Author: Zeens and Roger

Barking Mad – A Houndstooth Stitch Scarf

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Easy Crochet Scarf. Houndstooth stitch scarf pattern from Zeens and Roger

Crochet Houndstooth Scarf

I LOVE the crochet Houndstooth Stitch and doesn’t it look great in a scarf?!! It is an all-time favourite that deserves to be visited on a regular basis. In fact, one day I should write a love letter to it, it’s that good. And by love letter, I mean a blog post of its very own, a dedication to my love of the Houndstooth stitch!

It is such a simple crochet stitch pattern; just two basic little stitches. When you introduce two colours, on top of each other in tidy rows, a little bit of magic happens. It’s so pretty! US single and double crochets (AKA UK double and treble crochets) sit together in pairs to replicate the classic textile of the same name.

Depending on which side you look at the fabric, one colour will dominate and that’s one of the things that makes it such a delight.

This crochet houndstooth stitch scarf pattern is part of a set that’s not yet released. Together, they will be henceforth known as Barking Mad. I am not sharing it all today. I am saving the rest for a later date. On the horizon are a couple of other accessories that will join this awesome crochet scarf pattern.

I made the Barking Mad scarf a few weeks ago but have not had the time to show it off. Instagram tells me that I was working on it in November 2024! Feels like ages ago!

Due to a busy December and a surprisingly busy January too, I haven’t been able to publish it. I am still struggling for time so the rest of the Barking Mad set will be released in a few weeks. Probably to coincide with the weather getting nicer, typical!

Houndstooth Crochet Scarf – The Yarn.

To make your own easy crochet houndstooth stitch scarf, you need two colours of yarn. To make it extra special, I introduced a lace-weight mohair yarn to hold with two indie-dyed skeins of sock-weight yarn.

This weekend is the Unravel Yarn Festival in Farnham and funnily enough, I purchased both of the main yarns at the festival. Each skein weighs 100 grams. The beautiful blue is a yarn I bought from Spectrum Fibre at Unravel in 2019. The label tells me it is a Twisted Sock (love a high twist yarn!!) called Little Blue Dress. Then, I went again last year and bought a skein from Bona Yarns called Mostisky. I think that’s the name. That one isn’t a high twist but when paired with the mohair, you can’t tell that they are a different yarn base.

In stash, I had mohair to closely match both shades. Seeing as mohair normally comes in 25 gram balls, I needed two balls of each colour (typically, for every 50g of sock or fingering weight yarn, you need 25g of lace-weight mohair. Most of the time I use Drops Kid Silk mohair as it is reasonably priced.

If you have never used fluffy yarn to crochet with, read my top tips for using mohair here. It is one of my favourite things to do to achieve beautiful crochet makes.

You do not have to use mohair with your chosen yarn. This Houndstooth stitch scarf will look fabulous in most yarns. I think a Merino DK yarn would be awesome and I want to make one soon. Just make sure you use the appropriate sized hook for the yarn you choose. (For a DK, that would most likely be a 4mm crochet hook).

Barking Mad. Houndstooth Stitch Scarf

Special Crochet Stitches

There are a couple of things that you will find useful when following the scarf pattern. Here are some special crochet stitches that I use.

Stacked Start (SSt) – How to Start the Crochet Rows:

This is instead of starting rows by chaining, it avoids that pesky hole at the ends of the fabric. So much better than chaining 3!
Here is how to crochet a Stacked Start: Insert hook in first st, yarn over [yo] and pull through, yo and pull through both loops on hook (it helps to gently pinch the st at this point to make the next stage easier), *insert hook in left leg of the st (the pinch helps the back loop to become looser and more visible), yo and pull through, yo and pull through both loops; rep one more time from *.
Watch this crochet video for a Stacked Start (time stamp 5:12). Note that for this houndstooth stitch scarf I did not bother working in the loop behind. 

US dc3tog / UK Tr3tog (a decrease):

Yo hook, insert hook into first st, yo & pull through (3 loops on hook), yo, pull through 2 loops, yo, insert into next st, yo & pull through (4 loops on hook), yo, pull through 2 loops (3 loops on hook), yo, insert into next st, yo & pull through 2 loops, yo and pull through all loops.

(Stacked) Beg of Row US dc3tog / UK tr3tog:

Insert hook in first st, yo and pull through, yo and pull through both loops on hook (it helps to gently pinch the st at this point to make the next stage easier), insert hook in left leg of the st and the loop behind it (the pinch helps the back loop to become looser and more visible), yo and pull through (2 loops on hook), yo and insert hook into next st, yo and pull through (4 loops on hook), yo and pull through 2 loops (3 loops on hook), yo and insert hook in next st, yo and pull through (5 loops on hook), yo and pull through 2 loops (4 loops on hook), yo and pull through all loops.

This decrease to start rows is demonstrated in the same video as linked above. Watch from 9:40.

Barking Mad Houndstooth Stitch Scarf Pattern

Oky poky, you want to crochet this easy peasy crochet scarf? If, like me, you are using two pretty coloured sock-weight yarns held with mohair, reach for a 3.75mm hook.

Note that it is a lot easier to use a couple of stitch markers at the beginning and end of rows. Move them up each row. I often don’t bother with them but here, I found the decrease stitches a bit tricksy to see so a stitch marker identifies exactly where the first and last stitches of a row are. PM means place marker. MM means move marker.

Also, note that you want to carry the yarn so you don’t have to sew in loads of ends. What that means is you crochet over the non-working yarn as you go. Gently give it a little tug every now and then so it’s not too loose. But don’t pull so tight that it scrunches up your scarf. Keep the tension even.

To change colour, pull it through on the last yarn over of the previous row. Then you are ready to start the next row with the new colour.

Houndstooth Scarf Pattern

As the instructions are quite brief, below are separate patterns for US and UK crochet terminology. I assume you know the more standard terms. Special stitches are above, you have scrolled past them….

Crochet Scarf Pattern US terms

With YA, make a magic ring or ch3 and join with sl st.
Row 1: (1SSt, 2dc) into the ring, turn. – [3 sts]
2: (1SSt, 2dc) in first st, 1dc in next st, 3dc in last st, turn. – [7 sts]
3: With YB, (1SSt, 2dc) in first st, 1sc in next st, *1dc, 1sc; rep from * to last st, 3dc in last st, turn. – [11 sts]
4: With YA, (1SSt, 1dc, 1sc) in first st, 1dc in next st, *1sc, 1dc; rep from * to last st, (1sc, 2dc) in last st, turn. – [15 sts]
5- 15: Rep Rows 3 & 4 ending with Row 3. – [59 sts]
16: With YA, (1SSt, 1dc, 1sc) in first st, 1dc in next st, *1sc, 1dc; rep from * to last 3 sts, dc3tog, turn.
17: With YB, Beg of Row dc3tog, PM, 1sc in next st, *1dc, 1sc; rep from * to last st, 3dc, turn.
18- 128: Rep Rows 16 & 17, ending with Row 16. – [59 sts]
129: With YB, Beg of Row dc3tog, PM, 1sc in next st, *1dc, 1sc; rep from * to last 3 sts, dc3tog, turn. – 55 sts.
130: With YA, Beg of Row dc3tog, PM, 1dc in next st, *1sc, 1dc; rep from * to last 3 sts, dc3tog, turn – [51 sts].
131 – 141: Rep Rows 129 & 130, ending with Row 129 – [7 sts]
142: With YA, Beg of Row dc3tog, – [3sts]
143: Beg of Row dc3tog.
Fasten off and cut yarn.

Crochet Scarf Pattern UK terms

With YA, make a magic ring or ch3 and join with sl st.
Row 1: (1SSt, 2tr) into the ring, turn. – [3 sts]
2: (1SSt, 2tr) in first st, 1 tr in next st, 3tr in last st, turn. – [7 sts]
3: With YB, (1SSt, 2tr) in first st, 1dc in next st, *1tr, 1dc; rep from * to last st, 3tr in last st, turn. – [11 sts]
4: With YA, (1SSt, 1tr, 1dc) in first st, 1tr in next st, *1dc, 1tr; rep from * to last st, (1dc, 2tr) in last st, turn. – [15 sts]
5- 15: Rep Rows 3 & 4 ending with Row 3. – [59 sts]
16: With YA, (1SSt, 1tr, 1dc) in first st, 1tr in next st, *1dc, 1tr; rep from * to last 3 sts, tr3tog, turn.
17: With YB, Beg of Row tr3tog, PM, 1dc in next st, *1tr, 1dc; rep from * to last st, 3tr, turn.
18- 128: Rep Rows 16 & 17, ending with Row 16. – [59 sts]
129: With YB, Beg of Row tr3tog, PM, 1dc in next st, *1tr, 1dc; rep from * to last 3 sts, tr3tog, turn. – 55 sts.
130: With YA, Beg of Row tr3tog, PM, 1tr in next st, *1dc, 1tr; rep from * to last 3 sts, tr3tog, turn – [51 sts].
131 – 141: Rep Rows 129 & 130, ending with Row 129 – [7 sts]
142: With YA, Beg of Row tr3tog, – [3sts]
143: Beg of Row tr3tog.
Fasten off and cut yarn.

Blocking Your Crochet

I think blocking your crochet is important and adds extra impact. It neatens up the fabric and sets the stitches. All I did to block this scarf was to pin it out on the blocking mats and run a bit of steam over the top of it. Once it was dry, the drape was immense!

Eh, a houndstooth stitch scarf may not require the attention of blocking but I do think it is worth the extra effort to ensure you get the best out of your crochet.

Houndstooth Stitch Scarf crochet pattern with mohair yarn

Keep scrolling for a sneak peek at one of the other Barking Mad accessories.

Houndstooth stitch scarf crochet pattern

And that’s it! What do you think? I really hope you like this crochet houndstooth stitch scarf as I think it’s an absolute doozy!! And if you like my crochet work, have you checked out my other free crochet patterns?

Easy Crochet Earmuffs

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Crochet earmuffs and a crochet sweater!

Granny Stitch Circles

I get very cold and hurty ears at this time of year and so, to combat the chill, I have made myself some easy crochet earmuffs! This pattern is a very quick make and was inspired by my recent free crochet pattern for a granny stripe hat. It uses exactly the same pattern to begin.

Just before I cancelled Amazon Prime a couple of weeks ago, I hastily bought a couple of cheap pairs of fluffy earmuffs as I knew they’d be great for satisfying my urge for this quick-fix crochet project. This earmuffs pattern is also a great yarn stashbuster (I do love a stash buster!).

The only problem I have had so far is getting my choice of yarn colours right. I have been torn between all the possible combinations. It is so difficult to choose favourites sometimes! However, I had to draw a line in the sand and just make them. But, the nature of this design, is that you can make several pairs and swap them over depending on your mood. A crochet win!

My ears are toasty warms in crochet earmuffs!

Crochet Earmuffs Free Pattern

What Yarn? What Crochet Hook? What Else Do I Need?

Right, to make your own crochet earmuffs, you only need a few scraps of double-knit yarn. I used a 3.75mm hook rather than the usual 4mm I use for dk yarn as you want to make sure the stitches aren’t too loose.

I have loads of dk yarn in my stash; lots of little balls to use up. In this case, the yarn could be any brand, it’s a mix of all sorts. But generally speaking, I prefer to use merino yarn or an acrylic merino blend. For a speedy crochet pattern such as this, it doesn’t really matter.

You will need some shop-bought earmuffs. The ones I bought were sold in two-packs and under a tenner for both pairs. They fit me, an arguably grown-up woman with an average-sized head.

You will also need two 30cm / 12-inch lengths of thin elastic, two circles of fabric measuring around 20cm / 8 inches, and a darning needle.

Now, if you want to be really precise, you should also get some elastic to gather the fabric too but I didn’t have enough elastic left for that. It would be neater and easier if you did…

Things you need to make granny crochet earmuffs

Crochet Video Tutorials

The written crochet pattern for earmuffs is below but check out this video for How to crochet a large granny square. Watch from 2:25 to see me demonstrate the first few rounds. Whilst it’s for a different thing, both projects start the same way. Round 3 is ever so slightly different in the tutorial but it achieves the same result. You actually hear me dither about changing how I’m going to do that round in the video!

UK Crochet Abbreviations

Please don’t be put off by the UK terminology. We’re talking granny stitch here and you all know that that’s a trio of US double crochet stitches. Whenever you see me write “treble”, it’s a US double. Everything else is the same.

beg = beginning, ch = chain, ch-sp = chain space, clu = cluster, st(s) = stitch(es), sp(s) = space(s), sl st = slip stitch,
sttr = standing treble start, tr = treble, rep = repeat, yrh = yarn round hook.

Special Crochet Stitches

Beg tr2tog:
This is used at the beginning of Rnd 1 to work the first “petal”. It uses the same principle as a Stacked start. See the video for the large granny square tutorial linked above. 

Insert hook in circle, yrh and pull through, yrh and pull through both loops on hook (it helps to gently pinch the st at this point to make the next stage easier), insert hook in left leg of the st and the loop behind it (the pinch helps the back loop to become looser and more visible), yrh and pull through, (2 loops on hook), yrh and insert hook into the circle, yrh and pull through (4 loops on hook), yrh and pull through 2 loops, yrh and pull through 3 loops. 

Standing tr start (sttr):
This is instead of starting rounds by chaining 3, it looks much tidier than a 3-chain and it’s fun to do! This method is perfect when changing colour at the beginning of rows/rounds:

Yrh three times and hold loops on hook with forefinger, insert hook in sp/st, yrh and pull through, [yrh and pull through 2 loops] twice. 
Let go of the yarn wrapped around your hook. First treble stitch made.

crochet earmuffs, a free pattern from zeens and roger

Pattern for Crochet Earmuffs

Feel free to chain 5 and join with a sl st (you’ll see this shown in the video tutorial linked in Special Stitches above). But, I think using a Magic Circle is valid here. Better, in fact. Start however you like though!

UK Terms
Rnd 1: 1Beg tr2tog, ch2, *tr2tog, 2ch: rep from * 6 more times, join with a sl st into the 1st 2ch-sp. Fasten off & cut yarn. – 8 “petals”

2: Attach new yarn with 1sttr in any 2ch-sp, 2tr in same sp, 1ch, *3tr in next 2ch-sp, 1ch; rep from * 6 more times, join with a sl st into the top of the sttr. Fasten off & cut yarn.

3 (Inc): Attach new yarn with 1sttr in any 1ch-sp, (1tr, 1ch, 2tr) in same sp, *(2tr, 1ch, 2tr) in next 1ch-sp; rep from * 6 more times, join with a sl st into the top of the sttr. Fasten off & cut yarn.

4: Attach new yarn with 1sttr in any 1ch-sp, 2tr in same sp, miss 2 sts, 3tr, *miss 2 tr, 3tr in next 1ch-sp, miss 2 sts, 3tr; rep from * around join with a sl st into the top of the sttr. Fasten off & cut yarn. -16 clu

5 & 6: Attach new yarn with 1sttr in any sp between clusters, 2tr in same sp, *3tr in next sp; rep from * around join with a sl st into the top of the sttr. Fasten off, cut yarn and sew in ends. 

Ok, now for the fun bit…

Turn Crochet Granny Circles into Earmuffs!

So, you can leave a long tail and use that to gather and secure the crochet to the ear muff. But it’s then more permanently fitted. If you add a little bit of elastic around the outer edge of the crochet circle and tie it closed, you can make the crochet covers removable. You can then make loads of different coloured crochet ear muff covers to swap over whenever you fancy a change!

hazards of making crochet earmuffs
See the sticky-out fluff in the muff?!

This is the point where you need the round scrap of fabric. What happens if you don’t have fabric? You can go without if you’d rather but the fluff on my muff burst through the granny holes! Oh dear. Use fabric as a barrier between the fluff and the crochet. As you know, I didn’t have enough elastic to gather the fabric but I would recommend this step. If you going to, you could use either thread or shirring elastic.

To add the elastic to the crochet granny circles you’ve made, thread the length in and out between the stitches, all the way around the outer edge. Tie the ends together in a knot and it’s ready to pop snuggly around your muff! Add the fabric layer first.

Voila! How quick are these crochet earmuffs!!?

If your muffs are a different size, you may want to fiddle around to make the crochet covers bigger or smaller, but that’s all part of the fun.

Me in my crochet earmuffs

If you like this free crochet pattern, take a look at what else I have on offer. My free crochet patterns can be found HERE!

Thanks for reading, cheers! x

Granny Stripe Hat Pattern

Categories crochet, crochet resources, free pattern8 Comments on Granny Stripe Hat Pattern

Crochet A Granny Stripe Hat

This is such a quick granny stripe hat to crochet, the main stripes of granny clusters are worked up lickety-split! The “knit-look” crochet ribbing, whilst it takes a little longer to crochet than other rib-effect stitches, it creates a soft, squishy texture and a superb elastic stretch. It is very much worth the effort for a fantastic final result.

This hat was born from a summer version that, so far, I have refused to release as a pattern. I made several prototypes but I just didn’t like it. I am not a fan of summer hats and I wondered what would happen if I concentrated my efforts on a design that I would appreciate more.

A woolly warm, winter crochet hat is far more appealing than a cotton bucket hat. Thus, here we have a granny stripe hat that’s perfect for winter! Today, I thought I would share the pattern below. You can also purchase an ad-free version in my Ravelry store and I also have copies for sale on Etsy. The paid version also includes an additional chart.

For 25% off the paid version until the end of the year, use the code: GRANNYHAT at the checkout.

Free Crochet Pattern. Granny Stripe hat

What You Need To Crochet Your Granny Stripe Hat

To make your hat you will need a 4mm hook (US G-6). Or a hook size that meets gauge (more info below). I know you’ll be tempted not to bother with gauge as this is just a hat but if you notice that you are wildly off, please check!

You will also need 100g of Double Knit (DK) yarn. This can be all one colour, or mix it up for a multicoloured fun fest. Just under 50g is required for the brim, which is all in one colour.

And, if you fancy, add a pompom for a finishing touch. I bought cheap ones from a local garden centre. I was too lazy to make a pompom this time around. Plus, these shop bought ones are super light and don’t pull on the hats. I hadn’t thought about that before.

This is a DK Yarn Crochet Hat

I tried a few different yarn brands and made four different hats for my experiments. I also had a handful of awesome testers who tried a few more yarns too. From looking at the super important crochet hat making data, the outcome is that a standard DK weight creates the best results.

I was initially foxed by the first yarn brand I tried as their “DK” weight was very plump and it tricked me into thinking a worsted would work for the pattern I’d come up with. Whilst you certainly could get away with a worsted weight yarn if you reduced the increases, for the sake of uniformity, DK is the best yarn for the job here.

If you would like to find out more about yarn substitution, please go HERE. It is a one-stop post that’ll provide an overview of all your yarn subbing queries.

Granny Stripe hat pattern
Zeens and Roger

A Perfect Stash Busting Granny Hat

In the end, I used a blend of a couple of different DK weight yarns and made an awesome dent in my yarn stash.

In my stash, I had leftovers of King Cole Majestic and West Yorkshire Spinners Bo Peep. They are both a teensy bit different in yardage but once I was crocheting, it didn’t make a difference. My granny stripe hats look great with a mix of colours and brands. However, both the yarns are a merino/acrylic blend so have a very similar feel to them.

I don’t know the exact yardage for each stripe but when wound up in a ball, we’re talking the size of a large walnut. Take a quick look at the picture below (the one with me in my scruffy jimjams and the cat). To the left are the size of woolly balls you need for each round. I know this because I undid them from the hat as I didn’t like the colour order!

Crocheting a granny hat

Granny Hat Measurements

This granny stripe hat has approx 8cm negative ease. This means that it is about 8cm smaller than an actual adult head. It shouldn’t be too baggy as it is stretching to fit comfortably yet securely. Therefore, it will fit snuggly atop a bonce that needs warming.

The following measurements are taken on newly made, unblocked hats stretched slightly after one outing/wear about town. 

Hat circumference: (49) 50 cm.
Hat depth with brim folded: 22cm
Unfolded brim depth: 10.5cm
Depth of granny stripe rounds: 17cm

  • Make size 1 for a head measuring 56 – 57cm.
  • Make size 2 for a head measuring 58 – 59cm.

Granny Stripe Tension

Tension is key to the size of a finished granny stripe hat. The following measurements are taken from an unblocked hat, as above.

Granny Stripes: 5.5 clu / 10 rows = 10cm
Brim ribbing: 24 rows / 24 sts = 10cm. 

If you would like to know more about what tension means in relation to your crochet, read about getting gauge in your crochet HERE.

A stash busting granny stripe hat

Adjusting the Size of Your Granny Stripe Hat

With all crochet, there is always room for tweaking and adjusting to make something unique and perfect for the individual. However, if you would rather not tinker with stitch counts, try a simple change such as using a different hook size to get a smaller or larger gauge. Perhaps a 3.5mm or 3.75mm hook for a smaller hat, Or, for a larger hat, a 4.5mm hook.

Adjusting the granny stripe section for a different head size means altering the number of clusters on increase rounds. Adding or removing a cluster will change the hat’s circumference by approximately 1cm. Round 8 is an increase round and a good round for adding or subtracting a cluster. This pattern has either 2 or 3 increases on Round 8 depending on the size. If your hat is coming up a bit too small, why not add a 4th increase?

To make an extra large hat, add another round or two of granny stripes before continuing to the foundation round of UK dc / US sc stitches.

Crochet Ribbing Adjustments

To adjust ribbing, the stitch count needs to be changed on Round 17. This is the foundation upon which the Join As You Go ribbing is worked. Because of the different tension of the ribbing, it draws the hat in. With no increases on Round 17, crumbs, it was so tight it wouldn’t join up! So, whilst the increases might look a bit complicated on paper, they are as evenly distributed as possible. The paid version of the granny stripe hat pattern has a chart so you can check out the visuals of increases.

The foundation stitches of Round 17 should be multiples of 2, plus 1 but you’ll get away with a little bit of fudging too. Negative ease is needed for the brim so don’t add too many extra stitches if you’re upsizing. 

Join As You Go Ribbing for a Granny Stripe Hat

Using the Same Colour Every Stripe Round?

The crochet hat pattern below assumes you will change colour for each granny stripe round. Each round begins by joining a new colour of yarn with “sttr” which is the rather fabulous Standing Start – see below for more information about Special Stitches.

To make a hat using the all same colour means using a different method to start subsequent rounds. It’s not a difficult crochet method, just different.

What you need to do is this: once the previous round has been joined with a slip stitch, slip stitch into the next two stitches and into the next space between clusters. From here, start the next round with a chain three, or your preferred alternative, such as a Stacked Start.

Don’t worry if you’re confused, let me help further… Take a look at the video for Alternatives to a Chain 3. A tutorial for the Stacked Start is shown in the video tutorial but if you prefer, there’s always a No Turning Chain start too. Watch my video for a Large Granny Square from 30:48 for a demonstration of the technique for when you don’t want to change colour every round.

Crochet Granny stripe Hat pattern

Crochet Pattern Abbreviations

I am going to pop the stitch pattern abbreviations in here as I start talking in crochet speak from here on.

Before I do, I think it’s worth mentioning that this pattern is only available in UK terms at the moment. But please don’t let that put you off. The swap/conversion you have to do is minimal. We’re talking granny clusters here and you know as well as I do that these are always the same!

So, the main stitch in the pattern in UK terms is the treble stitch. In US terms this is a double crochet (dc). So, US pals, work your grannies as normal; clusters of 3dc. Round 17 will be single crochet stitches for you. And that’s it!

Abbreviations (UK terms)
beg = beginning, BLO = back loop only, ch = chain, ch-sp = chain space, clu = cluster,
dc = double crochet (US sc), st(s) = stitch(es), sp(s) = space(s), sl st = slip stitch,
sttr = standing treble start, tr = treble (US dc), rep = repeat, r/s = sight side, w/s = wrong side,
YO sl st = yarn over slip stitch, yrh = yarn round hook.

Special Crochet Stitches

Beg tr2tog:
This is used at the beginning of Rnd 1 to work the first “petal”. It uses the same principle as a Stacked Start. See the video for How to Start Round 1

Insert hook in circle, yrh and pull through, yrh and pull through both loops on hook (it helps to gently pinch the st at this point to make the next stage easier), insert hook in left leg of the st and the loop behind it (the pinch helps the back loop to become looser and more visible), yrh and pull through, (2 loops on hook), yrh and insert hook into the circle, yrh and pull through (4 loops on hook), yrh and pull through 2 loops, yrh and pull through 3 loops. 

Standing tr start (sttr):
The Standing Start is a method demonstrated in the video for Alternatives to Chain 3. Use this instead of chaining 3 to start the beginning of a row/round, it looks much tidier than a 3-chain and it’s fun to do!

Yrh three times and hold loops on hook with forefinger, insert hook in sp/st, yrh and pull through, [yrh and pull through 2 loops] twice. 
Let go of the yarn wrapped around your hook. First treble stitch made.

Supporting Video Tutorials For Crochet

How to Start Round 1 – This is a tutorial for a granny square but Round 1 is exactly the same for the hat too.

Alternatives to a Chain 3 – This will help you start new rounds in a tidy way. I demonstrate the Standing Start and the Stacked Start in this video. You could even try the No Turning chain, which I bemoan in the video but can actually be very effective! Don’t tell anyone, but I have started using it way more since I made this video tutorial!

Join As You Go Ribbing – The ribbing used in this granny stripe pattern is demonstrated from 18:02. It is a “knit-look” crochet ribbing and one I have used a lot. And yes, I know it has slip stitches but they are much more fun to do when accompanied by a yarn over sl st. Honest!

Using the same colour every round? Watch the tutorial for the Large Granny Square from 30:48 for the first three rounds and you can use a totally different method for starting rounds that will achieve excellent results. This granny square tutorial is a pretty useful video as I also demonstrate the Standing Start again (7:09).

Granny Stripe Hat Crochet Pattern

Hat Pattern Notes

  • This crochet hat pattern is written in UK terms – feel free to check out the abbreviations above for more details.
  • A cluster is 3 UK tr / US dc stitches made in the same space.
  • Using a different weight of yarn or a different sized hook will affect the size of the hat. 
  • Follow the pattern for both sizes. At Round 8 the reps for both sizes are shown as 11(7). Size 1 is the first number with size 2 in brackets.

Granny Stripe Hat Pattern

Chain 5 and join with a sl st.
1: 1Beg tr2tog, ch2, *tr2tog, 2ch: rep from * 6 more times, join with a sl st into the 1st 2ch-sp. Fasten off & cut yarn. – 8 “petals”

2: Attach new yarn with 1sttr in any 2ch-sp, 2tr in same sp, 1ch, *3tr in next 2ch-sp, 1ch; rep from * 6 more times, join with a sl st into the top of the sttr. Fasten off & cut yarn.

3 (Inc): Attach new yarn with 1sttr in any 1ch-sp, (1tr, 1ch, 2tr) in same sp, *(2tr, 1ch, 2tr) in next 1ch-sp; rep from * 6 more times, join with a sl st into the top of the sttr. Fasten off & cut yarn.

4: Attach new yarn with 1sttr in any 1ch-sp, 2tr in same sp, miss 2 sts, 3tr, *miss 2 tr, 3tr in next 1ch-sp, miss 2 sts, 3tr; rep from * around join with a sl st into the top of the sttr. Fasten off & cut yarn. -16 clu

5: Attach new yarn with 1sttr in any sp between clusters, 2tr in same sp, *3tr in next sp; rep from * around join with a sl st into the top of the sttr. Fasten off & cut yarn. 

6 (inc): Attach new yarn with 1sttr in any sp, (1tr, 1ch, 2tr) in same sp, 3tr in next sp, *(2tr, 1ch, 2tr) in next sp, 3tr in next sp; rep from * around, join with a sl st into the top of the sttr. – 24 clu

7:  Attach new yarn with 1sttr in any 1ch-sp, 2tr in same sp, 3tr in each sp between clusters and in each ch-sp, join with a sl st into the top of the sttr.

8 (inc): Attach new yarn with 1sttr in any sp, (1tr, 1ch, 2tr) in same sp, 3tr in next 11(7)  sps, *(2tr, 1ch, 2tr) in next sp, 3tr in next 11 (7) sps; rep from * 0 (1) more time, join with a sl st into the top of the sttr. – 26 (27) clu

9: As Rnd 7.

10 – 16:  Attach new yarn with 1sttr in any sp, 2tr in same sp, 3tr in each sp between clusters around, join with a sl st into the top of the sttr.  

For a smaller head you may wish to only work 15 rounds, or 17 rounds for a larger head.

17 (size 1): Attach brim ribbing yarn to any st, 1ch (does not count as a st), [2dc in first st, 1dc, *2dc in next st, 3dc; rep from * five more times] three times, join with a sl st into the top of the st. – 99 sts

17 (size 2): Attach brim ribbing, 1ch, 2dc in first st, 3dc, 2dc in next st, 4dc, [2dc in next st, 1dc, *2dc in next st, 3dc; rep from * three more times] four times, join with a sl st into the top of the st. – 103 sts

Hat Brim/Crochet Ribbing

Chain 25.
1: Working in back bumps, YO sl st in second ch from hook, YO sl st to end, (with right side facing) sl st in next 2 sts of foundation round, turn. – 24 sts.

2 (w/s): Miss 2 sl sts, 23sl sts BLO, 1sl st in both loops, turn.

3 (r/s): ch1, 24 YO sl st BLO, sl st in next 2 sts of foundation round, turn.

Rep Rows 2 & 3 to end, finishing with Row 2. 

With wrong side of brim facing out, join the beginning and end rows of ribbing with slip stitches. Or, if you prefer, sew the open ends together. 
Fold brim to reveal the right side of the pretty ribbing stitches.

Hmm, look at the pic above, is that join too messy? It makes me wonder if an additional round of UK dc/US sc could be added at the end of the granny rounds. Don’t you think it would look neater with a round in the same colour as the last round of clusters? Hindsight is a wonderful thing!

Aaannnyway, what do you think? I hope you enjoy working on lots of granny stripe hats. They are the perfect last minute gift for friends and family.

If the ads are stopping your from enjoying this pattern, don’t forget that you can purchase an ad-free version from Ravelry HERE, Or if Rav isn’t your bag, I have an Etsy shop HERE. The paid pattern is a bit more streamlined and includes a chart too. 25% off with the code GRANNYHAT until 31/12/2024

If you enjoyed this free crochet pattern, please feel free to peruse my free crochet patterns page. And if you are curious about exploring different crochet methods and techniques, check out some crochet tips and tricks HERE.

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Things You Need, To Learn How to Crochet

Categories crochet, crochet resources2 Comments on Things You Need, To Learn How to Crochet
Granny squares, a beginner project for when you learn how to crochet

Recently, an old acquaintance got in touch as they wanted to learn how to crochet. I love it when this happens! It’s an opportunity for someone else to become as obsessed with yarn as me! More specifically, they wanted to know what they needed to be able to learn crochet. It was rather fortuitous because that very same day there was a Guardian article about that same thing.

The article is about what kit you need to learn how to crochet. So, using my experience of first picking up a crochet hook, combined with the approach that the article took, it felt like the perfect excuse for a blog post.

Therefore, consider this a post for Things You Need to Know, To Learn How To Learn Crochet. But to be perfectly honest, all you really need to begin your fabulous new hobby is a crochet hook and a ball or two of yarn. And a little bit of determination.

Things You Need to Learn How to Crochet

Listed below are my top tips, which will help you learn how to crochet. In this blog post you will find info on the following:

  • Tools & Equipment: Hooks and other Paraphernalia.
  • Buying Yarn as a Beginner Crocheter.
  • Crochet Tension & How to Hold Your Hook and Yarn.
  • Crochet Terminology. The Difference between UK &US terms.
  • What Crochet Stitches to Know.
  • Getting Gauge in Crochet.
  • What Crochet Patterns to Try.
  • Choosing Colour for Your Crochet.

Tools and Equipment for Beginner Crocheters

When I first learned to crochet fifteen years ago, I went to the old-school wool shop in town, bought two or three balls of acrylic yarn and asked the woman behind the counter to sell me the right size hook for the yarn. The yarn was double knit (DK) and the hook was a 4.5mm.

These are the only two things I needed to learn the absolute basics of crochet. You’ve probably already got scissors for cutting yarn, I presume? Maybe not. Get some scissors then. And, to ensure you can truly finish projects neatly, you’ll need a darning needle for sewing in ends.

That’s it! Those are the only tools you need to learn how to crochet.

I also bought a very simple book with useful diagrams and charts. It was a small, purple book called, Crochet Unravelled. I used it a lot but then I discovered YouTube! YouTube has A LOT of video tutorials for crochet.

Crochet tools for when you learn how to crochet

Crochet Hooks

I have a lot of crochet tools now. In my collection are hooks of all sizes, using different ones depending on the project and yarn weight. It’s best to have multiple hooks in the same size (maybe lots of 4mm hooks, for example) as you’ll find it easiest to keep each hook with its project (AKA WIP = work in progress). When in deep, you will likely have multiple projects on the go at once so that means many crochet hooks.

I have novelty hooks, wooden hooks, hooks with handles and plastic hooks, but for me, my total faves are the plain, cheap steel ones. There is no need for fancy hooks unless you start getting hand pain. Funnily enough, I get hand pain from the ergonomic hooks as I find them too bulky. Give me a straight stick any day. You will soon discover your preference.

Other Crochet Paraphanelia

Stitch Markers

Stitch markers are very useful and some people have a separate hobby of collecting pretty stitch markers. I prefer cheap bulb pins, or plain plastic markers as they are lightweight and don’t get tangled in my work (I am not a fan of novelty stitch markers because they pull threads and can be too heavy).

Use stitch markers at the beginning and ends of rows to make stitches easy to find. They also stop a stored project’s stitches from unravelling without permission. Some crochet patterns tell you to work to a marker and then change direction. It’s best to have some in stock but you can always use a length of yarn in a contrasting colour as your marker.

Tape Measure

A Tape Measure is crucial!! I have several tape measures dotted in different locations around the house. I use them more often when I’m making crochet clothes. You don’t often need to measure a granny square blanket but you never know. If making crochet clothes, a tape measure is THE thing. Or, a gauge reader doodah, which is essentially a ruler in a different shape.

Blocking Mats, Pins and Wires

Firstly, nobody is going to arrest you if you don’t block your crochet and sometimes it isn’t necessary (for example, I have never blocked a crochet bag and I don’t bother blocking projects when I use 100% acrylic) but read on for a general overview…

An Overview on Blocking Crochet

When I first started blocking my crochet projects, I would use dressmakers pins and pin my finished object (FO) directly onto the carpet. I haven’t written about blocking in great detail yet (I keep putting it off as, although it’s super important, writing about it isn’t very exciting).

Blocking is about making the best of your crochet; it opens up stitches into their final “look”. Depending on the yarn you’ve used, you can wash/soak, rinse and blot your crochet before pinning it out to dry. Or pin it out first, then steam or spray crochet fabric with water and leave it to dry. That’s all blocking is. Normally, you pin it out to set measurements but often, you can wing it.

Once a crochet item has been blocked, the fabric size and drape can be vastly different to what your crochet looked and felt like before you dunked it in soapy water. Stitches can bloom open and soften beautifully. Or, carelessly steam-block with an iron and you could burn or melt your precious crochet. Please be careful!

These days, I have foam blocking mats to protect the carpet and fancy blocking pins, which are brilliant (although I don’t have enough of them). The blocking mats can make things more mobile; you can move them about if careful. I totally love blocking wires as well. They are expensive but it means you don’t need to painstakingly pin loads of pins because a few wires will do the job of several pointy little devils.

I love that one of the pics above shows a shawl being blocked with knitting needles. Must have been before I bought the blocking wires!

Notions Pouch for Crochet Tools

A notions pouch is a little bag to keep all of the above in (well, maybe not blocking stuff). Essentially, it is your bag of tricks. In mine, I also have: lip balm, too many hairbands, a nail file (more important than you think; scraggy nails snag on yarn) and a pen for writing notes on random bits of paper or printed patterns.

Yarn For Beginner Crocheters

It didn’t occur to me how much of a minefield this one is but the subject of yarn is huge. There are mountains of different yarns out there and knowing where to start is definitely discombobulating. I used to call it all Wool but that confuses or annoys a few people. So it is a good idea to call it Yarn as it covers the whole gamut.

As a beginner wanting to learn how to crochet, acrylic double knit (DK) is a popular yarn to choose. Master crochet stitches first and then treat yourself to the posher yarn, should you wish to try it. Or not, you might fall in love with acrylic. It’s colourful, affordable and much better quality than it used to be.

Over fifteen years, I have picked up quite a lot of information about yarn and I don’t take my yarny knowledge for granted. When I first started I didn’t know anything at all. If I liked the look or feel of yarn I’d buy it. It wasn’t always the right yarn for the project but that helped me to learn. Nowt wrong with making a few mistakes along the way!

Check out my blog post about Yarn Substitution. It covers a little bit of everything: what yardage means, different yarn weights (the thickness of yarn), different fibres (acrylic, wool, cotton, yak, stinging nettle?) etc.

Car Crochet. Making my Zigzag Bag on the way to Wales in September 23.

Crochet Tension & How to Hold Yarn

Tension is key in learning how to crochet. I don’t care how you hold your hook as long as it feels comfortable. Knife hold or pen hold are the two main ways of holding a crochet hook but there are other ways too.

Generally speaking, the hook is held in the right hand if you’re right-handed and left if you’re left-handed. The yarn is twiddled around the fingers of your other hand to hold the tension. If you are a knitter, you might even like to hold both yarn and hook in the same hand and conduct witchcraft.

Anyway, practice practice practice. Learn how to comfortably glide the yarn through your fingers. Control it with a firm (but not too tight) tension. Do not let it control you or it will run rings around you (or just spin around the hook a lot).

Tension will improve the more you work at it. The very first thing I did when I learned how to crochet was to crochet the world’s longest chain. I wouldn’t let myself move on from that until the chains were uniform. They were not too tight, not too loose and not twisted. My first attempts looked like mangled worms. Nevertheless, I was very proud.

Learn How to Crochet: US or UK Crochet Terms?

Before you even pick up a crochet hook, know this one super duper important fact. There are two terminologies for crochet stitches and people find it very VERY confusing! It’s the stupidest thing about my beloved hobby.

When you get your hands on a crochet pattern, the first thing to check is, is the pattern using American or UK terms. Fear not, it isn’t that difficult to overcome and translating is a doddle. Patterns are better at telling us these days but older crochet patterns assume you know.

At first glance, the names are the same. Unfortunately, what they mean to the respective countries is different. Booo.

Look out for “tells”. If an “sc” or “single crochet” is used, you will know for certain that it’s an American pattern as “sc” doesn’t appear in UK terms at all. Is there a “htr” or “half treble”? That’s a UK term because there’s no such thing in US terms (it’s known as an “hdc” or half double crochet in US speak).

Check out charts too. Chart symbols are universal so it doesn’t matter about the written terms. They’re a good clue to indicate what the written terms are though.

Learn how to crochet

What Crochet Stitches Do I Need to Know?

There aren’t actually that many crochet stitches, not really. What there are loads of is combinations of crochet stitches. The way different stitches are put together creates different textures and styles of fabric. Crochet is way more diverse than it’s given credit for, especially over the last few years, we’ve seen wonderfully modern, innovative crochet design. But they all stem from the same few stitches. Magic!

Perhaps because of social media, maybe even Covid, makers are exploring new stitch patterns and pushing the boundaries of what crochet can be. But not wanting to get ahead of ourselves, let’s just take a look at basic crochet stitches.

Commonly Used Crochet Stitches

The order in which the most common stitches go is:
For the UK: slip stitch, double crochet, half treble, treble crochet, double treble.
And for the US: slip stitch, single crochet, half double, double crochet, treble crochet.
(FYI, I’ve found that whether it’s triple and treble, the two words are interchangeable – there is no difference. “Treble” seems to be my default).

Table of Commonly Used Crochet Stitches

Slip Stitch (ss or sl st) =Slip Stitch (ss or sl st). It’s the same for both US &UK!
UK double crochet (dc) =US single crochet (sc)
UK half treble crochet (htr) =US half double crochet (hdc)
UK treble crochet (tr) =US double crochet (dc)
UK double treble (dtr)= US treble (tr)

Everyone (apart from the odd psychopath, or two) hates slip stitches because they are an absolute bugger to work into (using a larger hook size negates the struggle though). They are frequently used as joining stitches, which are easy. It’s when they are used as part of a stitch pattern that people become filled with rage and/or despair. But they create awesome stitch patterns so there is reason to persevere and you might end up appreciating them a little bit.

The most popular, commonly used crochet stitches are the UK double crochet (same as a US single crochet), and the UK treble (same as a US double crochet). They are the most basic stitches and are used in a myriad of different combinations.

But, you are allowed to go off piste whenever you want. If you want to experiment with how many times you yarn over, go for it (or, ooh, try yarning under, what does that look like? It’s different, right?). I did an extra yarn over on a UK dc (US sc) once and thought I’d broken some sort of sacrosanct rule. Turns out I’d just worked an Extended UK dc (US sc) and didn’t know it had a name. *shrugs*

Getting Gauge in Crochet

I wrote a blog post about Getting Gauge in your Crochet Garments. It covers most of what you need to know. Needless to say, the crochet tension you learned about has an effect on the density of the fabric you make. Looser stitches create a larger fabric. Tight stitches make a dense fabric with little drape. You need to match the gauge to make the same sized garments as intended in a crochet pattern.

Granny stitch shawl pattern, a great pattern for a beginner crochet when you learn how to crochet.

Learn How to Crochet: Choosing Patterns

What do you want to crochet? This will have an impact on the type of patterns you search for. Either way, as a beginner crocheter, start small. A lot of makers learn how to crochet by finding Free Crochet Patterns online. Online freebies are not all the same quality though so beware. Some of my earlier free crochet patterns were not as polished as I would like so every now and then I update old patterns so that I’m not quite as ashamed! Oh dear. I try harder these days, honest!

When I first started to learn how to crochet, like many others I was drawn to Lucy of Attic 24. This is because she produces step-by-step photo tutorials alongside simple written instructions. You will also find many videos for beginner friendly crochet tutorials on YouTube. I have a YouTube channel for crochet tutorials but you may wish to tackle how to work a chain first.

Sign up for Ravelry, which is a vast online library of knitting and crochet patterns. My crochet patterns are on there. And don’t get lost down the Pinterest rabbit hole. Or feel free to do so if it pleases you. I love Pinterest, you’ll find so many ideas there.

Choosing Colour for Crochet

My first crochet projects were dreadful. I didn’t know anything about Choosing Colour for my Crochet projects. However, if you buy all the same yarn (the same brand, weight & collection), chances are the shades will go together. Brand collections often deliberately have a cohesive and complementary palette so that makers can trust the colours they choose will go together.

As I have said in the past, playing with colour is one of my favourite things about crochet. Go with your gut and don’t worry too much if you don’t like what you’ve chosen. At least you’ll know for next time. And you’ll get better at choosing colours for crochet projects the more you do it.

All The Things For Learning How to Crochet!

Wow!! There’s quite a lot of information when you stop and think about it. I thought this was going to be a quick & easy list of things you need to know when you want to learn how to crochet. There’s so much more to it than I realised. In practice, you obviously don’t need to absorb all that information in one go. It’s a gradual process so trust that it’s not actually overwhelming in real life, I promise it isn’t!

Crochet is fun, cathartic, mindful and awesome. So, if you see all of the above information and feel a little bit intimidated, please don’t be. As I learned recently, when exploring how to create crochet charts, you just need to take a deep breath and take it one step at a time.

Cripes, that was a long one, I hope you made it all the way to the end!? If you did, cheers! x

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Granny Santa Hat

Categories crochetLeave a Comment on Granny Santa Hat
Crochet Granny Santa Hat

Granny Santa Hat Pattern

Bless my sweet boy! It has been a few years since he modelled my Christmas Granny Santa Hat. He is much bigger than this now, in fact, he is taller than me and growing every day. However, I know that this Granny Santa hat still fits him as it’s a bit of a one size fits all hat.

Made from super chunky yarn, this hat is incredibly quick and easy to crochet. It’s not even Halloween yet, so you have plenty of time to crochet a Santa hat for everyone in the family this Christmas!

This is a crochet design from a few years ago and I thought it would be good to have as a festive freebie (scroll down to find the free pattern). However, you can also grab a copy of the PDF version, which also has a bonus pattern of matching crochet granny hat bunting!

The Crochet Christmas Collection

Not to confuse matters but I also created a collection of crochet patterns I thought were Christmassy, into one bundle. It’s the Christmas Crochet Collection and features: granny stitch baubles, cosy crochet slipper socks the aforementioned hat and bunting, as well as a C2C sweater with a subtle nod to Christmas.

The Christmas Crochet Collection is available to buy, or you can find the patterns for free in the following places:

christmas crochet bunting with little granny santa hats
christmas crochet baubles

Things you Need to Crochet a Granny Santa Hat

Granny Hat Pattern Notes:

  • All the pictures in this pattern are of the same chunky Christmas hat, it’s just different heads that it’s perched upon.
  • The hat is worked​ bottom up, starting with the front post/back post brim.
  • Finished​ ​size:​ When laid flat the length (excl pompom) is ​​approx 14 inches / 36cm. The diameter is approximately 9.5 inches / 24cm.
  • There is an option to finish the hat a few rounds early (that way, just one ball of red can be used). See Round 17.
  • Whilst tension isn’t too much of an issue for a hat like this, it will affect the amount of yarn you use.
  • The pattern is written in UK terms and has US equivalents in brackets (see abbreviations). However, it is pretty much all one stitch – the US double crochet. As long as you use that, you’re good to go.
  • When “cluster” is referred to in the pattern, this means a traditional 3 stitch granny cluster. (3tr for UK and 3dc for US).

Chunky Yarn for a Crochet Santa Hat

I used Stylecraft Life Super Chunky (100g/80m per ball). You will need one ball of the Cream and two balls of the colourway, Cardinal. If you need to be a bit more conservative with the amount of yarn you use, you could finish your hat a few rounds early and then you would only need one ball in Cardinal.

The bonus garland pattern within the PDF version came about because I had to break into the second ball of the red to finish the pointy bit of the hat. I had plenty of chunky yarn left over and didn’t want it to go to waste. So the result is the garland of mini crochet Santa hats!

Note that in the US a super chunky is often in the same category as super bulky.

Don’t Forget Your Other Crochet Tools:

  • 8mm crochet hook.
  • Large eye darning needle – something that will fit super chunky yarn.
  • Pompom maker for approx 8-9cm diameter pompom.
  • Scissors – you can’t break a bulky yarn with your hands unless you have some kind of magical Christmas spirit strength.

Crochet Pattern Abbreviations

Ch=​ ​chain, BPtr= back post treble (US BPdc), FPtr= front post treble (US FPdc)
Rep=​ ​repeat, St= ​stitch, ​​​Sl st=​ ​slip​ ​stitch, ​Tr= Treble crochet​ ​(US double).

Crochet Christmas granny stitch santa hat

Granny Santa Hat Pattern

With Cream, chain 54.
1: Working in back bumps of chain, 1tr in 4th ch from hook, 1tr along to end, join with a sl st to the top of ch3 to form a circle. [52 sts]
2-4: Ch3 (counts as a FPtr), *1BPtr, 1FPtr; rep from * around, finishing on BPtr, join with a sl st to top of ch3. Fasten off Cream.
5: Attach Cardinal to any st, ch3, 2tr in same st, miss 3 sts, *3tr cluster, miss 3 sts; rep from * around, join with a sl st to the top of ch3. [13 clusters]
6 -10: Ch3, 2tr in same sp, *3tr cluster in next sp; rep from * around, join with a sl st to the top of ch3. [13 clusters]
11: Ch2, 1tr in next sp (counts as a decrease), *3tr cluster in next sp; rep from * around, join with a sl st to the top of 1tr, sl st into next sp. 
12: Rep 6. [12 clusters]
13: Rep 11.
14: Rep 6. [11 clu]
15: Rep 11.
16: Rep 6. [10 clu]
17: Rep 11. (This is where I ran out of the first ball of Cardinal so, for a shorter, less pointy hat, fasten off here).
18: Rep 6. [8 clu]
19: Rep 11.
20: Rep 6. [7 clu]

Finishing Off Your Santa Hat

Fasten off by using the tail to weave between clusters. Pull tight to securely close. You might want to weave the yarn in and out a few times just to be sure it’s fastened off nice and firmly. Then, sew the bottom of the brim closed with a couple of stitches (see above). Sew in all other ends.

Make and trim a beautiful, big, fluffy pompom to attach to the top of the hat. The best way to attach it is to use the tie ends of the pompom.

Hey Presto!! You now have a fabulous granny stitch hat that would make Father Christmas very proud! What do you think? I quite fancy a green and white striped version. Maybe I will make one this year.

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All three of these photos are the same hat on different people. I think it gives you a good idea of the one-size-fits-all approach.

With thanks to my old pal, Paul Courtney who took most of these pics with his fancy camera. That’s him below, a Father Christmas in the making.

Ho ho ho!

christmas granny santa hat
Crochet Santa hat

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Creating Crochet Charts

Categories crochet2 Comments on Creating Crochet Charts

Struggling to Create Crochet Charts?

Have you ever used a crochet pattern and admired the beautifully designed crochet charts that you used? They can make a crochet pattern stand out by helping makers visualise the placement of stitches.

If you’re a crochet designer and interested in selling patterns, it’s in everyone’s best interest to add a crochet chart into the mix. Some people are visual learners and written descriptions can sometimes be confusing. A helpful chart will lead to many happy crocheters.

Below, I share two different resources for creating crochet charts so you can give them a go too. Let me know what you think!

Creating Crochet charts on Stitch Fiddle
A simple chart created on StitchFiddle

Stitch Fiddle For Crochet Charts

I will always have a soft spot for Stitch Fiddle, I learned a lot by experimenting with the free version. I currently pay around £27 a year for the premium version which gives you access to more functions. The paid version means you can create as many charts as you want and opens up a lot of other options too, which is great.

Stitch Fiddle can be used for simple, freehand charts (with a little help from aligning tools) and I taught myself to use it quite easily. One of its advantages is that it’s pretty intuitive.

It’s main strength lies in C2C crochet charts. They are so easy to create. With the premium version you can also download a written, a row by row colour order from the C2C charts you create, which is useful if someone likes the reassurance of a written version. I will probably use Stitch Fiddle forever to create C2C charts.

Above is one of my charts for a subtly festive pattern, I share the whole chart on my free crochet pattern for a C2C Christmas sweater.

But Stitch Fiddle has limitations that can be frustrating for bigger, more complex crochet charts. The two things that I can’t do and really want it to do are: group crochet symbols together to rotate them all as one, and group to then mirror a sequence of stitches, which I always thought would be a major time saver. I know that one day, these may well become part of the software as the guy behind Stitch Fiddle listens and has frequently acted upon requests for system updates. I just know that his schedule is probably huge and much like the rest of us, he can’t do all the things all at once.

Help With Learning Crochet Charts

The Barton Hap, a crochet shawl that benfits from crochet charts in the pattern.
The Barton Hap, a crochet shawl pattern, needed charts to accompany the written pattern

A month or so ago, I was incredibly frustrated and struggling to create a detailed chart of ripple stitches. It was just not within my skill set and a little bit beyond what was easy in Stitch Fiddle. I aired my upset on Instagram and received some excellent feedback from many makers. Everyone agreed that charts were useful and that often, they were an essential part of a good crochet pattern. I knew there was no way to bury my head in the sand about this. I had to get good at crochet charts!

Create Crochet Charts Like a Pro

Christina Crochet Coach, aka Christina Hadderingh of a Spoonful of Yarn, sensed my despair and sent a message to offer me a chance to try her Masterclass, Create Crochet Charts Like a Pro. Of course, I said yes as I was very much in a position where I needed help. Sometimes, it’s OK to acknowledge that you can’t do it all on your lonesome.

This crochet chart course was a game changer for me! It helps you go through how to use a free program called Crochet Charts Stitch Works Software. There is a detailed, step by step video class and some additional, very useful, documents too. All of which meant that I learned how to build crochet charts within an afternoon. Wow! I wouldn’t have been able to do this so speedily without the course. Could I have muddled my way through without it? Eventually, sure, but I certainly don’t have the time to fanny about in my usual confused way. I needed a knowledgeable hand to hold whilst I dove in. It made a world of difference.

Christina is kindly offering you 20% off her crochet charts course with the code CHARTS20. The full price is only 37 Euros so it’s a bargain even without the discount.

Crochet Charts By Stitchworks

Create your own crochet charts

The chart on the left was created using Stitch Fiddle. The chart of the right, Stitch Works (without a couple of the details because A: I was rushing and B: I only “drew” the second pic for this blog post). Hopefully, you can tell the difference between the two. Symbols are just a bit tidier for the chart on the right. And it took me a fraction of the time to create.

My FAVOURITE things about Crochet Charts by Stitch Works Software

  • I can change the colour of the stitches after I’ve placed them (you cannot yet do this with Stitch Fiddle and that’s a big disadvantage. It’s such a relief to be able to do this.
  • To create a new chart, I can select the number of stitches, and what kind of stitches I want and it’ll pop them all on my screen, evenly in formation, at the click of a button. I’ve done this for rows (squares) and in the round (circular).
  • Highlight the stitches you’re interested in and rotate them all together. Bliss!
  • And then mirror them precisely, all in one click. This function and the one above, can’t be done on StitchFiddle yet, although I gather it might be on their wish list at some point.
  • I can use a square, circle or triangle grid if I want and stitches cling to it – this I haven’t explored much because it’s glitchy.
  • Charts are so tidy!
  • I’ve had no problem saving charts or losing my work.

My Not So Favourite Things…

A couple of things to note about my not so favourite things. The glitch I mentioned… Each time I open a new chart and select a grid to use, the program crashes. I tried several times and nope! No joy. However, I can click on an already saved chart and then select a grid without the system crashing. I don’t know the reason for this but at least I know I can use them with this little hack.

When I revisited the software a couple of days later, I couldn’t find it on my PC. I was searching for the wrong thing. Don’t search for Stitch Works, search for “Crochet Charts.”

It doesn’t have an exhaustive list of stitch symbols so you may have to substitute one stitch for another. As I understand it, you can import a font called Stitchin Crochet Pro to the software. I do actually have Stitchin Crochet Pro font downloaded somewhere on my computer. I was going to use it for another thing. Perhaps I ought to try it for Stitch Works one day. But that font isn’t exhaustive either sooooo….

Lastly, it’s quite old and I don’t know if it’s maintained anymore. To be honest, I am not going to worry about that as it does what I need it to in its current form.

Playing With Crochet Charts

Here are a couple of pictures of when I was playing around with crochet charts on Stitch Works. Initially, I asked it for lots of UK trebles (US dc) and then I decided to change them to pre-programmed picots (cos, why not?!). After that, I selected a few to become UK dc stitches (US sc). Then I messed about with changing colour and deleting chosen stitches. All of this took mere seconds. Brilliant!

Creating your own crochet charts with Stitch Works Software

Illustrator and Inkscape Charts

This is out of my league (in terms of cost and skill) but if you’re versed in Adobe Suite, then Illustrator will likely be your choice for crochet charts. From my understanding it’s a very hard learning curve but once you’ve mastered the skills, it can do anything you want.

I don’t think I’ll ever be in a position to use this but you never know. With the help of the husband, we once created a garment schematic on a creeky, old free version but even that was bamboozling. For schematics, I just use Google Drawing and insert into a pattern document. Slight corner-cutting but it does the job.

Out of the two, I’d explore Inkscape first as it’s free.

Panic Over, I now have Crochet Chart Confidence!

After weeks, if not, months of a “woe is me attitude” I finally have the confidence to tackle bigger, better crochet charts. I am not perfect at it but I now have the resources to help build my skills in a very speedy way. I am so grateful that fellow designers put tools together like this to help others. Thank you, Christina!

One of the first things Christina says at the beginning of the course is that overwhelm is a choice. It stopped me in my tracks somewhat and will sit with me for a long time. I am a classic worrier and get overwhelmed very easily. It’s not often that I stop to take a deep breath and aim to take it one step at a time. Not only was this a great lesson in creating crochet charts, but it was also a lesson in not getting into a flap just because something is new and scary! I chose to accept help and it’s been exactly what I needed. Phew!

BTW, whatever you choose to create crochet charts, it’s important to do your own research and make sure you’re happy to install the software or program that’s right for you.

If you liked this blog post, check out some of my Crochet Tips & Tricks.

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Mix & Match Crochet Cowl Patterns

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A selection of Crochet Cowl Patterns

New Crochet Pattern Release!

I am a huge fan of crochet cowl patterns, so much so a few years ago, I wrote a blog post listing 10 of my favourite crochet cowls. This new set of Mix & Match Crochet Cowl Patterns isn’t included in that post because I have only just released them.

The idea for a set of mix and match stitch patterns (so that you can have a choice in the cowl you make) has been with me for a while. The seed was planted when I designed a striped cowl for an issue of Inside Crochet magazine (I can’t remember what issue, sorry!).

You may know this by now but some people just can’t leave things alone. They insist on tinkering, adjusting, tweaking and amending crochet patterns to suit them. I am one of those people! And I wanted to come up with a pattern that allowed for playing around with different crochet stitches, messing about with colours and combining them in lots of unique ways.

What cowl will you make? 5 Crochet Cowl Patterns in 1!
5 crochet cowl patterns
5 crochet cowl patterns in one

Mix & Match Crochet Cowl Pattern

You can find the pattern for the Mix & Match Crochet Cowl Pattern in my Ravelry store as well as my little Etsy shop. So far it is in UK terms only. Please let me know how keen you are on a version that has US terms because I can bump that job to the top of my list if there is interest.

Within the pattern, there are five different designs to make or, you can choose your own selection of stitch patterns to create your own unique crochet cowl pattern. Get 25% off with the code: MMCOWL

A bouquet of colourful yarn minis.
A Crochet Cowl Pattern for the perfect way to stash bust your yarn collection

Stash Busting Crochet Cowl Patterns

A wonderful thing about crochet is the freedom to stash bust your favourite yarns. A crochet cowl is no different. And this one is perfect for chucking all your leftover yarn at. You don’t necessarily need a main colour but I find it’s good to balance out all of the other colours you choose.

These crochet cowl patterns are also ideal for yarn advent calendars. Grab that pretty bouquet of colourful minis and you will create the most beautiful crochet accessory your eyes have ever seen! Ooooh, I love it! It’s super exciting to think about all the combinations, isn’t it?

Crochet Cowl Patterns

Five Different Crochet Cowl Patterns in One!

As I have mentioned, the pattern has five different crochet patterns and you can pick one of those, or combine the stitches in a different way. It’s totally up to you.

The stitch patterns included are cute bobble stripes, an easy eyelet stitch and simple post stitch ribbing. Also stripes. Lots of stripes! I cannot get enough of them. The stitch multiples are provided so you can stick with those, or try something in between. Fun, hey?!

It was very hard to stop at just five patterns as the possibilities are vast and wide. So, to keep things simple, there’s a cosy small cowl, a large cowl that kinda doubles as a snood, and then something that is more akin to a crochet infinity scarf. Oh and because I can’t get enough of mohair, I used that in one of the patterns too. If you’re worried about using mohair yarn in your crochet projects, read some top tips here.

Take a look below at my “modelling”. It would seem, that a bit like Zoolander, I can only look one way.

Zeens and Roger, crochet cowl pattern
Crochet Cowl pattern from Zeens and Roger
Mohair crochet cowl pattern

Which Cowl Will You Make?

It’s hard to choose a favourite cowl, right? But if I had to, oh I’d make a new one that’s different to any of these. And I can because the pattern allows me to do that! Boom! I’ll just choose the size, grab some more yarn and see what happens.

What about you? Which crochet cowl pattern will you choose?

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A Discovery of Stitches Sampler Scarf

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A Zeens and Roger design for the Curate Crochet Subscription box

A Discovery of Stitches from Curate Crochet

In the past I have confessed to not being a fan of subscription boxes. There are a number of reasons for this but the main two have always been, 1) I am paying for something and I don’t know what I’m going to get. 2) I’m locked in and can’t get out of the “deal”

Luckily for all of us, Curate Crochet Subscription boxes don’t involve either of these problems! Yay! And best of all, sometimes (certainly, this month anyway) the crochet designs that feature in the subscription box, have been designed by me!!

There is always such a super variation of designs in the Curate Crochet boxes, which means there are always new crochet ideas to try. Above, I mention the first problem I have with subscription boxes, which is you don’t know what you’re going to get until you’ve ordered. Here though, you get to see the crochet project before you buy. This month it is the Discovery of Stitches, a classic sampler scarf, and you have 7 days to order. The deadline to sign up for this sampler scarf box is the 7th of October!! Use the code Rosina5 to get £5 off your purchase.

Discovery of Stitches Subscription box

Crochet Sampler Scarf

Back in the early summer, Lindsey got in touch to ask if I would like to design the October subscription box for Curate Crochet. Not wanting to miss out on all the fun, I immediately said yes! The designs that feature are always pitch perfect and I was delighted that Lindsey wanted to ask me to be a guest designer.

I was given a brief, which included a beautiful mood board to guide me. (As a designer, I love a good brief and mood board. It makes it so much easier to know what path to go down). The main idea was that of a crochet sampler scarf; a few different crochet stitches all sitting happily alongside each other.

I chose some of my all-time favourite stitches, that way, I think you can see it’s “on brand” for my crochet style. The colours (a gorgeous variegated yarn) are completely Lindsey. Therefore, you have a lovely blend of both of our styles and that’s most definitely my favourite part of this project!

Sampler Scarf Stitches for Witches

Let’s talk a little bit more about the scarf itself (I don’t want to miss anything out!). So, I’ve mentioned that the Discovery of Stitches scarf includes some of my fave crochet stitches. It goes without saying that I absolutely had to include granny clusters. This is the direction I was steered and I was thrilled to explore how I could merge grannies with my other top stitches: the Houndstooth stitch and a lovely set of Ripples.

Bringing it to top tier, the ombre fringing is something to behold! It took a little bit of patience to order all the strands but it is oh so worth it. That was the fiddliest bit for sure. Doesn’t it look fantastic!?

The variegated yarn means much fewer ends to sew in because the colour changes come from the yarn itself. But I am afraid there are still more than just one or two to tidy away. A great trick is to just carry them with you as you crochet so you don’t need to snip so often. You can’t do this in all the sections but certainly, in the stripes, it makes life a little bit easier for sure.

Discovery of Stitches Subscription Box

Curate Crochet Subscription Box

Hopefully, this is a project that calls to you. The idea of marrying classic crochet stitches means you get lots of interest going on but nothing is ever head-scratching. The classic stitches are all fun and easy to work but Lindsey also puts together fabulous tutorials to accompany the written pattern.

If you are tempted by the Discovery of Stitches box for this month, don’t forget the £5 discount with the code Rosina5. Pop across to the Lottie & Albert website to find out more. Be quick though, remember you only have until the 7th of October.

The second point I made at the beginning of this post is also worth noting again, you don’t need to lock into any deals. If you only wanted this one box, that’s all you need to commit to. I love that idea! Plus, you get lots of other goodies too. I am particularly fond of the little kitty witch pin, she’s so cute! Just right for the season!

A discovery of stitches crochet sampler scarf
A Discovery of Stitches subscription box from Curate Crochet
Lindsey from Lottie & Albert

You may have guessed already but this post contains an affiliate link. That’s only because it’s my crochet design and I would love you to make your own cosy sampler scarf. I think this is a design that’s definitely a Treat rather than a Trick ;p

And just for good measure, I’ll include the link once more for the October Curate Crochet box HERE. Use the code Rosina5 for your discount. Cheers and Happy Halloween!

Z&R Crochet Podcast 105. Totes a Good Tote

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Zeens and Roger Crochet Podcast

Hello! I hope you are well?! Welcome to the Zeens and Roger Crochet Podcast. Grab yourself a cup of tea and your crochet to spend a little time with me for some crochet chat. Click on the pic above or go to my Youtube Channel HERE

It appears that I have a lot to say in this episode, you could never stop me talking about my favourite subject!

For all the crochet good stuff, please find the links below. Hopeully you will find what you are looking for.

Links to the Crochet Good Stuff

Have you caught up yet? Check out the last episode (104) HERE.

Fancy a quick project test? HERE is the Granny Stripe Hat testing link.

And the form for testing my secret top can be found HERE.

My floaty light, crochet crescent shawl, Cirrus can be found on Ravelry. you can also purchase Cirrus on Etsy.

Check out Amy’s gorgeous yarn on Mamie & Florrie HERE.

And the Cloudy Nora Shawl by Yarnison.

Go HERE for the Discovery of Stitches Curate Crochet Subscription Box. The code Rosina05 will get you £5 off your purchase.

Treat yourself to a new Crochet Bag Pattern. Find the Bermuda Triangle Bag on Ravelry, or buy your copy over on Etsy.

I am working on the charts for the Barton Hap shawl. You can find the written pattern in the beautiful publication of the John Arbon Textiles Annual 3.

My crochet chart journey is speeding along very nicely with the help of Christina from a Spoonful of Yarn. Check out Christina Crochet Coach. The chart course has been just what I needed!

I sell crochet patterns on Ravelry. I also sell the same crochet patterns on Etsy. And I often add crochet patterns on Lovecrafts too. Or, you can also scroll through the Free Crochet patterns.

Don’t forget that on Ravelry and Etsy I am offering 25% off crochet patterns with the code YOUTUBEZ. This code is valid until the 14th October 2024.

Making yourself the granny blanket?! The tutorial for the Little Granny Sqaure is HERE.

The granny blanket’s tutorial for the Large Granny Square can be found HERE.

Find me all over the web. Come and join me on Instagram. Are you following me on Pinterest yet? you should!!

Phew, I think that’s it for now! See below for just a few pics of some of the episode’s crochet good stuff! But there’s more, so watch today!

A Discovery of Stitches Curate Crochet Subscription Box.
Crochet crescent shawl
Crochet toe bag - check in out in my crochet podcast
See granny square blanket progress in my crohcet podcast

Large Granny Square with Circle Centre

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Granny Square Tutorial

This large granny square pattern has been designed specifically so I can use it in a bigger crochet project that I’ve been working on over the last year. Since last autumn or so, I have made enough granny squares for two double-bed sized crochet blankets and this pattern is part of those colourful blankets.

I recorded a large granny square tutorial in the spring and it has taken me until the late summer to edit it and put it together! Oh my goodness, such a long time. One of the reasons for the delay is that I wanted to make sure I got the pattern right. The element that needed perfecting was the granny circle in the middle of the square because the first blanket had too many stitches. You can find out much much more in Episode 104 of the Zeens and Roger Crochet Podcast as that video has a decent chat about the blankets I made. Therefore, if you’d like to know more, please do watch it (there are other granny projects in that episode too).

To watch the video tutorial of how to make a large granny square with a circle centre, go HERE to YouTube. For the written pattern, keep scrolling.

Crochet blanket. Large granny squares and cute little granny squares together.

Granny Squares to Make a Crochet Blanket

The photo above shows the first blanket I made at the beginning of this year. It’s a crochet blanket that I have been meaning to make for yeeeeeaaars. Back in 2011 (ish) I made one that was very similar and over the years I have been asked for the pattern quite a lot. I’ll have to dig out a photo to share in the next blog post (I’ll do that once blanket no.2 is complete).

The blankets all have the same thing in common; they have large and small squares laid out together in a “random formation”. The pattern for the large granny square is below. You can find the pattern for the cute little granny square HERE (plus the video tutorial too). When combined, you can make an awesome crochet blanket.

The best thing about making lots of squares and turning them into a blanket is that there is no rush. Make just a few every now and then, pick up and put down as and when the mood takes. Before you know it, everything has come together nicely at a super relaxing pace. Wonderful stuff.

Pattern for a large granny square

Things you Need to Crochet a Large Granny Square

For this pattern, you will need lots of DK yarn and a 4mm hook. This crochet pattern makes a 13 round square, that measures approximately 10 inches. Granny squares are, of course, the best stashbusters in the world so gather up all your DK leftovers to make your own unique motifs for a one of a kind blanket.

It’s important to note that the written instructions here use UK terms. Anywhere you see “tr” or “treble” please remember that these are US double crochet stitches.

Below are some special stitches that you may not know. I assume that you know any other, more basic, abbreviations but please leave a comment below if anything foxes you and I will do my best to answer as soon as I can.

Special Crochet Stitches

To make a stonkingly good crochet square there are a couple of techniques here that you may be new to, or perhaps not. But I will share them here as they are integral to the pattern. Please do not worry, they are not as hard as you might think and the video tutorial takes you through these crochet techniques step-by-step.

Beg tr2tog:

This is used at the beginning of Rnd 1 to work the first “petal”. It uses the same principle as a Stacked Start (have you seen my video tutorial for Alternatives to a Chain 3?).
Insert hook in circle, yrh and pull through, yrh and pull through both loops on hook (it helps to gently pinch the st at this point to make the next stage easier). Insert hook in left leg of the st and the loop behind it (the pinch helps the back loop to become looser and more visible), yrh and pull through, (2 loops on hook), yrh and insert hook into the circle, yrh and pull through (4 loops on hook), yrh and pull through 2 loops, yrh and pull through 3 loops. 

Standing tr start (sttr):

This is instead of starting rounds by using chains, it looks much tidier than a 3-chain and it’s fun to do! It’s perfect when changing colour at the beginning of rows. Yrh three times and hold loops on hook with forefinger, insert hook in ch-sp/st, yrh and pull through, [yrh and pull through 2 loops] twice. Let go of the yarn wrapped around your hook. First treble stitch made.

Standing dtr start (stdtr) = A US standing treble:

This is same principle as the sttr only for a taller stitch; you just wrap the yarn around your hook an extra time.
Yrh four times and hold loops on hook with forefinger, insert hook in ch-sp/st, yrh and pull through, [yrh and pull through 2 loops] three times.  Let go of the yarn wrapped around your hook. First dtr stitch made.

A cluster = 3 tr together in the same space.

The written pattern below assumes you will change colour every round. With Blanket No. 2 you will see that I don’t change colour every round for the granny squares. Watch the tutorial (towards the end) to see how that’s done as you have to use a couple of different techniques. Nothing crazy, I promise.

Top Tip!! Alternate the place where you join your yarn for each round. Join new yarn in the opposite corner to the join of the previous round. This avoids the dreaded granny twist! You can see this method doesn’t work quite so well if you are not changing colour.

Crochet Granny sqaure blanket in the making. Pattern for a Large granny square

Large Granny Square Pattern

Chain 5 and join with a sl st.
Rnd 1: 1Beg tr2tog, ch2, *tr2tog, 2ch: rep from * 6 more times, join with a sl st into the 1st 2ch-sp. Fasten off & cut yarn. Do not turn (here & throughout). [ 8 “petals”]

Rnd 2: Attach new yarn with 1sttr in any 2ch-sp, 2tr in same sp, 1ch, *3tr in next 2ch-sp, 1ch; rep from * 6 more times, join with a sl st into the top of the sttr. Fasten off & cut yarn.

Rnd 3: [this is a change from the video tutorial – you may hear me waffle at about 12/13 minutes re where I put my chains for Rnd 4 and this new way makes more sense – it amounts to the same amount of stitches and chain at the end] Attach new yarn with 1sttr in any 1ch-sp, (1tr, 1ch, 2tr) in same sp, *(2tr, 1ch, 2tr) in next 1ch-sp; rep from * 6 more times, join with a sl st into the top of the sttr. Fasten off & cut yarn.

Rnd 4: Attach new yarn with 1sttr in any 1ch-sp, 2tr in same sp, miss 2 sts, 3tr, *miss 2 tr, 3tr in next 1ch-sp, miss 2 sts, 3tr; rep from * around join with a sl st into the top of the sttr. Fasten off & cut yarn. [16 clusters]

Rnd 5: Attach new yarn with 1sttr in any sp between clusters, 2tr in same sp, *3tr in next sp; rep from * around, join with a sl st into the top of the sttr. Fasten off & cut yarn.

Rnd 6: Attach new yarn with 1stdtr in any sp, 2dtr in same sp, [3tr in next sp] three times, *(3dtr, 2ch, 3dtr) in next sp, [3tr in next sp] three times; rep from * two more times, 3dtr in first corner, 1htr join in top of stdtr [see the htr join at 22:30 of the video tutorial]. Fasten off & cut yarn.

Rnds 7 – 13: Attach new yarn with 1sttr in corner 2ch-sp, 2tr in same sp, [3tr in next sp] four times, *(3tr, 2ch, 3tr) in 2ch-sp, [3tr in next sp] four times; rep from *two more times, 3tr in corner ch-sp, 1htr join in top of sttr. Fasten off & cut yarn.

And that’s how to crochet a large granny square! Now, sew in all of your ends!!

How to Join Granny Squares

There are a few different ways to join granny squares and you can do so however you see fit. In the video tutorial for the little granny squares, I demonstrate how to Join As You Go but for the new crochet blankets I have chosen to sew them together using the mattress stitch, which is also known as the ladder stitch. I prefer the look and it gives me more control. But that’s a story for another day.

Obviously, you can use this pattern to create lots of crochet squares for your own projects. However, I will pop by very soon to put all the elements together so you can see how to crochet your own granny square blanket.

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