With the rise in popularity of using leftover scrap yarn, I thought it was the perfect time to revisit an old classic: the granny triangle shawl! You can’t go wrong with granny stripes worked into a crochet shawl pattern, so gather all your yarn leftovers; it’s time to work up a fabulous stash buster.
I designed my first crochet granny triangle shawl way back in 2016. I was relatively new to the world of crochet blogging and desperately wanted to put together a step-by-step photo tutorial. For 2025, I have made a few tweaks to make this granny triangle shawl even easier. Although, honestly, the old version isn’t hard at all.
I have tidied the edging of this new (very simple) crochet shawl, and that is the only change. Well, the yarns and colours here are a proper stash-busting scenario, whereas my original version had planned colour placement.
You could crochet your granny shawl in 4 ply, DK, or worsted, to name three different yarn weights. You could use the same colour of yarn throughout, or even self-striping yarn if you want to avoid sewing in all the ends.
This particular shawl measures 68.5 x 145 cm (27 X 57 inches) and uses approximately 225 grams of 4 ply/fingering/sock weight yarn. That’s roughly 1,012 yards/ just under 1,000 meters. For row 55, it’s about 10grams (40 – 45 metres), therefore, this would also be a great crochet pattern for using mini skeins.
Of course, you can make your shawl bigger or smaller. If you want a variation of the pattern, such as using a different yarn weight, the quantities and measurements will probably change. I really don’t think it matters too much for this crochet pattern. A granny triangle shawl can be made in whatever weight of yarn you like, with whatever hook size you like.
As I used 4 ply, I chose a 3.5mm crochet hook, which creates a pretty standard tension, so that there is a nice drape to the shawl.
Whether you’re using yarn stash in your favourite weight of yarn, or going to use all one colour from a special collection, it will likely work for this easy crochet project. But a granny triangle shawl does make the perfect stash busting crochet project, so let’s talk about that a bit more…
The Ultimate Yarn Stashbuster!!
Projects where you can just grab all your yarn leftovers are the best! We’re all a bit skint at the moment, but it doesn’t mean we have to go without. Making sure yarn scraps are used and loved in a new crochet project is perfect. Creating something special from not very much at all? We can achieve that in crochet!
There’s nothing to stop you changing colour halfway through a row, either. Use up every last bit!
You don’t have to use 4ply yarn, you can use whatever you have in your yarn stash. In fact, my original granny triangle shawl is DK (double knitting) weight yarn.
If changing to a different yarn weight, all you need to do is change the hook size you use to create the drape and tension that you like best. You could even mix up your yarn weights for something, perhaps a bit more bonkers, but at least it’ll be truly unique.
The beauty of stashbusting yarn leftovers is that you can create crazy colour palettes in yarn you wouldn’t ordinarily plan. It can seem scary to throw all the colours in one project, but if you’re willing to go with the flow, you could end up with your new favourite crochet accessory!
Granny Triangle Shawl Pattern
If you’d prefer to have an ad-free version of this pattern (US & UK terms available), it is available in my Ravelry store to purchase. Or, if Rav isn’t your thing, find the pattern in my Etsy shop.
The following pattern is written in US terms. (Having explored the type of instructions I share on the blog, I’m now leaning towards US instructions as they seem to be preferred by most readers. I’m happy to share both UK & US instructions, which I have done in the past, but I’d rather not confuse things. Let me know your thoughts! Thanks!!).
Materials to Crochet a Granny Triangle Shawl
As discussed in more detail above, you need approximately 225 grams of 4ply yarn and 3.5mm crochet hook. Feel free to use any yarn you like, mix it up, go wild!
Abbreviations (US Crochet terms)
beg = beginning, BLO = back loop only, ch = chain, ch-sp = chain space, clu = cluster (3dc in same sp), dc = double crochet, PM = place marker, R/S = right side, sc = single crochet, st(s) = stitch(es), sp(s) = space(s), sl st = slip stitch, rep = repeat, yrh = yarn round hook.
Row 1: Ch4 (counts as 1dc & 1ch), working into ring, 3dc, ch2, 3dc, ch1, 1dc, turn. – [1 st & 1 clu per side] Row 2: Ch4, 3dc in first ch-sp, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in next 2ch-sp, (3dc, ch1, 1dc) in last ch-sp, ch col, turn. – 1 st & 2 clu per side] Row 3: Ch4, 3dc in first ch-sp, 3dc in next sp between clu, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in 2ch-sp, 3dc in next sp, (3dc, ch1, 1dc) in last ch-sp, ch col, turn. – 1 st & 3 clu per side, increasing by 1 clu each row] Rows 4 – 55: Ch4, 3dc in first ch-sp, *3dc in next sp; rep from * to centre 2ch-sp, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in next 2ch-sp, *3dc in next sp; rep from * to last ch-sp, (3dc, ch1, 1dc) in last ch-sp, ch col, turn. – 1 st & 55 clu per side]
Easy Crochet Scallop Edging
To achieve the edging in the granny triangle shawl pattern, make sure you have an odd number of granny stripe rows. This way, your scallops will hit their mark in all the right places. Note: You can choose which is the right side to work on at this point
Row 1 (R/S): Ch1, *1dc in first ch-sp, 7dc in next ch-sp; rep from * to centre 2ch-sp, 9dc in centre 2ch-sp, *1dc in next ch-sp, 7dc in next ch-sp: rep from to last ch-sp, 1dc in last ch-sp, fasten off and do not turn. – [27 scallops per side + 1 in center] Row 2 (R/S): Working in the BLO, with right side facing you, join new yarn, ch1, *1sc in each dc st, sl st in dc; rep from * to last st, 1sc, fasten off and cut yarn. Sew in ends. You probably shouldn’t wait until the very end to sew in all ends. There are a lot!!! Sew in a couple every few rows to save yourself from the madness.
If you go wrong, it’s not the end of the world. My shawl has mistakes!! Watch my crochet podcast to see where I messed up!
And finally, this is a very simple granny triangle shawl, and one way to make it truly shine is to block it! It’s one extra step and so worth investing the time. Check out my blog all about blocking your crochet.
I Made a Crochet Granny Square Sweater & So Can You!
I’m going to write a little intro about my new crochet granny square sweater, but honestly, I’m too excited about it to make much sense! However, I will do my best to break everything down and provide as much information as possible, so that you can make your own colourful crochet sweater too.
Firstly, I must remember to give credit for the source of crafty inspiration. This crochet jumper, put together, block by block with happy little granny squares, has been inspired by theAriana Cardigan by Amy Christoffers. It’s a very popular pattern that combines knit & crochet stitches. Funnily enough, I was so intrigued by hybrid patterns for knitting and crochet that I’ve written a blog post about my favourite knitchet/croknit patterns.
Other makers have made jumper versions of the cardi, and they all looked so lovely (on the Rav project page), I was super enthused to make one of my own, in my own colours and actually, with my own granny square pattern.
If you want to make the Ariana cardigan, luckily for you, a pattern already exists and it’s free on Ravelry. What you’ll read here is more of a recipe for a jumper inspired by the original. Probably the only thing they have in common is that the granny squares are on the diagonal and the ribbing is knitted.
Whilst I downloaded the original Ariana cardigan and gave it a quick once over, I didn’t read or follow it for this sweater. Therefore, I don’t feel like it’s wrong to share what I did in recipe format.
The other reason for it being a recipe rather than a pattern for a crochet granny square sweater is that garments using granny squares are a nightmare to grade across different sizes. Blocks of squares aren’t fun to format into wearables, and like me, perhaps you can get a pretty good idea of how to make a granny jumper without a pattern.
Below, I share the charts I drew up for two sizes, both of which can be tweaked to make bespoke, unique crochet garments. I have also shared a few tips on ways to make adjustments to your crochet granny square sweater.
Step 1: Scroll down to charts and decide on large (64cm / 24inches wide) or small (48 cm / 19inches wide). Or make your own based on your measurements and the size of granny square you plan to use.
Step 2: For the large, dig out 700 grams /2000m /2120yds of DK stash in as many colours as you like, I recommend a minimum or 7 or so. The more colours you use, the more higgeldy piggeldy.
Step 3: With a 4mm hook (US G/6), crochet 54 squares and 15 triangles, working the final round with Join As You Go (JAYG) to join the sweater. Be careful at the sides and sleeves – use stitch markers to hold in place.
Step 4: With 4mm needles or hook, knit or crochet the ribbing.
Step 5: Sew in thousands of ends. I saved this until last in case I had to rip back any squares – eg to shorten verrry long sleeves. Actually, you can sew in the first 4 rounds of every single square and triangle before this stage….
What You Need to Make a Crochet Granny Square Sweater
I used double knit (DK) yarn for this patchwork crochet sweater, a 4mm hook and 4mm knitting needles. Tension is not a major issue, as this is a design that’s ideal for making it up as you go along.
Just because I used DK doesn’t mean that you have to. Technically, you can make this sweater in any yarn weight. It’s worth working up a few swatch squares in your preferred yarns to see if they work. You can also get a rough idea of how much yarn you’ll need by making a swatch or two. Don’t forget to add in enough for ribbing, too.
If you veer off from DK, you will likely need to think about the number of rounds per granny square. I’ll chat about my measurements in a sec, and that should inform you on sizing. If you’re thinking of working granny squares that are drastically different in size or yarn weight, you’ll end up with a crochet granny square sweater with different measurements. However, if you’re happy to draft your own charts, I fully support your experimentation by cheering from the side.
The Best Yarn for a Crochet Sweater
I think DK is perfect for a crochet sweater. If you go to heavier yarn weights, garments can start looking a bit clunky and heavy. Everyone is different, and we all have our own personal preferences, so at the end of the day, you can use your favourite weight of yarn. However, as garments go, DK is an awesome yarn weight. I love a lighter 4ply too, but for a crochet granny square sweater, 4ply yarn is more work as the squares would need to have more rounds to get them to the same size, and I kinda enjoyed this as the quick project that it was. Double-knit yarn is a good balance.
If you’re curious about different yarn weights and using something different, check out my blog post on Yarn Substitution.
The majority of my yarn stash here is wool I’d had for a number of years, which deserved to be part of a special crochet project. About five years ago, I treated myself to colourful skeins of merino from Folkestone Harbour Yarns. Then, to complement this collection, I matched it with rich brown shades from Loom Wool. It’s all gorgeous! I love that the browns are all slightly different; it adds a unique quality to my crochet sweater.
How Much Yarn Will You Need?
Make a granny square from a pattern that you’ll be using in your jumper (the one below, or other fave). If you’re being super diligent, wash and block it too. I’m not going to make you do this, but learning how to block crochet is useful for your garment-making endeavours. It determines final measurements (as well as other things), so it will help calculate sweater stats.
Weigh your square, and it will give you a fairly good idea of how much yarn you’ll need for the whole project. Multiply the weight of that one square by the final number of squares (don’t forget the triangles too). This is the total amount of yarn you’ll need.
Not gonna pretend I actually did this though. I just grabbed the lovely yarn stash I wanted to use up (and I am always going to have enough stash!). I think I used 10 colours plus the border colour. I made sure to have 4x 100 gram skeins of my joining colour, but there is plenty left.
The total weight of my finished jumper is just under 700 grams. I cannot recall the specific number, but I did weigh it especially for the YouTube video on making my crochet granny square jumper, so feel free to watch. I begrudgingly calculated yardage and meterage, too! Oof, from memory? Around 2000 metres/ 2120 yards.
The square that you make will also be useful to measure, so you can calculate the size of your sweater too (more on this below).
Cute Granny Square Pattern
There is only a slight change to the traditional granny square with this pattern, but it’s one I think makes a decent impact. The first round is eight dainty little petals rather than the standard four clusters. The following rounds are then just super simple granny clusters.
Find the granny square pattern here. The video tutorial that’s linked in that pattern is also useful to demonstrate the Join As You Go (JAYG) technique.
FYI, I have yet to determine how five rounds of this pattern compare to five rounds of a traditional granny square pattern. Just in case you assumed it was the same measurement. It might not be. *Shrugs*. Whatever the weather, these squares measure 16cm from corner point to corner point. As we’re working on the diagonal, this is the measurement you need.
The Granny Triangle Pattern
Because this crochet granny square sweater is worked with the squares on the diagonal, triangles are also required to straighten the bottom edges of the main body and sleeves. Find the free granny triangle pattern here.
For both the granny square and granny triangles, I worked four rounds of each, knowing I was going to work a 5th round as I crocheted JAYG. Oh, and it’s best to sew in your ends after Round 4 so you’re not left with a hideous job of sewing in yarn tails at the end. Like I was….
Granny Sweater Measurements
Having decided on a granny square pattern with five rounds in DK yarn, there were two choices: go for fitted or oversized.
I was slightly concerned that the smaller option would be too tight across my chest. Knowing the measurements of the squares, I think the smaller size would just about fit my body (99cm circ), but with very little “positive ease” – i.e. extra room. I dithered and doubted enough to opt for the oversized version. Charts for the oversized version I made and the smaller, fitted size that I’d like to make are both below.
The following measurements are taken after I washed and blocked my jumper.
Sweater Measurement Details
My oversized jumper is 4 diagonal squares wide. Remember that 16 = one square’s point to point measurement in cm. 4 x 16 is 64cm (approx 25 inches). Therefore, this is the width of my crochet granny square sweater.
The sweater length, including the waistband, should come in at 53/54cm after blocking. What with the weight of the yarn and the wear it’s had, the final length of my sweater is more like 57cm. I’m happy with that!
The final sleeve length (with cuff) is 44cm (approx 17.5 inches). These are shorter than I would ordinarily make. The drop shoulder construction, paired with the oversized width, means the sleeves start further down my arm. Originally, I hadn’t factored this into my plans as well as I’d thought. So the sleeves I initially made were clownishly long. Bum. Long story short, I ripped out a few squares at the sleeves. I had a terrible time doing this, but I made the effort to change them because I wanted to be satisfied (and happy) with the result. Sometimes it’s worth pushing through the difficult times!
The upper arm depth is 16cm; the measurement of one square on the diagonal. There’s a bit of stretch here, too. That’s OK.
It’s useful to note that should you wish to adjust the sleeve length or main body length by only a fraction, you can add or subtract ribbing rows. I think I went for 9 rounds of ribbing, but redid cuffs and only did 8 rounds the second time around.
Granny Sweater Chart – Square Layout
If I have done my counting correctly, for the size I made, I needed 54 granny squares and 15 triangles. On the chart above, I have shaded out sections along the top of the sleeves and sides for the “front”. These squares are already accounted for on the back section (they’re just folded round – watch the video at timestamp 34:00 to see what I mean).
The chart above was useful to work out the sweater schematic, but what I found even more useful was to lay it out how I actually intended to join the granny squares.
Take a look at the next image. When joining, I left the squares A to H to the end. These needed to be joined in two different places to bring everything together, going from a flat piece of crochet fabric into a 3-dimensional structure. For example, square B is joined (JAYG method) to the sleeve at both the green and blue sections.
Using plenty of stitch markers at this point is enormously helpful as well. I think I would have struggled without temporarily pre-joining squares before crocheting them together. Using stitch markers to pin everything together first allows you to see that you’re on the right track, showing that you haven’t accidentally joined a side of B to the main body instead of the sleeve. You can see how easy it might be to accidentally incorporate the side of E (pink line) into the B join, as it sits right next door!
I also chat about this in the granny sweater video from 31:04, Sometimes it is easier to see a visual of it.
The Smaller Granny Square Sweater Size
Yes, I do want to make a second crochet granny square sweater, and I would like a fitted version. The initial chart for this is drawn up below. I have reduced it by one block in the body and lengthened the sleeves. I have a reasonably good feeling that this will work. If I have to reduce the sleeve length back down, I will. I won’t mind too much! If you have short arms, stick to the shorter sleeve.
However, look at the neck and you’ll see it’s different. It’s deeper at the front, and I left a triangular space at the back of the neck. Ultimately, if I put that triangle back in, the neck space would be the same as the large size, but with more of the action at the front. This means a deeper V-neck and no shaping at the back neck. There’s room for playing around with this, I think.
The neck is surprisingly gapey before adding the ribbing; it would be suitable for several sizes. Play around with the number of ribbing rounds to make adjustments.
Potentially, a triangle could be added at the front to square off the neck into a kind of round neck. I mention this in the video, but watching it back, it just looks like I’m wearing the sweater back to front!
And where it says 49cm, ugh, it’s supposed to be 48. Oops.
Knitted Ribbing on a Crochet Sweater!!
I know!!? It’s crazy, I’m such a huge crochet fan, but I knew I was going to grab this opportunity to improve my knitting skills. From just the ribbing sections, I have learned loads! Not only did I remind myself how to pick up stitches, I also worked Magic Loop for the first time, and tried SSK for the V neck shaping.
For the 2×2 knitted ribbing, I use continental style knitting as it’s easier to switch between knit and purl stitches. It’s got to the point where I have forgotten how to purl in throwing style. Links for the tutorials I used are above, in the resources section.
Don’t get me wrong, I have a long way to go in my knitting journey. If you look closely, you’ll no doubt see that I’ve done a terrible job; regardless, I am thrilled!
Alternatively, there are absolutely loads of crochet ribbing stitches you can use too. You know I love crochet ribbing!!
Adjustments & Issues re “Winging It”
The sleeves! They were way too long for me in the beginning, and I had to make adjustments. If you’re unsure, think about the body width of the jumper. If you are aiming for oversized, take this into account as it will have an effect on sleeve length. Think about the total wrist-to-wrist measurement (up one arm, across the back, down the other arm). That’s the measurement you want to aim for. Not always easy to do.
If your upper arm circumference is larger than 30-32cm, you may wish to consider adding another row of squares at the sleeve to make them wider. This comes with added complications as the construction at the underarm will change. It’s not something I’ve looked at before. In my head, I’m thinking of an additional square to create shaping under the armpit?? Sorry, I don’t have a clear guide for that.
If this is too much of a headache or, indeed, creates deeper sleeves than you would like, this is the moment where you’ll want to question the measurement of a single square. The alternative is to add another round to all squares and triangles. This will deepen the arm depth but also increase the width and length of your final crochet granny square sweater. What would you go for?
Final Thoughts on Making a Crochet Granny Square Sweater
Oh, I have so many photos I could share, but we’d be here forever. It’s all the unpretty step-by-step progress shots that I’m not sure would be that useful. Things like before and after sleeve changes, such as the ones below. They’re reminders of learning and progress, which is good, I guess?
Oh go on then, let’s have a gallery of my new granny jumper!
What do you think? Has it raised more questions, or do you think this recipe will help you make your own crochet granny square sweater?
If you do have questions, please let me know in the comments section and I’l try to edit the post as and when I can.
I always start off thinking crocheting a garment in the “winging it” style will be fun and simple. Making the thing often is! In real terms, however, the writing up of the “recipe?” Goodness me, there are quite a few elements required, and there’ll always be something I’ve missed.
Let’s begin by explaining, briefly, what crochet pattern testing is and then going over it in a bit more detail. Also, I think it would be interesting to explore the subject from both the designer’s and tester’s perspectives, so that’s what I’m going to do! Hopefully, I have insight into both because I have tested a fair few crochet patterns over the years, and I am also a crochet designer.
In a nutshell, crochet pattern testing is checking to see if an unpublished crochet pattern works. A group of testers will follow a draft pattern while they each make the finished item. As they follow along, they make sure the pattern makes sense and produces a finished crochet item as the designer intended. They then provide feedback to the designer about the experience and provide polite, constructive criticism.
Let’s be clear from the start, pattern testing is not the same as technical editing! There should be no obligation to fine-tooth comb anything.
Crochet Pattern Testing Vs Tech Editing
On social media platforms, I often find myself reading discussions about crochet pattern testing. There are many honest opinions that are shared, and some folks seem to think that it should involve grammar checks, number checking (maths, stitch counts), pattern formatting, and more. Actually, this should have already been looked at by a technical editor before any tester gets their hands on an unpublished pattern draft.
Tech editing is a paid service carried out by an experienced, trained editor who is a whizz at number crunching and has a keen eye for detail. The advice they can offer is invaluable, and if you are a crochet designer, you should be using their services for nearly all of your patterns.
With that attention to detail, most errors and formatting styles will have been ironed out. It is not for the pattern tester to do any of this, but the odd thing escapes those eagle eyes, and an edit doesn’t show what a final product will look like when made by different hands.
Sadly, most independent designers don’t have a budget to pay for testing and they rely on the kindness of volunteer crocheters who are happy and willing to help.
Why Do We Need Crochet Pattern Testing?
Making sure crochet patterns are clear, succinct and do what they say they do is super important. We’re all human, and even a super amazing designer with awesome tech editing skills can miss a typo or two. Crochet pattern testing helps with that.
To test is to help out fellow crafters in the yarny community. Tests often have a community focus where there are chat groups for testers to convene, ask questions and share their making experiences. I’ve made many friends by taking part in these group chats. It’s also a great way to gain experience and improve crochet skills.
A good crochet pattern test should be mutually beneficial. A designer gets the chance to find out if their new pattern can be understood by real makers. A tester gets an exclusive glance at the design process. Whether they want to become designers themselves or just have the desire to support the work of a small creative business, it should be a positive experience.
The Dark Side of Crochet Pattern Testing
It would be remiss of me to ignore the negative side of pattern testing for crochet. This is kind of what made me want to write about it in the first place. Various online threads of debate discuss both the good and the bad. Obviously, I want to focus on the good bits, but there is a dark side to this topic too.
Both, testers and designers can be left with a bitter taste from a crappy pattern testing experience. I’ve learned that pattern testers can be greatly exploited and pushed beyond reasonable expectations. For example, there are demands for sharing multiple photos, Reels and Stories on social media to “market” a pattern on behalf of a designer. Whilst yes, it is a boon if this happens, a designer should never push this as an essential because it isn’t why patterns are tested.
I know from my own ventures into running testing groups that testers will join to take a pattern and disappear from the group. For me, the most stressful element about a new pattern is the testing phase. I worry constantly about whether everyone is OK. I had one experience last year that I never wish to repeat, where one by one, testers disappeared until it felt like I was talking to no one. It’s a long story that I can’t tell without name dropping a brand that’s much larger than my one-woman band… However, from that time, I also learned that some folks in the world have hearts of gold.
I’ll go over some of these thoughts in more detail throughout the post as well.
Communication is Key!
Unfortunately, as I’ve mentioned, pattern testing can lead to animosity on both sides; the best way to avoid this is to know exactly what to expect.
If in doubt, have the confidence to ask questions. It’s super important that both parties engage regularly and check-in.
As a tester, if you’re struggling, keep in touch to let the designer know there’ll be delays, or if you have to withdraw from the test don’t be afraid to say so. A decent, experienced designer will have factored this into the test and not be reliant on one person. But it is super helpful to let the designer know you can’t complete it, as crochet pattern testing can be an anxious time. It’s not an excuse for rudeness from anyone!
Designers need to be well prepared to update testers regularly. Answer questions promptly and don’t get offended if someone points out that things aren’t clear. This is the point of testing! Listen to what your testers are telling you. If they’re querying what could be an error, check it, don’t dismiss it.
Testing peeps, don’t make assumptions about a pattern, please don’t guess; this is the perfect opportunity to get the designer’s attention. Ask the questions; get clarification.
How Do You Become a Pattern Tester?
There are a few different ways to become a crochet pattern tester. I haven’t tried them all. Each way of finding a testing group will be different. You will find that each designer has a preferred approach.
Instagram – Designers will put out a call for testers by way of a post on the IG grid or on Stories. This is normally how I do it. I create a simple form/questionnaire on Google Drive. Interested crocheters can click on a link to accurately complete the form. This way, I can export all the data into a snazzy spreadsheet; it’s a neat way to keep track of everyone so no one gets missed.
Ravelry Testing Pool – I used this a few years ago with mixed results. There are rules in place, and people are vocal if you don’t follow those rules. That’s OK, there are other similar forums and being respectful is paramount.
Yarn Pond – This is a one-stop shop for pattern testing and testers. Yarnpond has been around a long time, too. I’ve not gone down this path. The website has loads of info, should you be intrigued.
Designers’ List – Many designers (I’m not one of them) keep a list of pattern testers who are keen to be contacted whenever that designer has a new pattern on the horizon. I like this idea very much. However, I feel uncomfortable directly asking individuals if they can take the time to test.
Facebook Groups – Crochet is BIG on Facebook, you are definitely spoilt for choice with all the different pages and posts. Search for testing groups to see if there is one that suits your style.
Requirements for Being a Crochet Tester
Again, for testing crochet patterns, requirements will vary depending on what the designer is looking for with their crochet pattern testers. Let’s break it down.
Crochet Skills Level/Experience
If you have never been a crochet pattern tester before, don’t let your perceived skill level put you off. It is in the designer’s best interest to choose a group of testers who represent all abilities because it’s a truer reflection of those who will want to buy the pattern.
Having said that, perhaps it’s not a good idea to sign up for an advanced and mega complicated sweater test if you have never made a garment before… Be realistic but don’t be put off either. Gen up with these Crochet Tips & Tricks.
Do You Have Time for Crochet Pattern Testing?
Don’t overcommit or overstretch yourself; it’s stressful, and testing should be fun. No one wants you to get anxiety from crochet pattern testing. If you have other commitments, think about the deadline. Is it achievable for you?
Confidence & Willingness to Partake
There are usually some social elements to pattern testing. Not always, but increasingly, tests take place in group chats so that testers can write/talk to one another, share ideas and ask questions about any issues. The designer should be present as much as possible to help answer any queries.
Likewise, there’s an element of independent crocheting as well. If you feel strongly that you can complete a test without needing your hand held throughout, then fabulous.
A Keen Eye & Attention to Detail
Whilst you should not be expected to tech edit during a pattern test, attention to detail is still an essential skill. The odd typo could still be lingering, or perhaps the designer has made a tweak since the tech edit that wasn’t updated correctly. These things happen, and pointing out errors is hugely appreciated. You’re not just helping the designer but all the makers that come after you.
Making Pattern Changes?
If there is something in the pattern you’re not keen on? Ask the designer if it’s OK to change it a little bit. It won’t always be possible, as the designer probably wants to know how the pattern will work up as written. But there will be occasions when it’s not such a big deal. Don’t be afraid to ask.
Providing Constructive Feedback
Being brief with your words at the feedback stage kind of defeats the point of testing. I mean, you don’t have to provide a huge tome of opinions; rather, a few overall thoughts about the pattern, plus measurements and yarn info, would be the bare minimum. If it’s a garment, the designer ideally needs a photo or two of it modelled so they can see if it is what they envisage.
You might be asked about your likes and dislikes about the pattern too. And any changes you made?
Good photography skills
Good photos aren’t just because a designer wants you to push your new FO on social media for pattern sales. Well, it shouldn’t be. Sure, it can be a perk, but good photos are crucial for two reasons.
One, they help other makers see what a garment looks like on all different bodies and show a maker various colour options.
Two, they help the designer see if the pattern looks right across all sizes. It is frustrating knowing someone has tested a pattern, said it’s fine, but the designer doesn’t actually know because they haven’t seen it. As a designer, I have asked for photos and sent reminders, but it’s a tricky one; I’m in no position to make demands for photos to be shared when it’s an unpaid gig.
Crochet designers definitely appreciate good photos shared on Ravelry, too.
Crochet Pattern Testing Tips for the Designer
By the time it’s at the testing stage, a lot of work has gone into a crochet pattern, sometimes months and months. Unless you can pay testers, that doesn’t really matter to anyone else, I’m afraid. You’re relying on the generosity and grace of your community. So the first tip is don’t take advantage, you do not have the upper hand. Even if you’re gifting free patterns as a form of payment, it doesn’t equate to hours of making, and you know it.
Be Clear With Test Info From the Beginning.
Collate as much info as possible before the test to share with anyone who may be interested. Provide information about sizing, gauge, yarn requirements, the lot. Be clear on yarn weights, does fibre content make a difference, or is it not an issue? Is it a secret test, or can makers share their excitement for their new WIP? When is the deadline?
Don’t forget to tell people which terminology you’re using, as you might sign up US testers who aren’t familiar with UK terms. I tend to add all of this at the top of the initial questionnaire I send out. People then know from the start what to expect.
Provided a Generous Deadline
Back in the old days, during crochet pattern testing, I would only give six weeks to make a whole cardigan! Oh dear, I thought six weeks was generous because I had managed to make a cardi in two weeks. It doesn’t mean everyone else can; people have other stuff going on in their lives. Larger sizes take more time, too. I had to learn to plan better.
A full garment with sleeves should probably be a minimum of ten weeks, ideally 12. Anticipate when that will be and plan your pattern launch around it. Think about when it’s seasonally appropriate so you’re not finishing a test for a woolly turtle neck jumper in the middle of summer.
Send a Finished Pattern
I have tested patterns that are supposed to have charts, and the chart isn’t ready. I have tested patterns, and the photos haven’t yet been added. Eek, it’s difficult, but if those things aren’t ready, your pattern isn’t ready to test. It isn’t fair to the maker if you’re not including everything.
Ensure the pattern is as close to how it’s supposed to look on publication. That’s only fair. And if it can’t be, please be clear and make sure folks are good with that.
Whilst we’re on the subject, I’m not a fan of sending a pattern section by section. Not only is it micromanaging more work for me, it also suggests there’s no trust involved. I don’t like that.
Be Open-Minded to Tester Feedback
It’s not always easy, but you need a thick skin to hear other people’s thoughts. I have been very lucky with my testing groups so far, and don’t recall any moment when I’ve felt hurt by any comments. Look at the bigger picture; feedback that is honest and constructive is invaluable, even if it’s worded bluntly. You will produce a better pattern if you listen to that feedback.
Do Not Charge Testers!!
This shouldn’t even be a discussion. Who are you to charge testers who can’t complete on time? I have seen discussions about charging for non-completion of a crochet pattern test. I don’t think this is fair. Luckily, I have never spoken to anyone who has experienced this, so maybe it’s a myth. Bet it isn’t, though.
And whilst we’re on the topic of ridiculous asks, an NDA for a pattern test? It’s a bit far-fetched, don’t you think?
Let The Ghosters Go
It’s not worth getting upset about the folks who ghost a pattern test. Oh, it stings for sure. I’ve been there many times, and as a result, I am learning to get over it. Just ensure you have chosen a couple more testers than you need. Ghosters aren’t your customers, so let it go.
Do You Need Testers Anymore?
This is an interesting one. With your tech-edited crochet pattern, does it even need to be tested!? There are some for and against arguments with this one. I still get anxious about my patterns and feel a lot more reassured when the more complex ones have been made by a lovely group of volunteers who have kindly given their time to crochet pattern testing.
However, the more experienced a designer becomes, the less of a need there is for testing. Apprehension has been nudged out of the way by acquired knowledge.
Crochet Pattern Testing: Final Thoughts
Hopefully, I have covered most elements of pattern testing for crochet. It’s quite a big topic when looking at it from both perspectives. But it is very important to explore this subject from the two angles because there is a lot of involvement from testers as well as designers
Ultimately, one of the key messages to take away from this is to remember that we’re all people doing what we love. Kindness comes from both directions in crochet pattern testing, and it makes me sad when I see folks on the internet arguing about it!
Whether you’re a tester or a designer, tell me about your crochet pattern testing experiences. Have I missed something crucial? Do you approach it from a different angle? Let me know in the comments.
Well, who knew that making a crochet hair scrunchie would turn into making two, three, four, five…?! These little stash busters are totally addictive! In truth, I’ve been making several scrunchies, adapting stitch counts as I go, to ensure the pattern has the perfect amount of ruffles. But even though this easy-peasy pattern has been perfected, it hasn’t stopped me from wanting more!
For speedy satisfaction, quick-fix crochet pattern ideas like these crochet hair bands are ideal when you don’t want to commit to a larger project. The free crochet pattern is below, eeek, I hope you like it!
If you’d like to know how to crochet around a hair tie, this is an easy project that you’ll enjoy making over and over again. I don’t need more, but I just can’t help imagining all the different colour combinations to try and all the different types of yarn that would look fabulous thrown together.
Stash Busting Hair Scrunchie: A Great Way to Use Yarn Scraps
The first iteration of the crochet hair scrunchie came about as I had leftovers from my Cirrus shawl. The crescent shawl uses two skeins of yarn: one lace-weight mohair and the other, a scrumptious DK boucle. There wasn’t much left of either as this shawl uses nearly all of both skeins. However, there were two walnut-sized balls leftover and therefore, ideal for a small crochet design. This version of the scrunchie doesn’t have as many stitches as the final pattern, so there weren’t enough ruffles for my liking. More ruffles, please!
Anyway, what can you do with little nuggets of yarn balls? All of those leftover yarn scraps? Tadah, crochet a ruffled hair scrunchie, of course!
No matter how many yarn scraps you have, you can throw them all into a design like this. The beauty of it is, is that you don’t need very much yarn at all. My heaviest crochet hair scrunchie uses just 15 grams of fingering-weight yarn. That’s only 60 metres!
What’s The Best Yarn For a Crochet Hair Scrunchie?
This design uses a lighter weight of yarn. It allows for more stitches and more ruffles without the bulk. You could change it up to a sport weight, perhaps even a double knit, but I think you’d have to reduce the number of stitches worked around the hair tie on the first round. This is possible to do, and it’s worth a try. However, do bear in mind that it could change the look of the scrunchie.
So, I recommend a fingering /sock weight yarn or 4ply, and when you’re feeling fancy, a lace weight mohair! You’ll need approximately 15 grams, which is 60 metres (66 yards) give or take.
For the most colourful crochet hair scrunchie, all of my smallest yarn scraps were gathered together. Anything from a couple of metres up to around 10 metres, these leftovers from other projects were all knotted together in a magic ball.
This technique is hard to describe in writing, however, I do have a video tutorial that demonstrates how to make a magic knot ball of yarn. It’s for another freebie pattern, but it’s the same knot tying that I used here. Watch from 1:08
I might also put together a quick Reel on Instagram to show you the steps on making a magic knot ball. I haven’t done it yet, wish me luck!
You don’t have to get yourself tied up in knots, though. I have made crochet hair scrunchies by only changing colour after a round or two. There is also nothing stopping you from making them all in one colour. Make them in all the colourful variations!
Using Mohair in Your Crochet Hair Scrunchie
Not everyone loves mohair yarn, but I do! I LOVE its fluffy warmth and delicate halo. I have amassed quite a lot of leftover mohair in my yarn stash, and it works perfectly for this crochet pattern. Actually, it’s not a badintroduction to using mohair yarn because it’s such a small project.
There are a couple of tips that make the experience even easier though. For the first round, where you crochet around the hair tie, use a non-fluffy fingering, sock or sport weight yarn. It’s not fiddly, whereas I think mohair would be for that round.
To make it even less fiddly, I don’t even bother working into the top of the mohair stitches but work in between them. That way, I can just shove the hook in between, and not so much precision is required. Have I ever mentioned that I am a supremely lazy crocheter?! Cutting corners can work sometimes… I didn’t do this for the fingering yarn hair tie though. You could if you wanted to.
Crochet Hair Scrunchie Pattern
Things You Need to Crochet a Hair Scrunchie
Please note that both US & UK patterns are below, make sure to choose the right one. You’ll need a 4mm crochet hook and some yarn scraps from your stash. Go for fingering /sock weight yarn or 4ply, or if you’re in the mood, a lace weight mohair. You’ll need approximately 15 grams, which is 60 metres (66 yards). For the mohair, I only used 11 grams.
And you’ll need a normal, everyday elastic hair tie. I have long hair, so loads are kicking about the house. I used them for this, but I do need to buy some more. You can get ones with bamboo in them, which is great.
Plan on changing colour? I usually just introduce the new colour on the last “yarn over” of the last stitch of a round. Then the new colour is then ready to go. Or use another favourite method of your choice.
Scrunchie Pattern US Terms
This pattern is written in US terms – scroll a bit further for the UK version. Rnd 1: 60sc around a hair tie, join with a sl st, do not turn. [60 sts] Rnd 2: Ch3 (counts as a stitch here & throughout), 1dc in same st, 2dc in each st around, join to the first st with a sl st, do not turn. [120 sts] Rnd 3: As Round 2. (240 sts) Rnd 4: Ch3, 1dc in same st, 1dc in next st, *2dc in next st, 1dc in next; rep from * around, join with a sl st, do not turn. [360 sts]
You can fasten off here or change to a contrasting colour or contrasting texture of yarn, perhaps a thicker mohair or boucle yarn.
Rnd 5: Ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch), sc in first st, ch1, miss a st, *sc in next st, ch1, miss a st; rep from * around, join to first st with a sl st. Fasten off and sew in ends (On my next scrunchie, I plan on adding 2 chains between each single crochet to see what that looks like. I think it’ll create a really nice finish.)
Scrunchie Pattern UK Terms
This pattern is written in UK terms – scroll up for the US version. Rnd 1: 60dc around a hair tie, join with a sl st, do not turn. [60 sts] Rnd 2: Ch3 (counts as a stitch here & throughout), 1tr in same st, 2tr in each st around, join to the first st with a sl st, do not turn. [120 sts] Rnd 3: As Round 2. (240 sts) Rnd 4: Ch3, 1tr in same st, 1tr in next st, *2tr in next st, 1tr in next; rep from * around, join with a sl st. [360 sts]
You can fasten off here or change to a contrasting colour or contrasting texture yarn, perhaps a thicker mohair or boucle yarn.
Rnd 5: Ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch), dc in first st, ch1, miss a st, *dc in next st, ch1, miss a st; rep from * around, join to first st with a sl st. Fasten off and sew in ends. (On my next scrunchie, I plan on adding 2 chains between each double crochet to see what that looks like. I think it’ll create a really nice finish.)
Isn’t that a great pattern for crocheting from stash?! I ruddy love a crochet pattern that uses up scrap yarn!
If you make your crochet hair scrunchie, please let me know. You could add them to your project page on Ravelry too, that way I get to see what you’ve made!
There is no simpler edging for a granny square blanket than this crochet bobble border. It is super easy to do and very quick to crochet. You can use this simple crochet edging in lots of different ways, too. In addition to blankets, it works well for crochet accessories too (I’ve used it for shawl edgings, for example).
For a while, I have been building up to writing up the crochet pattern for my granny square blanket (with its easy bobble border!). It is still not 100% complete. Over the last year or so, I have put together all the video tutorials and separate blog posts that, collectively, will be the resources you need to make your own version of the colourful crochet blanket.
It has actually been much longer than a year in the making. The picture above was taken many years ago. It’s a granny square blanket that I made for one of my sisters. I remember buying the yarn from a beautiful little yarn shop on the Isle of Wight. My eldest son was two years old at the time. He is about to turn sixteen, which tells you how long ago the idea was born!
I’ve tweaked the pattern a little bit since then; the granny squares are slightly different and I’ve played around with the colour combinations. Fundamentally though, it’s still the same crochet blanket.
Video Resources for a Crochet Blanket
There are a couple of final jobs before the blanket pattern is fully complete. I haven’t yet calculated yarn amounts needed and I need to remember all the colours I used. Listing yarn brands isn’t difficult but it does require some time to sit down at the computer. Especially as it would be nice to collate everything into a PDF too. It takes longer than you might expect!
Before I get to that final stage, here is what is available so far….
A fun place to start is my crochet podcast. In episode 104 I blithely chat about the blanket enough for you to get an idea of what it’s all about.
Then, for the “how to” vids, here is a video tutorial for the cute little granny squares. You’ll see what else I have used them for (aren’t granny squares versatile?!). I also demonstrate a Join As You Go Technique in the video tutorial for these squares, which is a great alternative for joining granny squares but I chose to join the blanket squares using the mattress stitch (see below).
To accompany the smallies, we have the large granny square with a circle centre. The video shows you how to change colour if you want new colours every round. It then continues to show you how to work the granny squares if you’d rather not change colour. Theses are useful techniques to have in your crochet repetoire.
Use the Mattress Stitch to join your granny squares. It creates such a professional finish. I know JAYG is awesome and speedy but I promise that the mattress stitch is worth the effort.
Crochet Bobble Edge Video Tutorial
The latest video tutorial to join the granny blanket resources is my new crochet bobble border video. It’s such a simple crochet border and it’s really fun to work up. It must be fun as I regularly choose to add this to blankets and crochet accessories.
For example, check out the bobble border on my Cirrus shawl too. It looks utterly fab in boucle yarn!
Anyway, if you’re a fan of a written crochet pattern, and/or want to use it as well as the video on my YouTube channel, read on…..
Written Pattern for a Crochet Bobble Border
Bobble Border Notes Etc
The crochet bobble border uses a stitch multiple of 4.
Use whatever yarn and hook size you like to create your crochet bobble border. I used DK yarn with a 4mm hook.
You can work this into a round of US double crochet stitches, hdc or sc stitches, it’ll look great worked into any of them.
Work the crochet bobble border on the wrong side of your crochet project.
For my granny blanket, this final round is worked into a round of US dc stitches (UK tr stitches).
Also note, life is too short for accuracy with this border. When it comes to adding it to a large crochet blanket, I refuse to count all of those stitches to check if I have the correct amount of multiples. Just fudge it! You won’t get sent to crochet prison.
Before you begin, here is how to work a Bobble Stitch: [yrh, insert hook into st, yrh, pull through, yrh, pull through 2 loops] five times in same st, yrh, pull through all 6 loops.
TLDR Version -Universal Crochet Terms (Works for Both US & UK!)
Round 1: Working on the wrong side, join yarn to any stitch, *3 sl st, 1 bobble; rep from * around, join with a sl st to the first st. Cut yarn and fasten off. Done
Do you want the longer version for this granny blanket? Oh, go on then…
Full Granny Blanket Border
This is for when you have finished joining all your granny squares together, making one big crochet blanket, and you’re ready to add a full border. I mentioned in the video tutorial that you can add as many rounds of granny clusters as your yarn stash will allow.
Note that I have written “ch3” to start the rounds. However, should you wish to use an alternative technique that looks waaay better, take a look at this video on alternative ways to chain 3. I demonstrate both in the edging tutorial. Or, rewatch the large granny tutorial so that you can see the alternative ways in more context. This latter video helps with how to change colour for crochet rounds too.
Where two granny squares meet, we add a little twist to the standard granny cluster. This is to ensure the blanket edges remain nice and straight. You don’t want to create too much fabric by adding extra clusters or you’ll end up with a kinky granny.
Take a look at the picture above, it shows two corners of granny squares sitting side by side (blue & orange). Rather than each of them having its own cluster in their respective corners, we work one makeshift cluster across them both. (in US terms) you work 1dc in the first corner, then dc2tog (a decrease) across both corners, ending with 1dc in the second corner = (1dc, dc2tog, 1dc).
Granny Bobble Border Pattern
Round 1 (US terms): Join yarn to any space between granny clusters, ch3, 2dc in same space, *3dc in next space between clusters; rep from * to next two granny square corners, 1dc in first granny corner, dc2tog across the first and 2nd granny corners, 1dc in 2nd granny corner, continue in pattern to corner, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in 2ch-sp, continue in pattern around, join with a sl st to the top of the first st, do not turn.
Rnds 2 – whatever number you like: Ch3, 2dc in same space, *3dc in next space between clusters; rep from * to corner, (3dc, 2ch, 3dc) in corner, rep from * to next corner and continue in pattern around, join with a sl st to the top of the first st, do not turn.
Next Rnd: Ch3, dc to first corner, 5dc in corner 2ch-sp, continue in pattern around, join with sl st to first st, turn.
Last Round (Bobble edging worked on wrong side): *3sl st, 1 bobble st; rep from * around, join with sl st to first st, fasten off & cut yarn.
If you have enjoyed this free crochet pattern, please take a look around my blog for some excellent crochet tips & tricks, which I really enjoy putting together, plus find more free crochet patterns here.
Last year I worked with Lindsey from Curate Curate (aka Lottie & Albert!) to design this fun crochet sampler scarf. The idea behind the scarf was to introduce a few classic crochet stitches but mix them up in an interesting and unique way.
The good news is that I have released the crochet pattern and you can buy a copy from Ravelry or, if you prefer, my Etsy shop. If you purchase within the first few weeks of release, enjoy 25% off with the code DISCO25.
This colourful crochet sampler scarf pattern comes in both UK & US terms and has lots of supporting photographs and charts.
A Discovery of Stitches Scarf
You can read more about the original Discovery of Stitches scarf here. For this new version, I wanted to have a scarf that had a few more colours and also incorporate some yarn stash busting. The Disco Stitches crochet sampler scarf is an excellent way to use up leftover yarn scraps!
But for those of you who are not interested in stash busting, I also opted for two new yarns to work with and you can enjoy a colour-changing yarn so that you don’t have to think about what colours to choose.
Crochet Sampler Scarf Construction
The Disco Stitches crochet sampler scarf is made in two identical pieces that are then sewn together in the middle. I have noticed that many crocheters are turned off by sewing so this scarf has no sewing in the actual making of the pieces.
Two strips are made in the same way, but the colours are swapped around for the second piece. This ensures that the same amount of yarn is used in both pieces and there are little to no leftovers.
Each stitch section builds on the next. The stitches are nice and easy and it is a very mindful crochet make. Yippee!
What Yarn Do You Need?
In the greeny blue version I used a colour changing DK yarn called Hayfield Spirit (in the colour way, Meadow) paired with Stylecraft Life DK, in Parchment. My favourite version of the crochet sampler scarf is the stash busting scarf. For that one, I mostly used Yarnsmiths 100% Merino DK yarn. Although, there is a possibility that one or two of the contrast shades are a different brand. However, I’m sure you can substitute with many other yarn brands.
You can find out more about yarn substitution here. You don’t have to use the yarn I did. Use what you have and you’ll end with your own cracking crochet project.
Fringe Or Tassels for a Scarf?
You can also choose whether to add fringe or tassels to your crochet sampler scarf. You may know by now that I love to provide different options in my patterns and this design is no exception.
I loved putting together the ombre fringe for the colour-changing scarf. It was really calming and mindful to sort through my yarn strands and create a gentle spectrum of blues and greens. I used every bit of that 100g ball of Meadow in the scarf. No wastage!!
But I was also really curious to see what the scarf would look like with a cute bundle of tassels! I wish I had added more tassels but I didn’t have enough of the neutral shade left. Oops. That sometimes happens with stash busting (but fear not, I have calculated what you need of the main colour in the pattern).
Support to Help You and Your Crochet Sampler Scarf
Not only are there lots of new crochet charts and photos to support you when you make this crochet sampler scarf, the Disco stitches sampler is also supported by a few video tutorials too.
You’ll find that I have also used video tutorials for slightly different patterns where the techniques used are the same. For example, the way I join my granny squares rounds is demonstrated in a video for a granny square blanket.
The mattress stitch is also used in the crochet sampler scarf (only once, don’t worry) and I have a video tutorial to show you exactly how to work that sewing stitch. It’s in a video for joining granny squares rather than two scarf pieces but it’s the same method. But here is how I see it, everything in crochet is super versatile and I employ the same excellent techniques again and again in my patterns. Why would I not?!
Although today is a lovely sunny day and I can feel that spring is on the way, there is still plenty of scarf-wearing weather ahead of us. So feel free to pop over to my Ravelry store and get a copy of the crochet scarf pattern! If you’re not a Ravelry user, you can also find the crochet pattern in Etsy.
You can also find more of my crochet patterns in those places or check out my free crochet patterns page. Ta very much! x
I LOVE the crochet Houndstooth Stitch and doesn’t it look great in a scarf?!! It is an all-time favourite that deserves to be visited on a regular basis. In fact, one day I should write a love letter to it, it’s that good. And by love letter, I mean a blog post of its very own, a dedication to my love of the Houndstooth stitch!
It is such a simple crochet stitch pattern; just two basic little stitches. When you introduce two colours, on top of each other in tidy rows, a little bit of magic happens. It’s so pretty! US single and double crochets (AKA UK double and treble crochets) sit together in pairs to replicate the classic textile of the same name.
Depending on which side you look at the fabric, one colour will dominate and that’s one of the things that makes it such a delight.
This crochet houndstooth stitch scarf pattern is part of a set that’s not yet released. Together, they will be henceforth known as Barking Mad. I am not sharing it all today. I am saving the rest for a later date. On the horizon are a couple of other accessories that will join this awesome crochet scarf pattern.
I made the Barking Mad scarf a few weeks ago but have not had the time to show it off. Instagram tells me that I was working on it in November 2024! Feels like ages ago!
Due to a busy December and a surprisingly busy January too, I haven’t been able to publish it. I am still struggling for time so the rest of the Barking Mad set will be released in a few weeks. Probably to coincide with the weather getting nicer, typical!
Houndstooth Crochet Scarf – The Yarn.
To make your own easy crochet houndstooth stitch scarf, you need two colours of yarn. To make it extra special, I introduced a lace-weight mohair yarn to hold with two indie-dyed skeins of sock-weight yarn.
This weekend is the Unravel Yarn Festivalin Farnham and funnily enough, I purchased both of the main yarns at the festival. Each skein weighs 100 grams. The beautiful blue is a yarn I bought from Spectrum Fibre at Unravel in 2019. The label tells me it is a Twisted Sock (love a high twist yarn!!) called Little Blue Dress. Then, I went again last year and bought a skein from Bona Yarns called Mostisky. I think that’s the name. That one isn’t a high twist but when paired with the mohair, you can’t tell that they are a different yarn base.
In stash, I had mohair to closely match both shades. Seeing as mohair normally comes in 25 gram balls, I needed two balls of each colour (typically, for every 50g of sock or fingering weight yarn, you need 25g of lace-weight mohair. Most of the time I use Drops Kid Silk mohair as it is reasonably priced.
If you have never used fluffy yarn to crochet with, read my top tips for using mohair here. It is one of my favourite things to do to achieve beautiful crochet makes.
You do not have to use mohair with your chosen yarn. This Houndstooth stitch scarf will look fabulous in most yarns. I think a Merino DK yarn would be awesome and I want to make one soon. Just make sure you use the appropriate sized hook for the yarn you choose. (For a DK, that would most likely be a 4mm crochet hook).
Special Crochet Stitches
There are a couple of things that you will find useful when following the scarf pattern. Here are some special crochet stitches that I use.
Stacked Start (SSt) – How to Start the Crochet Rows:
This is instead of starting rows by chaining, it avoids that pesky hole at the ends of the fabric. So much better than chaining 3! Here is how to crochet a Stacked Start: Insert hook in first st, yarn over [yo] and pull through, yo and pull through both loops on hook (it helps to gently pinch the st at this point to make the next stage easier), *insert hook in left leg of the st (the pinch helps the back loop to become looser and more visible), yo and pull through, yo and pull through both loops; rep one more time from *. Watch this crochet video for a Stacked Start (time stamp 5:12). Note that for this houndstooth stitch scarf I did not bother working in the loop behind.
US dc3tog / UK Tr3tog (a decrease):
Yo hook, insert hook into first st, yo & pull through (3 loops on hook), yo, pull through 2 loops, yo, insert into next st, yo & pull through (4 loops on hook), yo, pull through 2 loops (3 loops on hook), yo, insert into next st, yo & pull through 2 loops, yo and pull through all loops.
(Stacked) Beg of Row US dc3tog / UK tr3tog:
Insert hook in first st, yo and pull through, yo and pull through both loops on hook (it helps to gently pinch the st at this point to make the next stage easier), insert hook in left leg of the st and the loop behind it (the pinch helps the back loop to become looser and more visible), yo and pull through (2 loops on hook), yo and insert hook into next st, yo and pull through (4 loops on hook), yo and pull through 2 loops (3 loops on hook), yo and insert hook in next st, yo and pull through (5 loops on hook), yo and pull through 2 loops (4 loops on hook), yo and pull through all loops.
This decrease to start rows is demonstrated in the same video as linked above. Watch from 9:40.
Barking Mad Houndstooth Stitch Scarf Pattern
Oky poky, you want to crochet this easy peasy crochet scarf? If, like me, you are using two pretty coloured sock-weight yarns held with mohair, reach for a 3.75mm hook.
Note that it is a lot easier to use a couple of stitch markers at the beginning and end of rows. Move them up each row. I often don’t bother with them but here, I found the decrease stitches a bit tricksy to see so a stitch marker identifies exactly where the first and last stitches of a row are. PM means place marker. MM means move marker.
Also, note that you want to carry the yarn so you don’t have to sew in loads of ends. What that means is you crochet over the non-working yarn as you go. Gently give it a little tug every now and then so it’s not too loose. But don’t pull so tight that it scrunches up your scarf. Keep the tension even.
To change colour, pull it through on the last yarn over of the previous row. Then you are ready to start the next row with the new colour.
Houndstooth Scarf Pattern
As the instructions are quite brief, below are separate patterns for US and UK crochet terminology. I assume you know the more standard terms. Special stitches are above, you have scrolled past them….
Crochet Scarf Pattern US terms
With YA, make a magic ring or ch3 and join with sl st. Row 1: (1SSt, 2dc) into the ring, turn. – [3 sts] 2: (1SSt, 2dc) in first st, 1dc in next st, 3dc in last st, turn. – [7 sts] 3: With YB, (1SSt, 2dc) in first st, 1sc in next st, *1dc, 1sc; rep from * to last st, 3dc in last st, turn. – [11 sts] 4: With YA, (1SSt, 1dc, 1sc) in first st, 1dc in next st, *1sc, 1dc; rep from * to last st, (1sc, 2dc) in last st, turn. – [15 sts] 5- 15: Rep Rows 3 & 4 ending with Row 3. – [59 sts] 16: With YA, (1SSt, 1dc, 1sc) in first st, 1dc in next st, *1sc, 1dc; rep from * to last 3 sts, dc3tog, turn. 17: With YB, Beg of Row dc3tog, PM, 1sc in next st, *1dc, 1sc; rep from * to last st, 3dc, turn. 18- 128: Rep Rows 16 & 17, ending with Row 16. – [59 sts] 129: With YB, Beg of Row dc3tog, PM, 1sc in next st, *1dc, 1sc; rep from * to last 3 sts, dc3tog, turn. – 55 sts. 130: With YA, Beg of Row dc3tog, PM, 1dc in next st, *1sc, 1dc; rep from * to last 3 sts, dc3tog, turn – [51 sts]. 131 – 141: Rep Rows 129 & 130, ending with Row 129 – [7 sts] 142: With YA, Beg of Row dc3tog, – [3sts] 143: Beg of Row dc3tog. Fasten off and cut yarn.
Crochet Scarf Pattern UK terms
With YA, make a magic ring or ch3 and join with sl st. Row 1: (1SSt, 2tr) into the ring, turn. – [3 sts] 2: (1SSt, 2tr) in first st, 1 tr in next st, 3tr in last st, turn. – [7 sts] 3: With YB, (1SSt, 2tr) in first st, 1dc in next st, *1tr, 1dc; rep from * to last st, 3tr in last st, turn. – [11 sts] 4: With YA, (1SSt, 1tr, 1dc) in first st, 1tr in next st, *1dc, 1tr; rep from * to last st, (1dc, 2tr) in last st, turn. – [15 sts] 5- 15: Rep Rows 3 & 4 ending with Row 3. – [59 sts] 16: With YA, (1SSt, 1tr, 1dc) in first st, 1tr in next st, *1dc, 1tr; rep from * to last 3 sts, tr3tog, turn. 17: With YB, Beg of Row tr3tog, PM, 1dc in next st, *1tr, 1dc; rep from * to last st, 3tr, turn. 18- 128: Rep Rows 16 & 17, ending with Row 16. – [59 sts] 129: With YB, Beg of Row tr3tog, PM, 1dc in next st, *1tr, 1dc; rep from * to last 3 sts, tr3tog, turn. – 55 sts. 130: With YA, Beg of Row tr3tog, PM, 1tr in next st, *1dc, 1tr; rep from * to last 3 sts, tr3tog, turn – [51 sts]. 131 – 141: Rep Rows 129 & 130, ending with Row 129 – [7 sts] 142: With YA, Beg of Row tr3tog, – [3sts] 143: Beg of Row tr3tog. Fasten off and cut yarn.
Blocking Your Crochet
I think blocking your crochet is important and adds extra impact. It neatens up the fabric and sets the stitches. All I did to block this scarf was to pin it out on the blocking mats and run a bit of steam over the top of it. Once it was dry, the drape was immense!
Eh, a houndstooth stitch scarf may not require the attention of blocking but I do think it is worth the extra effort to ensure you get the best out of your crochet.
Keep scrolling for a sneak peek at one of the other Barking Mad accessories.
And that’s it! What do you think? I really hope you like this crochet houndstooth stitch scarf as I think it’s an absolute doozy!! And if you like my crochet work, have you checked out my other free crochet patterns?
I get very cold and hurty ears at this time of year and so, to combat the chill, I have made myself some easy crochet earmuffs! This pattern is a very quick make and was inspired by my recent free crochet pattern for a granny stripe hat. It uses exactly the same pattern to begin.
Just before I cancelled Amazon Prime a couple of weeks ago, I hastily bought a couple of cheap pairs of fluffy earmuffs as I knew they’d be great for satisfying my urge for this quick-fix crochet project. This earmuffs pattern is also a great yarn stashbuster (I do love a stash buster!).
The only problem I have had so far is getting my choice of yarn colours right. I have been torn between all the possible combinations. It is so difficult to choose favourites sometimes! However, I had to draw a line in the sand and just make them. But, the nature of this design, is that you can make several pairs and swap them over depending on your mood. A crochet win!
Crochet Earmuffs Free Pattern
What Yarn? What Crochet Hook? What Else Do I Need?
Right, to make your own crochet earmuffs, you only need a few scraps of double-knit yarn. I used a 3.75mm hook rather than the usual 4mm I use for dk yarn as you want to make sure the stitches aren’t too loose.
I have loads of dk yarn in my stash; lots of little balls to use up. In this case, the yarn could be any brand, it’s a mix of all sorts. But generally speaking, I prefer to use merino yarn or an acrylic merino blend. For a speedy crochet pattern such as this, it doesn’t really matter.
You will need some shop-bought earmuffs. The ones I bought were sold in two-packs and under a tenner for both pairs. They fit me, an arguably grown-up woman with an average-sized head.
You will also need two 30cm / 12-inch lengths of thin elastic, two circles of fabric measuring around 20cm / 8 inches, and a darning needle.
Now, if you want to be really precise, you should also get some elastic to gather the fabric too but I didn’t have enough elastic left for that. It would be neater and easier if you did…
Crochet Video Tutorials
The written crochet pattern for earmuffs is below but check out this video for How to crochet a large granny square. Watch from 2:25 to see me demonstrate the first few rounds. Whilst it’s for a different thing, both projects start the same way. Round 3 is ever so slightly different in the tutorial but it achieves the same result. You actually hear me dither about changing how I’m going to do that round in the video!
UK Crochet Abbreviations
Please don’t be put off by the UK terminology. We’re talking granny stitch here and you all know that that’s a trio of US double crochet stitches. Whenever you see me write “treble”, it’s a US double. Everything else is the same.
Beg tr2tog: This is used at the beginning of Rnd 1 to work the first “petal”. It uses the same principle as a Stacked start. See the video for the large granny square tutorial linked above.
Insert hook in circle, yrh and pull through, yrh and pull through both loops on hook (it helps to gently pinch the st at this point to make the next stage easier), insert hook in left leg of the st and the loop behind it (the pinch helps the back loop to become looser and more visible), yrh and pull through, (2 loops on hook), yrh and insert hook into the circle, yrh and pull through (4 loops on hook), yrh and pull through 2 loops, yrh and pull through 3 loops.
Standing tr start (sttr): This is instead of starting rounds by chaining 3, it looks much tidier than a 3-chain and it’s fun to do! This method is perfect when changing colour at the beginning of rows/rounds:
Yrh three times and hold loops on hook with forefinger, insert hook in sp/st, yrh and pull through, [yrh and pull through 2 loops] twice. Let go of the yarn wrapped around your hook. First treble stitch made.
Pattern for Crochet Earmuffs
Feel free to chain 5 and join with a sl st (you’ll see this shown in the video tutorial linked in Special Stitches above). But, I think using a Magic Circle is valid here. Better, in fact. Start however you like though!
UK Terms Rnd 1: 1Beg tr2tog, ch2, *tr2tog, 2ch: rep from * 6 more times, join with a sl st into the 1st 2ch-sp. Fasten off & cut yarn. – 8 “petals”
2: Attach new yarn with 1sttr in any 2ch-sp, 2tr in same sp, 1ch, *3tr in next 2ch-sp, 1ch; rep from * 6 more times, join with a sl st into the top of the sttr. Fasten off & cut yarn.
3 (Inc): Attach new yarn with 1sttr in any 1ch-sp, (1tr, 1ch, 2tr) in same sp, *(2tr, 1ch, 2tr) in next 1ch-sp; rep from * 6 more times, join with a sl st into the top of the sttr. Fasten off & cut yarn.
4: Attach new yarn with 1sttr in any 1ch-sp, 2tr in same sp, miss 2 sts, 3tr, *miss 2 tr, 3tr in next 1ch-sp, miss 2 sts, 3tr; rep from * around join with a sl st into the top of the sttr. Fasten off & cut yarn. -16 clu
5 & 6: Attach new yarn with 1sttr in any sp between clusters, 2tr in same sp, *3tr in next sp; rep from * around join with a sl st into the top of the sttr. Fasten off, cut yarn and sew in ends.
Ok, now for the fun bit…
Turn Crochet Granny Circles into Earmuffs!
So, you can leave a long tail and use that to gather and secure the crochet to the ear muff. But it’s then more permanently fitted. If you add a little bit of elastic around the outer edge of the crochet circle and tie it closed, you can make the crochet covers removable. You can then make loads of different coloured crochet ear muff covers to swap over whenever you fancy a change!
See the sticky-out fluff in the muff?!
This is the point where you need the round scrap of fabric. What happens if you don’t have fabric? You can go without if you’d rather but the fluff on my muff burst through the granny holes! Oh dear. Use fabric as a barrier between the fluff and the crochet. As you know, I didn’t have enough elastic to gather the fabric but I would recommend this step. If you going to, you could use either thread or shirring elastic.
To add the elastic to the crochet granny circles you’ve made, thread the length in and out between the stitches, all the way around the outer edge. Tie the ends together in a knot and it’s ready to pop snuggly around your muff! Add the fabric layer first.
Voila! How quick are these crochet earmuffs!!?
If your muffs are a different size, you may want to fiddle around to make the crochet covers bigger or smaller, but that’s all part of the fun.
This is such a quick granny stripe hat to crochet, the main stripes of granny clusters are worked up lickety-split! The “knit-look” crochet ribbing, whilst it takes a little longer to crochet than other rib-effect stitches, it creates a soft, squishy texture and a superb elastic stretch. It is very much worth the effort for a fantastic final result.
This hat was born from a summer version that, so far, I have refused to release as a pattern. I made several prototypes but I just didn’t like it. I am not a fan of summer hats and I wondered what would happen if I concentrated my efforts on a design that I would appreciate more.
A woolly warm, winter crochet hat is far more appealing than a cotton bucket hat. Thus, here we have a granny stripe hat that’s perfect for winter! Today, I thought I would share the pattern below. You can also purchase an ad-free version in my Ravelry storeand I also have copies for sale on Etsy. The paid version also includes an additional chart.
For 25% off the paid version until the end of the year, use the code: GRANNYHAT at the checkout.
What You Need To Crochet Your Granny Stripe Hat
To make your hat you will need a 4mm hook (US G-6). Or a hook size that meets gauge (more info below). I know you’ll be tempted not to bother with gauge as this is just a hat but if you notice that you are wildly off, please check!
You will also need 100g of Double Knit (DK) yarn. This can be all one colour, or mix it up for a multicoloured fun fest. Just under 50g is required for the brim, which is all in one colour.
And, if you fancy, add a pompom for a finishing touch. I bought cheap ones from a local garden centre. I was too lazy to make a pompom this time around. Plus, these shop bought ones are super light and don’t pull on the hats. I hadn’t thought about that before.
This is a DK Yarn Crochet Hat
I tried a few different yarn brands and made four different hats for my experiments. I also had a handful of awesome testers who tried a few more yarns too. From looking at the super important crochet hat making data, the outcome is that a standard DK weight creates the best results.
I was initially foxed by the first yarn brand I tried as their “DK” weight was very plump and it tricked me into thinking a worsted would work for the pattern I’d come up with. Whilst you certainly could get away with a worsted weight yarn if you reduced the increases, for the sake of uniformity, DK is the best yarn for the job here.
In the end, I used a blend of a couple of different DK weight yarns and made an awesome dent in my yarn stash.
In my stash, I had leftovers of King Cole Majestic and West Yorkshire Spinners Bo Peep. They are both a teensy bit different in yardage but once I was crocheting, it didn’t make a difference. My granny stripe hats look great with a mix of colours and brands. However, both the yarns are a merino/acrylic blend so have a very similar feel to them.
I don’t know the exact yardage for each stripe but when wound up in a ball, we’re talking the size of a large walnut. Take a quick look at the picture below (the one with me in my scruffy jimjams and the cat). To the left are the size of woolly balls you need for each round. I know this because I undid them from the hat as I didn’t like the colour order!
Granny Hat Measurements
This granny stripe hat has approx 8cm negative ease. This means that it is about 8cm smaller than an actual adult head. It shouldn’t be too baggy as it is stretching to fit comfortably yet securely. Therefore, it will fit snuggly atop a bonce that needs warming.
The following measurements are taken on newly made, unblocked hats stretched slightly after one outing/wear about town.
Hat circumference: (49) 50 cm. Hat depth with brim folded: 22cm Unfolded brim depth: 10.5cm Depth of granny stripe rounds: 17cm
Make size 1 for a head measuring 56 – 57cm.
Make size 2 for a head measuring 58 – 59cm.
Granny Stripe Tension
Tension is key to the size of a finished granny stripe hat. The following measurements are taken from an unblocked hat, as above.
With all crochet, there is always room for tweaking and adjusting to make something unique and perfect for the individual. However, if you would rather not tinker with stitch counts, try a simple change such as using a different hook size to get a smaller or larger gauge. Perhaps a 3.5mm or 3.75mm hook for a smaller hat, Or, for a larger hat, a 4.5mm hook.
Adjusting the granny stripe section for a different head size means altering the number of clusters on increase rounds. Adding or removing a cluster will change the hat’s circumference by approximately 1cm. Round 8 is an increase round and a good round for adding or subtracting a cluster. This pattern has either 2 or 3 increases on Round 8 depending on the size. If your hat is coming up a bit too small, why not add a 4th increase?
To make an extra large hat, add another round or two of granny stripes before continuing to the foundation round of UK dc / US sc stitches.
Crochet Ribbing Adjustments
To adjust ribbing, the stitch count needs to be changed on Round 17. This is the foundation upon which the Join As You Go ribbing is worked. Because of the different tension of the ribbing, it draws the hat in. With no increases on Round 17, crumbs, it was so tight it wouldn’t join up! So, whilst the increases might look a bit complicated on paper, they are as evenly distributed as possible. The paid version of the granny stripe hat pattern has a chart so you can check out the visuals of increases.
The foundation stitches of Round 17 should be multiples of 2, plus 1 but you’ll get away with a little bit of fudging too. Negative ease is needed for the brim so don’t add too many extra stitches if you’re upsizing.
Using the Same Colour Every Stripe Round?
The crochet hat pattern below assumes you will change colour for each granny stripe round. Each round begins by joining a new colour of yarn with “sttr” which is the rather fabulous Standing Start – see below for more information about Special Stitches.
To make a hat using the all same colour means using a different method to start subsequent rounds. It’s not a difficult crochet method, just different.
What you need to do is this: once the previous round has been joined with a slip stitch, slip stitch into the next two stitches and into the next space between clusters. From here, start the next round with a chain three, or your preferred alternative, such as a Stacked Start.
Don’t worry if you’re confused, let me help further… Take a look at the video forAlternatives to a Chain 3. A tutorial for the Stacked Start is shown in the video tutorial but if you prefer, there’s always a No Turning Chain start too. Watch my video for a Large Granny Square from 30:48 for a demonstration of the technique for when you don’t want to change colour every round.
Crochet Pattern Abbreviations
I am going to pop the stitch pattern abbreviations in here as I start talking in crochet speak from here on.
Before I do, I think it’s worth mentioning that this pattern is only available in UK terms at the moment. But please don’t let that put you off. The swap/conversion you have to do is minimal. We’re talking granny clusters here and you know as well as I do that these are always the same!
So, the main stitch in the pattern in UK terms is the treble stitch. In US terms this is a double crochet (dc). So, US pals, work your grannies as normal; clusters of 3dc. Round 17 will be single crochet stitches for you. And that’s it!
Beg tr2tog: This is used at the beginning of Rnd 1 to work the first “petal”. It uses the same principle as a Stacked Start. See the video for How to Start Round 1
Insert hook in circle, yrh and pull through, yrh and pull through both loops on hook (it helps to gently pinch the st at this point to make the next stage easier), insert hook in left leg of the st and the loop behind it (the pinch helps the back loop to become looser and more visible), yrh and pull through, (2 loops on hook), yrh and insert hook into the circle, yrh and pull through (4 loops on hook), yrh and pull through 2 loops, yrh and pull through 3 loops.
Standing tr start (sttr): The Standing Start is a method demonstrated in the video for Alternatives to Chain 3. Use this instead of chaining 3 to start the beginning of a row/round, it looks much tidier than a 3-chain and it’s fun to do!
Yrh three times and hold loops on hook with forefinger, insert hook in sp/st, yrh and pull through, [yrh and pull through 2 loops] twice. Let go of the yarn wrapped around your hook. First treble stitch made.
Supporting Video Tutorials For Crochet
How to Start Round 1– This is a tutorial for a granny square but Round 1 is exactly the same for the hat too.
Alternatives to a Chain 3– This will help you start new rounds in a tidy way. I demonstrate the Standing Start and the Stacked Start in this video. You could even try the No Turning chain, which I bemoan in the video but can actually be very effective! Don’t tell anyone, but I have started using it way more since I made this video tutorial!
Join As You Go Ribbing – The ribbing used in this granny stripe pattern is demonstrated from 18:02. It is a “knit-look” crochet ribbing and one I have used a lot. And yes, I know it has slip stitches but they are much more fun to do when accompanied by a yarn over sl st. Honest!
Using the same colour every round? Watch thetutorial for the Large Granny Square from 30:48 for the first three rounds and you can use a totally different method for starting rounds that will achieve excellent results. This granny square tutorial is a pretty useful video as I also demonstrate the Standing Start again (7:09).
Granny Stripe Hat Crochet Pattern
Hat Pattern Notes
This crochet hat pattern is written in UK terms – feel free to check out the abbreviations above for more details.
A cluster is 3 UK tr / US dc stitches made in the same space.
Using a different weight of yarn or a different sized hook will affect the size of the hat.
Follow the pattern for both sizes. At Round 8 the reps for both sizes are shown as 11(7). Size 1 is the first number with size 2 in brackets.
Granny Stripe Hat Pattern
Chain 5 and join with a sl st. 1: 1Beg tr2tog, ch2, *tr2tog, 2ch: rep from * 6 more times, join with a sl st into the 1st 2ch-sp. Fasten off & cut yarn. – 8 “petals”
2: Attach new yarn with 1sttr in any 2ch-sp, 2tr in same sp, 1ch, *3tr in next 2ch-sp, 1ch; rep from * 6 more times, join with a sl st into the top of the sttr. Fasten off & cut yarn.
3 (Inc): Attach new yarn with 1sttr in any 1ch-sp, (1tr, 1ch, 2tr) in same sp, *(2tr, 1ch, 2tr) in next 1ch-sp; rep from * 6 more times, join with a sl st into the top of the sttr. Fasten off & cut yarn.
4: Attach new yarn with 1sttr in any 1ch-sp, 2tr in same sp, miss 2 sts, 3tr, *miss 2 tr, 3tr in next 1ch-sp, miss 2 sts, 3tr; rep from * around join with a sl st into the top of the sttr. Fasten off & cut yarn. -16 clu
5: Attach new yarn with 1sttr in any sp between clusters, 2tr in same sp, *3tr in next sp; rep from * around join with a sl st into the top of the sttr. Fasten off & cut yarn.
6 (inc): Attach new yarn with 1sttr in any sp, (1tr, 1ch, 2tr) in same sp, 3tr in next sp, *(2tr, 1ch, 2tr) in next sp, 3tr in next sp; rep from * around, join with a sl st into the top of the sttr. – 24 clu
7: Attach new yarn with 1sttr in any 1ch-sp, 2tr in same sp, 3tr in each sp between clusters and in each ch-sp, join with a sl st into the top of the sttr.
8 (inc): Attach new yarn with 1sttr in any sp, (1tr, 1ch, 2tr) in same sp, 3tr in next 11(7) sps, *(2tr, 1ch, 2tr) in next sp, 3tr in next 11 (7) sps; rep from * 0 (1) more time, join with a sl st into the top of the sttr. – 26 (27) clu
9: As Rnd 7.
10 – 16: Attach new yarn with 1sttr in any sp, 2tr in same sp, 3tr in each sp between clusters around, join with a sl st into the top of the sttr.
For a smaller head you may wish to only work 15 rounds, or 17 rounds for a larger head.
17 (size 1): Attach brim ribbing yarn to any st, 1ch (does not count as a st), [2dc in first st, 1dc, *2dc in next st, 3dc; rep from * five more times] three times, join with a sl st into the top of the st. – 99 sts
17 (size 2): Attach brim ribbing, 1ch, 2dc in first st, 3dc, 2dc in next st, 4dc, [2dc in next st, 1dc, *2dc in next st, 3dc; rep from * three more times] four times, join with a sl st into the top of the st. – 103 sts
Hat Brim/Crochet Ribbing
Chain 25. 1: Working in back bumps,YO sl st in second ch from hook, YO sl st to end, (with right side facing) sl st in next 2 sts of foundation round, turn. – 24 sts.
2 (w/s): Miss 2 sl sts, 23sl sts BLO, 1sl st in both loops, turn.
3 (r/s): ch1, 24 YO sl st BLO, sl st in next 2 sts of foundation round, turn.
Rep Rows 2 & 3 to end, finishing with Row 2.
With wrong side of brim facing out, join the beginning and end rows of ribbing with slip stitches. Or, if you prefer, sew the open ends together. Fold brim to reveal the right side of the pretty ribbing stitches.
Hmm, look at the pic above, is that join too messy? It makes me wonder if an additional round of UK dc/US sc could be added at the end of the granny rounds. Don’t you think it would look neater with a round in the same colour as the last round of clusters? Hindsight is a wonderful thing!
Aaannnyway, what do you think? I hope you enjoy working on lots of granny stripe hats. They are the perfect last minute gift for friends and family.
If the ads are stopping your from enjoying this pattern, don’t forget that you can purchase an ad-free version from Ravelry HERE, Or if Rav isn’t your bag, I have an Etsy shop HERE. The paid pattern is a bit more streamlined and includes a chart too. 25% off with the code GRANNYHAT until 31/12/2024
If you enjoyed this free crochet pattern, please feel free to peruse my free crochet patterns page. And if you are curious about exploring different crochet methods and techniques, check out some crochet tips and tricks HERE.
Bless my sweet boy! It has been a few years since he modelled my Christmas Granny Santa Hat. He is much bigger than this now, in fact, he is taller than me and growing every day. However, I know that this Granny Santa hat still fits him as it’s a bit of a one size fits all hat.
Made from super chunky yarn, this hat is incredibly quick and easy to crochet. It’s not even Halloween yet, so you have plenty of time to crochet a Santa hat for everyone in the family this Christmas!
This is a crochet design from a few years ago and I thought it would be good to have as a festive freebie (scroll down to find the free pattern). However, you can also grab a copy of the PDF version, which also has a bonus pattern of matching crochet granny hat bunting!
The Crochet Christmas Collection
Not to confuse matters but I also created a collection of crochet patterns I thought were Christmassy, into one bundle. It’s the Christmas Crochet Collection and features: granny stitch baubles, cosy crochet slipper socks the aforementioned hat and bunting, as well as a C2C sweater with a subtle nod to Christmas.
All the pictures in this pattern are of the same chunky Christmas hat, it’s just different heads that it’s perched upon.
The hat is worked bottom up, starting with the front post/back post brim.
Finished size: When laid flat the length (excl pompom) is approx 14 inches / 36cm. The diameter is approximately 9.5 inches / 24cm.
There is an option to finish the hat a few rounds early (that way, just one ball of red can be used). See Round 17.
Whilst tension isn’t too much of an issue for a hat like this, it will affect the amount of yarn you use.
The pattern is written in UK terms and has US equivalents in brackets (see abbreviations). However, it is pretty much all one stitch – the US double crochet. As long as you use that, you’re good to go.
When “cluster” is referred to in the pattern, this means a traditional 3 stitch granny cluster. (3tr for UK and 3dc for US).
Chunky Yarn for a Crochet Santa Hat
I used Stylecraft Life Super Chunky (100g/80m per ball). You will need one ball of the Cream and two balls of the colourway, Cardinal. If you need to be a bit more conservative with the amount of yarn you use, you could finish your hat a few rounds early and then you would only need one ball in Cardinal.
The bonus garland pattern within the PDF versioncame about because I had to break into the second ball of the red to finish the pointy bit of the hat. I had plenty of chunky yarn left over and didn’t want it to go to waste. So the result is the garland of mini crochet Santa hats!
Note that in the US a super chunky is often in the same category as super bulky.
Don’t Forget Your Other Crochet Tools:
8mm crochet hook.
Large eye darning needle – something that will fit super chunky yarn.
Pompom maker for approx 8-9cm diameter pompom.
Scissors – you can’t break a bulky yarn with your hands unless you have some kind of magical Christmas spirit strength.
Crochet Pattern Abbreviations
Ch= chain, BPtr= back post treble (US BPdc), FPtr= front post treble (US FPdc) Rep= repeat, St= stitch, Sl st= slip stitch, Tr= Treble crochet (US double).
Granny Santa Hat Pattern
With Cream, chain 54. 1: Working in back bumps of chain, 1tr in 4th ch from hook, 1tr along to end, join with a sl st to the top of ch3 to form a circle. [52 sts] 2-4: Ch3 (counts as a FPtr), *1BPtr, 1FPtr; rep from * around, finishing on BPtr, join with a sl st to top of ch3. Fasten off Cream. 5: Attach Cardinal to any st, ch3, 2tr in same st, miss 3 sts, *3tr cluster, miss 3 sts; rep from * around, join with a sl st to the top of ch3. [13 clusters] 6 -10: Ch3, 2tr in same sp, *3tr cluster in next sp; rep from * around, join with a sl st to the top of ch3. [13 clusters] 11: Ch2, 1tr in next sp (counts as a decrease), *3tr cluster in next sp; rep from * around, join with a sl st to the top of 1tr, sl st into next sp. 12: Rep 6. [12 clusters] 13: Rep 11. 14: Rep 6. [11 clu] 15: Rep 11. 16: Rep 6. [10 clu] 17: Rep 11. (This is where I ran out of the first ball of Cardinal so, for a shorter, less pointy hat, fasten off here). 18: Rep 6. [8 clu] 19: Rep 11. 20: Rep 6. [7 clu]
Finishing Off Your Santa Hat
Fasten off by using the tail to weave between clusters. Pull tight to securely close. You might want to weave the yarn in and out a few times just to be sure it’s fastened off nice and firmly. Then, sew the bottom of the brim closed with a couple of stitches (see above). Sew in all other ends.
Make and trim a beautiful, big, fluffy pompom to attach to the top of the hat. The best way to attach it is to use the tie ends of the pompom.
Hey Presto!! You now have a fabulous granny stitch hat that would make Father Christmas very proud! What do you think? I quite fancy a green and white striped version. Maybe I will make one this year.
Subscribe to Blog via Email
All three of these photos are the same hat on different people. I think it gives you a good idea of the one-size-fits-all approach.
With thanks to my old pal, Paul Courtney who took most of these pics with his fancy camera. That’s him below, a Father Christmas in the making.
