and like me, perhaps you can get a pretty good idea of how to make a granny jumper without a pattern.

Below, I share the charts I drew up for two sizes, both of which can be tweaked to make bespoke, unique crochet garments. I have also shared a few tips on ways to make adjustments to your crochet granny square sweater.

Crochet granny square sweater pattern. Before the sleeves were adjustmed again.

TLDR – The Sweater Basics

Don’t forget to watch the crochet granny sweater YouTube video.

Step 1: Scroll down to charts and decide on large (64cm / 24inches wide) or small (48 cm / 19inches wide). Or make your own based on your measurements and the size of granny square you plan to use.

Step 2: For the large, dig out 700 grams /2000m /2120yds of DK stash in as many colours as you like, I recommend a minimum or 7 or so. The more colours you use, the more higgeldy piggeldy.

Step 3: With a 4mm hook (US G/6), crochet 54 squares and 15 triangles, working the final round with Join As You Go (JAYG) to join the sweater. Be careful at the sides and sleeves – use stitch markers to hold in place.

Step 4: With 4mm needles or hook, knit or crochet the ribbing.

Step 5: Sew in thousands of ends. I saved this until last in case I had to rip back any squares – eg to shorten verrry long sleeves. Actually, you can sew in the first 4 rounds of every single square and triangle before this stage….

The Essential Crochet Resources

making petal centred squares for my crochet granny square sweater

What You Need to Make a Crochet Granny Square Sweater

I used double knit (DK) yarn for this patchwork crochet sweater, a 4mm hook and 4mm knitting needles. Tension is not a major issue, as this is a design that’s ideal for making it up as you go along.

Just because I used DK doesn’t mean that you have to. Technically, you can make this sweater in any yarn weight. It’s worth working up a few swatch squares in your preferred yarns to see if they work. You can also get a rough idea of how much yarn you’ll need by making a swatch or two. Don’t forget to add in enough for ribbing, too.

If you veer off from DK, you will likely need to think about the number of rounds per granny square. I’ll chat about my measurements in a sec, and that should inform you on sizing. If you’re thinking of working granny squares that are drastically different in size or yarn weight, you’ll end up with a crochet granny square sweater with different measurements. However, if you’re happy to draft your own charts, I fully support your experimentation by cheering from the side.

yarn for my crochet granny square sweater

The Best Yarn for a Crochet Sweater

I think DK is perfect for a crochet sweater. If you go to heavier yarn weights, garments can start looking a bit clunky and heavy. Everyone is different, and we all have our own personal preferences, so at the end of the day, you can use your favourite weight of yarn. However, as garments go, DK is an awesome yarn weight. I love a lighter 4ply too, but for a crochet granny square sweater, 4ply yarn is more work as the squares would need to have more rounds to get them to the same size, and I kinda enjoyed this as the quick project that it was. Double-knit yarn is a good balance.

If you’re curious about different yarn weights and using something different, check out my blog post on Yarn Substitution.

The majority of my yarn stash here is wool I’d had for a number of years, which deserved to be part of a special crochet project. About five years ago, I treated myself to colourful skeins of merino from Folkestone Harbour Yarns. Then, to complement this collection, I matched it with rich brown shades from Loom Wool. It’s all gorgeous! I love that the browns are all slightly different; it adds a unique quality to my crochet sweater.

How Much Yarn Will You Need?

Make a granny square from a pattern that you’ll be using in your jumper (the one below, or other fave). If you’re being super diligent, wash and block it too. I’m not going to make you do this, but learning how to block crochet is useful for your garment-making endeavours. It determines final measurements (as well as other things), so it will help calculate sweater stats.

Weigh your square, and it will give you a fairly good idea of how much yarn you’ll need for the whole project. Multiply the weight of that one square by the final number of squares (don’t forget the triangles too). This is the total amount of yarn you’ll need.

Not gonna pretend I actually did this though. I just grabbed the lovely yarn stash I wanted to use up (and I am always going to have enough stash!). I think I used 10 colours plus the border colour. I made sure to have 4x 100 gram skeins of my joining colour, but there is plenty left.

The total weight of my finished jumper is just under 700 grams. I cannot recall the specific number, but I did weigh it especially for the YouTube video on making my crochet granny square jumper, so feel free to watch. I begrudgingly calculated yardage and meterage, too! Oof, from memory? Around 2000 metres/ 2120 yards.

The square that you make will also be useful to measure, so you can calculate the size of your sweater too (more on this below).

Cute Granny Square Pattern

crochet granny squares for a handmade sweater

There is only a slight change to the traditional granny square with this pattern, but it’s one I think makes a decent impact. The first round is eight dainty little petals rather than the standard four clusters. The following rounds are then just super simple granny clusters.

Find the granny square pattern here. The video tutorial that’s linked in that pattern is also useful to demonstrate the Join As You Go (JAYG) technique.

FYI, I have yet to determine how five rounds of this pattern compare to five rounds of a traditional granny square pattern. Just in case you assumed it was the same measurement. It might not be. *Shrugs*. Whatever the weather, these squares measure 16cm from corner point to corner point. As we’re working on the diagonal, this is the measurement you need.

The Granny Triangle Pattern

crochet granny triangles

Because this crochet granny square sweater is worked with the squares on the diagonal, triangles are also required to straighten the bottom edges of the main body and sleeves. Find the free granny triangle pattern here.

For both the granny square and granny triangles, I worked four rounds of each, knowing I was going to work a 5th round as I crocheted JAYG. Oh, and it’s best to sew in your ends after Round 4 so you’re not left with a hideous job of sewing in yarn tails at the end. Like I was….

Granny Sweater Measurements

Having decided on a granny square pattern with five rounds in DK yarn, there were two choices: go for fitted or oversized.

I was slightly concerned that the smaller option would be too tight across my chest. Knowing the measurements of the squares, I think the smaller size would just about fit my body (99cm circ), but with very little “positive ease” – i.e. extra room. I dithered and doubted enough to opt for the oversized version. Charts for the oversized version I made and the smaller, fitted size that I’d like to make are both below.

The following measurements are taken after I washed and blocked my jumper.

Sweater Measurement Details

My oversized jumper is 4 diagonal squares wide. Remember that 16 = one square’s point to point measurement in cm. 4 x 16 is 64cm (approx 25 inches). Therefore, this is the width of my crochet granny square sweater.

The sweater length, including the waistband, should come in at 53/54cm after blocking. What with the weight of the yarn and the wear it’s had, the final length of my sweater is more like 57cm. I’m happy with that!

The final sleeve length (with cuff) is 44cm (approx 17.5 inches). These are shorter than I would ordinarily make. The drop shoulder construction, paired with the oversized width, means the sleeves start further down my arm. Originally, I hadn’t factored this into my plans as well as I’d thought. So the sleeves I initially made were clownishly long. Bum. Long story short, I ripped out a few squares at the sleeves. I had a terrible time doing this, but I made the effort to change them because I wanted to be satisfied (and happy) with the result. Sometimes it’s worth pushing through the difficult times!

The upper arm depth is 16cm; the measurement of one square on the diagonal. There’s a bit of stretch here, too. That’s OK.

It’s useful to note that should you wish to adjust the sleeve length or main body length by only a fraction, you can add or subtract ribbing rows. I think I went for 9 rounds of ribbing, but redid cuffs and only did 8 rounds the second time around.

Measurements for crochet granny square sweater

Granny Sweater Chart – Square Layout

The layout of squares for a crochet granny square sweater.

If I have done my counting correctly, for the size I made, I needed 54 granny squares and 15 triangles. On the chart above, I have shaded out sections along the top of the sleeves and sides for the “front”. These squares are already accounted for on the back section (they’re just folded round – watch the video at timestamp 34:00 to see what I mean).

The chart above was useful to work out the sweater schematic, but what I found even more useful was to lay it out how I actually intended to join the granny squares.

Take a look at the next image. When joining, I left the squares A to H to the end. These needed to be joined in two different places to bring everything together, going from a flat piece of crochet fabric into a 3-dimensional structure. For example, square B is joined (JAYG method) to the sleeve at both the green and blue sections.

Using plenty of stitch markers at this point is enormously helpful as well. I think I would have struggled without temporarily pre-joining squares before crocheting them together. Using stitch markers to pin everything together first allows you to see that you’re on the right track, showing that you haven’t accidentally joined a side of B to the main body instead of the sleeve. You can see how easy it might be to accidentally incorporate the side of E (pink line) into the B join, as it sits right next door!

I also chat about this in the granny sweater video from 31:04, Sometimes it is easier to see a visual of it.

The Smaller Granny Square Sweater Size

Yes, I do want to make a second crochet granny square sweater, and I would like a fitted version. The initial chart for this is drawn up below. I have reduced it by one block in the body and lengthened the sleeves. I have a reasonably good feeling that this will work. If I have to reduce the sleeve length back down, I will. I won’t mind too much! If you have short arms, stick to the shorter sleeve.

However, look at the neck and you’ll see it’s different. It’s deeper at the front, and I left a triangular space at the back of the neck. Ultimately, if I put that triangle back in, the neck space would be the same as the large size, but with more of the action at the front. This means a deeper V-neck and no shaping at the back neck. There’s room for playing around with this, I think.

The neck is surprisingly gapey before adding the ribbing; it would be suitable for several sizes. Play around with the number of ribbing rounds to make adjustments.

Potentially, a triangle could be added at the front to square off the neck into a kind of round neck. I mention this in the video, but watching it back, it just looks like I’m wearing the sweater back to front!

And where it says 49cm, ugh, it’s supposed to be 48. Oops.

Knitted Ribbing on a Crochet Sweater!!

I know!!? It’s crazy, I’m such a huge crochet fan, but I knew I was going to grab this opportunity to improve my knitting skills. From just the ribbing sections, I have learned loads! Not only did I remind myself how to pick up stitches, I also worked Magic Loop for the first time, and tried SSK for the V neck shaping.

For the 2×2 knitted ribbing, I use continental style knitting as it’s easier to switch between knit and purl stitches. It’s got to the point where I have forgotten how to purl in throwing style. Links for the tutorials I used are above, in the resources section.

Don’t get me wrong, I have a long way to go in my knitting journey. If you look closely, you’ll no doubt see that I’ve done a terrible job; regardless, I am thrilled!

Alternatively, there are absolutely loads of crochet ribbing stitches you can use too. You know I love crochet ribbing!!

knitted ribbing on a crochet granny square sweater
Crochet granny square sweater

Adjustments & Issues re “Winging It”

The sleeves! They were way too long for me in the beginning, and I had to make adjustments. If you’re unsure, think about the body width of the jumper. If you are aiming for oversized, take this into account as it will have an effect on sleeve length. Think about the total wrist-to-wrist measurement (up one arm, across the back, down the other arm). That’s the measurement you want to aim for. Not always easy to do.

If your upper arm circumference is larger than 30-32cm, you may wish to consider adding another row of squares at the sleeve to make them wider. This comes with added complications as the construction at the underarm will change. It’s not something I’ve looked at before. In my head, I’m thinking of an additional square to create shaping under the armpit?? Sorry, I don’t have a clear guide for that.

If this is too much of a headache or, indeed, creates deeper sleeves than you would like, this is the moment where you’ll want to question the measurement of a single square. The alternative is to add another round to all squares and triangles. This will deepen the arm depth but also increase the width and length of your final crochet granny square sweater. What would you go for?

Final Thoughts on Making a Crochet Granny Square Sweater

crochet granny square sweater

Oh, I have so many photos I could share, but we’d be here forever. It’s all the unpretty step-by-step progress shots that I’m not sure would be that useful. Things like before and after sleeve changes, such as the ones below. They’re reminders of learning and progress, which is good, I guess?

Oh go on then, let’s have a gallery of my new granny jumper!

What do you think? Has it raised more questions, or do you think this recipe will help you make your own crochet granny square sweater?

If you do have questions, please let me know in the comments section and I’l try to edit the post as and when I can.

I always start off thinking crocheting a garment in the “winging it” style will be fun and simple. Making the thing often is! In real terms, however, the writing up of the “recipe?” Goodness me, there are quite a few elements required, and there’ll always be something I’ve missed.

Cheers! x

How to Crochet a Granny Triangle

Categories crochet1 Comment on How to Crochet a Granny Triangle
How to crochet a granny triangle.

Let’s take a look at how to crochet a granny triangle. Below is a very speedy pattern that I’ve recently used for a crochet granny square sweater. You will also find my video tutorial for these granny triangles on YouTube.

When & How to Use a Crochet Granny Triangles.

Granny Triangles are useful for slotting between granny squares, allowing you to create crochet projects on the diagonal. By which I mean, rather than having lots of granny squares in rows, they’re placed in a diamond formation. To square things off, granny triangles fit neatly between the rotated squares.

Granny triangles would be great in crochet bunting, too. Or, make four large triangles and join them together for an interesting twist on a granny square blanket!

Anyway, I have put together a video tutorial, demonstrating how I crochet these cute little granny triangles. I recently used the triangles in a new granny square jumper. The jumper (sweater) is currently drying on blocking mats, and I hope to show it off soon!

Now that my new jumper is finished, I’m thinking of potential new projects. Imagine a colourful granny square blanket edged with triangles! I do not need a new blanket, I do not need a new blanket….

A crochet sweater using granny triangles.

The colourful, harlequin image above (the one with the ribbing being knitted) is this biased/diamond construction. You’ll see the row of triangles just underneath the ribbing. This granny triangle is the pattern used in that crochet jumper.

Things You Need to Crochet a Granny Triangle

This is a quick pattern and blog post today, so I won’t ramble on unnecessarily. I used double knitting yarn (DK) and a 4mm crochet hook. This is a stash buster, so gather your yarn scraps for this kind of project.

Another useful thing you might need? The crochet pattern for the petal centre granny square matching the following granny triangle pattern.

Granny Triangle Crochet Pattern

For ease and brevity, I am just using US terms here; note that a US dc (double crochet) is a UK tr (treble) stitch.
You can substitute the initial chains and sl st with an adjustable ring (magic circle).
When changing colour (every row), a Standing Start is a great alternative to a chain 3. Take a look at the matching granny square video tutorial from 05:12. It’s my fave, but you can keep to chains at the beginning of rows if you prefer.
Note that the dc2tog creates what I refer to as a “petal” in the video tutorial.

To begin, chain 4 (I accidentally ch5 in the vid tutorial, but I forgive myself, it’s OK), join with a sl st to create a ring.
Row 1: Ch4 (counts as 1 dc and 1ch here & throughout), into ring work *dc2tog, 2ch: rep from * 2 more times, dc2tog, ch1, 1dc, fasten off and cut yarn, do not turn. — 4 “petals” plus 1 st at each end.

Row 2: Ch4 [or 1SSt and ch1], 3dc in first 1ch-sp, 3dc in next 2ch-sp, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in centre 2ch-sp, 3dc in next 2ch-sp, (3dc, ch1, 1dc) in last 1ch- sp, do not turn. Fasten off and cut yarn. — 3 granny clusters per side plus 1 st at each end. An increase of 1 granny cluster per side is made for each following row.

Rows 3 & 4: Ch4 [or 1SSt and ch1], 3dc in first 1ch-sp, *3dc in next 2ch-sp; rep from * to centre sp, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in centre 2ch-sp, rep * to last 1ch-sp, (3dc, ch1, 1dc) in last 1ch-sp, do not turn. Fasten off and cut yarn.

Sew in ends. When it comes to joining granny triangles in a fancy new crochet project, they’re easier to manage with sewn-in ends. Trust me when I say it’s a colourful mess of uncontrollable spaghetti if you don’t!

How to crochet a granny triangle YouTube tutorial

And voila, it’s as simple as that! I hope you enjoy making plenty of crochet granny triangles. What sort of pattern will you use them in? A granny square sweater? Blanket? Or perhaps some jolly bunting?

For more free crochet patterns, take a look here. And I have started up a collection of resources for useful crochet tips and tricks, check them out.
Cheers and happy crocheting!! xx

Crochet Pattern Testing

Categories crochet8 Comments on Crochet Pattern Testing
All the Crochet! Why it's important for corchet patern testing

Crochet Pattern Testing Overview

Let’s begin by explaining, briefly, what crochet pattern testing is and then going over it in a bit more detail. Also, I think it would be interesting to explore the subject from both the designer’s and tester’s perspectives, so that’s what I’m going to do! Hopefully, I have insight into both because I have tested a fair few crochet patterns over the years, and I am also a crochet designer.

In a nutshell, crochet pattern testing is checking to see if an unpublished crochet pattern works. A group of testers will follow a draft pattern while they each make the finished item. As they follow along, they make sure the pattern makes sense and produces a finished crochet item as the designer intended. They then provide feedback to the designer about the experience and provide polite, constructive criticism.

Let’s be clear from the start, pattern testing is not the same as technical editing! There should be no obligation to fine-tooth comb anything.

Crochet Pattern Testing Vs Tech Editing

On social media platforms, I often find myself reading discussions about crochet pattern testing. There are many honest opinions that are shared, and some folks seem to think that it should involve grammar checks, number checking (maths, stitch counts), pattern formatting, and more. Actually, this should have already been looked at by a technical editor before any tester gets their hands on an unpublished pattern draft.

Tech editing is a paid service carried out by an experienced, trained editor who is a whizz at number crunching and has a keen eye for detail. The advice they can offer is invaluable, and if you are a crochet designer, you should be using their services for nearly all of your patterns.

With that attention to detail, most errors and formatting styles will have been ironed out. It is not for the pattern tester to do any of this, but the odd thing escapes those eagle eyes, and an edit doesn’t show what a final product will look like when made by different hands.

Sadly, most independent designers don’t have a budget to pay for testing and they rely on the kindness of volunteer crocheters who are happy and willing to help.

Why Do We Need Crochet Pattern Testing?

Making sure crochet patterns are clear, succinct and do what they say they do is super important. We’re all human, and even a super amazing designer with awesome tech editing skills can miss a typo or two. Crochet pattern testing helps with that.

To test is to help out fellow crafters in the yarny community. Tests often have a community focus where there are chat groups for testers to convene, ask questions and share their making experiences. I’ve made many friends by taking part in these group chats. It’s also a great way to gain experience and improve crochet skills.

A good crochet pattern test should be mutually beneficial. A designer gets the chance to find out if their new pattern can be understood by real makers. A tester gets an exclusive glance at the design process. Whether they want to become designers themselves or just have the desire to support the work of a small creative business, it should be a positive experience.

The Dark Side of Crochet Pattern Testing

It would be remiss of me to ignore the negative side of pattern testing for crochet. This is kind of what made me want to write about it in the first place. Various online threads of debate discuss both the good and the bad. Obviously, I want to focus on the good bits, but there is a dark side to this topic too.

Both, testers and designers can be left with a bitter taste from a crappy pattern testing experience. I’ve learned that pattern testers can be greatly exploited and pushed beyond reasonable expectations. For example, there are demands for sharing multiple photos, Reels and Stories on social media to “market” a pattern on behalf of a designer. Whilst yes, it is a boon if this happens, a designer should never push this as an essential because it isn’t why patterns are tested.

I know from my own ventures into running testing groups that testers will join to take a pattern and disappear from the group. For me, the most stressful element about a new pattern is the testing phase. I worry constantly about whether everyone is OK. I had one experience last year that I never wish to repeat, where one by one, testers disappeared until it felt like I was talking to no one. It’s a long story that I can’t tell without name dropping a brand that’s much larger than my one-woman band… However, from that time, I also learned that some folks in the world have hearts of gold.

I’ll go over some of these thoughts in more detail throughout the post as well.

Crochet pattern testing. Good or bad?

Communication is Key!

Unfortunately, as I’ve mentioned, pattern testing can lead to animosity on both sides; the best way to avoid this is to know exactly what to expect.

If in doubt, have the confidence to ask questions. It’s super important that both parties engage regularly and check-in.

As a tester, if you’re struggling, keep in touch to let the designer know there’ll be delays, or if you have to withdraw from the test don’t be afraid to say so. A decent, experienced designer will have factored this into the test and not be reliant on one person. But it is super helpful to let the designer know you can’t complete it, as crochet pattern testing can be an anxious time. It’s not an excuse for rudeness from anyone!

Designers need to be well prepared to update testers regularly. Answer questions promptly and don’t get offended if someone points out that things aren’t clear. This is the point of testing! Listen to what your testers are telling you. If they’re querying what could be an error, check it, don’t dismiss it.

Testing peeps, don’t make assumptions about a pattern, please don’t guess; this is the perfect opportunity to get the designer’s attention. Ask the questions; get clarification.

How Do You Become a Pattern Tester?

There are a few different ways to become a crochet pattern tester. I haven’t tried them all. Each way of finding a testing group will be different. You will find that each designer has a preferred approach.

Instagram – Designers will put out a call for testers by way of a post on the IG grid or on Stories. This is normally how I do it. I create a simple form/questionnaire on Google Drive. Interested crocheters can click on a link to accurately complete the form. This way, I can export all the data into a snazzy spreadsheet; it’s a neat way to keep track of everyone so no one gets missed.

Ravelry Testing Pool – I used this a few years ago with mixed results. There are rules in place, and people are vocal if you don’t follow those rules. That’s OK, there are other similar forums and being respectful is paramount.

Yarn Pond – This is a one-stop shop for pattern testing and testers. Yarnpond has been around a long time, too. I’ve not gone down this path. The website has loads of info, should you be intrigued.

Designers’ List – Many designers (I’m not one of them) keep a list of pattern testers who are keen to be contacted whenever that designer has a new pattern on the horizon. I like this idea very much. However, I feel uncomfortable directly asking individuals if they can take the time to test.

Facebook Groups – Crochet is BIG on Facebook, you are definitely spoilt for choice with all the different pages and posts. Search for testing groups to see if there is one that suits your style.

Requirements for Being a Crochet Tester

Again, for testing crochet patterns, requirements will vary depending on what the designer is looking for with their crochet pattern testers. Let’s break it down.

Crochet Skills Level/Experience

If you have never been a crochet pattern tester before, don’t let your perceived skill level put you off. It is in the designer’s best interest to choose a group of testers who represent all abilities because it’s a truer reflection of those who will want to buy the pattern.

Having said that, perhaps it’s not a good idea to sign up for an advanced and mega complicated sweater test if you have never made a garment before… Be realistic but don’t be put off either. Gen up with these Crochet Tips & Tricks.

Do You Have Time for Crochet Pattern Testing?

Don’t overcommit or overstretch yourself; it’s stressful, and testing should be fun. No one wants you to get anxiety from crochet pattern testing. If you have other commitments, think about the deadline. Is it achievable for you?

Confidence & Willingness to Partake

There are usually some social elements to pattern testing. Not always, but increasingly, tests take place in group chats so that testers can write/talk to one another, share ideas and ask questions about any issues. The designer should be present as much as possible to help answer any queries.

Likewise, there’s an element of independent crocheting as well. If you feel strongly that you can complete a test without needing your hand held throughout, then fabulous.

A Keen Eye & Attention to Detail

Whilst you should not be expected to tech edit during a pattern test, attention to detail is still an essential skill. The odd typo could still be lingering, or perhaps the designer has made a tweak since the tech edit that wasn’t updated correctly. These things happen, and pointing out errors is hugely appreciated. You’re not just helping the designer but all the makers that come after you.

Making Pattern Changes?

If there is something in the pattern you’re not keen on? Ask the designer if it’s OK to change it a little bit. It won’t always be possible, as the designer probably wants to know how the pattern will work up as written. But there will be occasions when it’s not such a big deal. Don’t be afraid to ask.

Providing Constructive Feedback

Being brief with your words at the feedback stage kind of defeats the point of testing. I mean, you don’t have to provide a huge tome of opinions; rather, a few overall thoughts about the pattern, plus measurements and yarn info, would be the bare minimum. If it’s a garment, the designer ideally needs a photo or two of it modelled so they can see if it is what they envisage.

You might be asked about your likes and dislikes about the pattern too. And any changes you made?

Good photography skills

Good photos aren’t just because a designer wants you to push your new FO on social media for pattern sales. Well, it shouldn’t be. Sure, it can be a perk, but good photos are crucial for two reasons.

One, they help other makers see what a garment looks like on all different bodies and show a maker various colour options.

Two, they help the designer see if the pattern looks right across all sizes. It is frustrating knowing someone has tested a pattern, said it’s fine, but the designer doesn’t actually know because they haven’t seen it. As a designer, I have asked for photos and sent reminders, but it’s a tricky one; I’m in no position to make demands for photos to be shared when it’s an unpaid gig.

Crochet designers definitely appreciate good photos shared on Ravelry, too.

Yarn. Crochet Pattern testing. What are your thoughts?

Crochet Pattern Testing Tips for the Designer

By the time it’s at the testing stage, a lot of work has gone into a crochet pattern, sometimes months and months. Unless you can pay testers, that doesn’t really matter to anyone else, I’m afraid. You’re relying on the generosity and grace of your community. So the first tip is don’t take advantage, you do not have the upper hand. Even if you’re gifting free patterns as a form of payment, it doesn’t equate to hours of making, and you know it.

Be Clear With Test Info From the Beginning.

Collate as much info as possible before the test to share with anyone who may be interested. Provide information about sizing, gauge, yarn requirements, the lot. Be clear on yarn weights, does fibre content make a difference, or is it not an issue? Is it a secret test, or can makers share their excitement for their new WIP? When is the deadline?

Don’t forget to tell people which terminology you’re using, as you might sign up US testers who aren’t familiar with UK terms. I tend to add all of this at the top of the initial questionnaire I send out. People then know from the start what to expect.

Provided a Generous Deadline

Back in the old days, during crochet pattern testing, I would only give six weeks to make a whole cardigan! Oh dear, I thought six weeks was generous because I had managed to make a cardi in two weeks. It doesn’t mean everyone else can; people have other stuff going on in their lives. Larger sizes take more time, too. I had to learn to plan better.

A full garment with sleeves should probably be a minimum of ten weeks, ideally 12. Anticipate when that will be and plan your pattern launch around it. Think about when it’s seasonally appropriate so you’re not finishing a test for a woolly turtle neck jumper in the middle of summer.

Send a Finished Pattern

I have tested patterns that are supposed to have charts, and the chart isn’t ready. I have tested patterns, and the photos haven’t yet been added. Eek, it’s difficult, but if those things aren’t ready, your pattern isn’t ready to test. It isn’t fair to the maker if you’re not including everything.

Ensure the pattern is as close to how it’s supposed to look on publication. That’s only fair. And if it can’t be, please be clear and make sure folks are good with that.

Whilst we’re on the subject, I’m not a fan of sending a pattern section by section. Not only is it micromanaging more work for me, it also suggests there’s no trust involved. I don’t like that.

Be Open-Minded to Tester Feedback

It’s not always easy, but you need a thick skin to hear other people’s thoughts. I have been very lucky with my testing groups so far, and don’t recall any moment when I’ve felt hurt by any comments. Look at the bigger picture; feedback that is honest and constructive is invaluable, even if it’s worded bluntly. You will produce a better pattern if you listen to that feedback.

Do Not Charge Testers!!

This shouldn’t even be a discussion. Who are you to charge testers who can’t complete on time? I have seen discussions about charging for non-completion of a crochet pattern test. I don’t think this is fair. Luckily, I have never spoken to anyone who has experienced this, so maybe it’s a myth. Bet it isn’t, though.

And whilst we’re on the topic of ridiculous asks, an NDA for a pattern test? It’s a bit far-fetched, don’t you think?

Let The Ghosters Go

It’s not worth getting upset about the folks who ghost a pattern test. Oh, it stings for sure. I’ve been there many times, and as a result, I am learning to get over it. Just ensure you have chosen a couple more testers than you need. Ghosters aren’t your customers, so let it go.

Do You Need Testers Anymore?

This is an interesting one. With your tech-edited crochet pattern, does it even need to be tested!? There are some for and against arguments with this one. I still get anxious about my patterns and feel a lot more reassured when the more complex ones have been made by a lovely group of volunteers who have kindly given their time to crochet pattern testing.

However, the more experienced a designer becomes, the less of a need there is for testing. Apprehension has been nudged out of the way by acquired knowledge.

Crochet Pattern Testing: Final Thoughts

Hopefully, I have covered most elements of pattern testing for crochet. It’s quite a big topic when looking at it from both perspectives. But it is very important to explore this subject from the two angles because there is a lot of involvement from testers as well as designers

Ultimately, one of the key messages to take away from this is to remember that we’re all people doing what we love. Kindness comes from both directions in crochet pattern testing, and it makes me sad when I see folks on the internet arguing about it!

Whether you’re a tester or a designer, tell me about your crochet pattern testing experiences. Have I missed something crucial? Do you approach it from a different angle? Let me know in the comments.

Cheers. x

Crochet Hair Scrunchie Pattern

Categories crochet4 Comments on Crochet Hair Scrunchie Pattern
Two crochet hair scrunchies made using scrap yarn

Well, who knew that making a crochet hair scrunchie would turn into making two, three, four, five…?! These little stash busters are totally addictive! In truth, I’ve been making several scrunchies, adapting stitch counts as I go, to ensure the pattern has the perfect amount of ruffles. But even though this easy-peasy pattern has been perfected, it hasn’t stopped me from wanting more!

For speedy satisfaction, quick-fix crochet pattern ideas like these crochet hair bands are ideal when you don’t want to commit to a larger project. The free crochet pattern is below, eeek, I hope you like it!

If you’d like to know how to crochet around a hair tie, this is an easy project that you’ll enjoy making over and over again. I don’t need more, but I just can’t help imagining all the different colour combinations to try and all the different types of yarn that would look fabulous thrown together.

Stash Busting Hair Scrunchie: A Great Way to Use Yarn Scraps

The first iteration of the crochet hair scrunchie came about as I had leftovers from my Cirrus shawl. The crescent shawl uses two skeins of yarn: one lace-weight mohair and the other, a scrumptious DK boucle. There wasn’t much left of either as this shawl uses nearly all of both skeins. However, there were two walnut-sized balls leftover and therefore, ideal for a small crochet design. This version of the scrunchie doesn’t have as many stitches as the final pattern, so there weren’t enough ruffles for my liking. More ruffles, please!

Anyway, what can you do with little nuggets of yarn balls? All of those leftover yarn scraps? Tadah, crochet a ruffled hair scrunchie, of course!

No matter how many yarn scraps you have, you can throw them all into a design like this. The beauty of it is, is that you don’t need very much yarn at all. My heaviest crochet hair scrunchie uses just 15 grams of fingering-weight yarn. That’s only 60 metres!

Crochet around a hair tie.
crochet hair scrunchie
The cirrus shawl uses mohair lace weight yarn and a DK boucles. The leftvoers were turned into a crochet hair scrunchie

What’s The Best Yarn For a Crochet Hair Scrunchie?

This design uses a lighter weight of yarn. It allows for more stitches and more ruffles without the bulk. You could change it up to a sport weight, perhaps even a double knit, but I think you’d have to reduce the number of stitches worked around the hair tie on the first round. This is possible to do, and it’s worth a try. However, do bear in mind that it could change the look of the scrunchie.

So, I recommend a fingering /sock weight yarn or 4ply, and when you’re feeling fancy, a lace weight mohair! You’ll need approximately 15 grams, which is 60 metres (66 yards) give or take.

If in doubt, take a look at my post all about Yarn Substitution.

Colourful crochet hair scrunchie, a free crochet pattern from Zeens and Roger

Magic Knot Yarn Ball

For the most colourful crochet hair scrunchie, all of my smallest yarn scraps were gathered together. Anything from a couple of metres up to around 10 metres, these leftovers from other projects were all knotted together in a magic ball.

This technique is hard to describe in writing, however, I do have a video tutorial that demonstrates how to make a magic knot ball of yarn. It’s for another freebie pattern, but it’s the same knot tying that I used here. Watch from 1:08

I might also put together a quick Reel on Instagram to show you the steps on making a magic knot ball. I haven’t done it yet, wish me luck!

You don’t have to get yourself tied up in knots, though. I have made crochet hair scrunchies by only changing colour after a round or two. There is also nothing stopping you from making them all in one colour. Make them in all the colourful variations!

Mohair crochet hair scrunchie

Using Mohair in Your Crochet Hair Scrunchie

Not everyone loves mohair yarn, but I do! I LOVE its fluffy warmth and delicate halo. I have amassed quite a lot of leftover mohair in my yarn stash, and it works perfectly for this crochet pattern. Actually, it’s not a bad introduction to using mohair yarn because it’s such a small project.

There are a couple of tips that make the experience even easier though. For the first round, where you crochet around the hair tie, use a non-fluffy fingering, sock or sport weight yarn. It’s not fiddly, whereas I think mohair would be for that round.

To make it even less fiddly, I don’t even bother working into the top of the mohair stitches but work in between them. That way, I can just shove the hook in between, and not so much precision is required. Have I ever mentioned that I am a supremely lazy crocheter?! Cutting corners can work sometimes… I didn’t do this for the fingering yarn hair tie though. You could if you wanted to.

free crochet pattern for a scrunchie hair tie
crochet hair scrunchie
crochet hair scrunchie pattern

Crochet Hair Scrunchie Pattern

Things You Need to Crochet a Hair Scrunchie

Please note that both US & UK patterns are below, make sure to choose the right one.
You’ll need a 4mm crochet hook and some yarn scraps from your stash. Go for fingering /sock weight yarn or 4ply, or if you’re in the mood, a lace weight mohair. You’ll need approximately 15 grams, which is 60 metres (66 yards). For the mohair, I only used 11 grams.

And you’ll need a normal, everyday elastic hair tie. I have long hair, so loads are kicking about the house. I used them for this, but I do need to buy some more. You can get ones with bamboo in them, which is great.

Plan on changing colour? I usually just introduce the new colour on the last “yarn over” of the last stitch of a round. Then the new colour is then ready to go. Or use another favourite method of your choice.

Scrunchie Pattern US Terms

This pattern is written in US terms – scroll a bit further for the UK version.
Rnd 1: 60sc around a hair tie, join with a sl st, do not turn. [60 sts]
Rnd 2: Ch3 (counts as a stitch here & throughout), 1dc in same st, 2dc in each st around, join to the first st with a sl st, do not turn. [120 sts]
Rnd 3: As Round 2. (240 sts)
Rnd 4: Ch3, 1dc in same st, 1dc in next st, *2dc in next st, 1dc in next; rep from * around, join with a sl st, do not turn. [360 sts]

You can fasten off here or change to a contrasting colour or contrasting texture of yarn, perhaps a thicker mohair or boucle yarn.

Rnd 5: Ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch), sc in first st, ch1, miss a st, *sc in next st, ch1, miss a st; rep from * around, join to first st with a sl st. Fasten off and sew in ends
(On my next scrunchie, I plan on adding 2 chains between each single crochet to see what that looks like. I think it’ll create a really nice finish.)

Scrunchie Pattern UK Terms

This pattern is written in UK terms – scroll up for the US version.
Rnd 1: 60dc around a hair tie, join with a sl st, do not turn. [60 sts]
Rnd 2: Ch3 (counts as a stitch here & throughout), 1tr in same st, 2tr in each st around, join to the first st with a sl st, do not turn. [120 sts]
Rnd 3: As Round 2. (240 sts)
Rnd 4: Ch3, 1tr in same st, 1tr in next st, *2tr in next st, 1tr in next; rep from * around, join with a sl st. [360 sts]

You can fasten off here or change to a contrasting colour or contrasting texture yarn, perhaps a thicker mohair or boucle yarn.

Rnd 5: Ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch), dc in first st, ch1, miss a st, *dc in next st, ch1, miss a st; rep from * around, join to first st with a sl st. Fasten off and sew in ends.
(On my next scrunchie, I plan on adding 2 chains between each double crochet to see what that looks like. I think it’ll create a really nice finish.)

Isn’t that a great pattern for crocheting from stash?! I ruddy love a crochet pattern that uses up scrap yarn!

If you make your crochet hair scrunchie, please let me know. You could add them to your project page on Ravelry too, that way I get to see what you’ve made!

For more Free Crochet Patterns, go here. And don’t forget to check out my crochet tips & tricks, here

Cheers. x

I Made a Granny Square Lampshade!

Categories crochet2 Comments on I Made a Granny Square Lampshade!
Screenprinting a granny square lampshade

Screenprinting Crochet Motifs

I love everything to do with crochet, and I mean everything! So why not make my own granny square lampshade?!

A few weeks ago, I went to Double Elephant, a printing workshop in Exeter, to attend a fabulous screenprinting day. I knew as soon as I signed up and handed over my money, that my printed lampshade was going to feature crochet granny squares. No surprise there….

And because I know there are loads of other crochet obsessed folks around the old internet, I thought I would share my day and show a few pictures of what was involved.

Yes, I made a granny square lampshade, but really, I think anything goes when it comes to screenprinting. If you can draw it, it can probably be printed onto fabric, too.

I deliberated about other kinds of crochet motifs that I could design for printing, like maybe I could draw lots of different kinds of crochet hooks and have them all lined up like dutiful soldiers. And I considered chart symbols too. But ultimately, nothing says “crochet” more than a gorgeous granny square, right?!

Designing a Granny Square Motif

The screenprinting workshop covered one full day, and the schedule was jam packed. There was only a finite amount of design prep, so there wasn’t much time to dillydally over details. I am glad I already knew that I was sticking to the classic crochet square, as it meant a decent head start. There were a few initial sketches for different aesthetic choices, but ultimately, it was a rush job as each “stitch” was hand-drawn.

I drew a quarter square template and would rotate it every few seconds to quickly scribble all four quadrants. That was done six times over, and there were definitely some “Eeek” moments when things didn’t quite align. Much like real-life crochet, I fudged it a couple of times and everything worked out fine.

Screenprinting Fun

I confess that I didn’t pay much attention to the science of screen printing. To me, the end result was the important thing. It’s always interesting to try new arts and crafts, but I wasn’t here to be wooed; I knew I was still loyal to crochet (TLA!).

But wow, it is pretty hardcore. There are many steps to create a perfect copy of that first hand-drawn design. There’s an intense vacuum machine for one thing! And special UV paint, which I smeared onto my screen and then blasted off with a jet washer, once it had been exposed to light. I had no idea that the workshop would entail such a detailed process. Fascinating stuff.

mixing paint to print my granny square lampshade
mixing colours for screenprinting, ready for my granny square lampshade
Screenprinting for a granny square lampshade.

One Step Closer to a Granny Square Lampshade

With my silk screen ready and the granny squares waiting, I mixed up a rich royal blue ink that I was going to print onto an ecru linen fabric. This was my favourite moment, but sadly, much like other good things in life, it was over far too quickly. I loved squeegying on the paint, it was very satisfying indeed!

Twice, you go over the silk screen with the thick ink and then carefully peel it away from the fabric. There were four of us in the workshop (the maximum number of attendees), and it was pretty funny to see us all standing there, hair-drying out prints (to work the second panel, the first must be dry).

granny square motifs printed onto fabric. This will be turned into a lampshade.
Granny square lampshade fabric ready for action.

Turning Fabric into a Lampshade

It is actually quite tricky to make a lampshade. I had no idea! It’s a fiddly business, and it took everyone’s full concentration.

Firstly, there’s the sticking down of the beautiful, newly printed fabric. It needs to be done slowly and with caution, placing it onto a sturdy, sticky rectangle of plastic. It must not be wonky! It’s fair to say I messed up a little bit and had to redo mine. Luckily, the fabric wasn’t harmed. Phew!

Then, two metal hoops need to be independently balanced onto two thin strips of adhesive that ran down each length of the plastic. Again, this had to be done accurately or you’d have a lopsided lampshade. Don’t forget all of this was done by hand – I had patiently attached the sticky strips of glue, it wasn’t pre-prepared…

At this point, you could have heard a pin drop. And funnily enough, there were pins involved (to keep everything in place). But I know that no one dropped any pins; I’d have heard them.

Lastly, the two raw edges were pushed into place around the thin hoops. This actually took quite a lot of oomph. It was a tough job. However, the end result created a sleek finish to my new lampshade, and it was very much worth the time and effort. Yay!

I am literally so happy with my granny square lampshade!! It’s just what I wanted, and it looks amazing in my living room too!

My crochet inspired granny square lampshade in its new home.

Screen Printing Lampshades

Like I said before, if you can draw it, it’s almost guaranteed that it can be printed. One of the wonderful things about the workshop is that you get to see everyone’s different ideas. The other women I spent the day with all made beautiful lampshades; we would collectively gasp in delight when each other’s designs were revealed in ink.

I really enjoyed the workshop and would love to be able to print swathes and swathes of crochet-inspired fabrics. Alas, it’s something I probably won’t get around to doing, but it’s a nice thought.

Have you tried screen printing before? What do you reckon? Am I getting a bit too obsessed with crochet? It’s the tip of the iceberg, you know. If you can think it, I’m pretty sure you can crochet it….

Blocking Crochet: An Overview

Categories crochet, crochet resources9 Comments on Blocking Crochet: An Overview
What is blocking crochet? Hoe to block crochet

What Does Blocking Crochet Mean?

This blog post is an overview of what blocking crochet means. It’ll be a quick guide to cover all the basics without, fingers crossed, being too hardcore about it. However, there are a couple of things included that are slightly more than “basic”. Forgive me, I couldn’t bring myself to leave out any of the info.

I also need to get through this whole post without writing “Blcoking”. Wish me luck.

Whilst I am not normally a stickler for the rules, I do believe that blocking is essential if you want your crochet to look its very best. You have gone to so much trouble to hook up hundreds of stitches, why not put in one last burst of energy to make your truly crochet shine! I feel that it’s a necessary evil. Blocking crochet makes your work stand out and look even more fantastic than it already is.

If you don’t want to read about this riveting subject, check out my video about blocking crochet. It covers very similar ground, plus it has some comparisons and demonstrations.

If you are relatively new to crochet, you could also read my overview about all the other things you need to learn how to crochet. Hopefully, you find that blog post useful. Aaaand, check out some more crochet tips and tricks here!

For the most part, I block all my crochet garments, as well as shawls, scarves, and cowls. I’ve also even been known to block a crochet hat — with a balloon!

First of all, the big question is: What is blocking? If you hear people talking about blocking crochet, what does that mean?

Pin out for blocking crochet

Blocking Your Crochet: An Overview

Blocking is about making the best of your crochet by using moisture, and sometimes heat, to set your stitches. It changes the fabric you have created into a new form.

When you block your new crochet project, it opens up and sets stitches into their final “look”. Depending on the yarn you’ve used, you can wash/soak, rinse and blot your crochet before pinning it out to dry. Or pin it out first, then steam or spray crochet fabric with water and leave it to dry. That’s all blocking is. You can pin crochet fabric out to particular measurements, but often, you can wing it.

Once a crochet item has been blocked, the fabric size and drape can be different to what your crochet looked and felt like before you dunked it in soapy water. Stitches can bloom open, and yarn softens beautifully. Blocking crochet creates a beautiful drape, and if you’re making a crochet garment, it will make sure that it fits how the design was intended.

Or, if you carelessly steam-block with an iron, you could melt your precious crochet. Please be careful!

blocking crochet
drying flat to block crochet
Sleevless Crochet Tank Top: Ducky Fuzz, find the pattern on Ravelry and Etsy

What Tools Do You Need For Blocking Crochet?

You do not need ALL the gear. To begin, you can make do with just some basics. When I first started blocking my crochet projects, I used dressmaker’s pins and pinned my finished objects (FO) directly onto the carpet. If the carpet was lucky, I’d put a towel down first. These tools worked, but they were not ideal in the long term. I have since collected a few more items that make blocking crochet a lot easier. (Also, it isn’t advisable to use dressmaker’s pins, or pin directly onto carpet!)

When I realised that taking the extra steps to block my crochet items was worth it, I invested in what I think are the absolute basics: a handful of foam blocking mats and some proper blocking pins (ones that weren’t going to rust and ruin my precious crochet). You may also benefit from having a heavy dose of patience in your arsenal.

Blocking Mats

Blocking mats are usually square foam mats/boards that interlock to give you a suitably sized surface area. They provide a sturdy and protective surface onto which you pin out your crochet and knitting projects.

Buy them from the hardware store or supermarket. I know that some folks use children’s foam play mats effectively, and there are mats specifically designed for the job of blocking. Or, I’ve used a yoga mat quite effectively in the past, however, it is not as structured as a foam mat.

Blocking pins for crochet fabric

Blocking Pins

You can buy boxes of blocking specific pins. Choose ones that are designed for the job you need them for, like T-pins. Other pins will be too weak and possibly prone to rusting. You’ll likely be using moisture for blocking, so you need strong stainless steel pins.

Then, if you’re short on time or just lazy, knit blockers are a Godsend! They are little sets of sharp pins, held in plastic, that sit neatly together in a row. They make blocking crochet a bit more bearable if you ask me.

I have two boxes of the knit blockers and thinking that a third set might be wise. Two boxes can efficiently block one garment when it’s in pieces. I often block a couple of things at the same time, so need/want more.

If I don’t make it clear in my Blocking Crochet video on YouTube, place the pins at a slant, angling them outwards. This holds the tension better.

Blocking Boards

Blocking boards are great for granny squares. They are solid boards with holes so you can place little evenly spaced dowels to hold the tension of crochet squares and set them into shape.

Whilst I have a few different sized blocking boards like this, I confess that I don’t ever use them. I lost the dowels, which doesn’t help!

A mini blocking board for granny squares

Blocking Wires

Blocking wires can be pricey, especially if you’re not going to use them frequently. They are my best friend when I block crescent shawls as they curve with the crochet.

These fine, bendable yet strong wires always ping back to their original form. They are another time saver as they negate the use of quite so many pins. They hold tension evenly along long stretches of fabric, and you only need to place the pins intermittently to hold the wires.

However, with some chunkier crochet projects, you can affect the fabric at the blocking stage because you’re blocking the blocking itself, if that makes sense!? In other words, thicker yarns can be pushed out of shape if you thread the wires in and out of the edges. It can create and little wavey ripple along the edge, and you don’t want that.

Therefore, you kind of have to pick and choose what tools you use for the type of crochet project that you’re blocking. Take a look at the YouTube video about Blocking Crochet (around the 48 minute mark). You’ll see a cowl with a scallop edge. Take note of the edge with the wire versus the pinned edge. Do you see what I mean about the wibble edge?

Before I bought the wires, I used to use knitting needles! Got away with them for the lace weight & sock weight shawl (below) but not the best tools for the job!

What tools do you need for blocking crochet?
The Mya Shawl by Helda Panagary – blocked with Nanna’s old knitting needles!

A Steamer

You don’t need a steamer if you have an iron with a steam function, but I found myself steaming things more than ironing. I no longer know where my iron is since I purchased my steamer. They are a better tool for the job of blocking if you can justify having one.

When you have pinned out your crochet to the measurements you want, the steamer is waved across the fabric, just above it (you don’t want to get too close as there’s a risk of overdoing it).

Once you have gone over the surface areas of the crochet, leave it to dry, and then it’ll be ready.

A Mister for Spray Blocking

I have a spray bottle that is a real work horse, used in cutting the boys’ hair, misting plants and mostly, spray blocking my crochet! This is the “laziest” of the three main methods. More on this in a sec…

A Pool Noodle!?

Oh, I have a pool noodle cut in half for when I block things where a crease would upset me!! Take a look at the bobble cowl pic (below) from my Mix & Match crochet cowl pattern. I don’t whip these out very often, but you can see why they might be useful for some crochet pieces! If they roll towards each other, pop in a few pins in appropriate places to stop them.

Hap Frames for Blocking

Blocking frames are predominantly used by knitters who make hap shawls. I made a crochet hap shawl called the Barton Hap, which featured in John Arbon Textiles Annual 3. My father-in-law very kindly made me a blocking frame so that I could block the two hap shawls I made. They were huge and, without the frame, they would have been really tricky to block. Storing the drying shawls in an upright position was so much better than having them spread across a floor space.

I still employed the wires, too, as there weren’t enough dowels for all the crochet peaks around the edge of the shawl. The crochet shawl needed to be taut, like a drum, so I evenly pulled (somewhat aggressively) and secured the fabric in place. I watched a few YouTube videos to learn how to do this.

Blocking a crochet hap shawl in a frame
A hap frame to block square shawls

Methods to Block Crochet

There are three main ways to block crochet. The method I choose largely depends on what fibre I have been working with. Whichever method you choose, it is advisable to work up a swatch in the yarn you’ve used in your crochet project and block that in your chosen method. How does the swatch react? Because that’s likely to be how your FO (finished object) is going to act.

The chances are that you have to make a swatch anyway, as you will want to measure your gauge accurately. Blocking your tension square in the same way you intend to block final crochet items will give you the information you need. If you’re following a pattern, the gauge info and final measurements will be included, and these give makers an idea of how something should be blocked.

Also, don’t forget to check the yarn label for care instructions before embarking on any kind of blocking.

Cat and crochet blocking
Blocking mercerised cotton pieces for a fitted crochet top

TLDR Crochet Blocking Methods

In just a moment, I’ll go over each method in more detail, but generally, the three main ways of blocking crochet are:

  • WET BLOCKING. This is great for natural fibres (wools and cottons alike). It doesn’t work for acrylic as the material ignores the moisture and stretching, and will ping back to its original state. You need to be careful during the process of wet blocking as this feels like the stage when your precious stitches are at their most vulnerable. The fabric stretch will be really evident, so be gentle. The results are usually fantastic.
  • STEAM BLOCKING. This uses heat as well as stretch to fix crochet fabric. You don’t need to pre-wash, just pin out onto blocking mats to the shape and measurements you need. Use a steamer for the moisture to penetrate the fibres. The mix of heat and moisture will help set the stitches. Be careful with this one; it’s great for acrylic blends, but the heat manipulates acrylic fibres so you could melt or “kill” the fabric.
  • SPRAY BLOCKING. You have pinned out your crochet already. Next, use a mister (spray bottle) to spritz water over the fabric and leave it to dry. This is another method for natural fibres and won’t work for acrylic yarn. The more gentle nature of spray blocking means it’s a good method for first timers.

Pinning Out Your Crochet

Regardless of the blocking method, 99.9% of the time, you will pin out your crochet. Once you have started pinning out, you may need to adjust and play around with the placement. That’s OK. It happens all the time. Start somewhere in the middle rather than a far end/corner. You can then work outwards towards the ends/corners, which tends to help balance everything better. If you find yourself fannying about too much, step away and then reevaluate.

Use plenty of pins, and/or the sets of blockers. If you use too few pins, then dips between each pointy fixture might get set into the final piece.

That action of pinning out means the crochet fabric will have stretched out a little bit.

blocking crochet swatches

Aggressive Blocking?

There are different levels of stretch and pull when pinning out crochet fabric. As with the Barton Hap shawl, which was aggressively blocked on the frame, some crochet stitches and yarn combos look best when they are pulled and stretched into shape. Lace work looks and feels delicate and dainty, but I have often found that these types of crochet fabrics are the ones that need a good seeing to.

That tension creates the drape that is required in a shawl. It might not be so good for a garment as it could end up looking saggy when it isn’t supposed to fit that way. In my experience, you shouldn’t be quite so forceful with garment pieces. A little bit of tension is fine to set those pieces.

If in any doubt about the level of force required in pulling out the fabric, go easy first. It’s less heartbreaking to block a second time, using a bit more welly, than it is to overdo it on the first go. However, I am probably fearmongering here, I don’t think I’ve ever messed up by overstretching.

Wet Blocking

I always follow the same process to wet block my crochet pieces: The bathroom basin is filled with warm water and a small splash of wool wash soap. The crochet is either left to its own devices, or I help it along by pressing it down into the water. Then it’s a case of leaving it to soak for a bit.

Some say that you should leave it for 20-30 minutes to really allow the water to get into the fibres. I say, once it’s wet, it’s wet. And so I only leave it for a few minutes. I might walk off and do something else for quarter of an hour, by which time it should be ready for a rinse.

Fill the sink with clean water and submerge again. Then say goodbye to the wet stuff and gently squeeze your crochet of all the excess water. Do not twist or wring the fabric. Instead, it helps to blot your crochet fabric in a towel. Just roll it up into a sausage and dolly step along the rolled up towel.

Then it’s time to pin everything out onto blocking mats.

I have found that many wet blocked garments can be blocked by their own weight and I don’t necessarily need to use pins. A garment can be laid out flat onto the mats (with or without a towel on top of the mats – it dries quicker with one) and the whole process of washing is enough for the jumper (or whatever) to relax into its new state. However, there are times when the fabric needs a little help.

Wet Blocking Crochet, an Example

Pre-blocking, I was a little worried about the fit of my Little Fluffy Clouds cardigan (pictured below) as the puff stitches were a little tight and the sleeves were a teensy bit too short. Pins were needed to ensure the fabric was stretched more. I needed to be a fractionally more aggressive on this occasion.

Shawls always need pins, they’re not weighty enough to do the job on their own. Stretching and pinning out creates a tidier shape, superior drape and opens up lacey stitches.

Blocking crochet.
pre blocking – bit tight. sleeves slightly too short
blocking crochet
post blocking – relaxed and sleeves fit

Steam Blocking

I steam block crochet that uses acrylic blends (eg, acrylic mixed with wool). Steam works best for the blended yarns, as it treats all the fibres with heat. I’ve used it for cotton too and that’s worked very nicely.

As previously mentioned, there is no need to pre-wash an FO before pinning out if you’re going to steam block.

Steam blocking is often recommended for acrylic fibres, but I will be completely honest here. Whenever I have made crochet clothes with 100% acrylic fibre, I haven’t bothered blocking at all! After a few visits to the washing machine, an acrylic sweater kind of blocks itself. Plus, it prevents the risk of melting with too much heat, which doesn’t happen unless you’re overzealous with the steam.

Hold the steamer an inch or two above your crochet so it doesn’t get the full intensity of heat. Then leave to dry.

Spray/Spritz Blocking

Spray blocking is for light shawls and things that don’t need too much work. Pin out and spritz with water. It doesn’t take very long, and once a project has had a thorough spray of wet stuff, I can walk away and forget about it.

For steaming and spraying, do so away from electrical appliances and plug sockets. And anything else you don’t want to get wet.

Bonus Blocking Methods

If you have a newly made sweater and it’s 100% acrylic, steam will be the most effective. However, I don’t like the threat of my hard crochet work being “killed”, so you could try this easy-peasy method instead. The gentle, low heat of a tumble dryer, after you’ve washed your garment, can be enough to relax the fibres a little bit. Note! I don’t advise this for natural fibres.

Does hanging crochet blankets from the washing line count? I haven’t done this as I’m worried of an uneven finish. The weight seems to pull from each peg and could distort blankets, so I’ve avoided this method. I rarely block blankets tbh. Over time, general use seems to relax them into shape, and I seriously cannot be bothered to block a giant blanket. Eh!

Crochet blocking demonstration
Disco Stitches Sampler scarf. One for steam blocking (acrylic blend, left) and one wet blocked (merino, right)

Do You Need to Block Every Time You Wash Crochet?

The YouTube video about blocking crochet has been up for a couple of weeks, and the other day, I received a very good question: Do you have to block crochet after each wash? The answer is, you can if you want! Occasionally, a crochet project might shrink back a little, or the stitches become a little bit less pronounced. I have repinned and reblocked shawls in the past (if I’ve felt they needed a bit of attention).

However, if it’s for a hand-made garment, you probably don’t need to. It depends on how you can wash it. If you’re washing a crochet sweater made of non-superwash wool, you’ll likely need to hand wash and then dry flat. No pins necessary.

Look at your crochet item, is it a bit lifeless? Would reblocking make it snazzy again? If yes, sure, reblock. It’s up to you.

Which is Your Favourite Method of Blocking Crochet?

Ooh! What a lot of information to take in, especially if you have no previous experience of blocking! I hope it wasn’t too much? Despite it being an overview, there is a lot to cover in blocking crochet! Hopefully, I have covered all the elements. If it raises any questions, please do let me know.

Do you think you’re more likely to try blocking now? Does one method seem easier than another? Which is your favourite? Do you have any other tips for blocking crochet?

Whatever your views are on the subject, I do think it is 100% worth the effort. It doesn’t have to be a scary or time-consuming thing. An extra day or two of drying time to have even better crochet? Yes please!

And I finish this blog post with a cry of despair: How many times must I write that word??! I have mispelled “blcoking” entirely throughout this post, and to make matters worse, my auto correct was on the fritz – sad times.

Simple Crochet Bobble Border

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Crochet Bobble Border tutorial

Crochet Bobble Edging Pattern

There is no simpler edging for a granny square blanket than this crochet bobble border. It is super easy to do and very quick to crochet. You can use this simple crochet edging in lots of different ways, too. In addition to blankets, it works well for crochet accessories too (I’ve used it for shawl edgings, for example).

Below, you will find the written pattern for the crochet bobble border and you should also visit my YouTube channel for the bobble edging video tutorial.

Crochet Bobble border

Granny Square Blanket

For a while, I have been building up to writing up the crochet pattern for my granny square blanket (with its easy bobble border!). It is still not 100% complete. Over the last year or so, I have put together all the video tutorials and separate blog posts that, collectively, will be the resources you need to make your own version of the colourful crochet blanket.

granny square blanket

It has actually been much longer than a year in the making. The picture above was taken many years ago. It’s a granny square blanket that I made for one of my sisters. I remember buying the yarn from a beautiful little yarn shop on the Isle of Wight. My eldest son was two years old at the time. He is about to turn sixteen, which tells you how long ago the idea was born!

Granny square blanket with crochet bobble border

I’ve tweaked the pattern a little bit since then; the granny squares are slightly different and I’ve played around with the colour combinations. Fundamentally though, it’s still the same crochet blanket.

Video Resources for a Crochet Blanket

There are a couple of final jobs before the blanket pattern is fully complete. I haven’t yet calculated yarn amounts needed and I need to remember all the colours I used. Listing yarn brands isn’t difficult but it does require some time to sit down at the computer. Especially as it would be nice to collate everything into a PDF too. It takes longer than you might expect!

Before I get to that final stage, here is what is available so far….

A fun place to start is my crochet podcast. In episode 104 I blithely chat about the blanket enough for you to get an idea of what it’s all about.

Then, for the “how to” vids, here is a video tutorial for the cute little granny squares. You’ll see what else I have used them for (aren’t granny squares versatile?!). I also demonstrate a Join As You Go Technique in the video tutorial for these squares, which is a great alternative for joining granny squares but I chose to join the blanket squares using the mattress stitch (see below).

To accompany the smallies, we have the large granny square with a circle centre. The video shows you how to change colour if you want new colours every round. It then continues to show you how to work the granny squares if you’d rather not change colour. Theses are useful techniques to have in your crochet repetoire.

Use the Mattress Stitch to join your granny squares. It creates such a professional finish. I know JAYG is awesome and speedy but I promise that the mattress stitch is worth the effort.

Granny square blanket. Joining with mattress stitch

Crochet Bobble Edge Video Tutorial

The latest video tutorial to join the granny blanket resources is my new crochet bobble border video. It’s such a simple crochet border and it’s really fun to work up. It must be fun as I regularly choose to add this to blankets and crochet accessories.

For example, check out the bobble border on my Cirrus shawl too. It looks utterly fab in boucle yarn!

Anyway, if you’re a fan of a written crochet pattern, and/or want to use it as well as the video on my YouTube channel, read on…..

A crochet bobble border on the Cirrus shawl.

Written Pattern for a Crochet Bobble Border

Bobble Border Notes Etc

  • The crochet bobble border uses a stitch multiple of 4.
  • Use whatever yarn and hook size you like to create your crochet bobble border. I used DK yarn with a 4mm hook.
  • You can work this into a round of US double crochet stitches, hdc or sc stitches, it’ll look great worked into any of them.
  • Work the crochet bobble border on the wrong side of your crochet project.
  • For my granny blanket, this final round is worked into a round of US dc stitches (UK tr stitches).

Also note, life is too short for accuracy with this border. When it comes to adding it to a large crochet blanket, I refuse to count all of those stitches to check if I have the correct amount of multiples. Just fudge it! You won’t get sent to crochet prison.

Before you begin, here is how to work a Bobble Stitch:
[yrh, insert hook into st, yrh, pull through, yrh, pull through 2 loops] five times in same st, yrh, pull through all 6 loops.

Crochet Pattern Abbreviations (US Terms)

ch: chain, dc: double crochet, dc2tog: double crochet 2 together, sl st: slip stitch, sp: space, yrh: yarn round hook,

TLDR Version -Universal Crochet Terms (Works for both US & UK!)

Round 1: Working on the wrong side, join yarn to any stitch, *3 sl st, 1 bobble; rep from * around, join with a sl st to the first st. Cut yarn and fasten off. Done

Do you want the longer version for this granny blanket? Oh go on then…

Full Granny Blanket Border

This is for when you have finished joining all your granny squares together, making one big crochet blanket, and you’re ready to add a full border. I mentioned in the video tutorial that you can add as many rounds of granny clusters as your yarn stash will allow.

Note that I have written “ch3” to start the rounds. However, should you wish to use an alternative technique that looks waaay better, take a look at this video on alternative ways to chain 3. I demonstrate both in the edging tutorial. Or, rewatch the large granny tutorial so that you can see the alternative ways in more context. This latter video helps with how to change colour for crochet rounds too.

Where two granny squares meet, we add a little twist to the standard granny cluster. This is to ensure the blanket edges remain nice and straight. You don’t want to create too much fabric by adding extra clusters or you’ll end up with a kinky granny.

Take a look at the picture above, it shows two corners of granny squares sitting side by side (blue & orange). Rather than each of them having its own cluster in their respective corners, we work one makeshift cluster across them both. (in US terms) you work 1dc in the first corner, then dc2tog (a decrease) across both corners, ending with 1dc in the second corner = (1dc, dc2tog, 1dc).

Granny Bobble Border Pattern

Round 1 (US terms): Join yarn to any space between granny clusters, ch3, 2dc in same space, *3dc in next space between clusters; rep from * to next two granny square corners, 1dc in first granny corner, dc2tog across the first and 2nd granny corners, 1dc in 2nd granny corner, continue in pattern to corner, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in 2ch-sp, continue in pattern around, join with a sl st to the top of the first st, do not turn.

Rnds 2 – whatever number you like: Ch3, 2dc in same space, *3dc in next space between clusters; rep from * to corner, (3dc, 2ch, 3dc) in corner, rep from * to next corner and continue in pattern around, join with a sl st to the top of the first st, do not turn.

Next Rnd: Ch3, dc to first corner, 5dc in corner 2ch-sp, continue in pattern around, join with sl st to first st, turn.

Last Round (Bobble edging worked on wrong side): *3sl st, 1 bobble st; rep from * around, join with sl st to first st, fasten off & cut yarn.

Crochet bobble edging on a granny square blanket

If you have enjoyed this free crochet pattern, please take a look around my blog for some excellent crochet tips & tricks, which I really enjoy putting together, plus find more free crochet patterns here.

Cheers! x