Crochet Hair Scrunchie Pattern

Two crochet hair scrunchies made using scrap yarn

Well, who knew that making a crochet hair scrunchie would turn into making two, three, four, five…?! These little stash busters are totally addictive! In truth, I’ve been making several scrunchies, adapting stitch counts as I go, to ensure the pattern has the perfect amount of ruffles. But even though this easy-peasy pattern has been perfected, it hasn’t stopped me from wanting more!

For speedy satisfaction, quick-fix crochet pattern ideas like these crochet hair bands are ideal when you don’t want to commit to a larger project. The free crochet pattern is below, eeek, I hope you like it!

If you’d like to know how to crochet around a hair tie, this is an easy project that you’ll enjoy making over and over again. I don’t need more, but I just can’t help imagining all the different colour combinations to try and all the different types of yarn that would look fabulous thrown together.

Stash Busting Hair Scrunchie: A Great Way to Use Yarn Scraps

The first iteration of the crochet hair scrunchie came about as I had leftovers from my Cirrus shawl. The crescent shawl uses two skeins of yarn: one lace-weight mohair and the other, a scrumptious DK boucle. There wasn’t much left of either as this shawl uses nearly all of both skeins. However, there were two walnut-sized balls leftover and therefore, ideal for a small crochet design. This version of the scrunchie doesn’t have as many stitches as the final pattern, so there weren’t enough ruffles for my liking. More ruffles, please!

Anyway, what can you do with little nuggets of yarn balls? All of those leftover yarn scraps? Tadah, crochet a ruffled hair scrunchie, of course!

No matter how many yarn scraps you have, you can throw them all into a design like this. The beauty of it is, is that you don’t need very much yarn at all. My heaviest crochet hair scrunchie uses just 15 grams of fingering-weight yarn. That’s only 60 metres!

The cirrus shawl uses mohair lace weight yarn and a DK boucles. The leftvoers were turned into a crochet hair scrunchie

What’s The Best Yarn For a Crochet Hair Scrunchie?

This design uses a lighter weight of yarn. It allows for more stitches and more ruffles without the bulk. You could change it up to a sport weight, perhaps even a double knit, but I think you’d have to reduce the number of stitches worked around the hair tie on the first round. This is possible to do, and it’s worth a try. However, do bear in mind that it could change the look of the scrunchie.

So, I recommend a fingering /sock weight yarn or 4ply, and when you’re feeling fancy, a lace weight mohair! You’ll need approximately 15 grams, which is 60 metres (66 yards) give or take.

If in doubt, take a look at my post all about Yarn Substitution.

Colourful crochet hair scrunchie, a free crochet pattern from Zeens and Roger

Magic Knot Yarn Ball

For the most colourful crochet hair scrunchie, all of my smallest yarn scraps were gathered together. Anything from a couple of metres up to around 10 metres, these leftovers from other projects were all knotted together in a magic ball.

This technique is hard to describe in writing, however, I do have a video tutorial that demonstrates how to make a magic knot ball of yarn. It’s for another freebie pattern, but it’s the same knot tying that I used here. Watch from 1:08

I might also put together a quick Reel on Instagram to show you the steps on making a magic knot ball. I haven’t done it yet, wish me luck!

You don’t have to get yourself tied up in knots, though. I have made crochet hair scrunchies by only changing colour after a round or two. There is also nothing stopping you from making them all in one colour. Make them in all the colourful variations!

Mohair crochet hair scrunchie

Using Mohair in Your Crochet Hair Scrunchie

Not everyone loves mohair yarn, but I do! I LOVE its fluffy warmth and delicate halo. I have amassed quite a lot of leftover mohair in my yarn stash, and it works perfectly for this crochet pattern. Actually, it’s not a bad introduction to using mohair yarn because it’s such a small project.

There are a couple of tips that make the experience even easier though. For the first round, where you crochet around the hair tie, use a non-fluffy fingering, sock or sport weight yarn. It’s not fiddly, whereas I think mohair would be for that round.

To make it even less fiddly, I don’t even bother working into the top of the mohair stitches but work in between them. That way, I can just shove the hook in between, and not so much precision is required. Have I ever mentioned that I am a supremely lazy crocheter?! Cutting corners can work sometimes… I didn’t do this for the fingering yarn hair tie though. You could if you wanted to.

Crochet Hair Scrunchie Pattern

Things You Need to Crochet a Hair Scrunchie

Please note that both US & UK patterns are below, make sure to choose the right one.
You’ll need a 4mm crochet hook and some yarn scraps from your stash. Go for fingering /sock weight yarn or 4ply, or if you’re in the mood, a lace weight mohair. You’ll need approximately 15 grams, which is 60 metres (66 yards). For the mohair, I only used 11 grams.

And you’ll need a normal, everyday elastic hair tie. I have long hair, so loads are kicking about the house. I used them for this, but I do need to buy some more. You can get ones with bamboo in them, which is great.

Plan on changing colour? I usually just introduce the new colour on the last “yarn over” of the last stitch of a round. Then the new colour is then ready to go. Or use another favourite method of your choice.

Scrunchie Pattern US Terms

This pattern is written in US terms – scroll a bit further for the UK version.
Rnd 1: 60sc around a hair tie, join with a sl st, do not turn. [60 sts]
Rnd 2: Ch3 (counts as a stitch here & throughout), 1dc in same st, 2dc in each st around, join to the first st with a sl st, do not turn. [120 sts]
Rnd 3: As Round 2. (240 sts)
Rnd 4: Ch3, 1dc in same st, 1dc in next st, *2dc in next st, 1dc in next; rep from * around, join with a sl st, do not turn. [360 sts]

You can fasten off here or change to a contrasting colour or contrasting texture of yarn, perhaps a thicker mohair or boucle yarn.

Rnd 5: Ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch), sc in first st, ch1, miss a st, *sc in next st, ch1, miss a st; rep from * around, join to first st with a sl st. Fasten off and sew in ends
(On my next scrunchie, I plan on adding 2 chains between each single crochet to see what that looks like. I think it’ll create a really nice finish.)

Scrunchie Pattern UK Terms

This pattern is written in UK terms – scroll up for the US version.
Rnd 1: 60dc around a hair tie, join with a sl st, do not turn. [60 sts]
Rnd 2: Ch3 (counts as a stitch here & throughout), 1tr in same st, 2tr in each st around, join to the first st with a sl st, do not turn. [120 sts]
Rnd 3: As Round 2. (240 sts)
Rnd 4: Ch3, 1tr in same st, 1tr in next st, *2tr in next st, 1tr in next; rep from * around, join with a sl st. [360 sts]

You can fasten off here or change to a contrasting colour or contrasting texture yarn, perhaps a thicker mohair or boucle yarn.

Rnd 5: Ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch), dc in first st, ch1, miss a st, *dc in next st, ch1, miss a st; rep from * around, join to first st with a sl st. Fasten off and sew in ends.
(On my next scrunchie, I plan on adding 2 chains between each double crochet to see what that looks like. I think it’ll create a really nice finish.)

Isn’t that a great pattern for crocheting from stash?! I ruddy love a crochet pattern that uses up scrap yarn!

If you make your crochet hair scrunchie, please let me know. You could add them to your project page on Ravelry too, that way I get to see what you’ve made!

For more Free Crochet Patterns, go here. And don’t forget to check out my crochet tips & tricks, here

Cheers. x

Simple Crochet Bobble Border

Crochet Bobble Border tutorial

Crochet Bobble Edging Pattern

There is no simpler edging for a granny square blanket than this crochet bobble border. It is super easy to do and very quick to crochet. You can use this simple crochet edging in lots of different ways, too. In addition to blankets, it works well for crochet accessories too (I’ve used it for shawl edgings, for example).

Below, you will find the written pattern for the crochet bobble border and you should also visit my YouTube channel for the bobble edging video tutorial.

Crochet Bobble border

Granny Square Blanket

For a while, I have been building up to writing up the crochet pattern for my granny square blanket (with its easy bobble border!). It is still not 100% complete. Over the last year or so, I have put together all the video tutorials and separate blog posts that, collectively, will be the resources you need to make your own version of the colourful crochet blanket.

granny square blanket

It has actually been much longer than a year in the making. The picture above was taken many years ago. It’s a granny square blanket that I made for one of my sisters. I remember buying the yarn from a beautiful little yarn shop on the Isle of Wight. My eldest son was two years old at the time. He is about to turn sixteen, which tells you how long ago the idea was born!

Granny square blanket with crochet bobble border

I’ve tweaked the pattern a little bit since then; the granny squares are slightly different and I’ve played around with the colour combinations. Fundamentally though, it’s still the same crochet blanket.

Video Resources for a Crochet Blanket

There are a couple of final jobs before the blanket pattern is fully complete. I haven’t yet calculated yarn amounts needed and I need to remember all the colours I used. Listing yarn brands isn’t difficult but it does require some time to sit down at the computer. Especially as it would be nice to collate everything into a PDF too. It takes longer than you might expect!

Before I get to that final stage, here is what is available so far….

A fun place to start is my crochet podcast. In episode 104 I blithely chat about the blanket enough for you to get an idea of what it’s all about.

Then, for the “how to” vids, here is a video tutorial for the cute little granny squares. You’ll see what else I have used them for (aren’t granny squares versatile?!). I also demonstrate a Join As You Go Technique in the video tutorial for these squares, which is a great alternative for joining granny squares but I chose to join the blanket squares using the mattress stitch (see below).

To accompany the smallies, we have the large granny square with a circle centre. The video shows you how to change colour if you want new colours every round. It then continues to show you how to work the granny squares if you’d rather not change colour. Theses are useful techniques to have in your crochet repetoire.

Use the Mattress Stitch to join your granny squares. It creates such a professional finish. I know JAYG is awesome and speedy but I promise that the mattress stitch is worth the effort.

Granny square blanket. Joining with mattress stitch

Crochet Bobble Edge Video Tutorial

The latest video tutorial to join the granny blanket resources is my new crochet bobble border video. It’s such a simple crochet border and it’s really fun to work up. It must be fun as I regularly choose to add this to blankets and crochet accessories.

For example, check out the bobble border on my Cirrus shawl too. It looks utterly fab in boucle yarn!

Anyway, if you’re a fan of a written crochet pattern, and/or want to use it as well as the video on my YouTube channel, read on…..

A crochet bobble border on the Cirrus shawl.

Written Pattern for a Crochet Bobble Border

Bobble Border Notes Etc

  • The crochet bobble border uses a stitch multiple of 4.
  • Use whatever yarn and hook size you like to create your crochet bobble border. I used DK yarn with a 4mm hook.
  • You can work this into a round of US double crochet stitches, hdc or sc stitches, it’ll look great worked into any of them.
  • Work the crochet bobble border on the wrong side of your crochet project.
  • For my granny blanket, this final round is worked into a round of US dc stitches (UK tr stitches).

Also note, life is too short for accuracy with this border. When it comes to adding it to a large crochet blanket, I refuse to count all of those stitches to check if I have the correct amount of multiples. Just fudge it! You won’t get sent to crochet prison.

Before you begin, here is how to work a Bobble Stitch:
[yrh, insert hook into st, yrh, pull through, yrh, pull through 2 loops] five times in same st, yrh, pull through all 6 loops.

Crochet Pattern Abbreviations (US Terms)

ch: chain, dc: double crochet, dc2tog: double crochet 2 together, sl st: slip stitch, sp: space, yrh: yarn round hook,

TLDR Version -Universal Crochet Terms (Works for Both US & UK!)

Round 1: Working on the wrong side, join yarn to any stitch, *3 sl st, 1 bobble; rep from * around, join with a sl st to the first st. Cut yarn and fasten off. Done

Do you want the longer version for this granny blanket? Oh, go on then…

Full Granny Blanket Border

This is for when you have finished joining all your granny squares together, making one big crochet blanket, and you’re ready to add a full border. I mentioned in the video tutorial that you can add as many rounds of granny clusters as your yarn stash will allow.

Note that I have written “ch3” to start the rounds. However, should you wish to use an alternative technique that looks waaay better, take a look at this video on alternative ways to chain 3. I demonstrate both in the edging tutorial. Or, rewatch the large granny tutorial so that you can see the alternative ways in more context. This latter video helps with how to change colour for crochet rounds too.

Where two granny squares meet, we add a little twist to the standard granny cluster. This is to ensure the blanket edges remain nice and straight. You don’t want to create too much fabric by adding extra clusters or you’ll end up with a kinky granny.

Take a look at the picture above, it shows two corners of granny squares sitting side by side (blue & orange). Rather than each of them having its own cluster in their respective corners, we work one makeshift cluster across them both. (in US terms) you work 1dc in the first corner, then dc2tog (a decrease) across both corners, ending with 1dc in the second corner = (1dc, dc2tog, 1dc).

Granny Bobble Border Pattern

Round 1 (US terms): Join yarn to any space between granny clusters, ch3, 2dc in same space, *3dc in next space between clusters; rep from * to next two granny square corners, 1dc in first granny corner, dc2tog across the first and 2nd granny corners, 1dc in 2nd granny corner, continue in pattern to corner, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in 2ch-sp, continue in pattern around, join with a sl st to the top of the first st, do not turn.

Rnds 2 – whatever number you like: Ch3, 2dc in same space, *3dc in next space between clusters; rep from * to corner, (3dc, 2ch, 3dc) in corner, rep from * to next corner and continue in pattern around, join with a sl st to the top of the first st, do not turn.

Next Rnd: Ch3, dc to first corner, 5dc in corner 2ch-sp, continue in pattern around, join with sl st to first st, turn.

Last Round (Bobble edging worked on wrong side): *3sl st, 1 bobble st; rep from * around, join with sl st to first st, fasten off & cut yarn.

Crochet bobble edging on a granny square blanket

If you have enjoyed this free crochet pattern, please take a look around my blog for some excellent crochet tips & tricks, which I really enjoy putting together, plus find more free crochet patterns here.

Cheers! x

Disco Stitches Sampler Scarf

Disco Stitches crochet Sampler Scarf

Crochet Sampler Scarf Design

Last year I worked with Lindsey from Curate Curate (aka Lottie & Albert!) to design this fun crochet sampler scarf. The idea behind the scarf was to introduce a few classic crochet stitches but mix them up in an interesting and unique way.

The good news is that I have released the crochet pattern and you can buy a copy from Ravelry or, if you prefer, my Etsy shop. If you purchase within the first few weeks of release, enjoy 25% off with the code DISCO25.

This colourful crochet sampler scarf pattern comes in both UK & US terms and has lots of supporting photographs and charts.

A fun crochet sampler scarf using colour changing yarn.

A Discovery of Stitches Scarf

You can read more about the original Discovery of Stitches scarf here. For this new version, I wanted to have a scarf that had a few more colours and also incorporate some yarn stash busting. The Disco Stitches crochet sampler scarf is an excellent way to use up leftover yarn scraps!

But for those of you who are not interested in stash busting, I also opted for two new yarns to work with and you can enjoy a colour-changing yarn so that you don’t have to think about what colours to choose.

Crochet Sampler Scarf Construction

The Disco Stitches crochet sampler scarf is made in two identical pieces that are then sewn together in the middle. I have noticed that many crocheters are turned off by sewing so this scarf has no sewing in the actual making of the pieces.

Two strips are made in the same way, but the colours are swapped around for the second piece. This ensures that the same amount of yarn is used in both pieces and there are little to no leftovers.

Each stitch section builds on the next. The stitches are nice and easy and it is a very mindful crochet make. Yippee!

Crochet sampler scarf

What Yarn Do You Need?

In the greeny blue version I used a colour changing DK yarn called Hayfield Spirit (in the colour way, Meadow) paired with Stylecraft Life DK, in Parchment. My favourite version of the crochet sampler scarf is the stash busting scarf. For that one, I mostly used Yarnsmiths 100% Merino DK yarn. Although, there is a possibility that one or two of the contrast shades are a different brand. However, I’m sure you can substitute with many other yarn brands.

You can find out more about yarn substitution here. You don’t have to use the yarn I did. Use what you have and you’ll end with your own cracking crochet project.

Fringe Or Tassels for a Scarf?

You can also choose whether to add fringe or tassels to your crochet sampler scarf. You may know by now that I love to provide different options in my patterns and this design is no exception.

I loved putting together the ombre fringe for the colour-changing scarf. It was really calming and mindful to sort through my yarn strands and create a gentle spectrum of blues and greens. I used every bit of that 100g ball of Meadow in the scarf. No wastage!!

But I was also really curious to see what the scarf would look like with a cute bundle of tassels! I wish I had added more tassels but I didn’t have enough of the neutral shade left. Oops. That sometimes happens with stash busting (but fear not, I have calculated what you need of the main colour in the pattern).

Disco Stitches, a crochet sampler scarf

Support to Help You and Your Crochet Sampler Scarf

Not only are there lots of new crochet charts and photos to support you when you make this crochet sampler scarf, the Disco stitches sampler is also supported by a few video tutorials too.

So, if you aren’t sure on how to make tassels, I have a video tutorial for you. And if you’d like to see some great alternatives to chaining 3, I have a tutorial for that as well!

You’ll find that I have also used video tutorials for slightly different patterns where the techniques used are the same. For example, the way I join my granny squares rounds is demonstrated in a video for a granny square blanket.

The mattress stitch is also used in the crochet sampler scarf (only once, don’t worry) and I have a video tutorial to show you exactly how to work that sewing stitch. It’s in a video for joining granny squares rather than two scarf pieces but it’s the same method. But here is how I see it, everything in crochet is super versatile and I employ the same excellent techniques again and again in my patterns. Why would I not?!

Although today is a lovely sunny day and I can feel that spring is on the way, there is still plenty of scarf-wearing weather ahead of us. So feel free to pop over to my Ravelry store and get a copy of the crochet scarf pattern! If you’re not a Ravelry user, you can also find the crochet pattern in Etsy.

You can also find more of my crochet patterns in those places or check out my free crochet patterns page. Ta very much! x

Barking Mad – A Houndstooth Stitch Scarf

Easy Crochet Scarf. Houndstooth stitch scarf pattern from Zeens and Roger

Crochet Houndstooth Scarf

I LOVE the crochet Houndstooth Stitch and doesn’t it look great in a scarf?!! It is an all-time favourite that deserves to be visited on a regular basis. In fact, one day I should write a love letter to it, it’s that good. And by love letter, I mean a blog post of its very own, a dedication to my love of the Houndstooth stitch!

It is such a simple crochet stitch pattern; just two basic little stitches. When you introduce two colours, on top of each other in tidy rows, a little bit of magic happens. It’s so pretty! US single and double crochets (AKA UK double and treble crochets) sit together in pairs to replicate the classic textile of the same name.

Depending on which side you look at the fabric, one colour will dominate and that’s one of the things that makes it such a delight.

This crochet houndstooth stitch scarf pattern is part of a set that’s not yet released. Together, they will be henceforth known as Barking Mad. I am not sharing it all today. I am saving the rest for a later date. On the horizon are a couple of other accessories that will join this awesome crochet scarf pattern.

I made the Barking Mad scarf a few weeks ago but have not had the time to show it off. Instagram tells me that I was working on it in November 2024! Feels like ages ago!

Due to a busy December and a surprisingly busy January too, I haven’t been able to publish it. I am still struggling for time so the rest of the Barking Mad set will be released in a few weeks. Probably to coincide with the weather getting nicer, typical!

Houndstooth Crochet Scarf – The Yarn.

To make your own easy crochet houndstooth stitch scarf, you need two colours of yarn. To make it extra special, I introduced a lace-weight mohair yarn to hold with two indie-dyed skeins of sock-weight yarn.

This weekend is the Unravel Yarn Festival in Farnham and funnily enough, I purchased both of the main yarns at the festival. Each skein weighs 100 grams. The beautiful blue is a yarn I bought from Spectrum Fibre at Unravel in 2019. The label tells me it is a Twisted Sock (love a high twist yarn!!) called Little Blue Dress. Then, I went again last year and bought a skein from Bona Yarns called Mostisky. I think that’s the name. That one isn’t a high twist but when paired with the mohair, you can’t tell that they are a different yarn base.

In stash, I had mohair to closely match both shades. Seeing as mohair normally comes in 25 gram balls, I needed two balls of each colour (typically, for every 50g of sock or fingering weight yarn, you need 25g of lace-weight mohair. Most of the time I use Drops Kid Silk mohair as it is reasonably priced.

If you have never used fluffy yarn to crochet with, read my top tips for using mohair here. It is one of my favourite things to do to achieve beautiful crochet makes.

You do not have to use mohair with your chosen yarn. This Houndstooth stitch scarf will look fabulous in most yarns. I think a Merino DK yarn would be awesome and I want to make one soon. Just make sure you use the appropriate sized hook for the yarn you choose. (For a DK, that would most likely be a 4mm crochet hook).

Barking Mad. Houndstooth Stitch Scarf

Special Crochet Stitches

There are a couple of things that you will find useful when following the scarf pattern. Here are some special crochet stitches that I use.

Stacked Start (SSt) – How to Start the Crochet Rows:

This is instead of starting rows by chaining, it avoids that pesky hole at the ends of the fabric. So much better than chaining 3!
Here is how to crochet a Stacked Start: Insert hook in first st, yarn over [yo] and pull through, yo and pull through both loops on hook (it helps to gently pinch the st at this point to make the next stage easier), *insert hook in left leg of the st (the pinch helps the back loop to become looser and more visible), yo and pull through, yo and pull through both loops; rep one more time from *.
Watch this crochet video for a Stacked Start (time stamp 5:12). Note that for this houndstooth stitch scarf I did not bother working in the loop behind. 

US dc3tog / UK Tr3tog (a decrease):

Yo hook, insert hook into first st, yo & pull through (3 loops on hook), yo, pull through 2 loops, yo, insert into next st, yo & pull through (4 loops on hook), yo, pull through 2 loops (3 loops on hook), yo, insert into next st, yo & pull through 2 loops, yo and pull through all loops.

(Stacked) Beg of Row US dc3tog / UK tr3tog:

Insert hook in first st, yo and pull through, yo and pull through both loops on hook (it helps to gently pinch the st at this point to make the next stage easier), insert hook in left leg of the st and the loop behind it (the pinch helps the back loop to become looser and more visible), yo and pull through (2 loops on hook), yo and insert hook into next st, yo and pull through (4 loops on hook), yo and pull through 2 loops (3 loops on hook), yo and insert hook in next st, yo and pull through (5 loops on hook), yo and pull through 2 loops (4 loops on hook), yo and pull through all loops.

This decrease to start rows is demonstrated in the same video as linked above. Watch from 9:40.

Barking Mad Houndstooth Stitch Scarf Pattern

Oky poky, you want to crochet this easy peasy crochet scarf? If, like me, you are using two pretty coloured sock-weight yarns held with mohair, reach for a 3.75mm hook.

Note that it is a lot easier to use a couple of stitch markers at the beginning and end of rows. Move them up each row. I often don’t bother with them but here, I found the decrease stitches a bit tricksy to see so a stitch marker identifies exactly where the first and last stitches of a row are. PM means place marker. MM means move marker.

Also, note that you want to carry the yarn so you don’t have to sew in loads of ends. What that means is you crochet over the non-working yarn as you go. Gently give it a little tug every now and then so it’s not too loose. But don’t pull so tight that it scrunches up your scarf. Keep the tension even.

To change colour, pull it through on the last yarn over of the previous row. Then you are ready to start the next row with the new colour.

Houndstooth Scarf Pattern

As the instructions are quite brief, below are separate patterns for US and UK crochet terminology. I assume you know the more standard terms. Special stitches are above, you have scrolled past them….

Crochet Scarf Pattern US terms

With YA, make a magic ring or ch3 and join with sl st.
Row 1: (1SSt, 2dc) into the ring, turn. – [3 sts]
2: (1SSt, 2dc) in first st, 1dc in next st, 3dc in last st, turn. – [7 sts]
3: With YB, (1SSt, 2dc) in first st, 1sc in next st, *1dc, 1sc; rep from * to last st, 3dc in last st, turn. – [11 sts]
4: With YA, (1SSt, 1dc, 1sc) in first st, 1dc in next st, *1sc, 1dc; rep from * to last st, (1sc, 2dc) in last st, turn. – [15 sts]
5- 15: Rep Rows 3 & 4 ending with Row 3. – [59 sts]
16: With YA, (1SSt, 1dc, 1sc) in first st, 1dc in next st, *1sc, 1dc; rep from * to last 3 sts, dc3tog, turn.
17: With YB, Beg of Row dc3tog, PM, 1sc in next st, *1dc, 1sc; rep from * to last st, 3dc, turn.
18- 128: Rep Rows 16 & 17, ending with Row 16. – [59 sts]
129: With YB, Beg of Row dc3tog, PM, 1sc in next st, *1dc, 1sc; rep from * to last 3 sts, dc3tog, turn. – 55 sts.
130: With YA, Beg of Row dc3tog, PM, 1dc in next st, *1sc, 1dc; rep from * to last 3 sts, dc3tog, turn – [51 sts].
131 – 141: Rep Rows 129 & 130, ending with Row 129 – [7 sts]
142: With YA, Beg of Row dc3tog, – [3sts]
143: Beg of Row dc3tog.
Fasten off and cut yarn.

Crochet Scarf Pattern UK terms

With YA, make a magic ring or ch3 and join with sl st.
Row 1: (1SSt, 2tr) into the ring, turn. – [3 sts]
2: (1SSt, 2tr) in first st, 1 tr in next st, 3tr in last st, turn. – [7 sts]
3: With YB, (1SSt, 2tr) in first st, 1dc in next st, *1tr, 1dc; rep from * to last st, 3tr in last st, turn. – [11 sts]
4: With YA, (1SSt, 1tr, 1dc) in first st, 1tr in next st, *1dc, 1tr; rep from * to last st, (1dc, 2tr) in last st, turn. – [15 sts]
5- 15: Rep Rows 3 & 4 ending with Row 3. – [59 sts]
16: With YA, (1SSt, 1tr, 1dc) in first st, 1tr in next st, *1dc, 1tr; rep from * to last 3 sts, tr3tog, turn.
17: With YB, Beg of Row tr3tog, PM, 1dc in next st, *1tr, 1dc; rep from * to last st, 3tr, turn.
18- 128: Rep Rows 16 & 17, ending with Row 16. – [59 sts]
129: With YB, Beg of Row tr3tog, PM, 1dc in next st, *1tr, 1dc; rep from * to last 3 sts, tr3tog, turn. – 55 sts.
130: With YA, Beg of Row tr3tog, PM, 1tr in next st, *1dc, 1tr; rep from * to last 3 sts, tr3tog, turn – [51 sts].
131 – 141: Rep Rows 129 & 130, ending with Row 129 – [7 sts]
142: With YA, Beg of Row tr3tog, – [3sts]
143: Beg of Row tr3tog.
Fasten off and cut yarn.

Blocking Your Crochet

I think blocking your crochet is important and adds extra impact. It neatens up the fabric and sets the stitches. All I did to block this scarf was to pin it out on the blocking mats and run a bit of steam over the top of it. Once it was dry, the drape was immense!

Eh, a houndstooth stitch scarf may not require the attention of blocking but I do think it is worth the extra effort to ensure you get the best out of your crochet.

Houndstooth Stitch Scarf crochet pattern with mohair yarn

Keep scrolling for a sneak peek at one of the other Barking Mad accessories.

Houndstooth stitch scarf crochet pattern

And that’s it! What do you think? I really hope you like this crochet houndstooth stitch scarf as I think it’s an absolute doozy!! And if you like my crochet work, have you checked out my other free crochet patterns?

Easy Crochet Earmuffs

Crochet earmuffs and a crochet sweater!

Granny Stitch Circles

I get very cold and hurty ears at this time of year and so, to combat the chill, I have made myself some easy crochet earmuffs! This pattern is a very quick make and was inspired by my recent free crochet pattern for a granny stripe hat. It uses exactly the same pattern to begin.

Just before I cancelled Amazon Prime a couple of weeks ago, I hastily bought a couple of cheap pairs of fluffy earmuffs as I knew they’d be great for satisfying my urge for this quick-fix crochet project. This earmuffs pattern is also a great yarn stashbuster (I do love a stash buster!).

The only problem I have had so far is getting my choice of yarn colours right. I have been torn between all the possible combinations. It is so difficult to choose favourites sometimes! However, I had to draw a line in the sand and just make them. But, the nature of this design, is that you can make several pairs and swap them over depending on your mood. A crochet win!

My ears are toasty warms in crochet earmuffs!

Crochet Earmuffs Free Pattern

What Yarn? What Crochet Hook? What Else Do I Need?

Right, to make your own crochet earmuffs, you only need a few scraps of double-knit yarn. I used a 3.75mm hook rather than the usual 4mm I use for dk yarn as you want to make sure the stitches aren’t too loose.

I have loads of dk yarn in my stash; lots of little balls to use up. In this case, the yarn could be any brand, it’s a mix of all sorts. But generally speaking, I prefer to use merino yarn or an acrylic merino blend. For a speedy crochet pattern such as this, it doesn’t really matter.

You will need some shop-bought earmuffs. The ones I bought were sold in two-packs and under a tenner for both pairs. They fit me, an arguably grown-up woman with an average-sized head.

You will also need two 30cm / 12-inch lengths of thin elastic, two circles of fabric measuring around 20cm / 8 inches, and a darning needle.

Now, if you want to be really precise, you should also get some elastic to gather the fabric too but I didn’t have enough elastic left for that. It would be neater and easier if you did…

Things you need to make granny crochet earmuffs

Crochet Video Tutorials

The written crochet pattern for earmuffs is below but check out this video for How to crochet a large granny square. Watch from 2:25 to see me demonstrate the first few rounds. Whilst it’s for a different thing, both projects start the same way. Round 3 is ever so slightly different in the tutorial but it achieves the same result. You actually hear me dither about changing how I’m going to do that round in the video!

UK Crochet Abbreviations

Please don’t be put off by the UK terminology. We’re talking granny stitch here and you all know that that’s a trio of US double crochet stitches. Whenever you see me write “treble”, it’s a US double. Everything else is the same.

beg = beginning, ch = chain, ch-sp = chain space, clu = cluster, st(s) = stitch(es), sp(s) = space(s), sl st = slip stitch,
sttr = standing treble start, tr = treble, rep = repeat, yrh = yarn round hook.

Special Crochet Stitches

Beg tr2tog:
This is used at the beginning of Rnd 1 to work the first “petal”. It uses the same principle as a Stacked start. See the video for the large granny square tutorial linked above. 

Insert hook in circle, yrh and pull through, yrh and pull through both loops on hook (it helps to gently pinch the st at this point to make the next stage easier), insert hook in left leg of the st and the loop behind it (the pinch helps the back loop to become looser and more visible), yrh and pull through, (2 loops on hook), yrh and insert hook into the circle, yrh and pull through (4 loops on hook), yrh and pull through 2 loops, yrh and pull through 3 loops. 

Standing tr start (sttr):
This is instead of starting rounds by chaining 3, it looks much tidier than a 3-chain and it’s fun to do! This method is perfect when changing colour at the beginning of rows/rounds:

Yrh three times and hold loops on hook with forefinger, insert hook in sp/st, yrh and pull through, [yrh and pull through 2 loops] twice. 
Let go of the yarn wrapped around your hook. First treble stitch made.

crochet earmuffs, a free pattern from zeens and roger

Pattern for Crochet Earmuffs

Feel free to chain 5 and join with a sl st (you’ll see this shown in the video tutorial linked in Special Stitches above). But, I think using a Magic Circle is valid here. Better, in fact. Start however you like though!

UK Terms
Rnd 1: 1Beg tr2tog, ch2, *tr2tog, 2ch: rep from * 6 more times, join with a sl st into the 1st 2ch-sp. Fasten off & cut yarn. – 8 “petals”

2: Attach new yarn with 1sttr in any 2ch-sp, 2tr in same sp, 1ch, *3tr in next 2ch-sp, 1ch; rep from * 6 more times, join with a sl st into the top of the sttr. Fasten off & cut yarn.

3 (Inc): Attach new yarn with 1sttr in any 1ch-sp, (1tr, 1ch, 2tr) in same sp, *(2tr, 1ch, 2tr) in next 1ch-sp; rep from * 6 more times, join with a sl st into the top of the sttr. Fasten off & cut yarn.

4: Attach new yarn with 1sttr in any 1ch-sp, 2tr in same sp, miss 2 sts, 3tr, *miss 2 tr, 3tr in next 1ch-sp, miss 2 sts, 3tr; rep from * around join with a sl st into the top of the sttr. Fasten off & cut yarn. -16 clu

5 & 6: Attach new yarn with 1sttr in any sp between clusters, 2tr in same sp, *3tr in next sp; rep from * around join with a sl st into the top of the sttr. Fasten off, cut yarn and sew in ends. 

Ok, now for the fun bit…

Turn Crochet Granny Circles into Earmuffs!

So, you can leave a long tail and use that to gather and secure the crochet to the ear muff. But it’s then more permanently fitted. If you add a little bit of elastic around the outer edge of the crochet circle and tie it closed, you can make the crochet covers removable. You can then make loads of different coloured crochet ear muff covers to swap over whenever you fancy a change!

hazards of making crochet earmuffs
See the sticky-out fluff in the muff?!

This is the point where you need the round scrap of fabric. What happens if you don’t have fabric? You can go without if you’d rather but the fluff on my muff burst through the granny holes! Oh dear. Use fabric as a barrier between the fluff and the crochet. As you know, I didn’t have enough elastic to gather the fabric but I would recommend this step. If you going to, you could use either thread or shirring elastic.

To add the elastic to the crochet granny circles you’ve made, thread the length in and out between the stitches, all the way around the outer edge. Tie the ends together in a knot and it’s ready to pop snuggly around your muff! Add the fabric layer first.

Voila! How quick are these crochet earmuffs!!?

If your muffs are a different size, you may want to fiddle around to make the crochet covers bigger or smaller, but that’s all part of the fun.

Me in my crochet earmuffs

If you like this free crochet pattern, take a look at what else I have on offer. My free crochet patterns can be found HERE!

Thanks for reading, cheers! x

Granny Stripe Hat Pattern

Crochet A Granny Stripe Hat

This is such a quick granny stripe hat to crochet, the main stripes of granny clusters are worked up lickety-split! The “knit-look” crochet ribbing, whilst it takes a little longer to crochet than other rib-effect stitches, it creates a soft, squishy texture and a superb elastic stretch. It is very much worth the effort for a fantastic final result.

This hat was born from a summer version that, so far, I have refused to release as a pattern. I made several prototypes but I just didn’t like it. I am not a fan of summer hats and I wondered what would happen if I concentrated my efforts on a design that I would appreciate more.

A woolly warm, winter crochet hat is far more appealing than a cotton bucket hat. Thus, here we have a granny stripe hat that’s perfect for winter! Today, I thought I would share the pattern below. You can also purchase an ad-free version in my Ravelry store and I also have copies for sale on Etsy. The paid version also includes an additional chart.

For 25% off the paid version until the end of the year, use the code: GRANNYHAT at the checkout.

Free Crochet Pattern. Granny Stripe hat

What You Need To Crochet Your Granny Stripe Hat

To make your hat you will need a 4mm hook (US G-6). Or a hook size that meets gauge (more info below). I know you’ll be tempted not to bother with gauge as this is just a hat but if you notice that you are wildly off, please check!

You will also need 100g of Double Knit (DK) yarn. This can be all one colour, or mix it up for a multicoloured fun fest. Just under 50g is required for the brim, which is all in one colour.

And, if you fancy, add a pompom for a finishing touch. I bought cheap ones from a local garden centre. I was too lazy to make a pompom this time around. Plus, these shop bought ones are super light and don’t pull on the hats. I hadn’t thought about that before.

This is a DK Yarn Crochet Hat

I tried a few different yarn brands and made four different hats for my experiments. I also had a handful of awesome testers who tried a few more yarns too. From looking at the super important crochet hat making data, the outcome is that a standard DK weight creates the best results.

I was initially foxed by the first yarn brand I tried as their “DK” weight was very plump and it tricked me into thinking a worsted would work for the pattern I’d come up with. Whilst you certainly could get away with a worsted weight yarn if you reduced the increases, for the sake of uniformity, DK is the best yarn for the job here.

If you would like to find out more about yarn substitution, please go HERE. It is a one-stop post that’ll provide an overview of all your yarn subbing queries.

A Perfect Stash Busting Granny Hat

In the end, I used a blend of a couple of different DK weight yarns and made an awesome dent in my yarn stash.

In my stash, I had leftovers of King Cole Majestic and West Yorkshire Spinners Bo Peep. They are both a teensy bit different in yardage but once I was crocheting, it didn’t make a difference. My granny stripe hats look great with a mix of colours and brands. However, both the yarns are a merino/acrylic blend so have a very similar feel to them.

I don’t know the exact yardage for each stripe but when wound up in a ball, we’re talking the size of a large walnut. Take a quick look at the picture below (the one with me in my scruffy jimjams and the cat). To the left are the size of woolly balls you need for each round. I know this because I undid them from the hat as I didn’t like the colour order!

Crocheting a granny hat

Granny Hat Measurements

This granny stripe hat has approx 8cm negative ease. This means that it is about 8cm smaller than an actual adult head. It shouldn’t be too baggy as it is stretching to fit comfortably yet securely. Therefore, it will fit snuggly atop a bonce that needs warming.

The following measurements are taken on newly made, unblocked hats stretched slightly after one outing/wear about town. 

Hat circumference: (49) 50 cm.
Hat depth with brim folded: 22cm
Unfolded brim depth: 10.5cm
Depth of granny stripe rounds: 17cm

  • Make size 1 for a head measuring 56 – 57cm.
  • Make size 2 for a head measuring 58 – 59cm.

Granny Stripe Tension

Tension is key to the size of a finished granny stripe hat. The following measurements are taken from an unblocked hat, as above.

Granny Stripes: 5.5 clu / 10 rows = 10cm
Brim ribbing: 24 rows / 24 sts = 10cm. 

If you would like to know more about what tension means in relation to your crochet, read about getting gauge in your crochet HERE.

A stash busting granny stripe hat

Adjusting the Size of Your Granny Stripe Hat

With all crochet, there is always room for tweaking and adjusting to make something unique and perfect for the individual. However, if you would rather not tinker with stitch counts, try a simple change such as using a different hook size to get a smaller or larger gauge. Perhaps a 3.5mm or 3.75mm hook for a smaller hat, Or, for a larger hat, a 4.5mm hook.

Adjusting the granny stripe section for a different head size means altering the number of clusters on increase rounds. Adding or removing a cluster will change the hat’s circumference by approximately 1cm. Round 8 is an increase round and a good round for adding or subtracting a cluster. This pattern has either 2 or 3 increases on Round 8 depending on the size. If your hat is coming up a bit too small, why not add a 4th increase?

To make an extra large hat, add another round or two of granny stripes before continuing to the foundation round of UK dc / US sc stitches.

Crochet Ribbing Adjustments

To adjust ribbing, the stitch count needs to be changed on Round 17. This is the foundation upon which the Join As You Go ribbing is worked. Because of the different tension of the ribbing, it draws the hat in. With no increases on Round 17, crumbs, it was so tight it wouldn’t join up! So, whilst the increases might look a bit complicated on paper, they are as evenly distributed as possible. The paid version of the granny stripe hat pattern has a chart so you can check out the visuals of increases.

The foundation stitches of Round 17 should be multiples of 2, plus 1 but you’ll get away with a little bit of fudging too. Negative ease is needed for the brim so don’t add too many extra stitches if you’re upsizing. 

Join As You Go Ribbing for a Granny Stripe Hat

Using the Same Colour Every Stripe Round?

The crochet hat pattern below assumes you will change colour for each granny stripe round. Each round begins by joining a new colour of yarn with “sttr” which is the rather fabulous Standing Start – see below for more information about Special Stitches.

To make a hat using the all same colour means using a different method to start subsequent rounds. It’s not a difficult crochet method, just different.

What you need to do is this: once the previous round has been joined with a slip stitch, slip stitch into the next two stitches and into the next space between clusters. From here, start the next round with a chain three, or your preferred alternative, such as a Stacked Start.

Don’t worry if you’re confused, let me help further… Take a look at the video for Alternatives to a Chain 3. A tutorial for the Stacked Start is shown in the video tutorial but if you prefer, there’s always a No Turning Chain start too. Watch my video for a Large Granny Square from 30:48 for a demonstration of the technique for when you don’t want to change colour every round.

Crochet Granny stripe Hat pattern

Crochet Pattern Abbreviations

I am going to pop the stitch pattern abbreviations in here as I start talking in crochet speak from here on.

Before I do, I think it’s worth mentioning that this pattern is only available in UK terms at the moment. But please don’t let that put you off. The swap/conversion you have to do is minimal. We’re talking granny clusters here and you know as well as I do that these are always the same!

So, the main stitch in the pattern in UK terms is the treble stitch. In US terms this is a double crochet (dc). So, US pals, work your grannies as normal; clusters of 3dc. Round 17 will be single crochet stitches for you. And that’s it!

Abbreviations (UK terms)
beg
= beginning, BLO = back loop only, ch = chain, ch-sp = chain space, clu = cluster,
dc = double crochet (US sc), st(s) = stitch(es), sp(s) = space(s), sl st = slip stitch,
sttr = standing treble start, tr = treble (US dc), rep = repeat, r/s = sight side, w/s = wrong side,
YO sl st = yarn over slip stitch, yrh = yarn round hook.

Special Crochet Stitches

Beg tr2tog:
This is used at the beginning of Rnd 1 to work the first “petal”. It uses the same principle as a Stacked Start. See the video for How to Start Round 1

Insert hook in circle, yrh and pull through, yrh and pull through both loops on hook (it helps to gently pinch the st at this point to make the next stage easier), insert hook in left leg of the st and the loop behind it (the pinch helps the back loop to become looser and more visible), yrh and pull through, (2 loops on hook), yrh and insert hook into the circle, yrh and pull through (4 loops on hook), yrh and pull through 2 loops, yrh and pull through 3 loops. 

Standing tr start (sttr):
The Standing Start is a method demonstrated in the video for Alternatives to Chain 3. Use this instead of chaining 3 to start the beginning of a row/round, it looks much tidier than a 3-chain and it’s fun to do!

Yrh three times and hold loops on hook with forefinger, insert hook in sp/st, yrh and pull through, [yrh and pull through 2 loops] twice. 
Let go of the yarn wrapped around your hook. First treble stitch made.

Supporting Video Tutorials For Crochet

How to Start Round 1 – This is a tutorial for a granny square but Round 1 is exactly the same for the hat too.

Alternatives to a Chain 3 – This will help you start new rounds in a tidy way. I demonstrate the Standing Start and the Stacked Start in this video. You could even try the No Turning chain, which I bemoan in the video but can actually be very effective! Don’t tell anyone, but I have started using it way more since I made this video tutorial!

Join As You Go Ribbing – The ribbing used in this granny stripe pattern is demonstrated from 18:02. It is a “knit-look” crochet ribbing and one I have used a lot. And yes, I know it has slip stitches but they are much more fun to do when accompanied by a yarn over sl st. Honest!

Using the same colour every round? Watch the tutorial for the Large Granny Square from 30:48 for the first three rounds and you can use a totally different method for starting rounds that will achieve excellent results. This granny square tutorial is a pretty useful video as I also demonstrate the Standing Start again (7:09).

Granny Stripe Hat Crochet Pattern

Hat Pattern Notes

  • This crochet hat pattern is written in UK terms – feel free to check out the abbreviations above for more details.
  • A cluster is 3 UK tr / US dc stitches made in the same space.
  • Using a different weight of yarn or a different sized hook will affect the size of the hat. 
  • Follow the pattern for both sizes. At Round 8 the reps for both sizes are shown as 11(7). Size 1 is the first number with size 2 in brackets.

Granny Stripe Hat Pattern

Chain 5 and join with a sl st.
1: 1Beg tr2tog, ch2, *tr2tog, 2ch: rep from * 6 more times, join with a sl st into the 1st 2ch-sp. Fasten off & cut yarn. – 8 “petals”

2: Attach new yarn with 1sttr in any 2ch-sp, 2tr in same sp, 1ch, *3tr in next 2ch-sp, 1ch; rep from * 6 more times, join with a sl st into the top of the sttr. Fasten off & cut yarn.

3 (Inc): Attach new yarn with 1sttr in any 1ch-sp, (1tr, 1ch, 2tr) in same sp, *(2tr, 1ch, 2tr) in next 1ch-sp; rep from * 6 more times, join with a sl st into the top of the sttr. Fasten off & cut yarn.

4: Attach new yarn with 1sttr in any 1ch-sp, 2tr in same sp, miss 2 sts, 3tr, *miss 2 tr, 3tr in next 1ch-sp, miss 2 sts, 3tr; rep from * around join with a sl st into the top of the sttr. Fasten off & cut yarn. -16 clu

5: Attach new yarn with 1sttr in any sp between clusters, 2tr in same sp, *3tr in next sp; rep from * around join with a sl st into the top of the sttr. Fasten off & cut yarn. 

6 (inc): Attach new yarn with 1sttr in any sp, (1tr, 1ch, 2tr) in same sp, 3tr in next sp, *(2tr, 1ch, 2tr) in next sp, 3tr in next sp; rep from * around, join with a sl st into the top of the sttr. – 24 clu

7:  Attach new yarn with 1sttr in any 1ch-sp, 2tr in same sp, 3tr in each sp between clusters and in each ch-sp, join with a sl st into the top of the sttr.

8 (inc): Attach new yarn with 1sttr in any sp, (1tr, 1ch, 2tr) in same sp, 3tr in next 11(7)  sps, *(2tr, 1ch, 2tr) in next sp, 3tr in next 11 (7) sps; rep from * 0 (1) more time, join with a sl st into the top of the sttr. – 26 (27) clu

9: As Rnd 7.

10 – 16:  Attach new yarn with 1sttr in any sp, 2tr in same sp, 3tr in each sp between clusters around, join with a sl st into the top of the sttr.  

For a smaller head you may wish to only work 15 rounds, or 17 rounds for a larger head.

17 (size 1): Attach brim ribbing yarn to any st, 1ch (does not count as a st), [2dc in first st, 1dc, *2dc in next st, 3dc; rep from * five more times] three times, join with a sl st into the top of the st. – 99 sts

17 (size 2): Attach brim ribbing, 1ch, 2dc in first st, 3dc, 2dc in next st, 4dc, [2dc in next st, 1dc, *2dc in next st, 3dc; rep from * three more times] four times, join with a sl st into the top of the st. – 103 sts

Hat Brim/Crochet Ribbing

Chain 25.
1: Working in back bumps, YO sl st in second ch from hook, YO sl st to end, (with right side facing) sl st in next 2 sts of foundation round, turn. – 24 sts.

2 (w/s): Miss 2 sl sts, 23sl sts BLO, 1sl st in both loops, turn.

3 (r/s): ch1, 24 YO sl st BLO, sl st in next 2 sts of foundation round, turn.

Rep Rows 2 & 3 to end, finishing with Row 2. 

With wrong side of brim facing out, join the beginning and end rows of ribbing with slip stitches. Or, if you prefer, sew the open ends together. 
Fold brim to reveal the right side of the pretty ribbing stitches.

Hmm, look at the pic above, is that join too messy? It makes me wonder if an additional round of UK dc/US sc could be added at the end of the granny rounds. Don’t you think it would look neater with a round in the same colour as the last round of clusters? Hindsight is a wonderful thing!

Aaannnyway, what do you think? I hope you enjoy working on lots of granny stripe hats. They are the perfect last minute gift for friends and family.

If the ads are stopping your from enjoying this pattern, don’t forget that you can purchase an ad-free version from Ravelry HERE, Or if Rav isn’t your bag, I have an Etsy shop HERE. The paid pattern is a bit more streamlined and includes a chart too. 25% off with the code GRANNYHAT until 31/12/2024

If you enjoyed this free crochet pattern, please feel free to peruse my free crochet patterns page. And if you are curious about exploring different crochet methods and techniques, check out some crochet tips and tricks HERE.

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Granny Santa Hat

Crochet Granny Santa Hat

Granny Santa Hat Pattern

Bless my sweet boy! It has been a few years since he modelled my Christmas Granny Santa Hat. He is much bigger than this now, in fact, he is taller than me and growing every day. However, I know that this Granny Santa hat still fits him as it’s a bit of a one size fits all hat.

Made from super chunky yarn, this hat is incredibly quick and easy to crochet. It’s not even Halloween yet, so you have plenty of time to crochet a Santa hat for everyone in the family this Christmas!

This is a crochet design from a few years ago and I thought it would be good to have as a festive freebie (scroll down to find the free pattern). However, you can also grab a copy of the PDF version, which also has a bonus pattern of matching crochet granny hat bunting!

The Crochet Christmas Collection

Not to confuse matters but I also created a collection of crochet patterns I thought were Christmassy, into one bundle. It’s the Christmas Crochet Collection and features: granny stitch baubles, cosy crochet slipper socks the aforementioned hat and bunting, as well as a C2C sweater with a subtle nod to Christmas.

The Christmas Crochet Collection is available to buy, or you can find the patterns for free in the following places:

Things you Need to Crochet a Granny Santa Hat

Granny Hat Pattern Notes:

  • All the pictures in this pattern are of the same chunky Christmas hat, it’s just different heads that it’s perched upon.
  • The hat is worked​ bottom up, starting with the front post/back post brim.
  • Finished​ ​size:​ When laid flat the length (excl pompom) is ​​approx 14 inches / 36cm. The diameter is approximately 9.5 inches / 24cm.
  • There is an option to finish the hat a few rounds early (that way, just one ball of red can be used). See Round 17.
  • Whilst tension isn’t too much of an issue for a hat like this, it will affect the amount of yarn you use.
  • The pattern is written in UK terms and has US equivalents in brackets (see abbreviations). However, it is pretty much all one stitch – the US double crochet. As long as you use that, you’re good to go.
  • When “cluster” is referred to in the pattern, this means a traditional 3 stitch granny cluster. (3tr for UK and 3dc for US).

Chunky Yarn for a Crochet Santa Hat

I used Stylecraft Life Super Chunky (100g/80m per ball). You will need one ball of the Cream and two balls of the colourway, Cardinal. If you need to be a bit more conservative with the amount of yarn you use, you could finish your hat a few rounds early and then you would only need one ball in Cardinal.

The bonus garland pattern within the PDF version came about because I had to break into the second ball of the red to finish the pointy bit of the hat. I had plenty of chunky yarn left over and didn’t want it to go to waste. So the result is the garland of mini crochet Santa hats!

Note that in the US a super chunky is often in the same category as super bulky.

Don’t Forget Your Other Crochet Tools:

  • 8mm crochet hook.
  • Large eye darning needle – something that will fit super chunky yarn.
  • Pompom maker for approx 8-9cm diameter pompom.
  • Scissors – you can’t break a bulky yarn with your hands unless you have some kind of magical Christmas spirit strength.

Crochet Pattern Abbreviations

Ch=​ ​chain, BPtr= back post treble (US BPdc), FPtr= front post treble (US FPdc)
Rep=​ ​repeat, St= ​stitch, ​​​Sl st=​ ​slip​ ​stitch, ​Tr= Treble crochet​ ​(US double).

Crochet Christmas granny stitch santa hat

Granny Santa Hat Pattern

With Cream, chain 54.
1: Working in back bumps of chain, 1tr in 4th ch from hook, 1tr along to end, join with a sl st to the top of ch3 to form a circle. [52 sts]
2-4: Ch3 (counts as a FPtr), *1BPtr, 1FPtr; rep from * around, finishing on BPtr, join with a sl st to top of ch3. Fasten off Cream.
5: Attach Cardinal to any st, ch3, 2tr in same st, miss 3 sts, *3tr cluster, miss 3 sts; rep from * around, join with a sl st to the top of ch3. [13 clusters]
6 -10: Ch3, 2tr in same sp, *3tr cluster in next sp; rep from * around, join with a sl st to the top of ch3. [13 clusters]
11: Ch2, 1tr in next sp (counts as a decrease), *3tr cluster in next sp; rep from * around, join with a sl st to the top of 1tr, sl st into next sp. 
12: Rep 6. [12 clusters]
13: Rep 11.
14: Rep 6. [11 clu]
15: Rep 11.
16: Rep 6. [10 clu]
17: Rep 11. (This is where I ran out of the first ball of Cardinal so, for a shorter, less pointy hat, fasten off here).
18: Rep 6. [8 clu]
19: Rep 11.
20: Rep 6. [7 clu]

Finishing Off Your Santa Hat

Fasten off by using the tail to weave between clusters. Pull tight to securely close. You might want to weave the yarn in and out a few times just to be sure it’s fastened off nice and firmly. Then, sew the bottom of the brim closed with a couple of stitches (see above). Sew in all other ends.

Make and trim a beautiful, big, fluffy pompom to attach to the top of the hat. The best way to attach it is to use the tie ends of the pompom.

Hey Presto!! You now have a fabulous granny stitch hat that would make Father Christmas very proud! What do you think? I quite fancy a green and white striped version. Maybe I will make one this year.

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All three of these photos are the same hat on different people. I think it gives you a good idea of the one-size-fits-all approach.

With thanks to my old pal, Paul Courtney who took most of these pics with his fancy camera. That’s him below, a Father Christmas in the making.

Ho ho ho!

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Mix & Match Crochet Cowl Patterns

A selection of Crochet Cowl Patterns

New Crochet Pattern Release!

I am a huge fan of crochet cowl patterns, so much so a few years ago, I wrote a blog post listing 10 of my favourite crochet cowls. This new set of Mix & Match Crochet Cowl Patterns isn’t included in that post because I have only just released them.

The idea for a set of mix and match stitch patterns (so that you can have a choice in the cowl you make) has been with me for a while. The seed was planted when I designed a striped cowl for an issue of Inside Crochet magazine (I can’t remember what issue, sorry!).

You may know this by now but some people just can’t leave things alone. They insist on tinkering, adjusting, tweaking and amending crochet patterns to suit them. I am one of those people! And I wanted to come up with a pattern that allowed for playing around with different crochet stitches, messing about with colours and combining them in lots of unique ways.

Mix & Match Crochet Cowl Pattern

You can find the pattern for the Mix & Match Crochet Cowl Pattern in my Ravelry store as well as my little Etsy shop. So far it is in UK terms only. Please let me know how keen you are on a version that has US terms because I can bump that job to the top of my list if there is interest.

Within the pattern, there are five different designs to make or, you can choose your own selection of stitch patterns to create your own unique crochet cowl pattern. Get 25% off with the code: MMCOWL

Stash Busting Crochet Cowl Patterns

A wonderful thing about crochet is the freedom to stash bust your favourite yarns. A crochet cowl is no different. And this one is perfect for chucking all your leftover yarn at. You don’t necessarily need a main colour but I find it’s good to balance out all of the other colours you choose.

These crochet cowl patterns are also ideal for yarn advent calendars. Grab that pretty bouquet of colourful minis and you will create the most beautiful crochet accessory your eyes have ever seen! Ooooh, I love it! It’s super exciting to think about all the combinations, isn’t it?

Crochet Cowl Patterns

Five Different Crochet Cowl Patterns in One!

As I have mentioned, the pattern has five different crochet patterns and you can pick one of those, or combine the stitches in a different way. It’s totally up to you.

The stitch patterns included are cute bobble stripes, an easy eyelet stitch and simple post stitch ribbing. Also stripes. Lots of stripes! I cannot get enough of them. The stitch multiples are provided so you can stick with those, or try something in between. Fun, hey?!

It was very hard to stop at just five patterns as the possibilities are vast and wide. So, to keep things simple, there’s a cosy small cowl, a large cowl that kinda doubles as a snood, and then something that is more akin to a crochet infinity scarf. Oh and because I can’t get enough of mohair, I used that in one of the patterns too. If you’re worried about using mohair yarn in your crochet projects, read some top tips here.

Take a look below at my “modelling”. It would seem, that a bit like Zoolander, I can only look one way.

Which Cowl Will You Make?

It’s hard to choose a favourite cowl, right? But if I had to, oh I’d make a new one that’s different to any of these. And I can because the pattern allows me to do that! Boom! I’ll just choose the size, grab some more yarn and see what happens.

What about you? Which crochet cowl pattern will you choose?

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A Discovery of Stitches Sampler Scarf

A Zeens and Roger design for the Curate Crochet Subscription box

A Discovery of Stitches from Curate Crochet

In the past I have confessed to not being a fan of subscription boxes. There are a number of reasons for this but the main two have always been, 1) I am paying for something and I don’t know what I’m going to get. 2) I’m locked in and can’t get out of the “deal”

Luckily for all of us, Curate Crochet Subscription boxes don’t involve either of these problems! Yay! And best of all, sometimes (certainly, this month anyway) the crochet designs that feature in the subscription box, have been designed by me!!

There is always such a super variation of designs in the Curate Crochet boxes, which means there are always new crochet ideas to try. Above, I mention the first problem I have with subscription boxes, which is you don’t know what you’re going to get until you’ve ordered. Here though, you get to see the crochet project before you buy. This month it is the Discovery of Stitches, a classic sampler scarf, and you have 7 days to order. The deadline to sign up for this sampler scarf box is the 7th of October!! Use the code Rosina5 to get £5 off your purchase.

Discovery of Stitches Subscription box

Crochet Sampler Scarf

Back in the early summer, Lindsey got in touch to ask if I would like to design the October subscription box for Curate Crochet. Not wanting to miss out on all the fun, I immediately said yes! The designs that feature are always pitch perfect and I was delighted that Lindsey wanted to ask me to be a guest designer.

I was given a brief, which included a beautiful mood board to guide me. (As a designer, I love a good brief and mood board. It makes it so much easier to know what path to go down). The main idea was that of a crochet sampler scarf; a few different crochet stitches all sitting happily alongside each other.

I chose some of my all-time favourite stitches, that way, I think you can see it’s “on brand” for my crochet style. The colours (a gorgeous variegated yarn) are completely Lindsey. Therefore, you have a lovely blend of both of our styles and that’s most definitely my favourite part of this project!

Sampler Scarf Stitches for Witches

Let’s talk a little bit more about the scarf itself (I don’t want to miss anything out!). So, I’ve mentioned that the Discovery of Stitches scarf includes some of my fave crochet stitches. It goes without saying that I absolutely had to include granny clusters. This is the direction I was steered and I was thrilled to explore how I could merge grannies with my other top stitches: the Houndstooth stitch and a lovely set of Ripples.

Bringing it to top tier, the ombre fringing is something to behold! It took a little bit of patience to order all the strands but it is oh so worth it. That was the fiddliest bit for sure. Doesn’t it look fantastic!?

The variegated yarn means much fewer ends to sew in because the colour changes come from the yarn itself. But I am afraid there are still more than just one or two to tidy away. A great trick is to just carry them with you as you crochet so you don’t need to snip so often. You can’t do this in all the sections but certainly, in the stripes, it makes life a little bit easier for sure.

Curate Crochet Subscription Box

Hopefully, this is a project that calls to you. The idea of marrying classic crochet stitches means you get lots of interest going on but nothing is ever head-scratching. The classic stitches are all fun and easy to work but Lindsey also puts together fabulous tutorials to accompany the written pattern.

If you are tempted by the Discovery of Stitches box for this month, don’t forget the £5 discount with the code Rosina5. Pop across to the Lottie & Albert website to find out more. Be quick though, remember you only have until the 7th of October.

The second point I made at the beginning of this post is also worth noting again, you don’t need to lock into any deals. If you only wanted this one box, that’s all you need to commit to. I love that idea! Plus, you get lots of other goodies too. I am particularly fond of the little kitty witch pin, she’s so cute! Just right for the season!

You may have guessed already but this post contains an affiliate link. That’s only because it’s my crochet design and I would love you to make your own cosy sampler scarf. I think this is a design that’s definitely a Treat rather than a Trick ;p

And just for good measure, I’ll include the link once more for the October Curate Crochet box HERE. Use the code Rosina5 for your discount. Cheers and Happy Halloween!

Large Granny Square with Circle Centre

Granny Square Tutorial

This large granny square pattern has been designed specifically for a larger crochet project I’ve been working on over the last year. Since last autumn or so, I have made enough granny squares for two double-bed sized crochet blankets, and this pattern is part of those colourful blankets.

I recorded a large granny square tutorial in the spring, and it has taken me until the late summer to edit it and put it together! Oh my goodness, such a long time. One reason for the delay was that I wanted to make sure I got the pattern right. The element that needed perfecting was the granny circle in the middle of the square because the first blanket had too many stitches. You can find out much, much more in Episode 104 of the Zeens and Roger Crochet Podcast as that video has a decent chat about the blankets I made. Therefore, if you’d like to know more, please do watch it (there are other granny projects in that episode too).

Watch the video tutorial above on how to make a large granny square with a circle centre, or go HERE to YouTube. For the written pattern, keep scrolling.

Crochet blanket. Large granny squares and cute little granny squares together.

Granny Squares to Make a Crochet Blanket

The photo above shows the first blanket I made at the beginning of this year. It’s a crochet blanket that I have been meaning to make for yeeeeeaaars. Back in 2011 (ish) I made one that was very similar, and over the years, I have been asked for the pattern quite a lot. I’ll have to dig out a photo to share in the next blog post (I’ll do that once blanket no.2 is complete).

The blankets all have the same thing in common; they have large and small squares laid out together in a “random formation”. The pattern for the large granny square is below. You can find the pattern for the cute little granny square HERE (plus the video tutorial too). When combined, you can make an awesome crochet blanket.

The best thing about making lots of squares and turning them into a blanket is that there is no rush. Make just a few every now and then, pick up and put down as and when the mood takes. Before you know it, everything has come together nicely at a super relaxing pace. Wonderful stuff.

Pattern for a large granny square

Things You Need to Crochet a Large Granny Square

For this pattern, you will need lots of DK yarn and a 4mm hook. This crochet pattern makes a 13 round square, that measures approximately 10 inches. Granny squares are, of course, the best stashbusters in the world, so gather up all your DK leftovers to make your own unique motifs for a one of a kind blanket.

It’s important to note that the written instructions here use UK terms. Anywhere you see “tr” or “treble” please remember that these are US double crochet stitches.

Below are some special stitches that you may not know. I assume that you know any other, more basic, abbreviations, but please leave a comment below if anything foxes you, and I will do my best to answer as soon as I can.

Special Crochet Stitches

To make a stonkingly good crochet square, there are a couple of techniques here that you may be new to, or perhaps not. But I will share them here as they are integral to the pattern. Please do not worry, they are not as hard as you might think and the video tutorial takes you through these crochet techniques step-by-step.

Beg tr2tog:

This is used at the beginning of Rnd 1 to work the first “petal”. It uses the same principle as a Stacked Start (have you seen my video tutorial for Alternatives to a Chain 3?).
Insert hook in circle, yrh and pull through, yrh and pull through both loops on hook (it helps to gently pinch the st at this point to make the next stage easier). Insert hook in left leg of the st and the loop behind it (the pinch helps the back loop to become looser and more visible), yrh and pull through, (2 loops on hook), yrh and insert hook into the circle, yrh and pull through (4 loops on hook), yrh and pull through 2 loops, yrh and pull through 3 loops. 

Standing tr start (sttr):

This is instead of starting rounds by using chains, it looks much tidier than a 3-chain and it’s fun to do! It’s perfect when changing colour at the beginning of rows. Yrh three times and hold loops on hook with forefinger, insert hook in ch-sp/st, yrh and pull through, [yrh and pull through 2 loops] twice. Let go of the yarn wrapped around your hook. First treble stitch made.

Standing dtr start (stdtr) = A US standing treble:

This is same principle as the sttr only for a taller stitch; you just wrap the yarn around your hook an extra time.
Yrh four times and hold loops on hook with forefinger, insert hook in ch-sp/st, yrh and pull through, [yrh and pull through 2 loops] three times.  Let go of the yarn wrapped around your hook. First dtr stitch made.

A cluster = 3 tr together in the same space.

The written pattern below assumes you will change colour every round. With Blanket No. 2 you will see that I don’t change colour every round for the granny squares. Watch the tutorial (towards the end) to see how that’s done as you have to use a couple of different techniques. Nothing crazy, I promise.

Top Tip!! Alternate the place where you join your yarn for each round. Join new yarn in the opposite corner to the join of the previous round. This avoids the dreaded granny twist! You can see this method doesn’t work quite so well if you are not changing colour.

Crochet Granny sqaure blanket in the making. Pattern for a Large granny square

Large Granny Square Pattern

Chain 5 and join with a sl st.
Rnd 1: 1Beg tr2tog, ch2, *tr2tog, 2ch: rep from * 6 more times, join with a sl st into the 1st 2ch-sp. Fasten off & cut yarn. Do not turn (here & throughout). [ 8 “petals”]

Rnd 2: Attach new yarn with 1sttr in any 2ch-sp, 2tr in same sp, 1ch, *3tr in next 2ch-sp, 1ch; rep from * 6 more times, join with a sl st into the top of the sttr. Fasten off & cut yarn.

Rnd 3: [this is a change from the video tutorial – you may hear me waffle at about 12/13 minutes re where I put my chains for Rnd 4 and this new way makes more sense – it amounts to the same amount of stitches and chain at the end] Attach new yarn with 1sttr in any 1ch-sp, (1tr, 1ch, 2tr) in same sp, *(2tr, 1ch, 2tr) in next 1ch-sp; rep from * 6 more times, join with a sl st into the top of the sttr. Fasten off & cut yarn.

Rnd 4: Attach new yarn with 1sttr in any 1ch-sp, 2tr in same sp, miss 2 sts, 3tr, *miss 2 tr, 3tr in next 1ch-sp, miss 2 sts, 3tr; rep from * around join with a sl st into the top of the sttr. Fasten off & cut yarn. [16 clusters]

Rnd 5: Attach new yarn with 1sttr in any sp between clusters, 2tr in same sp, *3tr in next sp; rep from * around, join with a sl st into the top of the sttr. Fasten off & cut yarn.

Rnd 6: Attach new yarn with 1stdtr in any sp, 2dtr in same sp, [3tr in next sp] three times, *(3dtr, 2ch, 3dtr) in next sp, [3tr in next sp] three times; rep from * two more times, 3dtr in first corner, 1htr join in top of stdtr [see the htr join at 22:30 of the video tutorial]. Fasten off & cut yarn.

Rnds 7 – 13: Attach new yarn with 1sttr in corner 2ch-sp, 2tr in same sp, [3tr in next sp] four times, *(3tr, 2ch, 3tr) in 2ch-sp, [3tr in next sp] four times; rep from *two more times, 3tr in corner ch-sp, 1htr join in top of sttr. Fasten off & cut yarn.

And that’s how to crochet a large granny square! Now, sew in all of your ends!!

How to Join Granny Squares

There are a few different ways to join granny squares and you can do so however you see fit. In the video tutorial for the little granny squares, I demonstrate how to Join As You Go but for the new crochet blankets I have chosen to sew them together using the mattress stitch, which is also known as the ladder stitch. I prefer the look and it gives me more control. But that’s a story for another day.

Obviously, you can use this pattern to create lots of crochet squares for your own projects. However, I will pop by very soon to put all the elements together so you can see how to crochet your own granny square blanket.

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