Quick Crochet Patterns for Christmas Gifts (And Stocking Fillers!)
Here are some quick and easy crochet patterns for Christmas gifts and stocking fillers. The great thing is, all of these are free crochet patterns, right here, on my blog!
We’re a week or so into November, so there is still plenty of time to work up quick crochet projects for the festive season. Perhaps you’re looking to crochet stocking fillers, or maybe make small gifts to crochet that will sit under the tree, waiting to be unwrapped on the big day. Whatever the reason, you’re sure to find some crochet inspiration here.
The following crochet patterns are all great ideas that you can get sorted well in time for Christmas. And they make great stash busters, too. Some also have links to tutorials on my crochet YouTube channel. Not all of them, but you’ll find more info in each pattern’s post.
A Granny Stripe Woolly Hat
I love this granny stripe hat pattern so much that I’ve crocheted four of them so far. The ribbing is a little time-consuming, but get into the swing of it, and you don’t notice. You could also swap it for post stitches if you were in a hurry.
Crochet Hair Scrunchies – Super Quick Crochet!
This crochet hair scrunchie pattern is one of the quickest crochet patterns on the list. Oh, so quick to make, and they are the best stocking fillers for the long-haired person in your life.
I make a little ball of knotted scraps to make the really colourful scrunchies. Mohair yarn also looks great too.
Barking Mad – A Houndstooth Stitch Scarf
Isn’t the houndstooth stitch such a crochet classic!? I love exploring ways to use this delightful stitch. So, my Barking Mad Scarf is a scarf crocheted on the diagonal. It uses two hanks of hand-dyed yarn held with mohair, but honestly, you can make this in your favourite DK or worsted weight yarn too.
Not that you need to know, but I wore my grey pair of cosy crochet socks to death. I wore them every winter for four years until they wore away. All good things must come to an end, so they were replaced with the cream Christmas socks! Although, to be honest, the only thing that makes them Christmassy is the added holly leaves and red trim. Subtle, but I like it.
I used an aran weight yarn that borders on chunky yarn. Even with a finer weight of yarn, socks can be crocheted in no time and then secretly stuffed into a Christmas stocking!
Easy Gingham Crochet Bows
As well as bringing festive cheer with crochet bows in deep reds and greens, they would look totally amazing, popped onto wrapped Christmas presents. Or, I can see them tied to tree branches as well. These easy-to-make gingham crochet bows would also look great as a hair accessory.
Now that I think about it, I really would love loads of crochet bows decorating my Christmas tree.
Chunky Mittens – Quick Crochet Christmas Gifts
I cannot express how quick these chunky crochet mittens are to make. It still takes me by surprise. Colour-changing yarn takes them up a ramp, too, although I do have the perfect Christmassy red pair as well.
These crochet mittens are worked from the cuff up with increases to create the thumb shaping. A few small adjustments can be made to alter the size a bit.
Crochet Totes – Crochet Patterns for Christmas Gifts
Crochet is the perfect craft for making shoppers, totes and market bags by hand. I truly love a crochet bag in any guise! Therefore, here are two crochet pattern ideas for Christmas gifts. If you have the time, line the bags with a simple lining to make them a little bit stronger.
Cotton yarn is the best for crochet bags as it has robust durability. Some yarn brands have beautiful colour ranges so you can make really bright, cheerful crochet bags.
Zigzag Tote bag pattern. I love a crochet chevron, and they look great in this cotton crochet bag.
Granny Stitch Crochet Earmuffs
Stop ears from getting cold on blustery days, pop on some snuggly crochet earmuffs! This crochet idea is definitely the quickest crochet pattern in the list. You do need to buy earmuffs to cover, though.
The granny earmuff covers are removable, so feel free to make several pairs so that the wearer can change them whenever the mood strikes!
Easy Crochet Wrist Warmers!
OMG, these are the easiest crochet wrist warmers ever. There’s the teeniest bit of shaping to make sure they fit at the forearms. But there’s not even a thumb hole, so you can just enjoy working around and around. Buy self-striping yarn and you don’t even need to think about changing colour (or sew in a crazy amount of ends).
The crocheted hat and cowl for the Apres Ski set start life the same way. A strip of simple corner-to-corner crochet work creates the chevron pattern. Then they’re joined into a cowl, or with a few additional stitches, you’ve got a warm crocheted hat.
Obviously, all of these patterns make great last-minute crochet gifts, but I really think this cosy set would be perfect as a Christmas gift for family and friends.
Christmas Granny Stitch Santa Hat
Super chunky yarn means crochet patterns work up in a ridiculously short amount of time. I’m not normally a fan, but this chunky Santa hat pattern is such a fun item for everyone to wear at Christmas!
Modelled by my son a few years ago, the same hat fits me. So it’s kind of a one-size-fits-all hat. The sad thing is, I don’t remember how old he is here. He’s 16 now…
Simple Crochet Shawls
I’ve saved shawls until the end, as they are probably the longest projects here. However, you may find that you have the time to work on one of these simple designs. They are all free crochet triangle shawl patterns on the blog.
Hinterland Shawl
Top left, the Hinterland shawlis an aran-weight shawl using some pretty basic stitches. However, those stitches really do sing when they’re placed together. It’s a large shawl, so perhaps a present for under the tree (I don’t think that it would fit in an Xmas stocking!).
Urban Stripe Shawl
Top middle, we have the Urban Stripe shawl, which is a basic pattern worked from end to end. Regular increases are made to the middle, then decreases are made to the end. It’s also a great beginner crochet project. A sport weight yarn works well for this design, but it’s pretty versatile, and you can switch to a different yarn weight.
Wayward Sisters Shawl
Top right is the Wayward Sisters shawl, a crochet granny shawl, but the stripes run horizontally. For ease, speed and avoiding sewing in ends, this granny stripe shawl would look amazing in one colour. Also, why not add a contrast colour for the edging to bring it to life?
Triangular Granny Shawl
Lastly, it’s another triangle granny shawl pattern. It’s a stupendous stashbuster that can be worked up lickety split. This version uses 4ply yarn scraps, but the original version (made years ago) uses DK wool.
In case you didn’t catch the pattern links as you read through, let’s list them here:
And there we have it, lots of different ideas to help you with crochet patterns for Christmas gifts! It’s a great collection with something for everyone. Do you think you’ll crochet some of these for loved ones? Let me know!
Crochet mittens are a winter favourite of mine, and that includes super warm, chunky crochet mittens! Ordinarily, I prefer a lighter weight of yarn for handmade accessories, but for quick-fix crochet, this pattern is great.
These crochet chunky mittens are worked from the cuff up to the tips of the fingers. After a post-stitch ribbing, simple increases are made to incorporate space for a thumb. Then, the rest of the mitten is shaped with a couple of decreases. Because bulky weight yarn is used, they work up super fast, so they make ideal crochet gifts too.
Chunky yarn and bulky yarn are the same weight of yarn. I believe that’s a size 5 (although I don’t use yarn sizes, so had to look it up!). It turns out that a chunky, or bulky yarn makes a great pair of mittens when using simple crochet stitches.
Of course, I tried a few different yarn brands and after a bit of research, my two favourite chunky yarns were West Yorkshire Spinners Re:Treat and Stylecraft Carnival Tweed. Also, it turns out, you can make one pair of chunky crochet mittens out of a single, 100-gram ball of yarn, which is just amazing!
5.5mm hook (US I/9) for the mitten main sections. Please remember to change to the 5.5mm crochet hook once you have completed the cuff. I totally forgot when I filmed the tutorial and, when it dawns on me (after I’ve crocheted most of the mitten!), I show you at the end what difference it makes.
Crochet Stitch Abbreviations – US Terms
beg = beginning, bpdc = back post double, ch = chain, ch-sp = chain space, dec = decrease, fpdc = front post double, hdc = half double crochet, st(s) = stitch(es), sp(s) = space(s), sl st = slip stitch, rep = repeat, yrh = yarn round hook.
Stitch Tension
Tension isn’t necessarily essential but it could affect the fit of your mittens. And it could also affect the amount used. Basically, if stitches are too loose, it doesn’t matter, but it will mean you need more than one ball of yarn.
If you’re a stickler for gauge (and I am very much in support of meaasuring gauge), 8cm measures 11 stitches & 8 rows. I chose 8cm as a measurement because I could measure across the widest part of the mitten to check it. If it was the standard 10, I would have had to make a gauge swatch and honestly, I wasn’t up for that for crochet mittens!
Finished Mitten Size
The wrist circumference is 19cm / 7.5in. The mitten length is 24cm / 9.5 in. This means that the mitten will fit the average woman’s hand very nicely indeed. Comparatively, I think I have a pretty average hand size.
Adjusting a Crochet Mitten to Fit
If you wanted to adjust these chunky crochet mittens to make them a different size, it’s definitely possible. There are a couple of different places you could add or take away stitches and rows. So, here are three ways to make potential adjustments.
To adjust the circumference, the stitch pattern is a multiple of two to accommodate the 1×1 post stitch ribbing. Therefore, take or add two stitches to the foundation round at the beginning. Surprisingly, just two stitches measure approximately 1.5cm! So bear that in mind.
Each round of hdc stitches is 1cm in height. There are two places where you could add extra rows to make longer mittens, or indeed, take the away for shorter mittens. You might want to remove the first round on hdc (UK htr) stitches after the cuff. Then remove a further round after the thumb split. Or add them if you want larger/longer chunky crochet mittens.
If you had exceptionally slender thumbs, you could, perhaps, lose a stitch either by dropping the final increase on round 12 and skipping 7 titches rather than 8 for the thumb split. But I wouldn’t advise on reducing them too drastically. An extra stitch can be incorporated by adding one more increase on round 12 if you wanted larger thumbs. If you do this, skip 9 stitches at the split, not 8.
You could also make cosy crochet wrist warmers by not working the thumb and finishing after 5 or six round after the split!
Notes For Chunky Crochet Mittens
As nearly always, the 1ch at the beginning of rounds is not counted as a st.
When changing colour, cut the old yarn and pull through the new yarn on the last yarn over of the previous round before slip stitching to join the round.
For Round 1, close up the open start by popping in a few firm stitches to sew closed, it’s OK to leave this until the end.
If in doubt check out the video tutorial. It has timestamps for the main sections.
I know this is obvious, but make two mittens to get your pair!
Special Stitches
Foundation double (fdc). This is an alternative to beginning with a foundation chain. It creates a neater edge that’s less likely to be tighter than the rest of your stitches.
Ch4 (counts as a st), yrh, insert hook in 4th ch from hook, yrh, draw through, yrh, draw through 1 loop (this creates the space you’ll work the next stitch into), yrh, draw through 2 loops, yrh, draw through 2 loops. Work the next fdc (foundation double) into the created space and loop behind it.
Decreases (dec). Yrh and insert hook into st, yrh and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), insert hook into next st, yrh and pull up a loop, yrh, pull through all 4 loops on hook.
Chunky Crochet Mittens Pattern
Main Hand Section
Rnd 1 (r/s): With 5mm hook, 26fdc, join with sl st, turn. [26 sts] Rnd 2 – 5: 1ch, *1fpdc, 1bpdc; rep from * around, join with sl st, do not turn (here & throughout). Rnds 6 – 7: Change to 5.5mm hook, 1ch, hdc around. Rnd 8: 1ch, starting in the first st [1hdc, 2hdc in next st] twice, hdc to last st, 2hdc in last st, join with sl st to first st, turn [29 sts] Rnd 9: As Rnd 6 Rnd 10: As Rnd 8. [32 sts] Rnd 11: As Rnd 6. Rnd 12: 1ch, 1hdc, 2hdc in next st, hdc around, join with sl st to first st, fasten off. [33 sts].
Separate for Hand and Thumb
With loop on the hook, insert hook into first st, skip 8 sts, insert hook into back of next st, sl st through both sts, turn work to continue working on hand.
Rnd 1: 1hdc in same stitch as sl st just made, hdc around, join with a sl st to the first st. [25 sts] Rnds 2 – 5: 1ch, hdc around, join with sl st. Rnd 6: 1ch, 1hdc, 1dec, hdc around, join with sl st. [24 sts] Rnd 7: As Rnd 2. Rnd 8: 1ch, 1hdc, 1dec, 8 hdc, 1dec, hdc to end, join with sl st, turn. [22sts] Rnd 9: As Rnd 2 Rnd 10: 1ch, 1hdc, 1dec, 7hdc, 1dec, hdc to end, join with sl st, turn. [20 sts] Rnd 11: As Rnd 10. [18 sts] Fasten off, leaving a tail.
Crocheting the Thumb
Rnd 1: Join yarn to any st, 1ch, hdc around, join with a sl st to first st, turn. [8 sts] Rnd 2: 1ch, hdc around, join with sl st to the first st, turn. Rnd 3: 1ch, 1hdc, 1dec, hdc around, join with sl st to the first st, turn. [7 sts] Rnds 4 & 5: As Rnd 2. Fasten off, leaving a tail.
With the right side out, use a darning needle to weave the tail through each front loop of the top of the mitten. Gently pull to close. Sew in the end to secure. Rep for thumb. Sew in all other ends.
And there you have it! Really easy crochet mittens using bulky yarn, my chunky crochet mittens! What do you think? How quickly do you think you’d be able to make a pair? I bet you could do it in a day without a hitch! Let me know!
If you enjoyed this free crochet pattern, please feel free to peruse the rest of my blog. I have some other fabulous free crochet patterns, or I have a page that gathers some excellent resources for crochet tips and tricks. You’ll find some brand new crochet ideas to add to your repertoire!
But for now, thank you for stopping by and I’ll be back soon. Cheers! x
Hinterland is an aran weight crochet shawl pattern that I designed back in 2018. It was a crochet design commissioned for Mollie Makes magazine, which is sadly no longer published (oh, how I loved Mollie Makes!).
In the magazine, the shawl was called Nordic Noir. I wasn’t keen on that title, so I changed the name when I published it independently. Hinterland, as a name, feels a little bit less moody.
If you would like the free version of Hinterland, my aran-weight crochet shawl, please keep reading. I’ll throw in a few “How to” pictures as well, as I think that’s helpful. A chart and table of stitch counts are also included in thePDF version pattern for purchase.
To make your aran weight crochet shawl, you will need (funnily enough) some aran weight yarn. I have crocheted this shawl three times, and each time I have successfully used a different yarn brand. It’s a very versatile shawl. Sadly, I don’t remember the other brands, but that’s Ok as I don’t have many pics of them anyway. Just use your fave aran or worsted weight yarn and you won’t go far wrong.
However, a perfectly fine yarn to use, and the yarn I used in the original Hinterland shawl, is King Cole Fashion Aran. Unfortunately, it looks like the Shetland shade isn’t available anymore, but don’t worry, the range is pretty wide. I’m sure you can choose lots of colourful alternatives to make a beautiful crochet shawl. Just writing up this blog post makes me want to crochet a new version in totally different colours!
This aran weight crochet shawl pattern is super easy, and therefore, I would say that it’s suitable for beginners.
The finished size is approximately. It’s a big, warm hug of a shawl at 220 x 88 cm / 86.5 x 34.5 inches.
Free Crochet Shawl Pattern Using Aran Weight Yarn
Hinterland’s Yarn and Hook Sizes.
As has been the case for my last few free crochet patterns, I’ve made the decision to write the freebie up in US terms. I didn’t always do this, but because many of my customers prefer US terms, it makes sense to move forward with this from now on. The paid-for version has both UK and US crochet terms.
King Cole Fashion Aran is 30% and 70% acrylic with 200m per 100g. You will need 300g (3x100g balls) of the main colour (YA) and 200g (2x100g balls) of the edging colour (YB).
For the main body of the shawl, you will need a 5.0 mm (UK 6, US H/8) crochet hook. For the edging, change to a 5.5mm (US I) crochet hook. There is a slight difference in tension for the different crochet stitches, so to balance that, the different hook sizes are used. There’s nothing to stop you from using a different size of hook to find one that best suits your crochet style.
Ready to crochet?
Aran Weight Crochet Shawl Pattern
With YA and 5mm hook, chain 4 Row 1: (1dc, ch2, 2dc) in 4th ch from hook, turn. [2 sts per side, not inc 2 centre chains] Row 2: Ch3, 1dc in same st, 2dc in next st, (1dc, 2ch, 1dc) in 2ch-sp, 2dc in next st, 2dc in top of 4th ch, turn. [5 sts per side & increasing by 3 sts each row] Row 3: Ch3, 1dc in same st, 2dc in next st, 1dc along to center, (1dc, 2ch, 1dc) in 2ch-sp, 1dc along to last 2 sts, 2dc in next st, 2dc in top of 3rd ch, turn.
Row 4 – 7: Rep Row 3 Row 8: Ch4 (counts as 1dc and ch1, here & throughout), [1dc in next st, ch1] twice, skip next st, *1dc, ch1, skip 1 st; rep from * to center, (1dc, 2ch,1dc) in 2ch-sp, ch1, **skip 1 st, 1dc, ch1; rep from** to last 2 sts, 1dc in next st, ch1, 1dc in top of 3rd ch, turn. [12dc & 11ch sts / 23sts] Row 9: Ch3, 1dc in same st, 2dc in 1st ch-sp, 1dc in next st, *1dc in ch-sp, 1dc in next st; rep from * to center, (1dc, 2ch, 1dc) in 2ch-sp, **1dc in next st, 1dc in ch-sp; rep from ** to last 2 sts, 2dc in last ch-sp, 2dc in top of 3rd ch, turn. [26 st per side]
Change to a 5.5 mm hook. Row 42: Ch4, 1sc in same st, ch1, skip 1 st, *1sc, ch1, skip 1 st; rep from * to center, (1sc, 2ch, 1sc) in 2ch-sp, ch1, skip 1st, rep from * to end, finishing with (1sc, 1ch, 1dc) in top of 3rd ch, change colour to YB on last st, turn. [1dc, 62sc, 62ch / 125 sts & increasing by 3 sts per side, each row]
Row 43: Ch4, 1sc in first sp, ch1, skip 1 st, *1sc in 1ch-sp, ch1, skip 1 st; rep from * to center, (1sc, 2ch, 1sc) in 2ch-sp, ch1, skip 1 st, rep from * to end finishing with (1sc, 1ch, 1dc) in last sp, turn. Row 44 – 62: Rep Row 43 Row 63: Ch1 (does not count as a st), (1sc, 2ch, 1sc) in first ch-sp, 1sl st in next ch-sp, *(1sc, 2ch, 1sc) in next ch-sp, sl st in next); rep from * to center, (2sc, 2ch, 2sc) in 2ch-sp, **1sl st in next ch-sp, (1sc, 2ch, 1sc) in next; rep from ** to end. Fasten off and sew in ends.
Blocking A Crochet Shawl
As luck would have it, I have a blog post all about blocking crochet projects. Feel free to check it out because it has lots of useful info. However, for this aran weight crochet shawl, I used a yarn that has a blend of wool and acrylic. Due to the acrylic content, I chose to steam block the Hinterland shawl. Be super careful when you do this because steam is HOT, and you do not want to melt all of your hard work.
To open up the stitches and give this shawl a beautiful drape, blocking is essential. Pin out onto foam blocking mats (or use a towel on the carpet). Take lots of care to steam block by holding an iron (with a steam function) an inch above the work. This is just so important, DO NOT let the iron touch the yarn; it will melt/burn acrylic yarn. Leave to dry.
However, I thoroughly recommend getting a steamer; honestly, it totally takes away the fear of melting.
Making Tassels for your Crochet Shawl
Make three tassels; you want one for each point of your triangle shawl. If the following instructions don’t make sense, I have a How To Make Tassels video tutorial.
Wrap Yarn B around the width of a sturdy A5 book approximately 20 times. With a 30 cm piece of yarn, tie the lengths together in the middle, then cut the other ends. Fold the strands in half with the tie at the top so that you have a mini bundle of yarn. 2cm down from the tied middle, tie another 30cm length of yarn around the lengths (you can wrap this around a couple of times) and let them hang with the other threads. Trim the tassel ends and tie them to the corners of the shawl for a nice finishing touch. Sew in the ends.
And voila! That’s how you make an aran weight crochet shawl. If you like this crochet pattern and would like to try some of my other designs, the best way to do that is to have a read through this blog! The first place to visit is my Free Crochet Pattern page. Let me know what you think because I would love to hear from you! 🙂
This gingham crochet bow pattern only uses small amounts of yarn scraps, so it’s perfect for a stash-busting project. Little bows, whether gingham, checked, plain, large or small, they’re a super speedy crochet project. In this blog post, you’ll find patterns for both the large and small sizes.
Both crochet bow patterns are also very easy to adapt. Why not add more rows for a deeper, plusher bow? No one says you have to go gingham, so make them all in one colour, or edge them in contrast colours. What about crocheting a giant bow in super chunky yarn? Play around with these crochet bows and have fun because it’s the sort of crochet pattern where you can’t stop at just one!
You could even crochet some tie sections in gingham (or plain colours), too! I didn’t do this as I’ve only just thought of it (8 years after first designing the crochet bows!), but I think that would look really cute. Instead, I hastily crocheted short chains of about 15-18 chains for the little bows, which can be easily stitched to the back to look like ties. See the next photo to have a visual of the chains. I pulled the knots tight so they don’t come undone, but you may want to sew the ends in to secure.
Below are the written patterns, but I’ve also put together a video tutorial for the gingham crochet bow pattern. I demonstrate how to make both the small and large bows in the gingham pattern, which uses a basic tapestry crochet technique.
It’s a pattern I designed for Inside Crochet magazine back in 2017, but I have a feeling crochet bows are on their way back into fashion, so it’s the perfect time to revisit this easy pattern.
The approximate sizes are: Large bow5 x 12cm /1¼ x 2¼ inches. Small bow 3 x 6cm / 2x 4¾ inches. But don’t let that stop you from experimenting and making them in different yarn weights to come up with different-sized crochet bows. I used a super chunky yarn and a 6 or 7 mm hook ( I can’t remember now) to make a giant bow. I have no idea what to do with it, but it was fun to make! [Edit:: just in the last few minutes, one of the kids has taken ownership of it!]
Materials for Crochet Bow Pattern
I use DK cotton in the main pattern because it’s sturdy and creates a nice, firm bow. You don’t need very much yarn at all. Below, I’ve said 20 grams, which is generous. So you probably won’t need that much. We’re talking fewer than 50 metres of each colour. This should make one large and two small crochet bows
20 grams Drops Muskat DK (100% cotton, 50g/100m/109yds), in Denim (Yarn A), 15 grams each of Rico Cotton Essentials DK (100% cotton, 50g/130m/142yds) in Navy (Yarn B) & Natural (Yarn C).
3mm hook.
Needle for sewing in ends.
Headband and 2x 5cm hair clips – Suggested because I added the crochet bows to hair accessories.
Hot glue gun (or other strong glue) – optional.
You’ll be using US single crochet stitches for this crochet bow pattern. That’s UK double crochets. There’s also the option of finishing off with a slip stitch edging to make them a little bit tidier. That, and chaining, are all the techniques you need to know.
Crochet Bow Pattern Notes
Colour changes: Yarn is changed during the third stitch of the current colour. Ie, insert hook in stitch, yarn over and pull through stitch, drop current yarn and finish stitch by yarning over and pulling through the new yarn to complete.
The yarn not in use is crocheted over as you go, ready to pick up when you need it.
With Yarn A chain 64. Row 1: 1sc in second ch from hook, 1sc in next 2 sts, *change colour to Yarn B, 1sc in next 3 sts, change colour to Yarn A, 1sc in next 3 sts; rep from * to the end, turn. – 63 sts. 2: 1ch, 1sc in next 3 sts, *change colour to Yarn B, 1sc in next 3 sts, change colour to Yarn A, 1sc in next 3 sts; rep from * to the end, change colour to Yarn C on the last st, turn. 3: 1ch, 1sc in next 3 sts, *change colour to Yarn A, 1sc in next 3 sts, change colour to Yarn C, 1sc in next 3 sts; rep from * to the end, turn. 4: 1ch, 1sc in next 3 sts, *change colour to Yarn A, 1sc in next 3 sts, change colour to Yarn C, 1sc in next 3 sts; rep from * to the end, change colour to Yarn A on the last st, turn. 5: 1ch, 1sc in next 3 sts, *change colour to Yarn B, 1sc in next 3 sts, change colour to Yarn A, 1sc in next 3 sts; rep from * to the end, turn. 6: As Row 2. 7: As Row 3. 8: As Row 4. 9: As Row 5. 10: As Row 2. 11: 1ch, sc to end. Cut yarn, leaving an end for joining. Sew in the other ends and fold the piece in half (neatest side inside) end to end. Join ends together using sc stitches or sewing. Fasten off and sew in the last end. Turn right side out.
Large Gingham Bow Middle Band
With Yarn A chain 19. Row 1: 1sc in second ch from hook, 1sc in next 2 sts, *change colour to Yarn B, 1sc in next 3 sts, change colour to Yarn A, 1sc in next 3 sts; rep from * twice, change colour to Yarn B, 1sc in next 3 sts, turn. – 18 sts. 2: 1ch, 1sc in next 3 sts, *change colour to Yarn A, 1sc in next 3 sts, change colour to Yarn B, 1sc in next 3 sts; rep from * twice, change colour to Yarn A, 1sc in next 3 sts, change colour to Yarn C on the last st, turn. 3: 1ch,1sc in next 3 st, *change colour to Yarn A, 1sc in next 3 st, change colour to Yarn C, 1sc in next 3 st; rep from * twice, change colour to Yarn A, 1sc in next 3 st, turn. 4: 1ch, 1sc in next 3 sts, *change colour to Yarn C, 1sc in next 3 sts, change colour to Yarn A, 1sc in next 3 sts; rep from * twice, change colour to Yarn C, 1sc in next 3 sts, change colour to Yarn A on the last st, turn. 5: 1ch, 1sc in next 3 sts, *change colour to Yarn B, 1sc in next 3 sts, change colour to Yarn A, 1sc in next 3 sts; rep from * twice, change colour to Yarn B, 1sc in next 3 sts, turn. 6: Rep Row 2, ending without the last colour change. Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing. Sew in all the other ends.
Large Plain Crochet Bow
Chain 59. Row 1: 1sc in second ch from hook, sc to end, turn. – 58 sts. 2: 1ch, sc to end, turn. Rows 3 – 14: As Row 2. 15: Join contrast yarn, slip stitch along to end. Fasten off and sew in the ends. Rep slip stitch edging on the right side of Row 1.
Make a middle band in one colour (as instructed above for stitch count and rows). Add contrast slip-stitch edging to the first and last rows of the middle band.
Assembly For Large Bows
With the joining seam in the centre of the back, pinch the middle of the main piece to make a bow shape. Hold against the headband (if using) and wrap the middle band around all. Sew the ends of the middle band together to secure it all in place. You can also use glue to secure the bow to the hairband or any other surface you wish to attach it to.
Small Gingham Bow
With Yarn A chain 16. Repeat rows 1-6 of main piece. – 15 sts. Fasten off and sew in ends.
Assembly For Small Bow
Using 80cm of Yarn B, tightly tie a knot around the centre of the bow, leaving a 10 cm tail. Wrap the yarn tightly 12-14 times around the centre. Tie a knot at the back of the bow and sew in ends, then with a hot glue gun (or equivalent), stick the bow to the hair clip. Alternatively, sew the bow to the clip. Repeat with the other small bow.
And that’s it! Pretty simple, hey? If you liked this crochet bow pattern, then please feel free to check out my free crochet pattern page to find more fun projects. Cheers! x
With the rise in popularity of using leftover scrap yarn, I thought it was the perfect time to revisit an old classic: the granny triangle shawl! You can’t go wrong with granny stripes worked into a crochet shawl pattern, so gather all your yarn leftovers; it’s time to work up a fabulous stash buster.
I designed my first crochet granny triangle shawl way back in 2016. I was relatively new to the world of crochet blogging and desperately wanted to put together a step-by-step photo tutorial. For 2025, I have made a few tweaks to make this granny triangle shawl even easier. Although, honestly, the old version isn’t hard at all.
I have tidied the edging of this new (very simple) crochet shawl, and that is the only change. Well, the yarns and colours here are a proper stash-busting scenario, whereas my original version had planned colour placement.
You could crochet your granny shawl in 4 ply, DK, or worsted, to name three different yarn weights. You could use the same colour of yarn throughout, or even self-striping yarn if you want to avoid sewing in all the ends.
This particular shawl measures 68.5 x 145 cm (27 X 57 inches) and uses approximately 225 grams of 4 ply/fingering/sock weight yarn. That’s roughly 1,012 yards/ just under 1,000 meters. For row 55, it’s about 10grams (40 – 45 metres), therefore, this would also be a great crochet pattern for using mini skeins.
Of course, you can make your shawl bigger or smaller. If you want a variation of the pattern, such as using a different yarn weight, the quantities and measurements will probably change. I really don’t think it matters too much for this crochet pattern. A granny triangle shawl can be made in whatever weight of yarn you like, with whatever hook size you like.
As I used 4 ply, I chose a 3.5mm crochet hook, which creates a pretty standard tension, so that there is a nice drape to the shawl.
Whether you’re using yarn stash in your favourite weight of yarn, or going to use all one colour from a special collection, it will likely work for this easy crochet project. But a granny triangle shawl does make the perfect stash busting crochet project, so let’s talk about that a bit more…
The Ultimate Yarn Stashbuster!!
Projects where you can just grab all your yarn leftovers are the best! We’re all a bit skint at the moment, but it doesn’t mean we have to go without. Making sure yarn scraps are used and loved in a new crochet project is perfect. Creating something special from not very much at all? We can achieve that in crochet!
There’s nothing to stop you changing colour halfway through a row, either. Use up every last bit!
You don’t have to use 4ply yarn, you can use whatever you have in your yarn stash. In fact, my original granny triangle shawl is DK (double knitting) weight yarn.
If changing to a different yarn weight, all you need to do is change the hook size you use to create the drape and tension that you like best. You could even mix up your yarn weights for something, perhaps a bit more bonkers, but at least it’ll be truly unique.
The beauty of stashbusting yarn leftovers is that you can create crazy colour palettes in yarn you wouldn’t ordinarily plan. It can seem scary to throw all the colours in one project, but if you’re willing to go with the flow, you could end up with your new favourite crochet accessory!
Granny Triangle Shawl Pattern
If you’d prefer to have an ad-free version of this pattern (US & UK terms available), it is available in my Ravelry store to purchase. Or, if Rav isn’t your thing, find the pattern in my Etsy shop.
The following pattern is written in US terms. (Having explored the type of instructions I share on the blog, I’m now leaning towards US instructions as they seem to be preferred by most readers. I’m happy to share both UK & US instructions, which I have done in the past, but I’d rather not confuse things. Let me know your thoughts! Thanks!!).
Materials to Crochet a Granny Triangle Shawl
As discussed in more detail above, you need approximately 225 grams of 4ply yarn and 3.5mm crochet hook. Feel free to use any yarn you like, mix it up, go wild!
Abbreviations (US Crochet terms)
beg = beginning, BLO = back loop only, ch = chain, ch-sp = chain space, clu = cluster (3dc in same sp), dc = double crochet, PM = place marker, R/S = right side, sc = single crochet, st(s) = stitch(es), sp(s) = space(s), sl st = slip stitch, rep = repeat, yrh = yarn round hook.
Row 1: Ch4 (counts as 1dc & 1ch), working into ring, 3dc, ch2, 3dc, ch1, 1dc, turn. – [1 st & 1 clu per side] Row 2: Ch4, 3dc in first ch-sp, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in next 2ch-sp, (3dc, ch1, 1dc) in last ch-sp, ch col, turn. – 1 st & 2 clu per side] Row 3: Ch4, 3dc in first ch-sp, 3dc in next sp between clu, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in 2ch-sp, 3dc in next sp, (3dc, ch1, 1dc) in last ch-sp, ch col, turn. – 1 st & 3 clu per side, increasing by 1 clu each row] Rows 4 – 55: Ch4, 3dc in first ch-sp, *3dc in next sp; rep from * to centre 2ch-sp, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in next 2ch-sp, *3dc in next sp; rep from * to last ch-sp, (3dc, ch1, 1dc) in last ch-sp, ch col, turn. – 1 st & 55 clu per side]
Easy Crochet Scallop Edging
To achieve the edging in the granny triangle shawl pattern, make sure you have an odd number of granny stripe rows. This way, your scallops will hit their mark in all the right places. Note: You can choose which is the right side to work on at this point
Row 1 (R/S): Ch1, *1dc in first ch-sp, 7dc in next ch-sp; rep from * to centre 2ch-sp, 9dc in centre 2ch-sp, *1dc in next ch-sp, 7dc in next ch-sp: rep from to last ch-sp, 1dc in last ch-sp, fasten off and do not turn. – [27 scallops per side + 1 in center] Row 2 (R/S): Working in the BLO, with right side facing you, join new yarn, ch1, *1sc in each dc st, sl st in dc; rep from * to last st, 1sc, fasten off and cut yarn. Sew in ends. You probably shouldn’t wait until the very end to sew in all ends. There are a lot!!! Sew in a couple every few rows to save yourself from the madness.
If you go wrong, it’s not the end of the world. My shawl has mistakes!! Watch my crochet podcast to see where I messed up!
And finally, this is a very simple granny triangle shawl, and one way to make it truly shine is to block it! It’s one extra step and so worth investing the time. Check out my blog all about blocking your crochet.
I Made a Crochet Granny Square Sweater & So Can You!
I’m going to write a little intro about my new crochet granny square sweater, but honestly, I’m too excited about it to make much sense! However, I will do my best to break everything down and provide as much information as possible, so that you can make your own colourful crochet sweater too.
Firstly, I must remember to give credit for the source of crafty inspiration. This crochet jumper, put together, block by block with happy little granny squares, has been inspired by theAriana Cardigan by Amy Christoffers. It’s a very popular pattern that combines knit & crochet stitches. Funnily enough, I was so intrigued by hybrid patterns for knitting and crochet that I’ve written a blog post about my favourite knitchet/croknit patterns.
Other makers have made jumper versions of the cardi, and they all looked so lovely (on the Rav project page), I was super enthused to make one of my own, in my own colours and actually, with my own granny square pattern.
If you want to make the Ariana cardigan, luckily for you, a pattern already exists and it’s free on Ravelry. What you’ll read here is more of a recipe for a jumper inspired by the original. Probably the only thing they have in common is that the granny squares are on the diagonal and the ribbing is knitted.
Whilst I downloaded the original Ariana cardigan and gave it a quick once over, I didn’t read or follow it for this sweater. Therefore, I don’t feel like it’s wrong to share what I did in recipe format.
The other reason for it being a recipe rather than a pattern for a crochet granny square sweater is that garments using granny squares are a nightmare to grade across different sizes. Blocks of squares aren’t fun to format into wearables, and like me, perhaps you can get a pretty good idea of how to make a granny jumper without a pattern.
Below, I share the charts I drew up for two sizes, both of which can be tweaked to make bespoke, unique crochet garments. I have also shared a few tips on ways to make adjustments to your crochet granny square sweater.
Step 1: Scroll down to charts and decide on large (64cm / 24inches wide) or small (48 cm / 19inches wide). Or make your own based on your measurements and the size of granny square you plan to use.
Step 2: For the large, dig out 700 grams /2000m /2120yds of DK stash in as many colours as you like, I recommend a minimum or 7 or so. The more colours you use, the more higgeldy piggeldy.
Step 3: With a 4mm hook (US G/6), crochet 54 squares and 15 triangles, working the final round with Join As You Go (JAYG) to join the sweater. Be careful at the sides and sleeves – use stitch markers to hold in place.
Step 4: With 4mm needles or hook, knit or crochet the ribbing.
Step 5: Sew in thousands of ends. I saved this until last in case I had to rip back any squares – eg to shorten verrry long sleeves. Actually, you can sew in the first 4 rounds of every single square and triangle before this stage….
What You Need to Make a Crochet Granny Square Sweater
I used double knit (DK) yarn for this patchwork crochet sweater, a 4mm hook and 4mm knitting needles. Tension is not a major issue, as this is a design that’s ideal for making it up as you go along.
Just because I used DK doesn’t mean that you have to. Technically, you can make this sweater in any yarn weight. It’s worth working up a few swatch squares in your preferred yarns to see if they work. You can also get a rough idea of how much yarn you’ll need by making a swatch or two. Don’t forget to add in enough for ribbing, too.
If you veer off from DK, you will likely need to think about the number of rounds per granny square. I’ll chat about my measurements in a sec, and that should inform you on sizing. If you’re thinking of working granny squares that are drastically different in size or yarn weight, you’ll end up with a crochet granny square sweater with different measurements. However, if you’re happy to draft your own charts, I fully support your experimentation by cheering from the side.
The Best Yarn for a Crochet Sweater
I think DK is perfect for a crochet sweater. If you go to heavier yarn weights, garments can start looking a bit clunky and heavy. Everyone is different, and we all have our own personal preferences, so at the end of the day, you can use your favourite weight of yarn. However, as garments go, DK is an awesome yarn weight. I love a lighter 4ply too, but for a crochet granny square sweater, 4ply yarn is more work as the squares would need to have more rounds to get them to the same size, and I kinda enjoyed this as the quick project that it was. Double-knit yarn is a good balance.
If you’re curious about different yarn weights and using something different, check out my blog post on Yarn Substitution.
The majority of my yarn stash here is wool I’d had for a number of years, which deserved to be part of a special crochet project. About five years ago, I treated myself to colourful skeins of merino from Folkestone Harbour Yarns. Then, to complement this collection, I matched it with rich brown shades from Loom Wool. It’s all gorgeous! I love that the browns are all slightly different; it adds a unique quality to my crochet sweater.
How Much Yarn Will You Need?
Make a granny square from a pattern that you’ll be using in your jumper (the one below, or other fave). If you’re being super diligent, wash and block it too. I’m not going to make you do this, but learning how to block crochet is useful for your garment-making endeavours. It determines final measurements (as well as other things), so it will help calculate sweater stats.
Weigh your square, and it will give you a fairly good idea of how much yarn you’ll need for the whole project. Multiply the weight of that one square by the final number of squares (don’t forget the triangles too). This is the total amount of yarn you’ll need.
Not gonna pretend I actually did this though. I just grabbed the lovely yarn stash I wanted to use up (and I am always going to have enough stash!). I think I used 10 colours plus the border colour. I made sure to have 4x 100 gram skeins of my joining colour, but there is plenty left.
The total weight of my finished jumper is just under 700 grams. I cannot recall the specific number, but I did weigh it especially for the YouTube video on making my crochet granny square jumper, so feel free to watch. I begrudgingly calculated yardage and meterage, too! Oof, from memory? Around 2000 metres/ 2120 yards.
The square that you make will also be useful to measure, so you can calculate the size of your sweater too (more on this below).
Cute Granny Square Pattern
There is only a slight change to the traditional granny square with this pattern, but it’s one I think makes a decent impact. The first round is eight dainty little petals rather than the standard four clusters. The following rounds are then just super simple granny clusters.
Find the granny square pattern here. The video tutorial that’s linked in that pattern is also useful to demonstrate the Join As You Go (JAYG) technique.
FYI, I have yet to determine how five rounds of this pattern compare to five rounds of a traditional granny square pattern. Just in case you assumed it was the same measurement. It might not be. *Shrugs*. Whatever the weather, these squares measure 16cm from corner point to corner point. As we’re working on the diagonal, this is the measurement you need.
The Granny Triangle Pattern
Because this crochet granny square sweater is worked with the squares on the diagonal, triangles are also required to straighten the bottom edges of the main body and sleeves. Find the free granny triangle pattern here.
For both the granny square and granny triangles, I worked four rounds of each, knowing I was going to work a 5th round as I crocheted JAYG. Oh, and it’s best to sew in your ends after Round 4 so you’re not left with a hideous job of sewing in yarn tails at the end. Like I was….
Granny Sweater Measurements
Having decided on a granny square pattern with five rounds in DK yarn, there were two choices: go for fitted or oversized.
I was slightly concerned that the smaller option would be too tight across my chest. Knowing the measurements of the squares, I think the smaller size would just about fit my body (99cm circ), but with very little “positive ease” – i.e. extra room. I dithered and doubted enough to opt for the oversized version. Charts for the oversized version I made and the smaller, fitted size that I’d like to make are both below.
The following measurements are taken after I washed and blocked my jumper.
Sweater Measurement Details
My oversized jumper is 4 diagonal squares wide. Remember that 16 = one square’s point to point measurement in cm. 4 x 16 is 64cm (approx 25 inches). Therefore, this is the width of my crochet granny square sweater.
The sweater length, including the waistband, should come in at 53/54cm after blocking. What with the weight of the yarn and the wear it’s had, the final length of my sweater is more like 57cm. I’m happy with that!
The final sleeve length (with cuff) is 44cm (approx 17.5 inches). These are shorter than I would ordinarily make. The drop shoulder construction, paired with the oversized width, means the sleeves start further down my arm. Originally, I hadn’t factored this into my plans as well as I’d thought. So the sleeves I initially made were clownishly long. Bum. Long story short, I ripped out a few squares at the sleeves. I had a terrible time doing this, but I made the effort to change them because I wanted to be satisfied (and happy) with the result. Sometimes it’s worth pushing through the difficult times!
The upper arm depth is 16cm; the measurement of one square on the diagonal. There’s a bit of stretch here, too. That’s OK.
It’s useful to note that should you wish to adjust the sleeve length or main body length by only a fraction, you can add or subtract ribbing rows. I think I went for 9 rounds of ribbing, but redid cuffs and only did 8 rounds the second time around.
Granny Sweater Chart – Square Layout
If I have done my counting correctly, for the size I made, I needed 54 granny squares and 15 triangles. On the chart above, I have shaded out sections along the top of the sleeves and sides for the “front”. These squares are already accounted for on the back section (they’re just folded round – watch the video at timestamp 34:00 to see what I mean).
The chart above was useful to work out the sweater schematic, but what I found even more useful was to lay it out how I actually intended to join the granny squares.
Take a look at the next image. When joining, I left the squares A to H to the end. These needed to be joined in two different places to bring everything together, going from a flat piece of crochet fabric into a 3-dimensional structure. For example, square B is joined (JAYG method) to the sleeve at both the green and blue sections.
Using plenty of stitch markers at this point is enormously helpful as well. I think I would have struggled without temporarily pre-joining squares before crocheting them together. Using stitch markers to pin everything together first allows you to see that you’re on the right track, showing that you haven’t accidentally joined a side of B to the main body instead of the sleeve. You can see how easy it might be to accidentally incorporate the side of E (pink line) into the B join, as it sits right next door!
I also chat about this in the granny sweater video from 31:04, Sometimes it is easier to see a visual of it.
The Smaller Granny Square Sweater Size
Yes, I do want to make a second crochet granny square sweater, and I would like a fitted version. The initial chart for this is drawn up below. I have reduced it by one block in the body and lengthened the sleeves. I have a reasonably good feeling that this will work. If I have to reduce the sleeve length back down, I will. I won’t mind too much! If you have short arms, stick to the shorter sleeve.
However, look at the neck and you’ll see it’s different. It’s deeper at the front, and I left a triangular space at the back of the neck. Ultimately, if I put that triangle back in, the neck space would be the same as the large size, but with more of the action at the front. This means a deeper V-neck and no shaping at the back neck. There’s room for playing around with this, I think.
The neck is surprisingly gapey before adding the ribbing; it would be suitable for several sizes. Play around with the number of ribbing rounds to make adjustments.
Potentially, a triangle could be added at the front to square off the neck into a kind of round neck. I mention this in the video, but watching it back, it just looks like I’m wearing the sweater back to front!
And where it says 49cm, ugh, it’s supposed to be 48. Oops.
Knitted Ribbing on a Crochet Sweater!!
I know!!? It’s crazy, I’m such a huge crochet fan, but I knew I was going to grab this opportunity to improve my knitting skills. From just the ribbing sections, I have learned loads! Not only did I remind myself how to pick up stitches, I also worked Magic Loop for the first time, and tried SSK for the V neck shaping.
For the 2×2 knitted ribbing, I use continental style knitting as it’s easier to switch between knit and purl stitches. It’s got to the point where I have forgotten how to purl in throwing style. Links for the tutorials I used are above, in the resources section.
Don’t get me wrong, I have a long way to go in my knitting journey. If you look closely, you’ll no doubt see that I’ve done a terrible job; regardless, I am thrilled!
Alternatively, there are absolutely loads of crochet ribbing stitches you can use too. You know I love crochet ribbing!!
Adjustments & Issues re “Winging It”
The sleeves! They were way too long for me in the beginning, and I had to make adjustments. If you’re unsure, think about the body width of the jumper. If you are aiming for oversized, take this into account as it will have an effect on sleeve length. Think about the total wrist-to-wrist measurement (up one arm, across the back, down the other arm). That’s the measurement you want to aim for. Not always easy to do.
If your upper arm circumference is larger than 30-32cm, you may wish to consider adding another row of squares at the sleeve to make them wider. This comes with added complications as the construction at the underarm will change. It’s not something I’ve looked at before. In my head, I’m thinking of an additional square to create shaping under the armpit?? Sorry, I don’t have a clear guide for that.
If this is too much of a headache or, indeed, creates deeper sleeves than you would like, this is the moment where you’ll want to question the measurement of a single square. The alternative is to add another round to all squares and triangles. This will deepen the arm depth but also increase the width and length of your final crochet granny square sweater. What would you go for?
Final Thoughts on Making a Crochet Granny Square Sweater
Oh, I have so many photos I could share, but we’d be here forever. It’s all the unpretty step-by-step progress shots that I’m not sure would be that useful. Things like before and after sleeve changes, such as the ones below. They’re reminders of learning and progress, which is good, I guess?
Oh go on then, let’s have a gallery of my new granny jumper!
What do you think? Has it raised more questions, or do you think this recipe will help you make your own crochet granny square sweater?
If you do have questions, please let me know in the comments section and I’l try to edit the post as and when I can.
I always start off thinking crocheting a garment in the “winging it” style will be fun and simple. Making the thing often is! In real terms, however, the writing up of the “recipe?” Goodness me, there are quite a few elements required, and there’ll always be something I’ve missed.
Let’s take a look at how to crochet a granny triangle. Below is a very speedy pattern that I’ve recently used for a crochet granny square sweater. You will also find my video tutorial for these granny triangles on YouTube.
When & How to Use a Crochet Granny Triangles.
Granny Triangles are useful for slotting between granny squares, allowing you to create crochet projects on the diagonal. By which I mean, rather than having lots of granny squares in rows, they’re placed in a diamond formation. To square things off, granny triangles fit neatly between the rotated squares.
Granny triangles would be great in crochet bunting, too. Or, make four large triangles and join them together for an interesting twist on a granny square blanket!
Now that my new jumper is finished, I’m thinking of potential new projects. Imagine a colourful granny square blanket edged with triangles! I do not need a new blanket, I do not need a new blanket….
The colourful, harlequin image above (the one with the ribbing being knitted) is this biased/diamond construction. You’ll see the row of triangles just underneath the ribbing. This granny triangle is the pattern used in that crochet jumper.
Things You Need to Crochet a Granny Triangle
This is a quick pattern and blog post today, so I won’t ramble on unnecessarily. I used double knitting yarn (DK) and a 4mm crochet hook. This is a stash buster, so gather your yarn scraps for this kind of project.
For ease and brevity, I am just using US terms here; note that a US dc (double crochet) is a UK tr (treble) stitch. You can substitute the initial chains and sl st with an adjustable ring (magic circle). When changing colour (every row), a Standing Start is a great alternative to a chain 3. Take a look at the matching granny square video tutorial from 05:12. It’s my fave, but you can keep to chains at the beginning of rows if you prefer. Note that the dc2tog creates what I refer to as a “petal” in the video tutorial.
To begin, chain 4 (I accidentally ch5 in the vid tutorial, but I forgive myself, it’s OK), join with a sl st to create a ring. Row 1: Ch4 (counts as 1 dc and 1ch here & throughout), into ring work *dc2tog, 2ch: rep from * 2 more times, dc2tog, ch1, 1dc, fasten off and cut yarn, do not turn. — 4 “petals” plus 1 st at each end.
Row 2: Ch4 [or 1SSt and ch1], 3dc in first 1ch-sp, 3dc in next 2ch-sp, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in centre 2ch-sp, 3dc in next 2ch-sp, (3dc, ch1, 1dc) in last 1ch- sp, do not turn. Fasten off and cut yarn. — 3 granny clusters per side plus 1 st at each end. An increase of 1 granny cluster per side is made for each following row.
Rows 3 & 4: Ch4 [or 1SSt and ch1], 3dc in first 1ch-sp, *3dc in next 2ch-sp; rep from * to centre sp, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in centre 2ch-sp, rep * to last 1ch-sp, (3dc, ch1, 1dc) in last 1ch-sp, do not turn. Fasten off and cut yarn.
Sew in ends. When it comes to joining granny triangles in a fancy new crochet project, they’re easier to manage with sewn-in ends. Trust me when I say it’s a colourful mess of uncontrollable spaghetti if you don’t!
And voila, it’s as simple as that! I hope you enjoy making plenty of crochet granny triangles. What sort of pattern will you use them in? A granny square sweater? Blanket? Or perhaps some jolly bunting?
Well, who knew that making a crochet hair scrunchie would turn into making two, three, four, five…?! These little stash busters are totally addictive! In truth, I’ve been making several scrunchies, adapting stitch counts as I go, to ensure the pattern has the perfect amount of ruffles. But even though this easy-peasy pattern has been perfected, it hasn’t stopped me from wanting more!
For speedy satisfaction, quick-fix crochet pattern ideas like these crochet hair bands are ideal when you don’t want to commit to a larger project. The free crochet pattern is below, eeek, I hope you like it!
If you’d like to know how to crochet around a hair tie, this is an easy project that you’ll enjoy making over and over again. I don’t need more, but I just can’t help imagining all the different colour combinations to try and all the different types of yarn that would look fabulous thrown together.
Stash Busting Hair Scrunchie: A Great Way to Use Yarn Scraps
The first iteration of the crochet hair scrunchie came about as I had leftovers from my Cirrus shawl. The crescent shawl uses two skeins of yarn: one lace-weight mohair and the other, a scrumptious DK boucle. There wasn’t much left of either as this shawl uses nearly all of both skeins. However, there were two walnut-sized balls leftover and therefore, ideal for a small crochet design. This version of the scrunchie doesn’t have as many stitches as the final pattern, so there weren’t enough ruffles for my liking. More ruffles, please!
Anyway, what can you do with little nuggets of yarn balls? All of those leftover yarn scraps? Tadah, crochet a ruffled hair scrunchie, of course!
No matter how many yarn scraps you have, you can throw them all into a design like this. The beauty of it is, is that you don’t need very much yarn at all. My heaviest crochet hair scrunchie uses just 15 grams of fingering-weight yarn. That’s only 60 metres!
What’s The Best Yarn For a Crochet Hair Scrunchie?
This design uses a lighter weight of yarn. It allows for more stitches and more ruffles without the bulk. You could change it up to a sport weight, perhaps even a double knit, but I think you’d have to reduce the number of stitches worked around the hair tie on the first round. This is possible to do, and it’s worth a try. However, do bear in mind that it could change the look of the scrunchie.
So, I recommend a fingering /sock weight yarn or 4ply, and when you’re feeling fancy, a lace weight mohair! You’ll need approximately 15 grams, which is 60 metres (66 yards) give or take.
For the most colourful crochet hair scrunchie, all of my smallest yarn scraps were gathered together. Anything from a couple of metres up to around 10 metres, these leftovers from other projects were all knotted together in a magic ball.
This technique is hard to describe in writing, however, I do have a video tutorial that demonstrates how to make a magic knot ball of yarn. It’s for another freebie pattern, but it’s the same knot tying that I used here. Watch from 1:08
I might also put together a quick Reel on Instagram to show you the steps on making a magic knot ball. I haven’t done it yet, wish me luck!
You don’t have to get yourself tied up in knots, though. I have made crochet hair scrunchies by only changing colour after a round or two. There is also nothing stopping you from making them all in one colour. Make them in all the colourful variations!
Using Mohair in Your Crochet Hair Scrunchie
Not everyone loves mohair yarn, but I do! I LOVE its fluffy warmth and delicate halo. I have amassed quite a lot of leftover mohair in my yarn stash, and it works perfectly for this crochet pattern. Actually, it’s not a badintroduction to using mohair yarn because it’s such a small project.
There are a couple of tips that make the experience even easier though. For the first round, where you crochet around the hair tie, use a non-fluffy fingering, sock or sport weight yarn. It’s not fiddly, whereas I think mohair would be for that round.
To make it even less fiddly, I don’t even bother working into the top of the mohair stitches but work in between them. That way, I can just shove the hook in between, and not so much precision is required. Have I ever mentioned that I am a supremely lazy crocheter?! Cutting corners can work sometimes… I didn’t do this for the fingering yarn hair tie though. You could if you wanted to.
Crochet Hair Scrunchie Pattern
Things You Need to Crochet a Hair Scrunchie
Please note that both US & UK patterns are below, make sure to choose the right one. You’ll need a 4mm crochet hook and some yarn scraps from your stash. Go for fingering /sock weight yarn or 4ply, or if you’re in the mood, a lace weight mohair. You’ll need approximately 15 grams, which is 60 metres (66 yards). For the mohair, I only used 11 grams.
And you’ll need a normal, everyday elastic hair tie. I have long hair, so loads are kicking about the house. I used them for this, but I do need to buy some more. You can get ones with bamboo in them, which is great.
Plan on changing colour? I usually just introduce the new colour on the last “yarn over” of the last stitch of a round. Then the new colour is then ready to go. Or use another favourite method of your choice.
Scrunchie Pattern US Terms
This pattern is written in US terms – scroll a bit further for the UK version. Rnd 1: 60sc around a hair tie, join with a sl st, do not turn. [60 sts] Rnd 2: Ch3 (counts as a stitch here & throughout), 1dc in same st, 2dc in each st around, join to the first st with a sl st, do not turn. [120 sts] Rnd 3: As Round 2. (240 sts) Rnd 4: Ch3, 1dc in same st, 1dc in next st, *2dc in next st, 1dc in next; rep from * around, join with a sl st, do not turn. [360 sts]
You can fasten off here or change to a contrasting colour or contrasting texture of yarn, perhaps a thicker mohair or boucle yarn.
Rnd 5: Ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch), sc in first st, ch1, miss a st, *sc in next st, ch1, miss a st; rep from * around, join to first st with a sl st. Fasten off and sew in ends (On my next scrunchie, I plan on adding 2 chains between each single crochet to see what that looks like. I think it’ll create a really nice finish.)
Scrunchie Pattern UK Terms
This pattern is written in UK terms – scroll up for the US version. Rnd 1: 60dc around a hair tie, join with a sl st, do not turn. [60 sts] Rnd 2: Ch3 (counts as a stitch here & throughout), 1tr in same st, 2tr in each st around, join to the first st with a sl st, do not turn. [120 sts] Rnd 3: As Round 2. (240 sts) Rnd 4: Ch3, 1tr in same st, 1tr in next st, *2tr in next st, 1tr in next; rep from * around, join with a sl st. [360 sts]
You can fasten off here or change to a contrasting colour or contrasting texture yarn, perhaps a thicker mohair or boucle yarn.
Rnd 5: Ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch), dc in first st, ch1, miss a st, *dc in next st, ch1, miss a st; rep from * around, join to first st with a sl st. Fasten off and sew in ends. (On my next scrunchie, I plan on adding 2 chains between each double crochet to see what that looks like. I think it’ll create a really nice finish.)
Isn’t that a great pattern for crocheting from stash?! I ruddy love a crochet pattern that uses up scrap yarn!
If you make your crochet hair scrunchie, please let me know. You could add them to your project page on Ravelry too, that way I get to see what you’ve made!
Have you noticed a recent increase in knit and crochet combo patterns? I have started to see more designs popping up on Instagram and Ravelry that combine both crafts, and I don’t mind at all! I think it’s a yarn trend for this year, and I am here for it. I’m ready and willing to give it a go! In fact, I have a granny square sweater on my needles as I type. Eek!
Knit & Crochet Combo Patterns Together
Patterns that combine knitting and crochet have been around for ages. Looking through my collection of vintage crochet books, it is definitely not new. In those books, the focus is obviously crochet, but they are often finished with knitted ribbing. Maybe that’s because more makers were multi-crafted a few decades ago. Perhaps it’s because crochet ribbing wasn’t up to scratch, which isn’t the case today (no old-school crochet dictionaries that I own show half thecrochet ribbing stitches you see in patterns today, and I own a lot of crochet stitch dictionaries!).
Many new makers who learned knitting and crochet during lockdown might still be exploring the first crafts they picked up. I wonder if now is the time crafters are taking the next step and picking up the hook, now that they’ve mastered the needles, and vice versa?
What feels new is the merging of the two crafts within the same design. It is becoming popular again, and this time it is more of an intentional design choice. Knit & Crochet combo patterns are on my radar. Are they on yours?
Through research on Ravelry, Pinterest and the internet in general, I have spotted a few excellent designs for knit & crochet combo patterns. It’s fantastic to see knitwear designers embracing crochet, and I think that’s part of the resurgence. Crochet has become cool and is way more appreciated as a craft in its own right.
What’s interesting with the latest knit/crochet combination designs is that neither one is always the star of the show. In these dual craft combos, there is an equal mix in that it isn’t always crochet with the knitted ribbing, or knitting with a lace crochet edging. I love that those designs exist, but a lot of recent mixed patterns feature granny squares sharing a space with knitted stitches, for example. This is cause for a happy crafter to celebrate! I absolutely love a granny square, but if you don’t, there are other cro-knit /knit-chet (?!) patterns for you too.
Learning New Knitting & Crochet Skills
One of the things that has won me over about combining knitting and crochet in one pattern is that it provides the opportunity to learn new skills. It keeps it in the yarny sphere, so nothing is entirely alien, but it also offers the building blocks for new techniques. It’s super exciting, and that’s coming from someone who grew up with both.
For some reason, as an adult, I travelled on the path of crochet (despite struggling to learn it when I was little). I abandoned knitting as a teenager and forgot most of the skills that my Nanna taught me. Slowly but surely, I am ready to pick up two needles again. Under my belt, I have the basics, but I want more. A way for me to do this comfortably is to incorporate learning how to knit into my crochet.
I am hoping to learn about the differences in gauge and yarn consumption. And I’m expecting to learn from my mistakes – hello dropped stitches! There will, no doubt, be some surprises, and I’m looking forward to that. I am curious about short rows, and picking up stitches from crochet to then start knitting ribbing. So far so good. I remember picking up stitches before!
Hopefully, I will share more of my own adventures soon enough, but for now, let’s take a look at examples of the knit & crochet combo patterns there are…
Patterns That Combine Knitting & Crochet Stitches
I’ve compiled a few patterns combining knitting and crochet below. However, you may also wish to take a look at the Ravelry Bundle for Knit & crochet combo patterns here. There are more fabulous designs in the bundle. However, if you know of any other gooduns, please let me know in the comments. I’d love to hear from you.
Granny Squares in Knitting
I’m grouping some granny square patterns together because knitting designs that incorporate granny clusters are riding high. Granny squares are a popular beginner project for new crocheters, so it makes sense that they’re a bit of a gateway drug for folks who are already expert knitters.
Bubble Pop Wrist Warmers
First up, here we have the Bubble Pop Wrist Warmers by Jen Yard. This pattern made me do a double-take, crikey, I am in love! Jen is known as Everything Shapes Us on Instagram and is a queen when it comes to stash-busting and yarn scraps. These wrist warmers feature dainty little granny squares surrounded by stockinette stitch. The bobbles are worked using a crochet hook.
I plan on making these one day. I have already made a pair that is 100% crochet (eyeballed it), but I think I can stretch my knitting skills for these beauties.
The Geddy Tee
Tanis Lavallee of Tanis Fibre Arts is clearly having a fabulous time with granny squares at the moment with three knit & crochet combo patterns. First came Fleetwood, followed by Jethro. This is the Geddy Tee, which creatively uses granny squares within the saddle shoulder.
I really enjoyed Tanis’s podcast episode where she talked about designing with granny squares. She hits the nail on the head. It’s called Mixing Crochet and Knit in one Garment.
Ariana Crochet (and Knit!) Cardigan
Ariana, by Amy Christoffers, is the source of inspiration for my current knit/crochet project. I am making a jumper version of the Ariana Cardigan and have already completed and joined all my granny squares. Earlier today, I picked up the stitches around the waistband to try knitting the ribbing instead of my usual crochet ribbing. I’d be faster at crochet, but like I said, I want to improve my knitting skills.
This granny square cardi has nearly 1000 projects on Ravelry. Wow!
Prairie Skies Sweater
Ooh la la, just look at the Prairie Skies sweater!! It’s a gorgeous mix of a granny square yoke and stockinette stitch for the main body. I want to make this so I can learn how to knit short rows.
This amazing crochet/knit pattern is by Imke Von Nathusius and featured in Pom Pom Quarterly. It is also available to purchase on its own. I reeaaally want to make this, and it has been in my Ravelry favourites since its release in 2023.
Knitting With Crochet Edging
The Adventure Bandana
With 90% of the knitting population making a Sophie Scarf or ten, it isn’t surprising to see similar scarf patterns popping up in knitting and crochet designs. I have been making the same Sophie Shawl for about three years, and nearly finished. Once I’m done, I’d love to give this knitting pattern a try. Pictured below is the Adventure Bandana by Jodi Brown of the Grocery Girls.
The options for different crochet edgings are fab, they all look brilliant and super achievable if crochet is new to you. I am the other way around, it’s knitting that I’m not so good at, but this pattern? I could totally make this!
Fun fact, I remember when Lily was asking how to measure “nip to nip” when designing this top. Turns out the proper term is “apex”. Whatever the term, the construction of this pretty vest is impressive. This is a pattern for those with more knitting and garment-making experience, but once I’m down the road a bit, yep, I’d make this!
Other Knit & Crochet Combo Patterns
The cute 373 cardigan is by Pierrot Yarns, a company that makes lots of knitting and crochet patterns, including several that combine both crafts. This one is for crocheters who are happy to knit a small section to elevate this delicate design. This is super wearable and I need to make one, one day.
Where does one person find the time to make everything they fall in love with?!
Link Tee
A crochet yoke with knitted body; this kind of combo design works really well. The Link Tee, by Tomomo Yoshimoto is modern and very wearable indeed. It highlights the best of both knitting and crochet without either overshadowing the other. It has a structural elegance that only both can provide. Loves it!
I have chosen this Marie Wallin design as my last picture to share with you, as Marie is a prolific knitwear designer. In amongst her catalogue is a collection of knit and crochet combo patterns. Anemone is one of my favourites, but there are several that cover all seasons. This one is beautiful and summery, but Marie has also designed a winter collection too.
Want More Knit & Crochet Combo Patterns?
Don’t forget to take a look at the Ravelry bundle that has some of my favourite patterns that combine knitting and crochet. I would love to add more too, so if you know any that look completely amazing, please do let me know.
Honestly, I swear this is a new trend that we’ll see more of over the coming year or two. As crochet becomes more popular amongst knitters and in the crafting community in general, it only seems like a natural direction for designers to explore.
What do you think? Am I barking up the wrong hook? Let me know what you think!
This blog post is an overview of what blocking crochet means. It’ll be a quick guide to cover all the basics without, fingers crossed, being too hardcore about it. However, there are a couple of things included that are slightly more than “basic”. Forgive me, I couldn’t bring myself to leave out any of the info.
I also need to get through this whole post without writing “Blcoking”. Wish me luck.
Whilst I am not normally a stickler for the rules, I do believe that blocking is essential if you want your crochet to look its very best. You have gone to so much trouble to hook up hundreds of stitches, why not put in one last burst of energy to make your truly crochet shine! I feel that it’s a necessary evil. Blocking crochet makes your work stand out and look even more fantastic than it already is.
If you don’t want to read about this riveting subject, check out my video about blocking crochet. It covers very similar ground, plus it has some comparisons and demonstrations.
If you are relatively new to crochet, you could also read my overview about all the other things you need to learn how to crochet. Hopefully, you find that blog post useful. Aaaand, check out some more crochet tips and tricks here!
For the most part, I block all my crochet garments, as well as shawls, scarves, and cowls. I’ve also even been known to block a crochet hat — with a balloon!
First of all, the big question is: What is blocking? If you hear people talking about blocking crochet, what does that mean?
Blocking Your Crochet: An Overview
Blocking is about making the best of your crochet by using moisture, and sometimes heat, to set your stitches. It changes the fabric you have created into a new form.
When you block your new crochet project, it opens up and sets stitches into their final “look”. Depending on the yarn you’ve used, you can wash/soak, rinse and blot your crochet before pinning it out to dry. Or pin it out first, then steam or spray crochet fabric with water and leave it to dry. That’s all blocking is. You can pin crochet fabric out to particular measurements, but often, you can wing it.
Once a crochet item has been blocked, the fabric size and drape can be different to what your crochet looked and felt like before you dunked it in soapy water. Stitches can bloom open, and yarn softens beautifully. Blocking crochet creates a beautiful drape, and if you’re making a crochet garment, it will make sure that it fits how the design was intended.
Or, if you carelessly steam-block with an iron, you could melt your precious crochet. Please be careful!
Sleevless Crochet Tank Top: Ducky Fuzz, find the pattern on Ravelry and Etsy
What Tools Do You Need For Blocking Crochet?
You do not need ALL the gear. To begin, you can make do with just some basics. When I first started blocking my crochet projects, I used dressmaker’s pins and pinned my finished objects (FO) directly onto the carpet. If the carpet was lucky, I’d put a towel down first. These tools worked, but they were not ideal in the long term. I have since collected a few more items that make blocking crochet a lot easier. (Also, it isn’t advisable to use dressmaker’s pins, or pin directly onto carpet!)
When I realised that taking the extra steps to block my crochet items was worth it, I invested in what I think are the absolute basics: a handful of foam blocking mats and some proper blocking pins (ones that weren’t going to rust and ruin my precious crochet). You may also benefit from having a heavy dose of patience in your arsenal.
Blocking Mats
Blocking mats are usually square foam mats/boards that interlock to give you a suitably sized surface area. They provide a sturdy and protective surface onto which you pin out your crochet and knitting projects.
Buy them from the hardware store or supermarket. I know that some folks use children’s foam play mats effectively, and there are mats specifically designed for the job of blocking. Or, I’ve used a yoga mat quite effectively in the past, however, it is not as structured as a foam mat.
Blocking Pins
You can buy boxes of blocking specific pins. Choose ones that are designed for the job you need them for, like T-pins. Other pins will be too weak and possibly prone to rusting. You’ll likely be using moisture for blocking, so you need strong stainless steel pins.
Then, if you’re short on time or just lazy, knit blockers are a Godsend! They are little sets of sharp pins, held in plastic, that sit neatly together in a row. They make blocking crochet a bit more bearable if you ask me.
I have two boxes of the knit blockers and thinking that a third set might be wise. Two boxes can efficiently block one garment when it’s in pieces. I often block a couple of things at the same time, so need/want more.
If I don’t make it clear in my Blocking Crochet video on YouTube, place the pins at a slant, angling them outwards. This holds the tension better.
Blocking Boards
Blocking boards are great for granny squares. They are solid boards with holes so you can place little evenly spaced dowels to hold the tension of crochet squares and set them into shape.
Whilst I have a few different sized blocking boards like this, I confess that I don’t ever use them. I lost the dowels, which doesn’t help!
Blocking Wires
Blocking wires can be pricey, especially if you’re not going to use them frequently. They are my best friend when I block crescent shawls as they curve with the crochet.
These fine, bendable yet strong wires always ping back to their original form. They are another time saver as they negate the use of quite so many pins. They hold tension evenly along long stretches of fabric, and you only need to place the pins intermittently to hold the wires.
However, with some chunkier crochet projects, you can affect the fabric at the blocking stage because you’re blocking the blocking itself, if that makes sense!? In other words, thicker yarns can be pushed out of shape if you thread the wires in and out of the edges. It can create and little wavey ripple along the edge, and you don’t want that.
Therefore, you kind of have to pick and choose what tools you use for the type of crochet project that you’re blocking. Take a look at the YouTube video about Blocking Crochet (around the 48 minute mark). You’ll see a cowl with a scallop edge. Take note of the edge with the wire versus the pinned edge. Do you see what I mean about the wibble edge?
Before I bought the wires, I used to use knitting needles! Got away with them for the lace weight & sock weight shawl (below) but not the best tools for the job!
The Mya Shawl by Helda Panagary – blocked with Nanna’s old knitting needles!
A Steamer
You don’t need a steamer if you have an iron with a steam function, but I found myself steaming things more than ironing. I no longer know where my iron is since I purchased my steamer. They are a better tool for the job of blocking if you can justify having one.
When you have pinned out your crochet to the measurements you want, the steamer is waved across the fabric, just above it (you don’t want to get too close as there’s a risk of overdoing it).
Once you have gone over the surface areas of the crochet, leave it to dry, and then it’ll be ready.
A Mister for Spray Blocking
I have a spray bottle that is a real work horse, used in cutting the boys’ hair, misting plants and mostly, spray blocking my crochet! This is the “laziest” of the three main methods. More on this in a sec…
A Pool Noodle!?
Oh, I have a pool noodle cut in half for when I block things where a crease would upset me!! Take a look at the bobble cowl pic (below) from my Mix & Match crochet cowl pattern. I don’t whip these out very often, but you can see why they might be useful for some crochet pieces! If they roll towards each other, pop in a few pins in appropriate places to stop them.
Hap Frames for Blocking
Blocking frames are predominantly used by knitters who make hap shawls. I made a crochet hap shawl called the Barton Hap, which featured in John Arbon Textiles Annual 3. My father-in-law very kindly made me a blocking frame so that I could block the two hap shawls I made. They were huge and, without the frame, they would have been really tricky to block. Storing the drying shawls in an upright position was so much better than having them spread across a floor space.
I still employed the wires, too, as there weren’t enough dowels for all the crochet peaks around the edge of the shawl. The crochet shawl needed to be taut, like a drum, so I evenly pulled (somewhat aggressively) and secured the fabric in place. I watched a few YouTube videos to learn how to do this.
A hap frame to block square shawls
Methods to Block Crochet
There are three main ways to block crochet. The method I choose largely depends on what fibre I have been working with. Whichever method you choose, it is advisable to work up a swatch in the yarn you’ve used in your crochet project and block that in your chosen method. How does the swatch react? Because that’s likely to be how your FO (finished object) is going to act.
The chances are that you have to make a swatch anyway, as you will want to measure your gauge accurately. Blocking your tension square in the same way you intend to block final crochet items will give you the information you need. If you’re following a pattern, the gauge info and final measurements will be included, and these give makers an idea of how something should be blocked.
Also, don’t forget to check the yarn label for care instructions before embarking on any kind of blocking.
Blocking mercerised cotton pieces for a fitted crochet top
TLDR Crochet Blocking Methods
In just a moment, I’ll go over each method in more detail, but generally, the three main ways of blocking crochet are:
WET BLOCKING. This is great for natural fibres (wools and cottons alike). It doesn’t work for acrylic as the material ignores the moisture and stretching, and will ping back to its original state. You need to be careful during the process of wet blocking as this feels like the stage when your precious stitches are at their most vulnerable. The fabric stretch will be really evident, so be gentle. The results are usually fantastic.
STEAM BLOCKING. This uses heat as well as stretch to fix crochet fabric. You don’t need to pre-wash, just pin out onto blocking mats to the shape and measurements you need. Use a steamer for the moisture to penetrate the fibres. The mix of heat and moisture will help set the stitches. Be careful with this one; it’s great for acrylic blends, but the heat manipulates acrylic fibres so you could melt or “kill” the fabric.
SPRAY BLOCKING. You have pinned out your crochet already. Next, use a mister (spray bottle) to spritz water over the fabric and leave it to dry. This is another method for natural fibres and won’t work for acrylic yarn. The more gentle nature of spray blocking means it’s a good method for first timers.
Pinning Out Your Crochet
Regardless of the blocking method, 99.9% of the time, you will pin out your crochet. Once you have started pinning out, you may need to adjust and play around with the placement. That’s OK. It happens all the time. Start somewhere in the middle rather than a far end/corner. You can then work outwards towards the ends/corners, which tends to help balance everything better. If you find yourself fannying about too much, step away and then reevaluate.
Use plenty of pins, and/or the sets of blockers. If you use too few pins, then dips between each pointy fixture might get set into the final piece.
That action of pinning out means the crochet fabric will have stretched out a little bit.
Aggressive Blocking?
There are different levels of stretch and pull when pinning out crochet fabric. As with the Barton Hap shawl, which was aggressively blocked on the frame, some crochet stitches and yarn combos look best when they are pulled and stretched into shape. Lace work looks and feels delicate and dainty, but I have often found that these types of crochet fabrics are the ones that need a good seeing to.
That tension creates the drape that is required in a shawl. It might not be so good for a garment as it could end up looking saggy when it isn’t supposed to fit that way. In my experience, you shouldn’t be quite so forceful with garment pieces. A little bit of tension is fine to set those pieces.
If in any doubt about the level of force required in pulling out the fabric, go easy first. It’s less heartbreaking to block a second time, using a bit more welly, than it is to overdo it on the first go. However, I am probably fearmongering here, I don’t think I’ve ever messed up by overstretching.
Wet Blocking
I always follow the same process to wet block my crochet pieces: The bathroom basin is filled with warm water and a small splash of wool wash soap. The crochet is either left to its own devices, or I help it along by pressing it down into the water. Then it’s a case of leaving it to soak for a bit.
Some say that you should leave it for 20-30 minutes to really allow the water to get into the fibres. I say, once it’s wet, it’s wet. And so I only leave it for a few minutes. I might walk off and do something else for quarter of an hour, by which time it should be ready for a rinse.
Fill the sink with clean water and submerge again. Then say goodbye to the wet stuff and gently squeeze your crochet of all the excess water. Do not twist or wring the fabric. Instead, it helps to blot your crochet fabric in a towel. Just roll it up into a sausage and dolly step along the rolled up towel.
Then it’s time to pin everything out onto blocking mats.
I have found that many wet blocked garments can be blocked by their own weight and I don’t necessarily need to use pins. A garment can be laid out flat onto the mats (with or without a towel on top of the mats – it dries quicker with one) and the whole process of washing is enough for the jumper (or whatever) to relax into its new state. However, there are times when the fabric needs a little help.
Wet Blocking Crochet, an Example
Pre-blocking, I was a little worried about the fit of my Little Fluffy Clouds cardigan (pictured below) as the puff stitches were a little tight and the sleeves were a teensy bit too short. Pins were needed to ensure the fabric was stretched more. I needed to be a fractionally more aggressive on this occasion.
Shawls always need pins, they’re not weighty enough to do the job on their own. Stretching and pinning out creates a tidier shape, superior drape and opens up lacey stitches.
pre blocking – bit tight. sleeves slightly too shortpost blocking – relaxed and sleeves fit
Steam Blocking
I steam block crochet that uses acrylic blends (eg, acrylic mixed with wool). Steam works best for the blended yarns, as it treats all the fibres with heat. I’ve used it for cotton too and that’s worked very nicely.
As previously mentioned, there is no need to pre-wash an FO before pinning out if you’re going to steam block.
Steam blocking is often recommended for acrylic fibres, but I will be completely honest here. Whenever I have made crochet clothes with 100% acrylic fibre, I haven’t bothered blocking at all! After a few visits to the washing machine, an acrylic sweater kind of blocks itself. Plus, it prevents the risk of melting with too much heat, which doesn’t happen unless you’re overzealous with the steam.
Hold the steamer an inch or two above your crochet so it doesn’t get the full intensity of heat. Then leave to dry.
Spray/Spritz Blocking
Spray blocking is for light shawls and things that don’t need too much work. Pin out and spritz with water. It doesn’t take very long, and once a project has had a thorough spray of wet stuff, I can walk away and forget about it.
For steaming and spraying, do so away from electrical appliances and plug sockets. And anything else you don’t want to get wet.
Bonus Blocking Methods
If you have a newly made sweater and it’s 100% acrylic, steam will be the most effective. However, I don’t like the threat of my hard crochet work being “killed”, so you could try this easy-peasy method instead. The gentle, low heat of a tumble dryer, after you’ve washed your garment, can be enough to relax the fibres a little bit. Note! I don’t advise this for natural fibres.
Does hanging crochet blankets from the washing line count? I haven’t done this as I’m worried of an uneven finish. The weight seems to pull from each peg and could distort blankets, so I’ve avoided this method. I rarely block blankets tbh. Over time, general use seems to relax them into shape, and I seriously cannot be bothered to block a giant blanket. Eh!
Disco Stitches Sampler scarf. One for steam blocking (acrylic blend, left) and one wet blocked (merino, right)
Do You Need to Block Every Time You Wash Crochet?
The YouTube video about blocking crochet has been up for a couple of weeks, and the other day, I received a very good question: Do you have to block crochet after each wash? The answer is, you can if you want! Occasionally, a crochet project might shrink back a little, or the stitches become a little bit less pronounced. I have repinned and reblocked shawls in the past (if I’ve felt they needed a bit of attention).
However, if it’s for a hand-made garment, you probably don’t need to. It depends on how you can wash it. If you’re washing a crochet sweater made of non-superwash wool, you’ll likely need to hand wash and then dry flat. No pins necessary.
Look at your crochet item, is it a bit lifeless? Would reblocking make it snazzy again? If yes, sure, reblock. It’s up to you.
Which is Your Favourite Method of Blocking Crochet?
Ooh! What a lot of information to take in, especially if you have no previous experience of blocking! I hope it wasn’t too much? Despite it being an overview, there is a lot to cover in blocking crochet! Hopefully, I have covered all the elements. If it raises any questions, please do let me know.
Do you think you’re more likely to try blocking now? Does one method seem easier than another? Which is your favourite? Do you have any other tips for blocking crochet?
Whatever your views are on the subject, I do think it is 100% worth the effort. It doesn’t have to be a scary or time-consuming thing. An extra day or two of drying time to have even better crochet? Yes please!
And I finish this blog post with a cry of despair: How many times must I write that word??! I have mispelled “blcoking” entirely throughout this post, and to make matters worse, my auto correct was on the fritz – sad times.
