Oh Christmas sweater, oh Christmas sweater, how lovely are your pixels!
Sweater? Jumper? Either way, here we have a free crochet pattern (borderline recipe) to satisfy your festive corner to corner compulsions.
I have finally managed to put together a video for you so that you can make your very own crochet Christmas sweater / Christmas jumper using the C2C crochet stitch. It’s super easy to make if you’re familiar with the corner to corner stitch. I would argue that this is an intermediate project and suitable for beginners who are patient and keen to learn a few new techniques.
Below, I have broken down all the essential info you need to make your own crochet jumper but please beware, I haven’t written this as a traditional pattern. It’s a guide, similar to the JW Anderson cardigan that I worked up last year. Actually, tell a lie, this one has waaaay more detail. The video tutorial is HERE. I have also created an ad-free PDF you can download including charts for 9 sizes. You can find that HEREon Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.
Yarn, Hooks and other Things you Need
To make a jumper of your own, you will need Paintbox Woolmix Aran [this is an affiliate link so if you buy via the link I receive a minimum of 5% of the cost]. I bought 10 balls of the main colour for size 3, Vanilla Cream, and used nearly all of it! The numbers below are estimates based on the weight of the sample size.
Est. yarn weight in grams
Also required are a few metres of each of the five contrasting colours for the motif section. You could always use just one colour for the motif if you don’t want to buy whole balls of each colour just for a few metres.
I used a 3.75mm hook. I have average tension. This hook, with this particular yarn, creates a closed fabric that is not so tight that it feels stiff.
Oh, and stitch markers are helpful. I use them to pin pieces together.
Ideally you want to print out the C2C colour chart. Grab a pencil for crossing off each row as you go.
A decent needle for sewing everything together is also required.
Grading & Sizing your own Crochet Christmas Jumper
It is pretty important to make sure your Christmas sweater is going to fit before picking up a hook and buying loads of yarn. Let me try and provide you with as many tools as possible to work out a size that will fit you.
The sample I made is nearest to a UK 12 but after a bit of wear I suspect it may stretch to a 14. I broke the rules and didn’t block! If you are in between sizes you may wish to make the smaller size.
First things first, it is a very good idea to work up a swatch. You can use this swatch to determine how many C2C blocks you’ll need to work. Bear in mind that every 6.5 blocks is a measurement of 10 cm (4 inches). This will help you work out how many C2C blocks across you need your jumper to be. Work up a C2C square that’s 12×12 blocks to ensure you have a decent amount of fabric to get an accurate measurement. To be fair, you might get away with 11×11 if you’re feeling lazy!
A useful trick is to find a favourite jumper and measure it. How many blocks will you need to get the same width and length?
To fit Bust (inches)
28 – 30
32 – 34
36 – 38
40 – 42
44 – 46
48 – 50
52 – 54
56 – 58
60 – 62
To fit Bust (cm)
71 – 76
81 – 86
91.5 – 96.5
101.5 – 106.5
111.5 – 117
122 – 127
132 – 137
142 – 147
152 – 158
Width (back) in cm
Length in cm
Body Blocks across
Body Blocks down
Corner to Corner Chart
Stitchfiddle is such a good tool for creating crochet C2C charts. If you’re making a different size to mine you can find the charts in the ad-free PDF on either Ravelry or Etsy. Or try creating your own design chart. Be careful, chopping and changing design ideas is addictive and before you know it, you’ll have lost hours by fiddling about!
Working the Corner to Corner Stitch
If you’re an absolute beginner, then this actually isn’t too bad of a C2C project. However, I do assume you have the crochet basics under your belt. I don’t plan on writing specific corner to corner instructions, instead, I demonstratehow to work a swatch in thevideo.
The basics of of corner to corner are that you build up each row one block at a time. When it’s time to stop building your blocks, you decrease until you reach the opposite corner. However, none of the pieces are exactly square. After building enough blocks to reach the first corner, you then work even by only increasing on one side to create the rectangle shape. Decreasing is my fave bit as it’s the race to the finish line!
Crochet Sweater Pieces
The pieces of your Crochet Sweater are made separately and sewn together.
The front and back are the same except for the colourful motif on the front. As you know from diligently watching all of the video, I made my front panel upside down to get the colour work done & dusted before the easy stuff could commence. This is why the charts are upside down.
Once you have the corner to cornering done, you can work a Join As You Go rib. I love this bit! Check out the video for the demo on how it’s done. I’ll try and remember to add the timestamps on YouTube for all these useful sections.
For the front piece I snipped the yarn from the main body piece and reattached to the right top corner. Work 3 sc in each vertical block and 2 sc in the bar of the stitch that lays horizontally. When working the back you can just turn, you don’t need to cut the yarn.
Snip again (both front & back) to reattach to the top right side. I think I decided on 11 stitches for the ribbing, so chain 12 to begin. All hdc (UK htr) sts are worked into the front 3rd loop of the st below.
Row 1: 1hdc in 2nd ch from hook and the rest of the chains to end, slip stitch in next 3 stitches of main body, turn to work back up the ribbing.
Row 2: Miss 3 sl sts, 11hdc in front 3rd loop of sts, turn.
Row 3: 1ch, 11hdc in front 3rd loop of sts, sl st in next 3 sts of main body, turn.
Rep Rows 2 & 3 across. You might end on Row 2 or Row 3 depending on how many stitches your foundation row is. It doesn’t matter which!
My sleeves (size 3) are 23×28 blocks. Look at the chart below and you’ll see how many blocks wide to make your sleeves. Don’t worry too much about sleeve length for different sizes. I often make the sleeves the same length across several sizes because our arms aren’t drastically different in length. If you know you have shorter arms, or they’re longer than average, then allow for that, add or remove a row. However, you will want wider sleeves if you’re after a bigger jumper.
Sleeve Length (from under arm to wrist) in cm
Sleeve depth at underarm in cm
No. of Blocks for sleeve length (cuff not inc)
No. of sleeve blocks across (total)
Make 2, obvs. I worked a foundationless chain of 25 stitches and worked 22 rows in hdc (UK htr) in the front third loop. It’s in the vid but you can also find the foundationless start HERE as a separate video tutorial.
My wrists are a skinnyish 14cm circumference. Add 2 rows for every centimeter.
Sew the cuff ends together to get them ready to ease into the sleeve.
Whatever your size jumper, make the waist band approx 10cm (4 inches) smaller than the circumference of the main body of the jumper. Reducing the circumference here brings the jumper in to create a bit more shaping. I worked 11 stitches for 120 rows of ribbing for my size 3, hold it up against the main body to check you’re happy with the length of yours. This was very much an eyeballing task.
Work the ribbing in one length to go around the circumference of the jumper, then sew the ends together.
All your pieces are finished, now it’s time to put it all together. So near yet so far! Exciting stuff!
Make sure all sewing is done on the wrong side of your jumper. Pay attention. Double check. Triple check that right sides are facing each other. It is guaranteed I will get this wrong at least once in any garment I make! Unpicking is par for the course for me but please try and do better than my efforts!
Below is a visual image of the steps of construction. Basically, sew the shoulders together first. I went for 10cm at each shoulder tab and I’m happy with that. More or fewer stitches will be required depending on what size you make.
Then sew the open sleeves to the shoulders. I don’t need to spell it out to make this evenly, equally spaced and at the centre of the shoulder. Fold the whole lot over, right sides facing, so you can sew the arms and body together. Voila!
Next up is to attach the ribbing on the sleeves and waistband.
For the sleeves, gather them at the wrist by creating a foundation round of sc stitches (UK dc) around the opening. Work 1 sc over each bar of the horizontal dc (UK tr) stitches and 2 sc into each of the vertical blocks. This brings in the sleeves a bit to make it easier to attach the ribbing. Then use plenty of stitch markers to hold the cuff in place whilst you sew it on. You will probably find the video useful for this bit.
Easing in the waistband is far easier. Use stitch markers to hold it in place here too.
Overview: How to Crochet a C2C Sweater
Much like the GB Bake Off final, I have taken away some of the instructions. Please refer to the charts to determine how many blocks across & down you need to work to make your size. And watch the video to see how to make everything! Purchase the ad-free version on Ravelry or Etsy.
Step 1: Make a gauge swatch! 12×12 blocks should do it.
Step 2: Make your C2C pieces – 1 back, 1 front (both the same number of blocks), sleeves x2.
Step 3: Add join as you go ribbing to the tops of the main body – see video tutorial.
Step 4: Make ribbing for cuffs and waistband. Work the waistband so that it’s roughly 10cm (4 inches) shorter than the main body of your jumper.
Step 5: Sew shoulders together.
Step 6: Sew sleeves to shoulders.
Step 7: Fold in half, right sides facing, sew along sleeves and down body, both sides.
Step 8: Add the foundation to the sleeves and ease in the cuffs.
Step 9: Ease in waistband. There’s no need for a foundation round here.
Step 10: Blocking? You can if you want. A light steam block is my recommendation but I’m going to let the wearing of it do the job.
How did you get on with your C2C Christmas sweater!?
Well, hello and good day! Or, if you’re from the West Country, alright me ‘ansome?!
There are unsubstantiated rumours that the Ottery St Mary born poet, Samuel Taylor Coleridge would often greet people with “Alright, me ‘ansome” as a way of saying hello. Whether he actually addressed people with this local greeting is a mystery; it’s fun to think that he might have but my money says it’s a made up lie!
Ansome is a crochet hat pattern that is essentially two hats in one. Having made a hat with my new obsession, the puff stitch, I had plenty of yarn left to make a second hat. Both hats start with the same pattern but end up as two different styles.
The written pattern for Ansome is available on Ravelry HERE and Etsy HERE. There is 25% off until the last day of November.
Crochet Puff stitches
Ansome is now available on Ravelry & Etsy but it has been a couple of months in the making. For a while I have been sketching lots of designs using different sorts of crochet puff stitches. The first idea came to me at the beginning of the year. That one turned into the Wheatfields shawl, which is now a fully fledged pattern in its own right. You can find it HERE and HERE. It’s a fabulous combo of hand dyed 4 ply merino and lace weight mohair.
Working up puff stitches is really calming and rhythmic and they are awesome in all kinds of projects. They look fancy but are relatively fun and easy to do. However, do make sure you have a good crochet hook. I used a Knitpro hook, which is not normally my first choice as my hands are too big for the short handle, but it does have a good hooky bit! It helps when pulling through all the loops so try some out before you begin your project.
Potentially there are more puff stitch designs waiting in the wings for me but I think I will revisit those next year. For now I’m happy to focus on these crochet hats, which have come together in a way that felt like a breeze. They’re just meant to be!
We’re in November now and headed towards chillier weather in the northern hemisphere. When is a better time to release a hat pattern!? It has worked out quite nicely; I don’t think I had any intention of coming up a hat design. It wasn’t on my list of things to do but sometimes things just work out that way.
The catalyst was a single picture shared on Instagram. I saw a collection of Devonia mini skeins from John Arbon Textiles and fell a little bit in love with the colours. Instantly I knew they should be a crochet hat. So I made one!
Devonia is what I call a proper woolly wool. Warm, comforting and with the essential sheepy smell that I could breathe in all day. It’s a combination of Bluefaced Leicester (an all time fave) and Blueface Exmoor (from Devon, proper job). It also has Wendsleydale & Romney lustre breeds, which, if I’m right, add the shiney sheen that I always think looks super pretty and works really well with crochet.
I am very lucky in that, when I left a comment on the IG pic, to say it was a stunning combo of shades, the super smashin team from JAT asked if I would like to try them. This doesn’t happen everyday. I have no idea why they are willing to support my crochet adventures, I just know that I am very grateful to get the yarn support. Thanks Sonja!!
Maybe it is because it isn’t the first time. Remember the Grainbow shawl from a couple of years ago? And the infamous Dreckly mittens? That’s a triple whammy of JAT yarns: Knit By Numbers, Yarnadelic, and now Devonia! How about Harvest Hues next!?
Devonia comes in DK and 4 ply weights, and 25g minis and 100g skeins. That is one of the best things about JAT yarns, lots of options and versatility. For Ansome, you need 100g of DK for the main colour plus your colourful minis for the contrasts. Oh and I almost forgot! One of the reasons that the guys were sharing Devonia pics is because there are news shades that have just been released. I used Wood Smoke as my main colour, which is one of the new ones.
Having that much yarn meant there was too much left over to do my usual trick (hide it in the cupboard and struggle for stashbusting ideas). There was only one thing for it, if JAT can have all the options, so can I! Ansome mainly refers to the star of the show, which is the puff stitch hat but the remaining yarn was calling out too. It wanted to be striped up as a “plain” crochet hat. So there are two patterns here and you can make both!
The pattern has three size options and there’s freedom to add more rows if you want extra slouch. I made the medium size for both hats and the puff hat has just a little bit of slouch as there are more rows. A few subtle changes like that and you have two different styles of crochet hat! How good is that?!
The puff stitch hat was blocked too, and that added to the drape. Unsure about blocking crochet hats? I certainly was. So I did what I normally do and guessed. I blew up a balloon inside Ansome to what seemed like my head size and then gave the hat a light spray of water. Once it had dried, boom, perfect hat!
And that is pretty much all you need to know about these new crochet hat designs! Can you think of anything you’d like to know? If so, please do get in touch. In the meantime check them out of Ravelry HERE and Etsy HERE.
Ta very much. I would end by using a Devon way of saying goodbye but I can’t remember any phrases.
I bought two things from Loop in London. The yarn? It’s Schoppel Wolle. My Mind (Yarn) Palace is clearly crap! I almost got it right, I’d just blended the two words. I also bought a cute set of Rico crochet hooks.
I used John Arbon Textiles, Devonia in DK for my new hat designs. Lovely earthy yarn as always. Beautiful shades and truly warm and woolly. I love that their minis are 25 grams. I can do so much more with 25 g than 20 and always manage to use it all up! (all my own words, I have decided to gush cos I love it so! although, yes, I did get yarn support to make my new hats).
Wheatfields, my new shawl and wrist warmer design is OUT NOW!! There is 25% off until the second Sunday of November. Buy it from Ravelry or Etsy to get the automatic discount. It is also now on Lovecrafts at full price. To make Wheatfields I had 2 hanks of 4ply/fingering weight yarn from Flyy Dyed. I bought it last year and new it was destined for this shawl! My shawl is unique because more often than not, Rachel’s’ creative colourways are OOAK! (One of a Kind). I also held it double with a lace weight mohair. I chose Austermann Kid silk, which is super nice too.
I briefly showed you a crochet symbol stencil from the Crochet Cypher. I was rudely interrupted by the cat so didn’t actually finish. I am sure I would have gone on to say that you can use it to create neat, hand drawn charts. It travelled all the way from Australia!
I will be making lots of new garments over the coming months. Whether I finish then or not is another matter! Too many ideas and no focus. That’s my problem. My head is always turned by a new idea. You’ll never change me! But do expect some progress on a couple of them.
Welcome to Episode 93 of the Zeens and Roger Crochet Podcast. To watch the episode please click on the picture above. Or hop over to the whole You Tube channel HERE.
Links to the Crochet Good Stuff
Stashtober 21 CALin the rush to film the podcast I forgot to mention many things. I forgot to tell you that throughout October you can get 25% off all my patterns on Ravelry and Etsy. The code is in the Stashtober blog post.
Do you know what will never not be popular? Stash busting! The art of using up yarn scraps and leftovers so nothing is wasted. We all have stash hidden somewhere in the house and rather than keeping it tucked away, how about getting the whole lot out and using it!?
Busting your stash can be a real feel good experience. It can also lead to an absolute dog’s dinner of a disaster but let’s just say that we all learn from those situations and move on. Using up every last scrap is hugely satisfying and there are a number of crochet patterns out there to aid you in your exciting mission.
I was watching Claudia Carpenter’s crochet vlogcast on You Tube the other day (I’m sure you know Crochet Luna). I am pretty sure she said “No CALs”. It made me laugh when, just a couple of days later, she got in touch with a handful of designer friends to ask, how about a stash busting Crochet Along? We’ll call it Stashtober!
Crochet Alongs are extremely popular these days, in fact, I’m taking part in another one right now. Have you seen the Mixtape Medley? It’s a crochet blanket I designed with Knitcraft and I see it as the ultimate stash buster. We’re currently on Week 2 and I’m mentioning it as it fits in perfectly with Stashtober 21.
But I’m not going to talk about that CAL because this post is about Stashtober 21! So, should you wish to partake, Claudia’s idea is for crocheters to choose a pattern or many patterns from the selection of designers she has invited to take part. One of them is me! To make life a bit easier I’ve put together a bundle on Ravelry especially for this event. You can find it HERE. I added patterns (both free and paid) that I thought would be great for using up lots of lovely stash. Especially for Stashtober, during the month of October, you can get 25% off any of my patterns on either Ravelry or Etsy. At the checkout please use the code: STASH21
If you don’t fancy making one of my designs, there are other contributing designers with the perfect pattern waiting for you.
The CAL Designers
Other crochet designers taking part are some of my absolute favourite people in the crochet community. A lot of us have known each other for a long time and are firm friends.
Claudia is the brains behind it all and has a couple of designs that would work brilliantly for Stashtober. I really enjoyed making Encanto, a scarf with lots of lovely twiddly stitches. Pop over to her Etsy shop to peruse the good things.
Fay of the Crochet Circle Podcast is a champion of artisanal crochet design. I wouldn’t mind working up Loft in a collection of colourful yarn. Crochet and stripes are a brilliant match.
Caleisha of the Quirky Monday Craftcast designed my favourite scarf of last year (or was it the year before?), the Just Feel Festive shawl. I used loads of DK acrylic scraps. It was totally worth all the ends.
Clarisabeth from Crochet Cakes has fab designs to choose from. If I have the time, I absolutely have to make some of Clarisa’s Vintage Wave socks. Check them out.
Michelle aka Dora Explored/Dora Does, has garment making savvy by the bucketful. I might find myself making her latest design dedicated to busting stash, the Waste Not, Want Not sweater. There a couple of other designs that are perfect for stash busting too.
Heather from HG Designs is all about the granny square. The granny square is the most famous stash buster of all time and Heather has some awesome granny designs out there. Making Revival was an absolute joy!
We are an eclectic bunch, it’s guaranteed that you will find a huge variety of crochet styles between us and therefore, you are bound to find the perfect pattern.
Stash Bust Rules
Fear not, there aren’t really any rules other than the projects you make must be made from yarn you already have. Do not buy new yarn! That is it! Also please ensure that your project is not already over 50% complete before the 1st October. So WIPs do count as long as it’s not close to being finished. And don’t forget to choose designs from the crochet champs above.
On the 23rd of October Claudia is also hosting a live Zoom chat. It’s 8pm BST. I have something else in my diary that day but I would love to be there so I’m going to see if I can pull some strings!
There are no prizes for this CAL, that’s not the point. But there are loads of other great reasons to dive right in.
This is an opportunity to create the satisfying feeling of putting old yarn to good use. It’s about community. And also, perhaps it’s introducing you to a designer who you were previously unfamiliar with. There are so many good reasons to take part that prizes aren’t needed! These aspects are rewarding enough, don’t you think? What’s usually used as a CAL prize? It’s new yarn! That’s the total opposite of stash busting!! Not gonna happen for Stashtober!!
I love that Crochet Alongs are community led, it’s better than any other prize I know. You can be as active or as quiet as you choose. Perhaps you’re happy to just loiter and see what others are making. Or, you might fancy chatting on Ravelry or Instagram, or wherever else! It’s entirely up to you. This should be the ultimate No Pressure CAL.
Hopefully we will see you and your makes throughout October! Let us know what you’re making, what stash you’re using etc. We would all love to hear from you. #Stashtober21
Hallooooo! Happy autumn!! What better way to celebrate a new season than to crochet yourself a new cosy blanket? Fancy it?! The Mixtape Medley blanket is ideal for mixing up classic stitches that you probably already have in your crochet repertoire. The only thing that’s really different is that they’re all brought together as one, with a jazzy, stash busting colour palette.
When I was asked by Knitcraft back in April to come up with ideas for an 8 week Crochet Along I knew exactly what I wanted to do. The brief was to create a design that would introduce beginners to new stitch combinations with a palette that used a variety of different shades (not too rainbow bright, not too autumnal). Much like the rest of my design work, I wanted this to be a bit different!
When you think of classic crochet, what stitches do you come up with? Granny is there, isn’t it? Bobbles too? And I bet those who know me will immediately say Corner to Corner!! It’s all in the Mixtape Medley! And recent favourites such bold colour blocking and plaid feature as well (I’ve been calling it plaid but perhaps it’s gingham?). I desperately wanted a ripple stitch in it but that wasn’t to be. The inevitable concertina effect would have been a nightmare. Instead, I invented a new puff wave stitch. The undulating waves are most welcome, plus there’s the added bonus of delightful texture with some plump puffs!
This Mixtape Medley Crochet Along is hosted by Knitcraft on the Hobbycraft website in their Ideas section. Knitcraft is the yarny arm of Hobbycraft. Over the next few weeks the written pattern will be released bit by bit so that you can enjoy a few hours of crochet each week. And the best bit is that this is a free crochet pattern!! FREE! Fully tech edited and tested as well, which I love. Everything has been extremely well thought out.
Don’t forget to share your makes on Instagram with the hashtags #MixtapeMedleyCAL and #MixtapeMedleyComp
Now with US terminology! Go HERE to find the written pattern in all one place!
Crochet video tutorials
At the beginning of August I travelled along the coast to a studio in Southampton to record video tutorials. We recorded videos for each stitch and included other helpful bits of information too. It was a really interesting and exciting day! Not something I’ve done before. A few weeks later, once the videos had been put together, I watched them through so I could write a script. Then, it was back to the studio to record the sound.
Anyway, this is a long-winded way of saying the video tutorials are HERE! You might notice that I look a bit like deer in headlights and that’s OK. I may seem super chilled out in my podcasts (usually amateurishly filmed at home in me jammies) but that’s a completely different kettle of fish. No hot studio lights, clapper boards or people you’ve never met wiring you up with a mic n stuff. The experience of working in a studio was awesome and nerves should never stop anyone from doing something new.
Seeing everyone getting their boxes of yarn is so exciting! As well as being able to buy the yarn kits from Hobbycraft in super special Mixtape Medley boxes (OMG they are totally gorgeous!), you could also bust your stash and go your own way with colours. This isn’t the kind of blanket where rules apply….well some rules do (count your stitches folks!)
Multiples are given so you could easily make adjustments to make it smaller, or bigger if this isn’t big enough (it’s a single bed sized blanket). I fancy a scarf version myself and hope to make one during the CAL. Hey, you could even get your nails done to match if you wanted to!
I think that’s it for now. If you have any questions then ask away. I’ll try and get to them as soon as I can but the idea is that you can find all the info you need on the Hobbycraft website so do go there first as details about yarn and sizing etc is all there.
Well well well, if it isn’t time for a new crochet podcast! Please join me for a crochet chat about all the good things including information on the Mixtape Medley CAL and some other brand new designs.
Moorit magazine. Issue 1 has my Super Gran shawl, otherwise known as Gudrun.
Pinterest. Please have a look around, follow and pin some pins!
Patreon. I love my Patreon peeps, they’re awesome. Fancy joining in? You would be most welcome.
Check out the lovely Rachel at Flyy Dyed yarn. I’m using the colourway Ductile, which I think might be a OOAK. The beauty of Rachel’s’ colour designs is that they’re unique so grab them when you see the colours you love!
Blacker Yarns. I’m curious to know what their new Woodland range would be like in a jumper.
Mohair yarn is the candy floss of the wool world. Its popularity has been on the rise for a few years and it is now everywhere you turn. It’s hard to avoid it and it seems that repeated exposure to colourful, fluffy yarn online means that I have joined the floof party.
Working with mohair in other recent crochet projects has provided me with the material to write a future blog post all about it. But that is being saved for another day because what this post is about is the Perfect Mohair Cardigan. A crochet cardigan that ticks all the right boxes for a fun, bright and cosy garment.
Perfect Crochet Cardigan
A few months ago I released the Perfect Cardigan, a crochet cardigan pattern that is perfect for anyone who has mastered the basics of crochet and wants to try and make a proper wearable garment. Using that pattern I made this mohair version. However, because the yarn is chunky kid silk mohair (I bought it from MYPZ) the gauge is ever so slightly different. For those wishing to make one like this, I thought it would be helpful to provide you with some useful tips and info on the adjustments I made.
For the tldr crowd, the easiest way to get yourself a cardi that looks something like mine, is to use the original pattern but make a size smaller than you would ordinarily choose. It might end up longer than the original so watch out for that (it’s what the rest of this blog post is about). Being someone who enjoys making life difficult, I did lots more faffing than just dropping down a size…
Adjusting handmade garments
Generally speaking there will be no “one pattern suits all” when it comes to making your own clothes. That’s a given. Whilst I have done my best to design a garment that will universally suit all, we all have different tastes and preferences. With a bit of jiggery pokery, you can make a few adjustments to tweak it into becoming perfect for you.
Adjusting patterns is usually a case of having a play around, frogging and trying again (on repeat). Lengthen the depth of cuffs, waist or button bands with additional stitches, widen them with more rows. Add or subtract rows of the main body to crop or lengthen the body. Begin sleeves with additional stitches to create more volume. There are lots of variations to experiment with. However, this is problematic with mohair. You run into the risk of frogging! You definitely want to avoid frogging your work because mohair never wants to let go once it’s snuggled comfortably into a row of stitches. It’s better to have a good idea of what you want before you travel down that path.
Let’s be honest, mohair might not be the best yarn to start learning how to make garment adjustments. It would be beneficial to have already made a few crochet clothes beforehand. If you’re interested in the ultimate guide to making crochet clothes that fit, I recommend this ebook from Dora Does. Michelle, an amazing designer and tech editor, gifted me a copy, she provides an absolute wealth of information on the subject.
Aaaanyway, here are some tips to consider when you make a Perfect Mohair cardi. Please bear them in mind when you embark on making your own version!
Tip number one
When turning this into a chunky mohair cardi is, take your sweet time! It’s a quick make anyway so there’s no reason to jump the gun.
Tip Number Two
Make sure you have enough yarn! The yarn is different but not massively so, which is why it’s OK to substitute it. My mohair cardigan (a sort of mash up of sizes 2 & 3) weighs 575g (the MYPZ chunky is 100m/50g). The original (size 3) weighs 656g (the Paintbox Worsted wool I used is 200m/100g, so the numbers kind of suggest it’s match). The light and fluffy fibres of the mohair means it comes a bigger size though. The chances are, the body and sleeves will be longer and wider (see Tip 4).
I used 11 colours. 13x 50g balls of mohair. 2x Dark grey, 2x Taupe, 1 of each in: RAW Dark Blue, Peach, Bright Purple, Neon Pink, Neon Yellow, Turquoise, Warm Purple, Orange, Mint.
By the way, 2 balls of the Dark Grey were required but I only purchased one. A deep stash dive came up with a grey Drops Melody, which is the yarn used for the button band.
There’s some yarn left but the striping has an effect on the amount of each used. I have not calculated the yarn needed for the other sizes in the mohair version but sizes larger than a 2 will need additional balls. It might be a case of the fewer colours, the better. You’ll use more of what you’ve got without fannying around with individual stripes of all the different shades. Look at my leftovers below, not quite enough of some but plenty of others. No Mint shade left at all. Collectively, there is probably enough yarn left to make the next size up without running out but that is quite the game of yarn chicken!
Tip Number Three
Go up a hook size. Perhaps get a swatch or two on the go to decide which you prefer. I started with the recommended hook size but couldn’t see the stitches! My poor eyes! I like loose stitches with mohair, you can see them better and the drape is good.
Tip Number Four
Try it on as you go. The way the pattern is worked, you can hold it up against you to see if you like what’s going on. I did this and decided to start the decreases and sleeve splits a couple of rows early as it was looking a bit long. At this stage you could brave frogging back a row or two, just do it sloooowwly.
Post split, I followed the decrease pattern for the size 3. I paid zero attention to stitch counts as they would have been different. If I dropped or gained a stitch or two, so what?! It’s not going to be noticeable in amongst all the fluff.
If I remember correctly I also binned off the last couple of rows near the shoulders too. Knocking off an extra few of rows overall meant that the length was almost the same as the original.
Mohair Measurements compared to the original: Length: 54cm (about the same). Width: 59cm (5cm wider) Sleeves (including cuff): 49cm (6cm longer than the original but still not overlong as I made the cuff ribbing smaller, which helped balloon and gather them).
Speaking of sleeves, I held these up to my arm as I began nearing the top. They should be, at the very least, 40cm in length and then you can adjust the depth of the cuff to suit you. Remember that they are drop sleeves so they start below your shoulder rather than on it.
Tip Number Five
Break the rules! The tips above are an attempt to show the difference a few small tweaks made but ultimately, you can do what you want!
For example, I wanted a balloonier sleeve at the cuff so I added an extra 6? 8? stitches to start of my sleeves but followed the size 3 increases in the pattern (again, I ignored stitch counts). I stopped about six rows early so they would still fit the gap in the main body. They were also long enough at this point. You could afford to stop even earlier (I have long arms).
I haven’t even bothered counting the waist band rows, just made it four inches shorter than the main body. It is probably several rows less than the written pattern. Button holes are gone too, I didn’t want buttons. It’s fine. Whatever.
And I have absolutely no intention of blocking it! Ugh, just no.
Everything comes together
I did a couple more tinkerings and typed up notes on my Raverly Project page, which has the adjustments I made there in a shorter format. If I have left out something and you have a burning desire to ask a question about the cardigans, please do so. I will help where I can, if the pattern and/or the info here doesn’t cover it.