With the rise in popularity of using leftover scrap yarn, I thought it was the perfect time to revisit an old classic: the granny triangle shawl! You can’t go wrong with granny stripes worked into a crochet shawl pattern, so gather all your yarn leftovers; it’s time to work up a fabulous stash buster.
I designed my first crochet granny triangle shawl way back in 2016. I was relatively new to the world of crochet blogging and desperately wanted to put together a step-by-step photo tutorial. For 2025, I have made a few tweaks to make this granny triangle shawl even easier. Although, honestly, the old version isn’t hard at all.
I have tidied the edging of this new (very simple) crochet shawl, and that is the only change. Well, the yarns and colours here are a proper stash-busting scenario, whereas my original version had planned colour placement.
You could crochet your granny shawl in 4 ply, DK, or worsted, to name three different yarn weights. You could use the same colour of yarn throughout, or even self-striping yarn if you want to avoid sewing in all the ends.
This particular shawl measures 68.5 x 145 cm (27 X 57 inches) and uses approximately 225 grams of 4 ply/fingering/sock weight yarn. That’s roughly 1,012 yards/ just under 1,000 meters. For row 55, it’s about 10grams (40 – 45 metres), therefore, this would also be a great crochet pattern for using mini skeins.
Of course, you can make your shawl bigger or smaller. If you want a variation of the pattern, such as using a different yarn weight, the quantities and measurements will probably change. I really don’t think it matters too much for this crochet pattern. A granny triangle shawl can be made in whatever weight of yarn you like, with whatever hook size you like.
As I used 4 ply, I chose a 3.5mm crochet hook, which creates a pretty standard tension, so that there is a nice drape to the shawl.
Whether you’re using yarn stash in your favourite weight of yarn, or going to use all one colour from a special collection, it will likely work for this easy crochet project. But a granny triangle shawl does make the perfect stash busting crochet project, so let’s talk about that a bit more…
The Ultimate Yarn Stashbuster!!
Projects where you can just grab all your yarn leftovers are the best! We’re all a bit skint at the moment, but it doesn’t mean we have to go without. Making sure yarn scraps are used and loved in a new crochet project is perfect. Creating something special from not very much at all? We can achieve that in crochet!
There’s nothing to stop you changing colour halfway through a row, either. Use up every last bit!
You don’t have to use 4ply yarn, you can use whatever you have in your yarn stash. In fact, my original granny triangle shawl is DK (double knitting) weight yarn.
If changing to a different yarn weight, all you need to do is change the hook size you use to create the drape and tension that you like best. You could even mix up your yarn weights for something, perhaps a bit more bonkers, but at least it’ll be truly unique.
The beauty of stashbusting yarn leftovers is that you can create crazy colour palettes in yarn you wouldn’t ordinarily plan. It can seem scary to throw all the colours in one project, but if you’re willing to go with the flow, you could end up with your new favourite crochet accessory!
Granny Triangle Shawl Pattern
If you’d prefer to have an ad-free version of this pattern (US & UK terms available), it is available in my Ravelry store to purchase. Or, if Rav isn’t your thing, find the pattern in my Etsy shop.
The following pattern is written in US terms. (Having explored the type of instructions I share on the blog, I’m now leaning towards US instructions as they seem to be preferred by most readers. I’m happy to share both UK & US instructions, which I have done in the past, but I’d rather not confuse things. Let me know your thoughts! Thanks!!).
Materials to Crochet a Granny Triangle Shawl
As discussed in more detail above, you need approximately 225 grams of 4ply yarn and 3.5mm crochet hook. Feel free to use any yarn you like, mix it up, go wild!
Abbreviations (US Crochet terms)
beg = beginning, BLO = back loop only, ch = chain, ch-sp = chain space, clu = cluster (3dc in same sp), dc = double crochet, PM = place marker, R/S = right side, sc = single crochet, st(s) = stitch(es), sp(s) = space(s), sl st = slip stitch, rep = repeat, yrh = yarn round hook.
Row 1: Ch4 (counts as 1dc & 1ch), working into ring, 3dc, ch2, 3dc, ch1, 1dc, turn. – [1 st & 1 clu per side] Row 2: Ch4, 3dc in first ch-sp, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in next 2ch-sp, (3dc, ch1, 1dc) in last ch-sp, ch col, turn. – 1 st & 2 clu per side] Row 3: Ch4, 3dc in first ch-sp, 3dc in next sp between clu, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in 2ch-sp, 3dc in next sp, (3dc, ch1, 1dc) in last ch-sp, ch col, turn. – 1 st & 3 clu per side, increasing by 1 clu each row] Rows 4 – 55: Ch4, 3dc in first ch-sp, *3dc in next sp; rep from * to centre 2ch-sp, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in next 2ch-sp, *3dc in next sp; rep from * to last ch-sp, (3dc, ch1, 1dc) in last ch-sp, ch col, turn. – 1 st & 55 clu per side]
Easy Crochet Scallop Edging
To achieve the edging in the granny triangle shawl pattern, make sure you have an odd number of granny stripe rows. This way, your scallops will hit their mark in all the right places. Note: You can choose which is the right side to work on at this point
Row 1 (R/S): Ch1, *1dc in first ch-sp, 7dc in next ch-sp; rep from * to centre 2ch-sp, 9dc in centre 2ch-sp, *1dc in next ch-sp, 7dc in next ch-sp: rep from to last ch-sp, 1dc in last ch-sp, fasten off and do not turn. – [27 scallops per side + 1 in center] Row 2 (R/S): Working in the BLO, with right side facing you, join new yarn, ch1, *1sc in each dc st, sl st in dc; rep from * to last st, 1sc, fasten off and cut yarn. Sew in ends. You probably shouldn’t wait until the very end to sew in all ends. There are a lot!!! Sew in a couple every few rows to save yourself from the madness.
If you go wrong, it’s not the end of the world. My shawl has mistakes!! Watch my crochet podcast to see where I messed up!
And finally, this is a very simple granny triangle shawl, and one way to make it truly shine is to block it! It’s one extra step and so worth investing the time. Check out my blog all about blocking your crochet.
I Made a Crochet Granny Square Sweater & So Can You!
I’m going to write a little intro about my new crochet granny square sweater, but honestly, I’m too excited about it to make much sense! However, I will do my best to break everything down and provide as much information as possible, so that you can make your own colourful crochet sweater too.
Firstly, I must remember to give credit for the source of crafty inspiration. This crochet jumper, put together, block by block with happy little granny squares, has been inspired by theAriana Cardigan by Amy Christoffers. It’s a very popular pattern that combines knit & crochet stitches. Funnily enough, I was so intrigued by hybrid patterns for knitting and crochet that I’ve written a blog post about my favourite knitchet/croknit patterns.
Other makers have made jumper versions of the cardi, and they all looked so lovely (on the Rav project page), I was super enthused to make one of my own, in my own colours and actually, with my own granny square pattern.
If you want to make the Ariana cardigan, luckily for you, a pattern already exists and it’s free on Ravelry. What you’ll read here is more of a recipe for a jumper inspired by the original. Probably the only thing they have in common is that the granny squares are on the diagonal and the ribbing is knitted.
Whilst I downloaded the original Ariana cardigan and gave it a quick once over, I didn’t read or follow it for this sweater. Therefore, I don’t feel like it’s wrong to share what I did in recipe format.
The other reason for it being a recipe rather than a pattern for a crochet granny square sweater is that garments using granny squares are a nightmare to grade across different sizes. Blocks of squares aren’t fun to format into wearables, and like me, perhaps you can get a pretty good idea of how to make a granny jumper without a pattern.
Below, I share the charts I drew up for two sizes, both of which can be tweaked to make bespoke, unique crochet garments. I have also shared a few tips on ways to make adjustments to your crochet granny square sweater.
Step 1: Scroll down to charts and decide on large (64cm / 24inches wide) or small (48 cm / 19inches wide). Or make your own based on your measurements and the size of granny square you plan to use.
Step 2: For the large, dig out 700 grams /2000m /2120yds of DK stash in as many colours as you like, I recommend a minimum or 7 or so. The more colours you use, the more higgeldy piggeldy.
Step 3: With a 4mm hook (US G/6), crochet 54 squares and 15 triangles, working the final round with Join As You Go (JAYG) to join the sweater. Be careful at the sides and sleeves – use stitch markers to hold in place.
Step 4: With 4mm needles or hook, knit or crochet the ribbing.
Step 5: Sew in thousands of ends. I saved this until last in case I had to rip back any squares – eg to shorten verrry long sleeves. Actually, you can sew in the first 4 rounds of every single square and triangle before this stage….
What You Need to Make a Crochet Granny Square Sweater
I used double knit (DK) yarn for this patchwork crochet sweater, a 4mm hook and 4mm knitting needles. Tension is not a major issue, as this is a design that’s ideal for making it up as you go along.
Just because I used DK doesn’t mean that you have to. Technically, you can make this sweater in any yarn weight. It’s worth working up a few swatch squares in your preferred yarns to see if they work. You can also get a rough idea of how much yarn you’ll need by making a swatch or two. Don’t forget to add in enough for ribbing, too.
If you veer off from DK, you will likely need to think about the number of rounds per granny square. I’ll chat about my measurements in a sec, and that should inform you on sizing. If you’re thinking of working granny squares that are drastically different in size or yarn weight, you’ll end up with a crochet granny square sweater with different measurements. However, if you’re happy to draft your own charts, I fully support your experimentation by cheering from the side.
The Best Yarn for a Crochet Sweater
I think DK is perfect for a crochet sweater. If you go to heavier yarn weights, garments can start looking a bit clunky and heavy. Everyone is different, and we all have our own personal preferences, so at the end of the day, you can use your favourite weight of yarn. However, as garments go, DK is an awesome yarn weight. I love a lighter 4ply too, but for a crochet granny square sweater, 4ply yarn is more work as the squares would need to have more rounds to get them to the same size, and I kinda enjoyed this as the quick project that it was. Double-knit yarn is a good balance.
If you’re curious about different yarn weights and using something different, check out my blog post on Yarn Substitution.
The majority of my yarn stash here is wool I’d had for a number of years, which deserved to be part of a special crochet project. About five years ago, I treated myself to colourful skeins of merino from Folkestone Harbour Yarns. Then, to complement this collection, I matched it with rich brown shades from Loom Wool. It’s all gorgeous! I love that the browns are all slightly different; it adds a unique quality to my crochet sweater.
How Much Yarn Will You Need?
Make a granny square from a pattern that you’ll be using in your jumper (the one below, or other fave). If you’re being super diligent, wash and block it too. I’m not going to make you do this, but learning how to block crochet is useful for your garment-making endeavours. It determines final measurements (as well as other things), so it will help calculate sweater stats.
Weigh your square, and it will give you a fairly good idea of how much yarn you’ll need for the whole project. Multiply the weight of that one square by the final number of squares (don’t forget the triangles too). This is the total amount of yarn you’ll need.
Not gonna pretend I actually did this though. I just grabbed the lovely yarn stash I wanted to use up (and I am always going to have enough stash!). I think I used 10 colours plus the border colour. I made sure to have 4x 100 gram skeins of my joining colour, but there is plenty left.
The total weight of my finished jumper is just under 700 grams. I cannot recall the specific number, but I did weigh it especially for the YouTube video on making my crochet granny square jumper, so feel free to watch. I begrudgingly calculated yardage and meterage, too! Oof, from memory? Around 2000 metres/ 2120 yards.
The square that you make will also be useful to measure, so you can calculate the size of your sweater too (more on this below).
Cute Granny Square Pattern
There is only a slight change to the traditional granny square with this pattern, but it’s one I think makes a decent impact. The first round is eight dainty little petals rather than the standard four clusters. The following rounds are then just super simple granny clusters.
Find the granny square pattern here. The video tutorial that’s linked in that pattern is also useful to demonstrate the Join As You Go (JAYG) technique.
FYI, I have yet to determine how five rounds of this pattern compare to five rounds of a traditional granny square pattern. Just in case you assumed it was the same measurement. It might not be. *Shrugs*. Whatever the weather, these squares measure 16cm from corner point to corner point. As we’re working on the diagonal, this is the measurement you need.
The Granny Triangle Pattern
Because this crochet granny square sweater is worked with the squares on the diagonal, triangles are also required to straighten the bottom edges of the main body and sleeves. Find the free granny triangle pattern here.
For both the granny square and granny triangles, I worked four rounds of each, knowing I was going to work a 5th round as I crocheted JAYG. Oh, and it’s best to sew in your ends after Round 4 so you’re not left with a hideous job of sewing in yarn tails at the end. Like I was….
Granny Sweater Measurements
Having decided on a granny square pattern with five rounds in DK yarn, there were two choices: go for fitted or oversized.
I was slightly concerned that the smaller option would be too tight across my chest. Knowing the measurements of the squares, I think the smaller size would just about fit my body (99cm circ), but with very little “positive ease” – i.e. extra room. I dithered and doubted enough to opt for the oversized version. Charts for the oversized version I made and the smaller, fitted size that I’d like to make are both below.
The following measurements are taken after I washed and blocked my jumper.
Sweater Measurement Details
My oversized jumper is 4 diagonal squares wide. Remember that 16 = one square’s point to point measurement in cm. 4 x 16 is 64cm (approx 25 inches). Therefore, this is the width of my crochet granny square sweater.
The sweater length, including the waistband, should come in at 53/54cm after blocking. What with the weight of the yarn and the wear it’s had, the final length of my sweater is more like 57cm. I’m happy with that!
The final sleeve length (with cuff) is 44cm (approx 17.5 inches). These are shorter than I would ordinarily make. The drop shoulder construction, paired with the oversized width, means the sleeves start further down my arm. Originally, I hadn’t factored this into my plans as well as I’d thought. So the sleeves I initially made were clownishly long. Bum. Long story short, I ripped out a few squares at the sleeves. I had a terrible time doing this, but I made the effort to change them because I wanted to be satisfied (and happy) with the result. Sometimes it’s worth pushing through the difficult times!
The upper arm depth is 16cm; the measurement of one square on the diagonal. There’s a bit of stretch here, too. That’s OK.
It’s useful to note that should you wish to adjust the sleeve length or main body length by only a fraction, you can add or subtract ribbing rows. I think I went for 9 rounds of ribbing, but redid cuffs and only did 8 rounds the second time around.
Granny Sweater Chart – Square Layout
If I have done my counting correctly, for the size I made, I needed 54 granny squares and 15 triangles. On the chart above, I have shaded out sections along the top of the sleeves and sides for the “front”. These squares are already accounted for on the back section (they’re just folded round – watch the video at timestamp 34:00 to see what I mean).
The chart above was useful to work out the sweater schematic, but what I found even more useful was to lay it out how I actually intended to join the granny squares.
Take a look at the next image. When joining, I left the squares A to H to the end. These needed to be joined in two different places to bring everything together, going from a flat piece of crochet fabric into a 3-dimensional structure. For example, square B is joined (JAYG method) to the sleeve at both the green and blue sections.
Using plenty of stitch markers at this point is enormously helpful as well. I think I would have struggled without temporarily pre-joining squares before crocheting them together. Using stitch markers to pin everything together first allows you to see that you’re on the right track, showing that you haven’t accidentally joined a side of B to the main body instead of the sleeve. You can see how easy it might be to accidentally incorporate the side of E (pink line) into the B join, as it sits right next door!
I also chat about this in the granny sweater video from 31:04, Sometimes it is easier to see a visual of it.
The Smaller Granny Square Sweater Size
Yes, I do want to make a second crochet granny square sweater, and I would like a fitted version. The initial chart for this is drawn up below. I have reduced it by one block in the body and lengthened the sleeves. I have a reasonably good feeling that this will work. If I have to reduce the sleeve length back down, I will. I won’t mind too much! If you have short arms, stick to the shorter sleeve.
However, look at the neck and you’ll see it’s different. It’s deeper at the front, and I left a triangular space at the back of the neck. Ultimately, if I put that triangle back in, the neck space would be the same as the large size, but with more of the action at the front. This means a deeper V-neck and no shaping at the back neck. There’s room for playing around with this, I think.
The neck is surprisingly gapey before adding the ribbing; it would be suitable for several sizes. Play around with the number of ribbing rounds to make adjustments.
Potentially, a triangle could be added at the front to square off the neck into a kind of round neck. I mention this in the video, but watching it back, it just looks like I’m wearing the sweater back to front!
And where it says 49cm, ugh, it’s supposed to be 48. Oops.
Knitted Ribbing on a Crochet Sweater!!
I know!!? It’s crazy, I’m such a huge crochet fan, but I knew I was going to grab this opportunity to improve my knitting skills. From just the ribbing sections, I have learned loads! Not only did I remind myself how to pick up stitches, I also worked Magic Loop for the first time, and tried SSK for the V neck shaping.
For the 2×2 knitted ribbing, I use continental style knitting as it’s easier to switch between knit and purl stitches. It’s got to the point where I have forgotten how to purl in throwing style. Links for the tutorials I used are above, in the resources section.
Don’t get me wrong, I have a long way to go in my knitting journey. If you look closely, you’ll no doubt see that I’ve done a terrible job; regardless, I am thrilled!
Alternatively, there are absolutely loads of crochet ribbing stitches you can use too. You know I love crochet ribbing!!
Adjustments & Issues re “Winging It”
The sleeves! They were way too long for me in the beginning, and I had to make adjustments. If you’re unsure, think about the body width of the jumper. If you are aiming for oversized, take this into account as it will have an effect on sleeve length. Think about the total wrist-to-wrist measurement (up one arm, across the back, down the other arm). That’s the measurement you want to aim for. Not always easy to do.
If your upper arm circumference is larger than 30-32cm, you may wish to consider adding another row of squares at the sleeve to make them wider. This comes with added complications as the construction at the underarm will change. It’s not something I’ve looked at before. In my head, I’m thinking of an additional square to create shaping under the armpit?? Sorry, I don’t have a clear guide for that.
If this is too much of a headache or, indeed, creates deeper sleeves than you would like, this is the moment where you’ll want to question the measurement of a single square. The alternative is to add another round to all squares and triangles. This will deepen the arm depth but also increase the width and length of your final crochet granny square sweater. What would you go for?
Final Thoughts on Making a Crochet Granny Square Sweater
Oh, I have so many photos I could share, but we’d be here forever. It’s all the unpretty step-by-step progress shots that I’m not sure would be that useful. Things like before and after sleeve changes, such as the ones below. They’re reminders of learning and progress, which is good, I guess?
Oh go on then, let’s have a gallery of my new granny jumper!
What do you think? Has it raised more questions, or do you think this recipe will help you make your own crochet granny square sweater?
If you do have questions, please let me know in the comments section and I’l try to edit the post as and when I can.
I always start off thinking crocheting a garment in the “winging it” style will be fun and simple. Making the thing often is! In real terms, however, the writing up of the “recipe?” Goodness me, there are quite a few elements required, and there’ll always be something I’ve missed.
Let’s take a look at how to crochet a granny triangle. Below is a very speedy pattern that I’ve recently used for a crochet granny square sweater. You will also find my video tutorial for these granny triangles on YouTube.
When & How to Use a Crochet Granny Triangles.
Granny Triangles are useful for slotting between granny squares, allowing you to create crochet projects on the diagonal. By which I mean, rather than having lots of granny squares in rows, they’re placed in a diamond formation. To square things off, granny triangles fit neatly between the rotated squares.
Granny triangles would be great in crochet bunting, too. Or, make four large triangles and join them together for an interesting twist on a granny square blanket!
Now that my new jumper is finished, I’m thinking of potential new projects. Imagine a colourful granny square blanket edged with triangles! I do not need a new blanket, I do not need a new blanket….
The colourful, harlequin image above (the one with the ribbing being knitted) is this biased/diamond construction. You’ll see the row of triangles just underneath the ribbing. This granny triangle is the pattern used in that crochet jumper.
Things You Need to Crochet a Granny Triangle
This is a quick pattern and blog post today, so I won’t ramble on unnecessarily. I used double knitting yarn (DK) and a 4mm crochet hook. This is a stash buster, so gather your yarn scraps for this kind of project.
For ease and brevity, I am just using US terms here; note that a US dc (double crochet) is a UK tr (treble) stitch. You can substitute the initial chains and sl st with an adjustable ring (magic circle). When changing colour (every row), a Standing Start is a great alternative to a chain 3. Take a look at the matching granny square video tutorial from 05:12. It’s my fave, but you can keep to chains at the beginning of rows if you prefer. Note that the dc2tog creates what I refer to as a “petal” in the video tutorial.
To begin, chain 4 (I accidentally ch5 in the vid tutorial, but I forgive myself, it’s OK), join with a sl st to create a ring. Row 1: Ch4 (counts as 1 dc and 1ch here & throughout), into ring work *dc2tog, 2ch: rep from * 2 more times, dc2tog, ch1, 1dc, fasten off and cut yarn, do not turn. — 4 “petals” plus 1 st at each end.
Row 2: Ch4 [or 1SSt and ch1], 3dc in first 1ch-sp, 3dc in next 2ch-sp, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in centre 2ch-sp, 3dc in next 2ch-sp, (3dc, ch1, 1dc) in last 1ch- sp, do not turn. Fasten off and cut yarn. — 3 granny clusters per side plus 1 st at each end. An increase of 1 granny cluster per side is made for each following row.
Rows 3 & 4: Ch4 [or 1SSt and ch1], 3dc in first 1ch-sp, *3dc in next 2ch-sp; rep from * to centre sp, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in centre 2ch-sp, rep * to last 1ch-sp, (3dc, ch1, 1dc) in last 1ch-sp, do not turn. Fasten off and cut yarn.
Sew in ends. When it comes to joining granny triangles in a fancy new crochet project, they’re easier to manage with sewn-in ends. Trust me when I say it’s a colourful mess of uncontrollable spaghetti if you don’t!
And voila, it’s as simple as that! I hope you enjoy making plenty of crochet granny triangles. What sort of pattern will you use them in? A granny square sweater? Blanket? Or perhaps some jolly bunting?
Let’s begin by explaining, briefly, what crochet pattern testing is and then going over it in a bit more detail. Also, I think it would be interesting to explore the subject from both the designer’s and tester’s perspectives, so that’s what I’m going to do! Hopefully, I have insight into both because I have tested a fair few crochet patterns over the years, and I am also a crochet designer.
In a nutshell, crochet pattern testing is checking to see if an unpublished crochet pattern works. A group of testers will follow a draft pattern while they each make the finished item. As they follow along, they make sure the pattern makes sense and produces a finished crochet item as the designer intended. They then provide feedback to the designer about the experience and provide polite, constructive criticism.
Let’s be clear from the start, pattern testing is not the same as technical editing! There should be no obligation to fine-tooth comb anything.
Crochet Pattern Testing Vs Tech Editing
On social media platforms, I often find myself reading discussions about crochet pattern testing. There are many honest opinions that are shared, and some folks seem to think that it should involve grammar checks, number checking (maths, stitch counts), pattern formatting, and more. Actually, this should have already been looked at by a technical editor before any tester gets their hands on an unpublished pattern draft.
Tech editing is a paid service carried out by an experienced, trained editor who is a whizz at number crunching and has a keen eye for detail. The advice they can offer is invaluable, and if you are a crochet designer, you should be using their services for nearly all of your patterns.
With that attention to detail, most errors and formatting styles will have been ironed out. It is not for the pattern tester to do any of this, but the odd thing escapes those eagle eyes, and an edit doesn’t show what a final product will look like when made by different hands.
Sadly, most independent designers don’t have a budget to pay for testing and they rely on the kindness of volunteer crocheters who are happy and willing to help.
Why Do We Need Crochet Pattern Testing?
Making sure crochet patterns are clear, succinct and do what they say they do is super important. We’re all human, and even a super amazing designer with awesome tech editing skills can miss a typo or two. Crochet pattern testing helps with that.
To test is to help out fellow crafters in the yarny community. Tests often have a community focus where there are chat groups for testers to convene, ask questions and share their making experiences. I’ve made many friends by taking part in these group chats. It’s also a great way to gain experience and improve crochet skills.
A good crochet pattern test should be mutually beneficial. A designer gets the chance to find out if their new pattern can be understood by real makers. A tester gets an exclusive glance at the design process. Whether they want to become designers themselves or just have the desire to support the work of a small creative business, it should be a positive experience.
The Dark Side of Crochet Pattern Testing
It would be remiss of me to ignore the negative side of pattern testing for crochet. This is kind of what made me want to write about it in the first place. Various online threads of debate discuss both the good and the bad. Obviously, I want to focus on the good bits, but there is a dark side to this topic too.
Both, testers and designers can be left with a bitter taste from a crappy pattern testing experience. I’ve learned that pattern testers can be greatly exploited and pushed beyond reasonable expectations. For example, there are demands for sharing multiple photos, Reels and Stories on social media to “market” a pattern on behalf of a designer. Whilst yes, it is a boon if this happens, a designer should never push this as an essential because it isn’t why patterns are tested.
I know from my own ventures into running testing groups that testers will join to take a pattern and disappear from the group. For me, the most stressful element about a new pattern is the testing phase. I worry constantly about whether everyone is OK. I had one experience last year that I never wish to repeat, where one by one, testers disappeared until it felt like I was talking to no one. It’s a long story that I can’t tell without name dropping a brand that’s much larger than my one-woman band… However, from that time, I also learned that some folks in the world have hearts of gold.
I’ll go over some of these thoughts in more detail throughout the post as well.
Communication is Key!
Unfortunately, as I’ve mentioned, pattern testing can lead to animosity on both sides; the best way to avoid this is to know exactly what to expect.
If in doubt, have the confidence to ask questions. It’s super important that both parties engage regularly and check-in.
As a tester, if you’re struggling, keep in touch to let the designer know there’ll be delays, or if you have to withdraw from the test don’t be afraid to say so. A decent, experienced designer will have factored this into the test and not be reliant on one person. But it is super helpful to let the designer know you can’t complete it, as crochet pattern testing can be an anxious time. It’s not an excuse for rudeness from anyone!
Designers need to be well prepared to update testers regularly. Answer questions promptly and don’t get offended if someone points out that things aren’t clear. This is the point of testing! Listen to what your testers are telling you. If they’re querying what could be an error, check it, don’t dismiss it.
Testing peeps, don’t make assumptions about a pattern, please don’t guess; this is the perfect opportunity to get the designer’s attention. Ask the questions; get clarification.
How Do You Become a Pattern Tester?
There are a few different ways to become a crochet pattern tester. I haven’t tried them all. Each way of finding a testing group will be different. You will find that each designer has a preferred approach.
Instagram – Designers will put out a call for testers by way of a post on the IG grid or on Stories. This is normally how I do it. I create a simple form/questionnaire on Google Drive. Interested crocheters can click on a link to accurately complete the form. This way, I can export all the data into a snazzy spreadsheet; it’s a neat way to keep track of everyone so no one gets missed.
Ravelry Testing Pool – I used this a few years ago with mixed results. There are rules in place, and people are vocal if you don’t follow those rules. That’s OK, there are other similar forums and being respectful is paramount.
Yarn Pond – This is a one-stop shop for pattern testing and testers. Yarnpond has been around a long time, too. I’ve not gone down this path. The website has loads of info, should you be intrigued.
Designers’ List – Many designers (I’m not one of them) keep a list of pattern testers who are keen to be contacted whenever that designer has a new pattern on the horizon. I like this idea very much. However, I feel uncomfortable directly asking individuals if they can take the time to test.
Facebook Groups – Crochet is BIG on Facebook, you are definitely spoilt for choice with all the different pages and posts. Search for testing groups to see if there is one that suits your style.
Requirements for Being a Crochet Tester
Again, for testing crochet patterns, requirements will vary depending on what the designer is looking for with their crochet pattern testers. Let’s break it down.
Crochet Skills Level/Experience
If you have never been a crochet pattern tester before, don’t let your perceived skill level put you off. It is in the designer’s best interest to choose a group of testers who represent all abilities because it’s a truer reflection of those who will want to buy the pattern.
Having said that, perhaps it’s not a good idea to sign up for an advanced and mega complicated sweater test if you have never made a garment before… Be realistic but don’t be put off either. Gen up with these Crochet Tips & Tricks.
Do You Have Time for Crochet Pattern Testing?
Don’t overcommit or overstretch yourself; it’s stressful, and testing should be fun. No one wants you to get anxiety from crochet pattern testing. If you have other commitments, think about the deadline. Is it achievable for you?
Confidence & Willingness to Partake
There are usually some social elements to pattern testing. Not always, but increasingly, tests take place in group chats so that testers can write/talk to one another, share ideas and ask questions about any issues. The designer should be present as much as possible to help answer any queries.
Likewise, there’s an element of independent crocheting as well. If you feel strongly that you can complete a test without needing your hand held throughout, then fabulous.
A Keen Eye & Attention to Detail
Whilst you should not be expected to tech edit during a pattern test, attention to detail is still an essential skill. The odd typo could still be lingering, or perhaps the designer has made a tweak since the tech edit that wasn’t updated correctly. These things happen, and pointing out errors is hugely appreciated. You’re not just helping the designer but all the makers that come after you.
Making Pattern Changes?
If there is something in the pattern you’re not keen on? Ask the designer if it’s OK to change it a little bit. It won’t always be possible, as the designer probably wants to know how the pattern will work up as written. But there will be occasions when it’s not such a big deal. Don’t be afraid to ask.
Providing Constructive Feedback
Being brief with your words at the feedback stage kind of defeats the point of testing. I mean, you don’t have to provide a huge tome of opinions; rather, a few overall thoughts about the pattern, plus measurements and yarn info, would be the bare minimum. If it’s a garment, the designer ideally needs a photo or two of it modelled so they can see if it is what they envisage.
You might be asked about your likes and dislikes about the pattern too. And any changes you made?
Good photography skills
Good photos aren’t just because a designer wants you to push your new FO on social media for pattern sales. Well, it shouldn’t be. Sure, it can be a perk, but good photos are crucial for two reasons.
One, they help other makers see what a garment looks like on all different bodies and show a maker various colour options.
Two, they help the designer see if the pattern looks right across all sizes. It is frustrating knowing someone has tested a pattern, said it’s fine, but the designer doesn’t actually know because they haven’t seen it. As a designer, I have asked for photos and sent reminders, but it’s a tricky one; I’m in no position to make demands for photos to be shared when it’s an unpaid gig.
Crochet designers definitely appreciate good photos shared on Ravelry, too.
Crochet Pattern Testing Tips for the Designer
By the time it’s at the testing stage, a lot of work has gone into a crochet pattern, sometimes months and months. Unless you can pay testers, that doesn’t really matter to anyone else, I’m afraid. You’re relying on the generosity and grace of your community. So the first tip is don’t take advantage, you do not have the upper hand. Even if you’re gifting free patterns as a form of payment, it doesn’t equate to hours of making, and you know it.
Be Clear With Test Info From the Beginning.
Collate as much info as possible before the test to share with anyone who may be interested. Provide information about sizing, gauge, yarn requirements, the lot. Be clear on yarn weights, does fibre content make a difference, or is it not an issue? Is it a secret test, or can makers share their excitement for their new WIP? When is the deadline?
Don’t forget to tell people which terminology you’re using, as you might sign up US testers who aren’t familiar with UK terms. I tend to add all of this at the top of the initial questionnaire I send out. People then know from the start what to expect.
Provided a Generous Deadline
Back in the old days, during crochet pattern testing, I would only give six weeks to make a whole cardigan! Oh dear, I thought six weeks was generous because I had managed to make a cardi in two weeks. It doesn’t mean everyone else can; people have other stuff going on in their lives. Larger sizes take more time, too. I had to learn to plan better.
A full garment with sleeves should probably be a minimum of ten weeks, ideally 12. Anticipate when that will be and plan your pattern launch around it. Think about when it’s seasonally appropriate so you’re not finishing a test for a woolly turtle neck jumper in the middle of summer.
Send a Finished Pattern
I have tested patterns that are supposed to have charts, and the chart isn’t ready. I have tested patterns, and the photos haven’t yet been added. Eek, it’s difficult, but if those things aren’t ready, your pattern isn’t ready to test. It isn’t fair to the maker if you’re not including everything.
Ensure the pattern is as close to how it’s supposed to look on publication. That’s only fair. And if it can’t be, please be clear and make sure folks are good with that.
Whilst we’re on the subject, I’m not a fan of sending a pattern section by section. Not only is it micromanaging more work for me, it also suggests there’s no trust involved. I don’t like that.
Be Open-Minded to Tester Feedback
It’s not always easy, but you need a thick skin to hear other people’s thoughts. I have been very lucky with my testing groups so far, and don’t recall any moment when I’ve felt hurt by any comments. Look at the bigger picture; feedback that is honest and constructive is invaluable, even if it’s worded bluntly. You will produce a better pattern if you listen to that feedback.
Do Not Charge Testers!!
This shouldn’t even be a discussion. Who are you to charge testers who can’t complete on time? I have seen discussions about charging for non-completion of a crochet pattern test. I don’t think this is fair. Luckily, I have never spoken to anyone who has experienced this, so maybe it’s a myth. Bet it isn’t, though.
And whilst we’re on the topic of ridiculous asks, an NDA for a pattern test? It’s a bit far-fetched, don’t you think?
Let The Ghosters Go
It’s not worth getting upset about the folks who ghost a pattern test. Oh, it stings for sure. I’ve been there many times, and as a result, I am learning to get over it. Just ensure you have chosen a couple more testers than you need. Ghosters aren’t your customers, so let it go.
Do You Need Testers Anymore?
This is an interesting one. With your tech-edited crochet pattern, does it even need to be tested!? There are some for and against arguments with this one. I still get anxious about my patterns and feel a lot more reassured when the more complex ones have been made by a lovely group of volunteers who have kindly given their time to crochet pattern testing.
However, the more experienced a designer becomes, the less of a need there is for testing. Apprehension has been nudged out of the way by acquired knowledge.
Crochet Pattern Testing: Final Thoughts
Hopefully, I have covered most elements of pattern testing for crochet. It’s quite a big topic when looking at it from both perspectives. But it is very important to explore this subject from the two angles because there is a lot of involvement from testers as well as designers
Ultimately, one of the key messages to take away from this is to remember that we’re all people doing what we love. Kindness comes from both directions in crochet pattern testing, and it makes me sad when I see folks on the internet arguing about it!
Whether you’re a tester or a designer, tell me about your crochet pattern testing experiences. Have I missed something crucial? Do you approach it from a different angle? Let me know in the comments.
Well, who knew that making a crochet hair scrunchie would turn into making two, three, four, five…?! These little stash busters are totally addictive! In truth, I’ve been making several scrunchies, adapting stitch counts as I go, to ensure the pattern has the perfect amount of ruffles. But even though this easy-peasy pattern has been perfected, it hasn’t stopped me from wanting more!
For speedy satisfaction, quick-fix crochet pattern ideas like these crochet hair bands are ideal when you don’t want to commit to a larger project. The free crochet pattern is below, eeek, I hope you like it!
If you’d like to know how to crochet around a hair tie, this is an easy project that you’ll enjoy making over and over again. I don’t need more, but I just can’t help imagining all the different colour combinations to try and all the different types of yarn that would look fabulous thrown together.
Stash Busting Hair Scrunchie: A Great Way to Use Yarn Scraps
The first iteration of the crochet hair scrunchie came about as I had leftovers from my Cirrus shawl. The crescent shawl uses two skeins of yarn: one lace-weight mohair and the other, a scrumptious DK boucle. There wasn’t much left of either as this shawl uses nearly all of both skeins. However, there were two walnut-sized balls leftover and therefore, ideal for a small crochet design. This version of the scrunchie doesn’t have as many stitches as the final pattern, so there weren’t enough ruffles for my liking. More ruffles, please!
Anyway, what can you do with little nuggets of yarn balls? All of those leftover yarn scraps? Tadah, crochet a ruffled hair scrunchie, of course!
No matter how many yarn scraps you have, you can throw them all into a design like this. The beauty of it is, is that you don’t need very much yarn at all. My heaviest crochet hair scrunchie uses just 15 grams of fingering-weight yarn. That’s only 60 metres!
What’s The Best Yarn For a Crochet Hair Scrunchie?
This design uses a lighter weight of yarn. It allows for more stitches and more ruffles without the bulk. You could change it up to a sport weight, perhaps even a double knit, but I think you’d have to reduce the number of stitches worked around the hair tie on the first round. This is possible to do, and it’s worth a try. However, do bear in mind that it could change the look of the scrunchie.
So, I recommend a fingering /sock weight yarn or 4ply, and when you’re feeling fancy, a lace weight mohair! You’ll need approximately 15 grams, which is 60 metres (66 yards) give or take.
For the most colourful crochet hair scrunchie, all of my smallest yarn scraps were gathered together. Anything from a couple of metres up to around 10 metres, these leftovers from other projects were all knotted together in a magic ball.
This technique is hard to describe in writing, however, I do have a video tutorial that demonstrates how to make a magic knot ball of yarn. It’s for another freebie pattern, but it’s the same knot tying that I used here. Watch from 1:08
I might also put together a quick Reel on Instagram to show you the steps on making a magic knot ball. I haven’t done it yet, wish me luck!
You don’t have to get yourself tied up in knots, though. I have made crochet hair scrunchies by only changing colour after a round or two. There is also nothing stopping you from making them all in one colour. Make them in all the colourful variations!
Using Mohair in Your Crochet Hair Scrunchie
Not everyone loves mohair yarn, but I do! I LOVE its fluffy warmth and delicate halo. I have amassed quite a lot of leftover mohair in my yarn stash, and it works perfectly for this crochet pattern. Actually, it’s not a badintroduction to using mohair yarn because it’s such a small project.
There are a couple of tips that make the experience even easier though. For the first round, where you crochet around the hair tie, use a non-fluffy fingering, sock or sport weight yarn. It’s not fiddly, whereas I think mohair would be for that round.
To make it even less fiddly, I don’t even bother working into the top of the mohair stitches but work in between them. That way, I can just shove the hook in between, and not so much precision is required. Have I ever mentioned that I am a supremely lazy crocheter?! Cutting corners can work sometimes… I didn’t do this for the fingering yarn hair tie though. You could if you wanted to.
Crochet Hair Scrunchie Pattern
Things You Need to Crochet a Hair Scrunchie
Please note that both US & UK patterns are below, make sure to choose the right one. You’ll need a 4mm crochet hook and some yarn scraps from your stash. Go for fingering /sock weight yarn or 4ply, or if you’re in the mood, a lace weight mohair. You’ll need approximately 15 grams, which is 60 metres (66 yards). For the mohair, I only used 11 grams.
And you’ll need a normal, everyday elastic hair tie. I have long hair, so loads are kicking about the house. I used them for this, but I do need to buy some more. You can get ones with bamboo in them, which is great.
Plan on changing colour? I usually just introduce the new colour on the last “yarn over” of the last stitch of a round. Then the new colour is then ready to go. Or use another favourite method of your choice.
Scrunchie Pattern US Terms
This pattern is written in US terms – scroll a bit further for the UK version. Rnd 1: 60sc around a hair tie, join with a sl st, do not turn. [60 sts] Rnd 2: Ch3 (counts as a stitch here & throughout), 1dc in same st, 2dc in each st around, join to the first st with a sl st, do not turn. [120 sts] Rnd 3: As Round 2. (240 sts) Rnd 4: Ch3, 1dc in same st, 1dc in next st, *2dc in next st, 1dc in next; rep from * around, join with a sl st, do not turn. [360 sts]
You can fasten off here or change to a contrasting colour or contrasting texture of yarn, perhaps a thicker mohair or boucle yarn.
Rnd 5: Ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch), sc in first st, ch1, miss a st, *sc in next st, ch1, miss a st; rep from * around, join to first st with a sl st. Fasten off and sew in ends (On my next scrunchie, I plan on adding 2 chains between each single crochet to see what that looks like. I think it’ll create a really nice finish.)
Scrunchie Pattern UK Terms
This pattern is written in UK terms – scroll up for the US version. Rnd 1: 60dc around a hair tie, join with a sl st, do not turn. [60 sts] Rnd 2: Ch3 (counts as a stitch here & throughout), 1tr in same st, 2tr in each st around, join to the first st with a sl st, do not turn. [120 sts] Rnd 3: As Round 2. (240 sts) Rnd 4: Ch3, 1tr in same st, 1tr in next st, *2tr in next st, 1tr in next; rep from * around, join with a sl st. [360 sts]
You can fasten off here or change to a contrasting colour or contrasting texture yarn, perhaps a thicker mohair or boucle yarn.
Rnd 5: Ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch), dc in first st, ch1, miss a st, *dc in next st, ch1, miss a st; rep from * around, join to first st with a sl st. Fasten off and sew in ends. (On my next scrunchie, I plan on adding 2 chains between each double crochet to see what that looks like. I think it’ll create a really nice finish.)
Isn’t that a great pattern for crocheting from stash?! I ruddy love a crochet pattern that uses up scrap yarn!
If you make your crochet hair scrunchie, please let me know. You could add them to your project page on Ravelry too, that way I get to see what you’ve made!
Have you noticed a recent increase in knit and crochet combo patterns? I have started to see more designs popping up on Instagram and Ravelry that combine both crafts, and I don’t mind at all! I think it’s a yarn trend for this year, and I am here for it. I’m ready and willing to give it a go! In fact, I have a granny square sweater on my needles as I type. Eek!
Knit & Crochet Combo Patterns Together
Patterns that combine knitting and crochet have been around for ages. Looking through my collection of vintage crochet books, it is definitely not new. In those books, the focus is obviously crochet, but they are often finished with knitted ribbing. Maybe that’s because more makers were multi-crafted a few decades ago. Perhaps it’s because crochet ribbing wasn’t up to scratch, which isn’t the case today (no old-school crochet dictionaries that I own show half thecrochet ribbing stitches you see in patterns today, and I own a lot of crochet stitch dictionaries!).
Many new makers who learned knitting and crochet during lockdown might still be exploring the first crafts they picked up. I wonder if now is the time crafters are taking the next step and picking up the hook, now that they’ve mastered the needles, and vice versa?
What feels new is the merging of the two crafts within the same design. It is becoming popular again, and this time it is more of an intentional design choice. Knit & Crochet combo patterns are on my radar. Are they on yours?
Through research on Ravelry, Pinterest and the internet in general, I have spotted a few excellent designs for knit & crochet combo patterns. It’s fantastic to see knitwear designers embracing crochet, and I think that’s part of the resurgence. Crochet has become cool and is way more appreciated as a craft in its own right.
What’s interesting with the latest knit/crochet combination designs is that neither one is always the star of the show. In these dual craft combos, there is an equal mix in that it isn’t always crochet with the knitted ribbing, or knitting with a lace crochet edging. I love that those designs exist, but a lot of recent mixed patterns feature granny squares sharing a space with knitted stitches, for example. This is cause for a happy crafter to celebrate! I absolutely love a granny square, but if you don’t, there are other cro-knit /knit-chet (?!) patterns for you too.
Learning New Knitting & Crochet Skills
One of the things that has won me over about combining knitting and crochet in one pattern is that it provides the opportunity to learn new skills. It keeps it in the yarny sphere, so nothing is entirely alien, but it also offers the building blocks for new techniques. It’s super exciting, and that’s coming from someone who grew up with both.
For some reason, as an adult, I travelled on the path of crochet (despite struggling to learn it when I was little). I abandoned knitting as a teenager and forgot most of the skills that my Nanna taught me. Slowly but surely, I am ready to pick up two needles again. Under my belt, I have the basics, but I want more. A way for me to do this comfortably is to incorporate learning how to knit into my crochet.
I am hoping to learn about the differences in gauge and yarn consumption. And I’m expecting to learn from my mistakes – hello dropped stitches! There will, no doubt, be some surprises, and I’m looking forward to that. I am curious about short rows, and picking up stitches from crochet to then start knitting ribbing. So far so good. I remember picking up stitches before!
Hopefully, I will share more of my own adventures soon enough, but for now, let’s take a look at examples of the knit & crochet combo patterns there are…
Patterns That Combine Knitting & Crochet Stitches
I’ve compiled a few patterns combining knitting and crochet below. However, you may also wish to take a look at the Ravelry Bundle for Knit & crochet combo patterns here. There are more fabulous designs in the bundle. However, if you know of any other gooduns, please let me know in the comments. I’d love to hear from you.
Granny Squares in Knitting
I’m grouping some granny square patterns together because knitting designs that incorporate granny clusters are riding high. Granny squares are a popular beginner project for new crocheters, so it makes sense that they’re a bit of a gateway drug for folks who are already expert knitters.
Bubble Pop Wrist Warmers
First up, here we have the Bubble Pop Wrist Warmers by Jen Yard. This pattern made me do a double-take, crikey, I am in love! Jen is known as Everything Shapes Us on Instagram and is a queen when it comes to stash-busting and yarn scraps. These wrist warmers feature dainty little granny squares surrounded by stockinette stitch. The bobbles are worked using a crochet hook.
I plan on making these one day. I have already made a pair that is 100% crochet (eyeballed it), but I think I can stretch my knitting skills for these beauties.
The Geddy Tee
Tanis Lavallee of Tanis Fibre Arts is clearly having a fabulous time with granny squares at the moment with three knit & crochet combo patterns. First came Fleetwood, followed by Jethro. This is the Geddy Tee, which creatively uses granny squares within the saddle shoulder.
I really enjoyed Tanis’s podcast episode where she talked about designing with granny squares. She hits the nail on the head. It’s called Mixing Crochet and Knit in one Garment.
Ariana Crochet (and Knit!) Cardigan
Ariana, by Amy Christoffers, is the source of inspiration for my current knit/crochet project. I am making a jumper version of the Ariana Cardigan and have already completed and joined all my granny squares. Earlier today, I picked up the stitches around the waistband to try knitting the ribbing instead of my usual crochet ribbing. I’d be faster at crochet, but like I said, I want to improve my knitting skills.
This granny square cardi has nearly 1000 projects on Ravelry. Wow!
Prairie Skies Sweater
Ooh la la, just look at the Prairie Skies sweater!! It’s a gorgeous mix of a granny square yoke and stockinette stitch for the main body. I want to make this so I can learn how to knit short rows.
This amazing crochet/knit pattern is by Imke Von Nathusius and featured in Pom Pom Quarterly. It is also available to purchase on its own. I reeaaally want to make this, and it has been in my Ravelry favourites since its release in 2023.
Knitting With Crochet Edging
The Adventure Bandana
With 90% of the knitting population making a Sophie Scarf or ten, it isn’t surprising to see similar scarf patterns popping up in knitting and crochet designs. I have been making the same Sophie Shawl for about three years, and nearly finished. Once I’m done, I’d love to give this knitting pattern a try. Pictured below is the Adventure Bandana by Jodi Brown of the Grocery Girls.
The options for different crochet edgings are fab, they all look brilliant and super achievable if crochet is new to you. I am the other way around, it’s knitting that I’m not so good at, but this pattern? I could totally make this!
Fun fact, I remember when Lily was asking how to measure “nip to nip” when designing this top. Turns out the proper term is “apex”. Whatever the term, the construction of this pretty vest is impressive. This is a pattern for those with more knitting and garment-making experience, but once I’m down the road a bit, yep, I’d make this!
Other Knit & Crochet Combo Patterns
The cute 373 cardigan is by Pierrot Yarns, a company that makes lots of knitting and crochet patterns, including several that combine both crafts. This one is for crocheters who are happy to knit a small section to elevate this delicate design. This is super wearable, and I need to make one, one day.
Where does one person find the time to make everything they fall in love with?!
Link Tee
A crochet yoke with knitted body; this kind of combo design works really well. The Link Tee, by Tomomo Yoshimoto is modern and very wearable indeed. It highlights the best of both knitting and crochet without either overshadowing the other. It has a structural elegance that only both can provide. Loves it!
I have chosen this Marie Wallin design as my last picture to share with you, as Marie is a prolific knitwear designer. Amongst her catalogue is a collection of knit and crochet combo patterns. Anemone is one of my favourites, but there are several that cover all seasons. This one is beautiful and summery, but Marie has also designed a winter collection too.
Want More Knit & Crochet Combo Patterns?
Don’t forget to take a look at the Ravelry bundle that has some of my favourite patterns that combine knitting and crochet. I would love to add more too, so if you know any that look completely amazing, please do let me know.
Honestly, I swear this is a new trend that we’ll see more of over the coming year or two. As crochet becomes more popular amongst knitters and in the crafting community in general, it only seems like a natural direction for designers to explore.
What do you think? Am I barking up the wrong hook? Let me know what you think!
I love everything to do with crochet, and I mean everything! So why not make my own granny square lampshade?!
A few weeks ago, I went to Double Elephant, a printing workshop in Exeter, to attend a fabulous screenprinting day. I knew as soon as I signed up and handed over my money, that my printed lampshade was going to feature crochet granny squares. No surprise there….
And because I know there are loads of other crochet obsessed folks around the old internet, I thought I would share my day and show a few pictures of what was involved.
Yes, I made a granny square lampshade, but really, I think anything goes when it comes to screenprinting. If you can draw it, it can probably be printed onto fabric, too.
I deliberated about other kinds of crochet motifs that I could design for printing, like maybe I could draw lots of different kinds of crochet hooks and have them all lined up like dutiful soldiers. And I considered chart symbols too. But ultimately, nothing says “crochet” more than a gorgeous granny square, right?!
Designing a Granny Square Motif
The screenprinting workshop covered one full day, and the schedule was jam packed. There was only a finite amount of design prep, so there wasn’t much time to dillydally over details. I am glad I already knew that I was sticking to the classic crochet square, as it meant a decent head start. There were a few initial sketches for different aesthetic choices, but ultimately, it was a rush job as each “stitch” was hand-drawn.
I drew a quarter square template and would rotate it every few seconds to quickly scribble all four quadrants. That was done six times over, and there were definitely some “Eeek” moments when things didn’t quite align. Much like real-life crochet, I fudged it a couple of times and everything worked out fine.
Screenprinting Fun
I confess that I didn’t pay much attention to the science of screen printing. To me, the end result was the important thing. It’s always interesting to try new arts and crafts, but I wasn’t here to be wooed; I knew I was still loyal to crochet (TLA!).
But wow, it is pretty hardcore. There are many steps to create a perfect copy of that first hand-drawn design. There’s an intense vacuum machine for one thing! And special UV paint, which I smeared onto my screen and then blasted off with a jet washer, once it had been exposed to light. I had no idea that the workshop would entail such a detailed process. Fascinating stuff.
mixing colours for screenprinting, ready for my granny square lampshade
One Step Closer to a Granny Square Lampshade
With my silk screen ready and the granny squares waiting, I mixed up a rich royal blue ink that I was going to print onto an ecru linen fabric. This was my favourite moment, but sadly, much like other good things in life, it was over far too quickly. I loved squeegying on the paint, it was very satisfying indeed!
Twice, you go over the silk screen with the thick ink and then carefully peel it away from the fabric. There were four of us in the workshop (the maximum number of attendees), and it was pretty funny to see us all standing there, hair-drying out prints (to work the second panel, the first must be dry).
Turning Fabric into a Lampshade
It is actually quite tricky to make a lampshade. I had no idea! It’s a fiddly business, and it took everyone’s full concentration.
Firstly, there’s the sticking down of the beautiful, newly printed fabric. It needs to be done slowly and with caution, placing it onto a sturdy, sticky rectangle of plastic. It must not be wonky! It’s fair to say I messed up a little bit and had to redo mine. Luckily, the fabric wasn’t harmed. Phew!
Then, two metal hoops need to be independently balanced onto two thin strips of adhesive that ran down each length of the plastic. Again, this had to be done accurately or you’d have a lopsided lampshade. Don’t forget all of this was done by hand – I had patiently attached the sticky strips of glue, it wasn’t pre-prepared…
At this point, you could have heard a pin drop. And funnily enough, there were pins involved (to keep everything in place). But I know that no one dropped any pins; I’d have heard them.
Lastly, the two raw edges were pushed into place around the thin hoops. This actually took quite a lot of oomph. It was a tough job. However, the end result created a sleek finish to my new lampshade, and it was very much worth the time and effort. Yay!
I am literally so happy with my granny square lampshade!! It’s just what I wanted, and it looks amazing in my living room too!
Screen Printing Lampshades
Like I said before, if you can draw it, it’s almost guaranteed that it can be printed. One of the wonderful things about the workshop is that you get to see everyone’s different ideas. The other women I spent the day with all made beautiful lampshades; we would collectively gasp in delight when each other’s designs were revealed in ink.
I really enjoyed the workshop and would love to be able to print swathes and swathes of crochet-inspired fabrics. Alas, it’s something I probably won’t get around to doing, but it’s a nice thought.
Have you tried screen printing before? What do you reckon? Am I getting a bit too obsessed with crochet? It’s the tip of the iceberg, you know. If you can think it, I’m pretty sure you can crochet it….
Since spring has beautifully sprung, it is the perfect time to crochet a cotton granny bucket hat! This free crochet pattern is quick and easy to make, which means you could have crochet bucket hats aplenty in no time at all.
Last year, I designed the first iteration, but I couldn’t bring myself to release the pattern. Something wasn’t quite right, so I went back to the drawing board and reshaped my granny striped hat. Look at the images below, it’s quite frilly around the brim, and I didn’t like it. They’re good to demonstrate different colour combos, though. What do you think?
New for this year, this granny bucket hat has more gentle increases, which may actually make it a crochet cloche? I’m not entirely sure. Nevertheless, I am here today to introduce a new crochet granny bucket hat pattern. I hope you like it.
That first granny bucket stitch design must have been alright because I made four of them! All slightly different, just to tweak, but not enough for me to love them. Sad but true. In turn, they developed and evolved from my other crochet bucket hat pattern. Aaand I also have a woolly winter version (see below). Arghh, it’s all connected!
Anyway, let’s focus on the granny stitch hat, shall we?
Granny Bucket Hat Crochet Pattern
To crochet a hat of your very own, I have hopefully provided all the useful information you need. From materials and measurements to making sizing adjustments and learning new crochet techniques. It’s all below…
Granny Bucket Hat Materials
Paintbox Yarns Recycled Cotton Worsted, 100% Cotton, (170yds/155m, 100g) Worsted. You will need just over 50g of each of the two colours. A similar yarn with the same meterage/yardage will probably be OK too. To learn more about yarn Substitution, go HERE.
3.75mm hook (US F5).
Granny Bucket Hat Measurements
This hat should fit a head measuring 54 – 58cm. In other words, an average adult head. I haven’t given a circumference measurement because it’s different at each section of the hat. The hat’s depth is 22cm.
Stitch Tension/ Hat Gauge
Measuring gauge will help you get the right fit of hat. If you would like to know more about getting gauge for your crochet makes, check out my blog post all about measuring gauge in crochet.
Granny Bucket Hat measures: 5 clu / 9.5 rows per 10cm. This isn’t a drapey hat, which is intentional here; I think summer hats sometimes need a bit of rigidity.
Pattern Notes to Read Before you Crochet Your Bucket Hat
The pattern is written in US terms, but I add both terms in all the chat and notes.
A cluster is 3 US dc / UK tr stitches made in the same space.
Using a different weight of yarn or a different sized hook will affect the size of the hat.
I cut my yarn every two rounds and sewed in the ends. It looks neater than floating it for this design. Feel free to float the yarn instead of cutting every other round.
There are quite a few options for changing the size of a handmade hat, but hopefully it won’t be too confusing.
If you would rather not mess around with stitch counts, one option is to change your hook size to achieve a different gauge. Perhaps a 3.5mm hook for a smaller hat, probably leading to a stiffer fabric (which I’m not actually averse to in a summer hat). For a larger hat, try a 4mm hook.
You could also add chains between clusters, which will widen the fit. This would be good to experiment with if you wanted to make a hat using a different yarn weight. Please note that I have not made this hat in a different yarn weight. Yarn substitution is a whole other conversation!
However, having said that, I am tempted to try King Cole Cottonsoft DK, I think it would work (only because I have used it a lot and know how the yarn behaves). Adjustments, like going to a 4mm hook, will likely be needed as the yarn weight is lighter than the Paintbox Worsted.
For ambitious crocheters, adjusting the hat size might also mean altering the number of clusters on increase rounds. Adding or removing a cluster will change the hat’s circumference by approximately 1.5cm (just over half an inch). Round 8 is the increase round where I’d be tempted to add or subtract a cluster if needed. Note that this will affect the cluster count of subsequent rounds. To add depth to a hat, add another round or two of granny stripes between the lower increase rounds. Maybe after round 16.
Special Crochet Stitches
Beg US dc2tog / UK tr2tog: Use this at the beginning of Rnd 1 to work the first “petal”. It uses the same principle as a Stacked Start. See the supporting video for How to Start Round 1 – linked below.
Insert hook in circle, yrh and pull through, yrh and pull through both loops on hook (it helps to gently pinch the st at this point to make the next stage easier), insert hook in left leg of the st and the loop behind it (the pinch helps the back loop to become looser and more visible), yrh and pull through, (2 loops on hook), yrh and insert hook into the circle, yrh and pull through (4 loops on hook), yrh and pull through 2 loops, yrh and pull through 3 loops.
Standing start (US stdc / UK sttr): Of course, you can stick to chain 3 throughout, if you prefer, and I’ve written “ch3” in the pattern. However, a Standing Start is instead of starting rounds by chaining 3 and I use it whenever a colour change is required. It looks much tidier than a 3-chain, and it’s fun to do! Here’s how to do it:
Yrh three times and hold loops on hook with forefinger, insert hook in sp/st, yrh and pull through, [yrh and pull through 2 loops] twice. Let go of the yarn wrapped around your hook. First stitch made.
How to Start Round 1– This is a tutorial for a granny square; Round 1 is exactly the same though.
Alternatives to a Chain 3– This will help you start new rounds neatly. I demonstrate the Standing Start and the Stacked Start in this video. You could even try the No Turning chain, which I bemoan in the video but can actually be very effective!
Not changing colour every round? Watch thetutorial for the Large Granny Square from 30:48 for the first three rounds, and you can use a totally different method for starting rounds, which will achieve excellent results too. This Large Granny Square tutorial is a pretty useful video, as I also demonstrate the Standing Start again too (7:09).
Using the Same Colour Every Round?
If changing colour each round, each round begins with “stdc” for US friends or UK “sttr” for peeps at home, which is a Standing Start – see above.
To make a hat using the same colour can mean using a different method to start subsequent rounds. I recommend trialling all these methods, because you’ll find one that works for you and your crochet projects.
Right, sticking to the same colour? Once the previous round has been joined with a slip stitch, slip stitch into the next two stitches and into the next space between clusters. From here, start the next round with a chain three, or your preferred alternative.
Again, take a look at the video forAlternatives to a Chain 3. A tutorial for the Standing Start is shown in the video tutorial, but if you prefer, there’s always a “No Turning Chain” or a “Stacked Start” too. Did you know there were this many options to start a round of crochet?!
Watch my video for a Large Granny Square from 30:48 for a demonstration of the technique for when you don’t want to change colour every round.
Granny Bucket Hat Pattern
Chain 5 and join with a sl st. Rnd 1: 1Beg dc2tog, ch2, *dc2tog, 2ch: rep from * 6 more times, join with a sl st into the 1st 2ch-sp. Fasten off. – 8 “petals”
Rnd 2: Ch3, 2dc in same sp, 1ch, *3dc in next 2ch-sp, 1ch; rep from * 6 more times, join with a sl st into the top of the first st. Fasten off & cut yarn.
Rnd 3 (Inc): Attach new yarn with 1stdc in any 1ch-sp, (1dc, 1ch, 2dc) in same sp, *(2dc, 1ch, 2dc) in next 1ch-sp; rep from * 6 more times, join with a sl st into the top of the first st. Fasten off.
Rnd 4: Sl st across and into next 1ch-sp, ch3, 2dc in same sp, miss 2 sts, 3dc, *miss 2 dc, 3dc in next 1ch-sp, miss 2 sts, 3dc; rep from * around join with a sl st into the top of the first st. Fasten off & cut yarn. -16 clu
Rnd 5: Attach new yarn with 1stdc in any sp between clusters, 2dc in same sp, *3dc in next sp; rep from * around join with a sl st into the top of the first st. Fasten off.
Rnd 6 (inc): Sl st across and into next 1ch-sp, ch3, (1dc, 1ch, 2dc) in same sp, 3dc in next sp, *(2dc, 1ch, 2dc) in next sp, 3dc in next sp; rep from * around, join with a sl st into the top of the first st. Fasten off & cut yarn – 24 clu
Rnd 7: Attach new yarn with 1stdc in any 1ch-sp, 2dc in same sp, 3dc in each sp between clusters and in each ch-sp, join with a sl st into the top of the first st. Fasten off.
Rnd 8 (inc): Sl st across and into next 1ch-sp, ch3, (1dc, 1ch, 2dc) in same sp, 3dc in each of the next 11 sps, (2dc, 1ch, 2dc) in next sp, 3dc in each of the next 11 sps, join with a sl st into the top of the first st. Fasten off & cut yarn – 26 clu.
Rnd 9: As Rnd 7.
Rnds 10 – 14: Attach new yarn with 1stdc in any sp OR sl st across to start in a sp & ch3, 2dc in same sp, 3dc in each sp between clusters around, join with a sl st into the top of the first st. Fasten off after each round.
Rnd 15 (inc): Attach new yarn with 1stdc in any sp, (1dc, 1ch, 2dc) in same sp, 3dc in each of the next 12 sps, (2dc, 1ch, 2dc) in next sp, 3dc in each of the next 12 sps, join with a sl st into the top of the first st. Fasten off. – 28 clu
Rnd 16: As Rnd 7. Fasten off & cut yarn.
Rnds 17 & 18: As Rnd 10.
Rnd 19 (inc): Attach new yarn with 1stdc in any sp, (1dc, 1ch, 2dc) in same sp, 3dc in each of the next 6 sps,*(2dc, 1ch, 2dc) in next sp, 3dc in each of the next 6 sps; rep from * two more times, join with a sl st into the top of the first st. Fasten off. – 32 clu.
Rnd 20: As Rnd 7. Fasten off & cut yarn
Rnd 21 (inc): Attach new yarn with 1stdc in any sp, (1dc, 1ch, 2dc) in same sp, 3dc in each of the next 3 sps, *(2dc, 1ch, 2dc) in next sp, 3dc in each of the next 3 sps; rep from * 6 more times, join with a sl st into the top of the first st. Fasten off – 40 clu.
Rnd 22: As Round 7. Fasten off & sew in ends.
A Granny Stitch Beanie?
If you love the summer crochet granny bucket hat, how about a warm, cosy one for the winter?
Take a look at my Granny Stripe Hat, which is another easy granny pattern. It also has my favourite knit-look crochet ribbing, which is a bit more advanced but looks stonkingly good!
And if you enjoy these hat patterns, have you visited my free crochet patterns page? Go do it!!
A new Laine crochet publication?! So exciting! I meant to write about Let’s Crochetlast week when it was released but I am a little bit behind. Better late than never, hey? And the same can be said of this beautiful crochet publication. I am thrilled that the wider crafting community is taking crochet more seriously. It feels like we have been waiting a long time….
Laine magazine and Laine publishing have always had a focus on beautiful knitting patterns, and it now adds crochet to its oeuvre. Let’s Crochet is a one-off special, but who knows? If it proves to be popular, wouldn’t it be amazing to see more?
A Laine crochet magazine is really exciting. And what makes it all the more exciting for me is that I have designed one of the crochet patterns that’s featured!! Alongside 16 other contemporary crochet designs, there is Sheila, a cotton tee that is super easy to make.
If you’d like a peek at the other crochet clothes and accessories, check out the Let’s Crochet! Ravelry page. There are some gorgeous patterns within its pages. It’s a long story, but Sheila isn’t on that Rav page yet (not at the time of writing, anyway). It has attached itself to another publication and refuses to let go! Arghh.
Sheila, Crochet T-Shirt Pattern
Shelia is the name of this summery, oversized crochet tee. It has lots of positive ease, so if you want a super relaxed and slouchy fit, this is the crochet top for you. It is a truly laid-back garment design, and I love its super chill attitude. Despite the relaxed vibe, it is also a very practical and wearable crochet tee.
Because of the oversized nature, I have made this top with a modified drop shoulder. That means there is simple shaping at the arm holes, but still very basic. It’s kind of one step closer to “set-in” sleeves, but more casual and way less intimidating. Have you tried a modified drop shoulder before? I think I’ll be trying it again as it’s pretty easy to do and slightly more sophisticated than regular drop shoulder garments.
A Wearble Crochet T-Shirt
My favourite thing about Sheila is that it is wearable as crochet clothing and not gimmicky in any way. It also isn’t holey! If I wear this crochet tee, I don’t necessarily need anything underneath it, as you can’t see through the stitches like you can with other crochet clothes. Sometimes I don’t want a vest underneath, especially in the summer.
It’s also made of 4-ply cotton, which is perfect in good weather. I think I may have been convinced to design more cotton garments, which is something I never thought would enter my mind (winter sweater enthusiast here!).
Inspiration for My Laine Crochet Design
Sheila was inspired by a couple of different things. My Nanna was named Sheila. She nearly always wore short-sleeved lacy knitted tops in the summer (I have a few hastily taken snaps to prove it too! I’ll share one of them below). This drapey design is a more relaxed interpretation of the tops she made for herself over the years.
Nanna wore a lot of greens, blues and turquoise, so I reached for a shade of mint green to go in a Laine crochet magazine.
Also, last year, I designed and made my sister’s crochet wedding dress (the bodice part, at least – our other sister made the silk skirt). I took inspiration from that crochet top as I knew I wanted to explore the ideas of that design further. In particular, the cuffs and neckline. I mean, it’s quite a loose interpretation, but it helped in the design process because I had already been thinking about the little details that could feature in other pretty crochet tops. I’d also learned about set-in sleeves, which gave me to confidence to make modifications for Sheila.
Crochet Testers for the Win!
Testing the Sheila top was quite an unusual process in that I was still designing as the test was happening. Thank you so much to the handful of crochet testers who stuck by me and Sheila. I couldn’t have done it without them!!
The deadline was very tight, and I did not have time to finish the design and then test it, so a small group of heroes helped me as everything was pulled together simultaneously. It was no mean feat, and they are brilliant!! They knew it would be a challenge from the beginning, but they came along for the ride anyway. Thank you to Luce, Meline, Julie, Babz, Naomi and Chia!!!
This blog post is an overview of what blocking crochet means. It’ll be a quick guide to cover all the basics without, fingers crossed, being too hardcore about it. However, there are a couple of things included that are slightly more than “basic”. Forgive me, I couldn’t bring myself to leave out any of the info.
I also need to get through this whole post without writing “Blcoking”. Wish me luck.
Whilst I am not normally a stickler for the rules, I do believe that blocking is essential if you want your crochet to look its very best. You have gone to so much trouble to hook up hundreds of stitches, why not put in one last burst of energy to make your crochet truly shine! I feel that it’s a necessary evil. Blocking crochet makes your work stand out and look even more fantastic than it already is.
If you don’t want to read about this riveting subject, check out my video about blocking crochet. It covers very similar ground, plus it has some comparisons and demonstrations.
If you are relatively new to crochet, you could also read my overview about all the other things you need to learn how to crochet. Hopefully, you find that blog post useful. Aaaand, check out some more crochet tips and tricks here!
For the most part, I block all my crochet garments, as well as shawls, scarves, and cowls. I’ve also even been known to block a crochet hat — with a balloon!
First of all, the big question is: What is blocking? If you hear people talking about blocking crochet, what does that mean?
Blocking Your Crochet: An Overview
Blocking is about making the best of your crochet by using moisture, and sometimes heat, to set your stitches. It changes the fabric you have created into a new form.
When you block your new crochet project, it opens up and sets stitches into their final “look”. Depending on the yarn you’ve used, you can wash/soak, rinse and blot your crochet before pinning it out to dry. Or pin it out first, then steam or spray crochet fabric with water and leave it to dry. That’s all blocking is. You can pin crochet fabric out to particular measurements, but often, you can wing it.
Once a crochet item has been blocked, the fabric size and drape can be different to what your crochet looked and felt like before you dunked it in soapy water. Stitches can bloom open, and yarn softens beautifully. Blocking crochet creates a beautiful drape, and if you’re making a crochet garment, it will make sure that it fits how the design was intended.
Or, if you carelessly steam-block with an iron, you could melt your precious crochet. Please be careful!
Sleevless Crochet Tank Top: Ducky Fuzz, find the pattern on Ravelry and Etsy
What Tools Do You Need For Blocking Crochet?
You do not need ALL the gear. To begin, you can make do with just some basics. When I first started blocking my crochet projects, I used dressmaker’s pins and pinned my finished objects (FO) directly onto the carpet. If the carpet was lucky, I’d put a towel down first. These tools worked, but they were not ideal in the long term. I have since collected a few more items that make blocking crochet a lot easier. (Also, it isn’t advisable to use dressmaker’s pins, or pin directly onto carpet!)
When I realised that taking the extra steps to block my crochet items was worth it, I invested in what I think are the absolute basics: a handful of foam blocking mats and some proper blocking pins (ones that weren’t going to rust and ruin my precious crochet). You may also benefit from having a heavy dose of patience in your arsenal.
Blocking Mats
Blocking mats are usually square foam mats/boards that interlock to give you a suitably sized surface area. They provide a sturdy and protective surface onto which you pin out your crochet and knitting projects.
Buy them from the hardware store or supermarket. I know that some folks use children’s foam play mats effectively, and there are mats specifically designed for the job of blocking. Or, I’ve used a yoga mat quite effectively in the past, however, it is not as structured as a foam mat.
Blocking Pins
You can buy boxes of blocking specific pins. Choose ones that are designed for the job you need them for, like T-pins. Other pins will be too weak and possibly prone to rusting. You’ll likely be using moisture for blocking, so you need strong stainless steel pins.
Then, if you’re short on time or just lazy, knit blockers are a Godsend! They are little sets of sharp pins, held in plastic, that sit neatly together in a row. They make blocking crochet a bit more bearable if you ask me.
I have two boxes of the knit blockers and thinking that a third set might be wise. Two boxes can efficiently block one garment when it’s in pieces. I often block a couple of things at the same time, so need/want more.
If I don’t make it clear in my Blocking Crochet video on YouTube, place the pins at a slant, angling them outwards. This holds the tension better.
Blocking Boards
Blocking boards are great for granny squares. They are solid boards with holes so you can place little evenly spaced dowels to hold the tension of crochet squares and set them into shape.
Whilst I have a few different sized blocking boards like this, I confess that I don’t ever use them. I lost the dowels, which doesn’t help!
Blocking Wires
Blocking wires can be pricey, especially if you’re not going to use them frequently. They are my best friend when I block crescent shawls as they curve with the crochet.
These fine, bendable yet strong wires always ping back to their original form. They are another time saver as they negate the use of quite so many pins. They hold tension evenly along long stretches of fabric, and you only need to place the pins intermittently to hold the wires.
However, with some chunkier crochet projects, you can affect the fabric at the blocking stage because you’re blocking the blocking itself, if that makes sense!? In other words, thicker yarns can be pushed out of shape if you thread the wires in and out of the edges. It can create and little wavey ripple along the edge, and you don’t want that.
Therefore, you kind of have to pick and choose what tools you use for the type of crochet project that you’re blocking. Take a look at the YouTube video about Blocking Crochet (around the 48 minute mark). You’ll see a cowl with a scallop edge. Take note of the edge with the wire versus the pinned edge. Do you see what I mean about the wibble edge?
Before I bought the wires, I used to use knitting needles! Got away with them for the lace weight & sock weight shawl (below) but not the best tools for the job!
The Mya Shawl by Helda Panagary – blocked with Nanna’s old knitting needles!
A Steamer
You don’t need a steamer if you have an iron with a steam function, but I found myself steaming things more than ironing. I no longer know where my iron is since I purchased my steamer. They are a better tool for the job of blocking if you can justify having one.
When you have pinned out your crochet to the measurements you want, the steamer is waved across the fabric, just above it (you don’t want to get too close as there’s a risk of overdoing it).
Once you have gone over the surface areas of the crochet, leave it to dry, and then it’ll be ready.
A Mister for Spray Blocking
I have a spray bottle that is a real work horse, used in cutting the boys’ hair, misting plants and mostly, spray blocking my crochet! This is the “laziest” of the three main methods. More on this in a sec…
A Pool Noodle!?
Oh, I have a pool noodle cut in half for when I block things where a crease would upset me!! Take a look at the bobble cowl pic (below) from my Mix & Match crochet cowl pattern. I don’t whip these out very often, but you can see why they might be useful for some crochet pieces! If they roll towards each other, pop in a few pins in appropriate places to stop them.
Hap Frames for Blocking
Blocking frames are predominantly used by knitters who make hap shawls. I made a crochet hap shawl called the Barton Hap, which featured in John Arbon Textiles Annual 3. My father-in-law very kindly made me a blocking frame so that I could block the two hap shawls I made. They were huge and, without the frame, they would have been really tricky to block. Storing the drying shawls in an upright position was so much better than having them spread across a floor space.
I still employed the wires, too, as there weren’t enough dowels for all the crochet peaks around the edge of the shawl. The crochet shawl needed to be taut, like a drum, so I evenly pulled (somewhat aggressively) and secured the fabric in place. I watched a few YouTube videos to learn how to do this.
A hap frame to block square shawls
Methods to Block Crochet
There are three main ways to block crochet. The method I choose largely depends on what fibre I have been working with. Whichever method you choose, it is advisable to work up a swatch in the yarn you’ve used in your crochet project and block that in your chosen method. How does the swatch react? Because that’s likely to be how your FO (finished object) is going to act.
The chances are that you have to make a swatch anyway, as you will want to measure your gauge accurately. Blocking your tension square in the same way you intend to block final crochet items will give you the information you need. If you’re following a pattern, the gauge info and final measurements will be included, and these give makers an idea of how something should be blocked.
Also, don’t forget to check the yarn label for care instructions before embarking on any kind of blocking.
Blocking mercerised cotton pieces for a fitted crochet top
TLDR Crochet Blocking Methods
In just a moment, I’ll go over each method in more detail, but generally, the three main ways of blocking crochet are:
WET BLOCKING. This is great for natural fibres (wools and cottons alike). It doesn’t work for acrylic as the material ignores the moisture and stretching, and will ping back to its original state. You need to be careful during the process of wet blocking as this feels like the stage when your precious stitches are at their most vulnerable. The fabric stretch will be really evident, so be gentle. The results are usually fantastic.
STEAM BLOCKING. This uses heat as well as stretch to fix crochet fabric. You don’t need to pre-wash, just pin out onto blocking mats to the shape and measurements you need. Use a steamer for the moisture to penetrate the fibres. The mix of heat and moisture will help set the stitches. Be careful with this one; it’s great for acrylic blends, but the heat manipulates acrylic fibres so you could melt or “kill” the fabric.
SPRAY BLOCKING. You have pinned out your crochet already. Next, use a mister (spray bottle) to spritz water over the fabric and leave it to dry. This is another method for natural fibres and won’t work for acrylic yarn. The more gentle nature of spray blocking means it’s a good method for first timers.
Pinning Out Your Crochet
Regardless of the blocking method, 99.9% of the time, you will pin out your crochet. Once you have started pinning out, you may need to adjust and play around with the placement. That’s OK. It happens all the time. Start somewhere in the middle rather than a far end/corner. You can then work outwards towards the ends/corners, which tends to help balance everything better. If you find yourself fannying about too much, step away and then reevaluate.
Use plenty of pins, and/or the sets of blockers. If you use too few pins, then dips between each pointy fixture might get set into the final piece.
That action of pinning out means the crochet fabric will have stretched out a little bit.
Aggressive Blocking?
There are different levels of stretch and pull when pinning out crochet fabric. As with the Barton Hap shawl, which was aggressively blocked on the frame, some crochet stitches and yarn combos look best when they are pulled and stretched into shape. Lace work looks and feels delicate and dainty, but I have often found that these types of crochet fabrics are the ones that need a good seeing to.
That tension creates the drape that is required in a shawl. It might not be so good for a garment as it could end up looking saggy when it isn’t supposed to fit that way. In my experience, you shouldn’t be quite so forceful with garment pieces. A little bit of tension is fine to set those pieces.
If in any doubt about the level of force required in pulling out the fabric, go easy first. It’s less heartbreaking to block a second time, using a bit more welly, than it is to overdo it on the first go. However, I am probably fearmongering here, I don’t think I’ve ever messed up by overstretching.
Wet Blocking
I always follow the same process to wet block my crochet pieces: The bathroom basin is filled with warm water and a small splash of wool wash soap. The crochet is either left to its own devices, or I help it along by pressing it down into the water. Then it’s a case of leaving it to soak for a bit.
Some say that you should leave it for 20-30 minutes to really allow the water to get into the fibres. I say, once it’s wet, it’s wet. And so I only leave it for a few minutes. I might walk off and do something else for quarter of an hour, by which time it should be ready for a rinse.
Fill the sink with clean water and submerge again. Then say goodbye to the wet stuff and gently squeeze your crochet of all the excess water. Do not twist or wring the fabric. Instead, it helps to blot your crochet fabric in a towel. Just roll it up into a sausage and dolly step along the rolled up towel.
Then it’s time to pin everything out onto blocking mats.
I have found that many wet blocked garments can be blocked by their own weight and I don’t necessarily need to use pins. A garment can be laid out flat onto the mats (with or without a towel on top of the mats – it dries quicker with one) and the whole process of washing is enough for the jumper (or whatever) to relax into its new state. However, there are times when the fabric needs a little help.
Wet Blocking Crochet, an Example
Pre-blocking, I was a little worried about the fit of my Little Fluffy Clouds cardigan (pictured below) as the puff stitches were a little tight and the sleeves were a teensy bit too short. Pins were needed to ensure the fabric was stretched more. I needed to be a fractionally more aggressive on this occasion.
Shawls always need pins, they’re not weighty enough to do the job on their own. Stretching and pinning out creates a tidier shape, superior drape and opens up lacey stitches.
pre blocking – bit tight. sleeves slightly too shortpost blocking – relaxed and sleeves fit
Steam Blocking
I steam block crochet that uses acrylic blends (eg, acrylic mixed with wool). Steam works best for the blended yarns, as it treats all the fibres with heat. I’ve used it for cotton too and that’s worked very nicely.
As previously mentioned, there is no need to pre-wash an FO before pinning out if you’re going to steam block.
Steam blocking is often recommended for acrylic fibres, but I will be completely honest here. Whenever I have made crochet clothes with 100% acrylic fibre, I haven’t bothered blocking at all! After a few visits to the washing machine, an acrylic sweater kind of blocks itself. Plus, it prevents the risk of melting with too much heat, which doesn’t happen unless you’re overzealous with the steam.
Hold the steamer an inch or two above your crochet so it doesn’t get the full intensity of heat. Then leave to dry.
Spray/Spritz Blocking
Spray blocking is for light shawls and things that don’t need too much work. Pin out and spritz with water. It doesn’t take very long, and once a project has had a thorough spray of wet stuff, I can walk away and forget about it.
For steaming and spraying, do so away from electrical appliances and plug sockets. And anything else you don’t want to get wet.
Bonus Blocking Methods
If you have a newly made sweater and it’s 100% acrylic, steam will be the most effective. However, I don’t like the threat of my hard crochet work being “killed”, so you could try this easy-peasy method instead. The gentle, low heat of a tumble dryer, after you’ve washed your garment, can be enough to relax the fibres a little bit. Note! I don’t advise this for natural fibres.
Does hanging crochet blankets from the washing line count? I haven’t done this as I’m worried of an uneven finish. The weight seems to pull from each peg and could distort blankets, so I’ve avoided this method. I rarely block blankets tbh. Over time, general use seems to relax them into shape, and I seriously cannot be bothered to block a giant blanket. Eh!
Disco Stitches Sampler scarf. One for steam blocking (acrylic blend, left) and one wet blocked (merino, right)
Do You Need to Block Every Time You Wash Crochet?
The YouTube video about blocking crochet has been up for a couple of weeks, and the other day, I received a very good question: Do you have to block crochet after each wash? The answer is, you can if you want! Occasionally, a crochet project might shrink back a little, or the stitches become a little bit less pronounced. I have repinned and reblocked shawls in the past (if I’ve felt they needed a bit of attention).
However, if it’s for a hand-made garment, you probably don’t need to. It depends on how you can wash it. If you’re washing a crochet sweater made of non-superwash wool, you’ll likely need to hand wash and then dry flat. No pins necessary.
Look at your crochet item, is it a bit lifeless? Would reblocking make it snazzy again? If yes, sure, reblock. It’s up to you.
Which is Your Favourite Method of Blocking Crochet?
Ooh! What a lot of information to take in, especially if you have no previous experience of blocking! I hope it wasn’t too much? Despite it being an overview, there is a lot to cover in blocking crochet! Hopefully, I have covered all the elements. If it raises any questions, please do let me know.
Do you think you’re more likely to try blocking now? Does one method seem easier than another? Which is your favourite? Do you have any other tips for blocking crochet?
Whatever your views are on the subject, I do think it is 100% worth the effort. It doesn’t have to be a scary or time-consuming thing. An extra day or two of drying time to have even better crochet? Yes please!
And I finish this blog post with a cry of despair: How many times must I write that word??! I have mispelled “blcoking” entirely throughout this post, and to make matters worse, my auto correct was on the fritz – sad times.
