Quick Crochet Patterns for Christmas Gifts (And Stocking Fillers!)
Here are some quick and easy crochet patterns for Christmas gifts and stocking fillers. The great thing is, all of these are free crochet patterns, right here, on my blog!
We’re a week or so into November, so there is still plenty of time to work up quick crochet projects for the festive season. Perhaps you’re looking to crochet stocking fillers, or maybe make small gifts to crochet that will sit under the tree, waiting to be unwrapped on the big day. Whatever the reason, you’re sure to find some crochet inspiration here.
The following crochet patterns are all great ideas that you can get sorted well in time for Christmas. And they make great stash busters, too. Some also have links to tutorials on my crochet YouTube channel. Not all of them, but you’ll find more info in each pattern’s post.
A Granny Stripe Woolly Hat
I love this granny stripe hat pattern so much that I’ve crocheted four of them so far. The ribbing is a little time-consuming, but get into the swing of it, and you don’t notice. You could also swap it for post stitches if you were in a hurry.
Crochet Hair Scrunchies – Super Quick Crochet!
This crochet hair scrunchie pattern is one of the quickest crochet patterns on the list. Oh, so quick to make, and they are the best stocking fillers for the long-haired person in your life.
I make a little ball of knotted scraps to make the really colourful scrunchies. Mohair yarn also looks great too.
Barking Mad – A Houndstooth Stitch Scarf
Isn’t the houndstooth stitch such a crochet classic!? I love exploring ways to use this delightful stitch. So, my Barking Mad Scarf is a scarf crocheted on the diagonal. It uses two hanks of hand-dyed yarn held with mohair, but honestly, you can make this in your favourite DK or worsted weight yarn too.
Not that you need to know, but I wore my grey pair of cosy crochet socks to death. I wore them every winter for four years until they wore away. All good things must come to an end, so they were replaced with the cream Christmas socks! Although, to be honest, the only thing that makes them Christmassy is the added holly leaves and red trim. Subtle, but I like it.
I used an aran weight yarn that borders on chunky yarn. Even with a finer weight of yarn, socks can be crocheted in no time and then secretly stuffed into a Christmas stocking!
Easy Gingham Crochet Bows
As well as bringing festive cheer with crochet bows in deep reds and greens, they would look totally amazing, popped onto wrapped Christmas presents. Or, I can see them tied to tree branches as well. These easy-to-make gingham crochet bows would also look great as a hair accessory.
Now that I think about it, I really would love loads of crochet bows decorating my Christmas tree.
Chunky Mittens – Quick Crochet Christmas Gifts
I cannot express how quick these chunky crochet mittens are to make. It still takes me by surprise. Colour-changing yarn takes them up a ramp, too, although I do have the perfect Christmassy red pair as well.
These crochet mittens are worked from the cuff up with increases to create the thumb shaping. A few small adjustments can be made to alter the size a bit.
Crochet Totes – Crochet Patterns for Christmas Gifts
Crochet is the perfect craft for making shoppers, totes and market bags by hand. I truly love a crochet bag in any guise! Therefore, here are two crochet pattern ideas for Christmas gifts. If you have the time, line the bags with a simple lining to make them a little bit stronger.
Cotton yarn is the best for crochet bags as it has robust durability. Some yarn brands have beautiful colour ranges so you can make really bright, cheerful crochet bags.
Zigzag Tote bag pattern. I love a crochet chevron, and they look great in this cotton crochet bag.
Granny Stitch Crochet Earmuffs
Stop ears from getting cold on blustery days, pop on some snuggly crochet earmuffs! This crochet idea is definitely the quickest crochet pattern in the list. You do need to buy earmuffs to cover, though.
The granny earmuff covers are removable, so feel free to make several pairs so that the wearer can change them whenever the mood strikes!
Easy Crochet Wrist Warmers!
OMG, these are the easiest crochet wrist warmers ever. There’s the teeniest bit of shaping to make sure they fit at the forearms. But there’s not even a thumb hole, so you can just enjoy working around and around. Buy self-striping yarn and you don’t even need to think about changing colour (or sew in a crazy amount of ends).
The crocheted hat and cowl for the Apres Ski set start life the same way. A strip of simple corner-to-corner crochet work creates the chevron pattern. Then they’re joined into a cowl, or with a few additional stitches, you’ve got a warm crocheted hat.
Obviously, all of these patterns make great last-minute crochet gifts, but I really think this cosy set would be perfect as a Christmas gift for family and friends.
Christmas Granny Stitch Santa Hat
Super chunky yarn means crochet patterns work up in a ridiculously short amount of time. I’m not normally a fan, but this chunky Santa hat pattern is such a fun item for everyone to wear at Christmas!
Modelled by my son a few years ago, the same hat fits me. So it’s kind of a one-size-fits-all hat. The sad thing is, I don’t remember how old he is here. He’s 16 now…
Simple Crochet Shawls
I’ve saved shawls until the end, as they are probably the longest projects here. However, you may find that you have the time to work on one of these simple designs. They are all free crochet triangle shawl patterns on the blog.
Hinterland Shawl
Top left, the Hinterland shawlis an aran-weight shawl using some pretty basic stitches. However, those stitches really do sing when they’re placed together. It’s a large shawl, so perhaps a present for under the tree (I don’t think that it would fit in an Xmas stocking!).
Urban Stripe Shawl
Top middle, we have the Urban Stripe shawl, which is a basic pattern worked from end to end. Regular increases are made to the middle, then decreases are made to the end. It’s also a great beginner crochet project. A sport weight yarn works well for this design, but it’s pretty versatile, and you can switch to a different yarn weight.
Wayward Sisters Shawl
Top right is the Wayward Sisters shawl, a crochet granny shawl, but the stripes run horizontally. For ease, speed and avoiding sewing in ends, this granny stripe shawl would look amazing in one colour. Also, why not add a contrast colour for the edging to bring it to life?
Triangular Granny Shawl
Lastly, it’s another triangle granny shawl pattern. It’s a stupendous stashbuster that can be worked up lickety split. This version uses 4ply yarn scraps, but the original version (made years ago) uses DK wool.
In case you didn’t catch the pattern links as you read through, let’s list them here:
And there we have it, lots of different ideas to help you with crochet patterns for Christmas gifts! It’s a great collection with something for everyone. Do you think you’ll crochet some of these for loved ones? Let me know!
Crochet mittens are a winter favourite of mine, and that includes super warm, chunky crochet mittens! Ordinarily, I prefer a lighter weight of yarn for handmade accessories, but for quick-fix crochet, this pattern is great.
These crochet chunky mittens are worked from the cuff up to the tips of the fingers. After a post-stitch ribbing, simple increases are made to incorporate space for a thumb. Then, the rest of the mitten is shaped with a couple of decreases. Because bulky weight yarn is used, they work up super fast, so they make ideal crochet gifts too.
Chunky yarn and bulky yarn are the same weight of yarn. I believe that’s a size 5 (although I don’t use yarn sizes, so had to look it up!). It turns out that a chunky, or bulky yarn makes a great pair of mittens when using simple crochet stitches.
Of course, I tried a few different yarn brands and after a bit of research, my two favourite chunky yarns were West Yorkshire Spinners Re:Treat and Stylecraft Carnival Tweed. Also, it turns out, you can make one pair of chunky crochet mittens out of a single, 100-gram ball of yarn, which is just amazing!
5.5mm hook (US I/9) for the mitten main sections. Please remember to change to the 5.5mm crochet hook once you have completed the cuff. I totally forgot when I filmed the tutorial and, when it dawns on me (after I’ve crocheted most of the mitten!), I show you at the end what difference it makes.
Crochet Stitch Abbreviations – US Terms
beg = beginning, bpdc = back post double, ch = chain, ch-sp = chain space, dec = decrease, fpdc = front post double, hdc = half double crochet, st(s) = stitch(es), sp(s) = space(s), sl st = slip stitch, rep = repeat, yrh = yarn round hook.
Stitch Tension
Tension isn’t necessarily essential but it could affect the fit of your mittens. And it could also affect the amount used. Basically, if stitches are too loose, it doesn’t matter, but it will mean you need more than one ball of yarn.
If you’re a stickler for gauge (and I am very much in support of meaasuring gauge), 8cm measures 11 stitches & 8 rows. I chose 8cm as a measurement because I could measure across the widest part of the mitten to check it. If it was the standard 10, I would have had to make a gauge swatch and honestly, I wasn’t up for that for crochet mittens!
Finished Mitten Size
The wrist circumference is 19cm / 7.5in. The mitten length is 24cm / 9.5 in. This means that the mitten will fit the average woman’s hand very nicely indeed. Comparatively, I think I have a pretty average hand size.
Adjusting a Crochet Mitten to Fit
If you wanted to adjust these chunky crochet mittens to make them a different size, it’s definitely possible. There are a couple of different places you could add or take away stitches and rows. So, here are three ways to make potential adjustments.
To adjust the circumference, the stitch pattern is a multiple of two to accommodate the 1×1 post stitch ribbing. Therefore, take or add two stitches to the foundation round at the beginning. Surprisingly, just two stitches measure approximately 1.5cm! So bear that in mind.
Each round of hdc stitches is 1cm in height. There are two places where you could add extra rows to make longer mittens, or indeed, take the away for shorter mittens. You might want to remove the first round on hdc (UK htr) stitches after the cuff. Then remove a further round after the thumb split. Or add them if you want larger/longer chunky crochet mittens.
If you had exceptionally slender thumbs, you could, perhaps, lose a stitch either by dropping the final increase on round 12 and skipping 7 titches rather than 8 for the thumb split. But I wouldn’t advise on reducing them too drastically. An extra stitch can be incorporated by adding one more increase on round 12 if you wanted larger thumbs. If you do this, skip 9 stitches at the split, not 8.
You could also make cosy crochet wrist warmers by not working the thumb and finishing after 5 or six round after the split!
Notes For Chunky Crochet Mittens
As nearly always, the 1ch at the beginning of rounds is not counted as a st.
When changing colour, cut the old yarn and pull through the new yarn on the last yarn over of the previous round before slip stitching to join the round.
For Round 1, close up the open start by popping in a few firm stitches to sew closed, it’s OK to leave this until the end.
If in doubt check out the video tutorial. It has timestamps for the main sections.
I know this is obvious, but make two mittens to get your pair!
Special Stitches
Foundation double (fdc). This is an alternative to beginning with a foundation chain. It creates a neater edge that’s less likely to be tighter than the rest of your stitches.
Ch4 (counts as a st), yrh, insert hook in 4th ch from hook, yrh, draw through, yrh, draw through 1 loop (this creates the space you’ll work the next stitch into), yrh, draw through 2 loops, yrh, draw through 2 loops. Work the next fdc (foundation double) into the created space and loop behind it.
Decreases (dec). Yrh and insert hook into st, yrh and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), insert hook into next st, yrh and pull up a loop, yrh, pull through all 4 loops on hook.
Chunky Crochet Mittens Pattern
Main Hand Section
Rnd 1 (r/s): With 5mm hook, 26fdc, join with sl st, turn. [26 sts] Rnd 2 – 5: 1ch, *1fpdc, 1bpdc; rep from * around, join with sl st, do not turn (here & throughout). Rnds 6 – 7: Change to 5.5mm hook, 1ch, hdc around. Rnd 8: 1ch, starting in the first st [1hdc, 2hdc in next st] twice, hdc to last st, 2hdc in last st, join with sl st to first st, turn [29 sts] Rnd 9: As Rnd 6 Rnd 10: As Rnd 8. [32 sts] Rnd 11: As Rnd 6. Rnd 12: 1ch, 1hdc, 2hdc in next st, hdc around, join with sl st to first st, fasten off. [33 sts].Â
Separate for Hand and Thumb
With loop on the hook, insert hook into first st, skip 8 sts, insert hook into back of next st, sl st through both sts, turn work to continue working on hand.
Rnd 1: 1hdc in same stitch as sl st just made, hdc around, join with a sl st to the first st. [25 sts] Rnds 2 – 5: 1ch, hdc around, join with sl st. Rnd 6: 1ch, 1hdc, 1dec, hdc around, join with sl st. [24 sts] Rnd 7: As Rnd 2. Rnd 8: 1ch, 1hdc, 1dec, 8 hdc, 1dec, hdc to end, join with sl st, turn. [22sts] Rnd 9: As Rnd 2 Rnd 10: 1ch, 1hdc, 1dec, 7hdc, 1dec, hdc to end, join with sl st, turn. [20 sts] Rnd 11: As Rnd 10. [18 sts] Fasten off, leaving a tail.Â
Crocheting the Thumb
Rnd 1: Join yarn to any st, 1ch, hdc around, join with a sl st to first st, turn. [8 sts] Rnd 2: 1ch, hdc around, join with sl st to the first st, turn. Rnd 3: 1ch, 1hdc, 1dec, hdc around, join with sl st to the first st, turn. [7 sts] Rnds 4 & 5: As Rnd 2. Fasten off, leaving a tail.Â
With the right side out, use a darning needle to weave the tail through each front loop of the top of the mitten. Gently pull to close. Sew in the end to secure. Rep for thumb. Sew in all other ends.
And there you have it! Really easy crochet mittens using bulky yarn, my chunky crochet mittens! What do you think? How quickly do you think you’d be able to make a pair? I bet you could do it in a day without a hitch! Let me know!
If you enjoyed this free crochet pattern, please feel free to peruse the rest of my blog. I have some other fabulous free crochet patterns, or I have a page that gathers some excellent resources for crochet tips and tricks. You’ll find some brand new crochet ideas to add to your repertoire!
But for now, thank you for stopping by and I’ll be back soon. Cheers! x
Hinterland is an aran weight crochet shawl pattern that I designed back in 2018. It was a crochet design commissioned for Mollie Makes magazine, which is sadly no longer published (oh, how I loved Mollie Makes!).
In the magazine, the shawl was called Nordic Noir. I wasn’t keen on that title, so I changed the name when I published it independently. Hinterland, as a name, feels a little bit less moody.
If you would like the free version of Hinterland, my aran-weight crochet shawl, please keep reading. I’ll throw in a few “How to” pictures as well, as I think that’s helpful. A chart and table of stitch counts are also included in thePDF version pattern for purchase.
To make your aran weight crochet shawl, you will need (funnily enough) some aran weight yarn. I have crocheted this shawl three times, and each time I have successfully used a different yarn brand. It’s a very versatile shawl. Sadly, I don’t remember the other brands, but that’s Ok as I don’t have many pics of them anyway. Just use your fave aran or worsted weight yarn and you won’t go far wrong.
However, a perfectly fine yarn to use, and the yarn I used in the original Hinterland shawl, is King Cole Fashion Aran. Unfortunately, it looks like the Shetland shade isn’t available anymore, but don’t worry, the range is pretty wide. I’m sure you can choose lots of colourful alternatives to make a beautiful crochet shawl. Just writing up this blog post makes me want to crochet a new version in totally different colours!
This aran weight crochet shawl pattern is super easy, and therefore, I would say that it’s suitable for beginners.
The finished size is approximately. It’s a big, warm hug of a shawl at 220 x 88 cm / 86.5 x 34.5 inches.
Free Crochet Shawl Pattern Using Aran Weight Yarn
Hinterland’s Yarn and Hook Sizes.
As has been the case for my last few free crochet patterns, I’ve made the decision to write the freebie up in US terms. I didn’t always do this, but because many of my customers prefer US terms, it makes sense to move forward with this from now on. The paid-for version has both UK and US crochet terms.
King Cole Fashion Aran is 30% and 70% acrylic with 200m per 100g. You will need 300g (3x100g balls) of the main colour (YA) and 200g (2x100g balls) of the edging colour (YB).
For the main body of the shawl, you will need a 5.0 mm (UK 6, US H/8)Â crochet hook. For the edging, change to a 5.5mm (US I) crochet hook. There is a slight difference in tension for the different crochet stitches, so to balance that, the different hook sizes are used. There’s nothing to stop you from using a different size of hook to find one that best suits your crochet style.
Ready to crochet?
Aran Weight Crochet Shawl Pattern
With YA and 5mm hook, chain 4 Row 1: (1dc, ch2, 2dc) in 4th ch from hook, turn. [2 sts per side, not inc 2 centre chains] Row 2: Ch3, 1dc in same st, 2dc in next st, (1dc, 2ch, 1dc) in 2ch-sp, 2dc in next st, 2dc in top of 4th ch, turn. [5 sts per side & increasing by 3 sts each row] Row 3: Ch3, 1dc in same st, 2dc in next st, 1dc along to center, (1dc, 2ch, 1dc) in 2ch-sp, 1dc along to last 2 sts, 2dc in next st, 2dc in top of 3rd ch, turn.
Row 4 – 7: Rep Row 3 Row 8: Ch4 (counts as 1dc and ch1, here & throughout), [1dc in next st, ch1] twice, skip next st, *1dc, ch1, skip 1 st; rep from * to center, (1dc, 2ch,1dc) in 2ch-sp, ch1, **skip 1 st, 1dc, ch1; rep from** to last 2 sts, 1dc in next st, ch1, 1dc in top of 3rd ch, turn. [12dc & 11ch sts / 23sts] Row 9: Ch3, 1dc in same st, 2dc in 1st ch-sp, 1dc in next st, *1dc in ch-sp, 1dc in next st; rep from * to center, (1dc, 2ch, 1dc) in 2ch-sp, **1dc in next st, 1dc in ch-sp; rep from ** to last 2 sts, 2dc in last ch-sp, 2dc in top of 3rd ch, turn. [26 st per side]
Change to a 5.5 mm hook. Row 42: Ch4, 1sc in same st, ch1, skip 1 st, *1sc, ch1, skip 1 st; rep from * to center, (1sc, 2ch, 1sc) in 2ch-sp, ch1, skip 1st, rep from * to end, finishing with (1sc, 1ch, 1dc) in top of 3rd ch, change colour to YB on last st, turn. [1dc, 62sc, 62ch / 125 sts & increasing by 3 sts per side, each row]
Row 43: Ch4, 1sc in first sp, ch1, skip 1 st, *1sc in 1ch-sp, ch1, skip 1 st; rep from * to center, (1sc, 2ch, 1sc) in 2ch-sp, ch1, skip 1 st, rep from * to end finishing with (1sc, 1ch, 1dc) in last sp, turn. Row 44 – 62: Rep Row 43 Row 63: Ch1 (does not count as a st), (1sc, 2ch, 1sc) in first ch-sp, 1sl st in next ch-sp, *(1sc, 2ch, 1sc) in next ch-sp, sl st in next); rep from * to center, (2sc, 2ch, 2sc) in 2ch-sp, **1sl st in next ch-sp, (1sc, 2ch, 1sc) in next; rep from ** to end. Fasten off and sew in ends.
Blocking A Crochet Shawl
As luck would have it, I have a blog post all about blocking crochet projects. Feel free to check it out because it has lots of useful info. However, for this aran weight crochet shawl, I used a yarn that has a blend of wool and acrylic. Due to the acrylic content, I chose to steam block the Hinterland shawl. Be super careful when you do this because steam is HOT, and you do not want to melt all of your hard work.
To open up the stitches and give this shawl a beautiful drape, blocking is essential. Pin out onto foam blocking mats (or use a towel on the carpet). Take lots of care to steam block by holding an iron (with a steam function) an inch above the work. This is just so important, DO NOT let the iron touch the yarn; it will melt/burn acrylic yarn. Leave to dry.
However, I thoroughly recommend getting a steamer; honestly, it totally takes away the fear of melting.
Making Tassels for your Crochet Shawl
Make three tassels; you want one for each point of your triangle shawl. If the following instructions don’t make sense, I have a How To Make Tassels video tutorial.
Wrap Yarn B around the width of a sturdy A5 book approximately 20 times. With a 30 cm piece of yarn, tie the lengths together in the middle, then cut the other ends. Fold the strands in half with the tie at the top so that you have a mini bundle of yarn. 2cm down from the tied middle, tie another 30cm length of yarn around the lengths (you can wrap this around a couple of times) and let them hang with the other threads. Trim the tassel ends and tie them to the corners of the shawl for a nice finishing touch. Sew in the ends.Â
And voila! That’s how you make an aran weight crochet shawl. If you like this crochet pattern and would like to try some of my other designs, the best way to do that is to have a read through this blog! The first place to visit is my Free Crochet Pattern page. Let me know what you think because I would love to hear from you! 🙂
This gingham crochet bow pattern only uses small amounts of yarn scraps, so it’s perfect for a stash-busting project. Little bows, whether gingham, checked, plain, large or small, they’re a super speedy crochet project. In this blog post, you’ll find patterns for both the large and small sizes.
Both crochet bow patterns are also very easy to adapt. Why not add more rows for a deeper, plusher bow? No one says you have to go gingham, so make them all in one colour, or edge them in contrast colours. What about crocheting a giant bow in super chunky yarn? Play around with these crochet bows and have fun because it’s the sort of crochet pattern where you can’t stop at just one!
You could even crochet some tie sections in gingham (or plain colours), too! I didn’t do this as I’ve only just thought of it (8 years after first designing the crochet bows!), but I think that would look really cute. Instead, I hastily crocheted short chains of about 15-18 chains for the little bows, which can be easily stitched to the back to look like ties. See the next photo to have a visual of the chains. I pulled the knots tight so they don’t come undone, but you may want to sew the ends in to secure.
Below are the written patterns, but I’ve also put together a video tutorial for the gingham crochet bow pattern. I demonstrate how to make both the small and large bows in the gingham pattern, which uses a basic tapestry crochet technique.
It’s a pattern I designed for Inside Crochet magazine back in 2017, but I have a feeling crochet bows are on their way back into fashion, so it’s the perfect time to revisit this easy pattern.
The approximate sizes are: Large bow5 x 12cm /1¼ x 2¼ inches. Small bow 3 x 6cm / 2x 4¾ inches. But don’t let that stop you from experimenting and making them in different yarn weights to come up with different-sized crochet bows. I used a super chunky yarn and a 6 or 7 mm hook ( I can’t remember now) to make a giant bow. I have no idea what to do with it, but it was fun to make! [Edit:: just in the last few minutes, one of the kids has taken ownership of it!]
Materials for Crochet Bow Pattern
I use DK cotton in the main pattern because it’s sturdy and creates a nice, firm bow. You don’t need very much yarn at all. Below, I’ve said 20 grams, which is generous. So you probably won’t need that much. We’re talking fewer than 50 metres of each colour. This should make one large and two small crochet bows
20 grams Drops Muskat DK (100% cotton, 50g/100m/109yds), in Denim (Yarn A), 15 grams each of Rico Cotton Essentials DK (100% cotton, 50g/130m/142yds) in Navy (Yarn B) & Natural (Yarn C).Â
3mm hook.
Needle for sewing in ends.
Headband and 2x 5cm hair clips – Suggested because I added the crochet bows to hair accessories.
Hot glue gun (or other strong glue) – optional.
You’ll be using US single crochet stitches for this crochet bow pattern. That’s UK double crochets. There’s also the option of finishing off with a slip stitch edging to make them a little bit tidier. That, and chaining, are all the techniques you need to know.
Crochet Bow Pattern Notes
Colour changes: Yarn is changed during the third stitch of the current colour. Ie, insert hook in stitch, yarn over and pull through stitch, drop current yarn and finish stitch by yarning over and pulling through the new yarn to complete.Â
The yarn not in use is crocheted over as you go, ready to pick up when you need it.
With Yarn A chain 64. Row 1: 1sc in second ch from hook, 1sc in next 2 sts, *change colour to Yarn B, 1sc in next 3 sts, change colour to Yarn A, 1sc in next 3 sts; rep from * to the end, turn. – 63 sts. 2: 1ch, 1sc in next 3 sts, *change colour to Yarn B, 1sc in next 3 sts, change colour to Yarn A, 1sc in next 3 sts; rep from * to the end, change colour to Yarn C on the last st, turn. 3: 1ch, 1sc in next 3 sts, *change colour to Yarn A, 1sc in next 3 sts, change colour to Yarn C, 1sc in next 3 sts; rep from * to the end, turn. 4: 1ch, 1sc in next 3 sts, *change colour to Yarn A, 1sc in next 3 sts, change colour to Yarn C, 1sc in next 3 sts; rep from * to the end, change colour to Yarn A on the last st, turn. 5: 1ch, 1sc in next 3 sts, *change colour to Yarn B, 1sc in next 3 sts, change colour to Yarn A, 1sc in next 3 sts; rep from * to the end, turn. 6: As Row 2. 7: As Row 3. 8: As Row 4. 9: As Row 5. 10: As Row 2. 11: 1ch, sc to end. Cut yarn, leaving an end for joining. Sew in the other ends and fold the piece in half (neatest side inside) end to end. Join ends together using sc stitches or sewing. Fasten off and sew in the last end. Turn right side out.
Large Gingham Bow Middle Band
With Yarn A chain 19. Row 1: 1sc in second ch from hook, 1sc in next 2 sts, *change colour to Yarn B, 1sc in next 3 sts, change colour to Yarn A, 1sc in next 3 sts; rep from * twice, change colour to Yarn B, 1sc in next 3 sts, turn. – 18 sts. 2: 1ch, 1sc in next 3 sts, *change colour to Yarn A, 1sc in next 3 sts, change colour to Yarn B, 1sc in next 3 sts; rep from * twice, change colour to Yarn A, 1sc in next 3 sts, change colour to Yarn C on the last st, turn. 3: 1ch,1sc in next 3 st, *change colour to Yarn A, 1sc in next 3 st, change colour to Yarn C, 1sc in next 3 st; rep from * twice, change colour to Yarn A, 1sc in next 3 st, turn. 4: 1ch, 1sc in next 3 sts, *change colour to Yarn C, 1sc in next 3 sts, change colour to Yarn A, 1sc in next 3 sts; rep from * twice, change colour to Yarn C, 1sc in next 3 sts, change colour to Yarn A on the last st, turn. 5: 1ch, 1sc in next 3 sts, *change colour to Yarn B, 1sc in next 3 sts, change colour to Yarn A, 1sc in next 3 sts; rep from * twice, change colour to Yarn B, 1sc in next 3 sts, turn. 6: Rep Row 2, ending without the last colour change. Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing. Sew in all the other ends.
Large Plain Crochet Bow
Chain 59. Row 1: 1sc in second ch from hook, sc to end, turn. – 58 sts. 2: 1ch, sc to end, turn. Rows 3 – 14: As Row 2. 15: Join contrast yarn, slip stitch along to end. Fasten off and sew in the ends. Rep slip stitch edging on the right side of Row 1.
Make a middle band in one colour (as instructed above for stitch count and rows). Add contrast slip-stitch edging to the first and last rows of the middle band.Â
Assembly For Large Bows
With the joining seam in the centre of the back, pinch the middle of the main piece to make a bow shape. Hold against the headband (if using) and wrap the middle band around all. Sew the ends of the middle band together to secure it all in place. You can also use glue to secure the bow to the hairband or any other surface you wish to attach it to.
Small Gingham Bow
With Yarn A chain 16. Repeat rows 1-6 of main piece. – 15 sts. Fasten off and sew in ends.
Assembly For Small Bow
Using 80cm of Yarn B, tightly tie a knot around the centre of the bow, leaving a 10 cm tail. Wrap the yarn tightly 12-14 times around the centre. Tie a knot at the back of the bow and sew in ends, then with a hot glue gun (or equivalent), stick the bow to the hair clip. Alternatively, sew the bow to the clip. Repeat with the other small bow.
And that’s it! Pretty simple, hey? If you liked this crochet bow pattern, then please feel free to check out my free crochet pattern page to find more fun projects. Cheers! x
With the rise in popularity of using leftover scrap yarn, I thought it was the perfect time to revisit an old classic: the granny triangle shawl! You can’t go wrong with granny stripes worked into a crochet shawl pattern, so gather all your yarn leftovers; it’s time to work up a fabulous stash buster.
I designed my first crochet granny triangle shawl way back in 2016. I was relatively new to the world of crochet blogging and desperately wanted to put together a step-by-step photo tutorial. For 2025, I have made a few tweaks to make this granny triangle shawl even easier. Although, honestly, the old version isn’t hard at all.
I have tidied the edging of this new (very simple) crochet shawl, and that is the only change. Well, the yarns and colours here are a proper stash-busting scenario, whereas my original version had planned colour placement.
You could crochet your granny shawl in 4 ply, DK, or worsted, to name three different yarn weights. You could use the same colour of yarn throughout, or even self-striping yarn if you want to avoid sewing in all the ends.
This particular shawl measures 68.5 x 145 cm (27 X 57 inches) and uses approximately 225 grams of 4 ply/fingering/sock weight yarn. That’s roughly 1,012 yards/ just under 1,000 meters. For row 55, it’s about 10grams (40 – 45 metres), therefore, this would also be a great crochet pattern for using mini skeins.
Of course, you can make your shawl bigger or smaller. If you want a variation of the pattern, such as using a different yarn weight, the quantities and measurements will probably change. I really don’t think it matters too much for this crochet pattern. A granny triangle shawl can be made in whatever weight of yarn you like, with whatever hook size you like.
As I used 4 ply, I chose a 3.5mm crochet hook, which creates a pretty standard tension, so that there is a nice drape to the shawl.
Whether you’re using yarn stash in your favourite weight of yarn, or going to use all one colour from a special collection, it will likely work for this easy crochet project. But a granny triangle shawl does make the perfect stash busting crochet project, so let’s talk about that a bit more…
The Ultimate Yarn Stashbuster!!
Projects where you can just grab all your yarn leftovers are the best! We’re all a bit skint at the moment, but it doesn’t mean we have to go without. Making sure yarn scraps are used and loved in a new crochet project is perfect. Creating something special from not very much at all? We can achieve that in crochet!
There’s nothing to stop you changing colour halfway through a row, either. Use up every last bit!
You don’t have to use 4ply yarn, you can use whatever you have in your yarn stash. In fact, my original granny triangle shawl is DK (double knitting) weight yarn.
If changing to a different yarn weight, all you need to do is change the hook size you use to create the drape and tension that you like best. You could even mix up your yarn weights for something, perhaps a bit more bonkers, but at least it’ll be truly unique.
The beauty of stashbusting yarn leftovers is that you can create crazy colour palettes in yarn you wouldn’t ordinarily plan. It can seem scary to throw all the colours in one project, but if you’re willing to go with the flow, you could end up with your new favourite crochet accessory!
Granny Triangle Shawl Pattern
If you’d prefer to have an ad-free version of this pattern (US & UK terms available), it is available in my Ravelry store to purchase. Or, if Rav isn’t your thing, find the pattern in my Etsy shop.
The following pattern is written in US terms. (Having explored the type of instructions I share on the blog, I’m now leaning towards US instructions as they seem to be preferred by most readers. I’m happy to share both UK & US instructions, which I have done in the past, but I’d rather not confuse things. Let me know your thoughts! Thanks!!).
Materials to Crochet a Granny Triangle Shawl
As discussed in more detail above, you need approximately 225 grams of 4ply yarn and 3.5mm crochet hook. Feel free to use any yarn you like, mix it up, go wild!
Abbreviations (US Crochet terms)
beg = beginning, BLO = back loop only, ch = chain, ch-sp = chain space, clu = cluster (3dc in same sp), dc = double crochet, PM = place marker, R/S = right side, sc = single crochet, st(s) = stitch(es), sp(s) = space(s), sl st = slip stitch, rep = repeat, yrh = yarn round hook.
Row 1: Ch4 (counts as 1dc & 1ch), working into ring, 3dc, ch2, 3dc, ch1, 1dc, turn. – [1 st & 1 clu per side] Row 2: Ch4, 3dc in first ch-sp, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in next 2ch-sp, (3dc, ch1, 1dc) in last ch-sp, ch col, turn. – 1 st & 2 clu per side] Row 3: Ch4, 3dc in first ch-sp, 3dc in next sp between clu, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in 2ch-sp, 3dc in next sp, (3dc, ch1, 1dc) in last ch-sp, ch col, turn. – 1 st & 3 clu per side, increasing by 1 clu each row] Rows 4 – 55: Ch4, 3dc in first ch-sp, *3dc in next sp; rep from * to centre 2ch-sp, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in next 2ch-sp, *3dc in next sp; rep from * to last ch-sp, (3dc, ch1, 1dc) in last ch-sp, ch col, turn. – 1 st & 55 clu per side]
Easy Crochet Scallop Edging
To achieve the edging in the granny triangle shawl pattern, make sure you have an odd number of granny stripe rows. This way, your scallops will hit their mark in all the right places. Note: You can choose which is the right side to work on at this point
Row 1 (R/S): Ch1, *1dc in first ch-sp, 7dc in next ch-sp; rep from * to centre 2ch-sp, 9dc in centre 2ch-sp, *1dc in next ch-sp, 7dc in next ch-sp: rep from to last ch-sp, 1dc in last ch-sp, fasten off and do not turn. – [27 scallops per side + 1 in center] Row 2 (R/S): Working in the BLO, with right side facing you, join new yarn, ch1, *1sc in each dc st, sl st in dc; rep from * to last st, 1sc, fasten off and cut yarn. Sew in ends. You probably shouldn’t wait until the very end to sew in all ends. There are a lot!!! Sew in a couple every few rows to save yourself from the madness.
If you go wrong, it’s not the end of the world. My shawl has mistakes!! Watch my crochet podcast to see where I messed up!
And finally, this is a very simple granny triangle shawl, and one way to make it truly shine is to block it! It’s one extra step and so worth investing the time. Check out my blog all about blocking your crochet.
I Made a Crochet Granny Square Sweater & So Can You!
I’m going to write a little intro about my new crochet granny square sweater, but honestly, I’m too excited about it to make much sense! However, I will do my best to break everything down and provide as much information as possible, so that you can make your own colourful crochet sweater too.
Firstly, I must remember to give credit for the source of crafty inspiration. This crochet jumper, put together, block by block with happy little granny squares, has been inspired by theAriana Cardigan by Amy Christoffers. It’s a very popular pattern that combines knit & crochet stitches. Funnily enough, I was so intrigued by hybrid patterns for knitting and crochet that I’ve written a blog post about my favourite knitchet/croknit patterns.
Other makers have made jumper versions of the cardi, and they all looked so lovely (on the Rav project page), I was super enthused to make one of my own, in my own colours and actually, with my own granny square pattern.
If you want to make the Ariana cardigan, luckily for you, a pattern already exists and it’s free on Ravelry. What you’ll read here is more of a recipe for a jumper inspired by the original. Probably the only thing they have in common is that the granny squares are on the diagonal and the ribbing is knitted.
Whilst I downloaded the original Ariana cardigan and gave it a quick once over, I didn’t read or follow it for this sweater. Therefore, I don’t feel like it’s wrong to share what I did in recipe format.
The other reason for it being a recipe rather than a pattern for a crochet granny square sweater is that garments using granny squares are a nightmare to grade across different sizes. Blocks of squares aren’t fun to format into wearables, and like me, perhaps you can get a pretty good idea of how to make a granny jumper without a pattern.
Below, I share the charts I drew up for two sizes, both of which can be tweaked to make bespoke, unique crochet garments. I have also shared a few tips on ways to make adjustments to your crochet granny square sweater.
Step 1: Scroll down to charts and decide on large (64cm / 24inches wide) or small (48 cm / 19inches wide). Or make your own based on your measurements and the size of granny square you plan to use.
Step 2: For the large, dig out 700 grams /2000m /2120yds of DK stash in as many colours as you like, I recommend a minimum or 7 or so. The more colours you use, the more higgeldy piggeldy.
Step 3: With a 4mm hook (US G/6), crochet 54 squares and 15 triangles, working the final round with Join As You Go (JAYG) to join the sweater. Be careful at the sides and sleeves – use stitch markers to hold in place.
Step 4: With 4mm needles or hook, knit or crochet the ribbing.
Step 5: Sew in thousands of ends. I saved this until last in case I had to rip back any squares – eg to shorten verrry long sleeves. Actually, you can sew in the first 4 rounds of every single square and triangle before this stage….
What You Need to Make a Crochet Granny Square Sweater
I used double knit (DK) yarn for this patchwork crochet sweater, a 4mm hook and 4mm knitting needles. Tension is not a major issue, as this is a design that’s ideal for making it up as you go along.
Just because I used DK doesn’t mean that you have to. Technically, you can make this sweater in any yarn weight. It’s worth working up a few swatch squares in your preferred yarns to see if they work. You can also get a rough idea of how much yarn you’ll need by making a swatch or two. Don’t forget to add in enough for ribbing, too.
If you veer off from DK, you will likely need to think about the number of rounds per granny square. I’ll chat about my measurements in a sec, and that should inform you on sizing. If you’re thinking of working granny squares that are drastically different in size or yarn weight, you’ll end up with a crochet granny square sweater with different measurements. However, if you’re happy to draft your own charts, I fully support your experimentation by cheering from the side.
The Best Yarn for a Crochet Sweater
I think DK is perfect for a crochet sweater. If you go to heavier yarn weights, garments can start looking a bit clunky and heavy. Everyone is different, and we all have our own personal preferences, so at the end of the day, you can use your favourite weight of yarn. However, as garments go, DK is an awesome yarn weight. I love a lighter 4ply too, but for a crochet granny square sweater, 4ply yarn is more work as the squares would need to have more rounds to get them to the same size, and I kinda enjoyed this as the quick project that it was. Double-knit yarn is a good balance.
If you’re curious about different yarn weights and using something different, check out my blog post on Yarn Substitution.
The majority of my yarn stash here is wool I’d had for a number of years, which deserved to be part of a special crochet project. About five years ago, I treated myself to colourful skeins of merino from Folkestone Harbour Yarns. Then, to complement this collection, I matched it with rich brown shades from Loom Wool. It’s all gorgeous! I love that the browns are all slightly different; it adds a unique quality to my crochet sweater.
How Much Yarn Will You Need?
Make a granny square from a pattern that you’ll be using in your jumper (the one below, or other fave). If you’re being super diligent, wash and block it too. I’m not going to make you do this, but learning how to block crochet is useful for your garment-making endeavours. It determines final measurements (as well as other things), so it will help calculate sweater stats.
Weigh your square, and it will give you a fairly good idea of how much yarn you’ll need for the whole project. Multiply the weight of that one square by the final number of squares (don’t forget the triangles too). This is the total amount of yarn you’ll need.
Not gonna pretend I actually did this though. I just grabbed the lovely yarn stash I wanted to use up (and I am always going to have enough stash!). I think I used 10 colours plus the border colour. I made sure to have 4x 100 gram skeins of my joining colour, but there is plenty left.
The total weight of my finished jumper is just under 700 grams. I cannot recall the specific number, but I did weigh it especially for the YouTube video on making my crochet granny square jumper, so feel free to watch. I begrudgingly calculated yardage and meterage, too! Oof, from memory? Around 2000 metres/ 2120 yards.
The square that you make will also be useful to measure, so you can calculate the size of your sweater too (more on this below).
Cute Granny Square Pattern
There is only a slight change to the traditional granny square with this pattern, but it’s one I think makes a decent impact. The first round is eight dainty little petals rather than the standard four clusters. The following rounds are then just super simple granny clusters.
Find the granny square pattern here. The video tutorial that’s linked in that pattern is also useful to demonstrate the Join As You Go (JAYG) technique.
FYI, I have yet to determine how five rounds of this pattern compare to five rounds of a traditional granny square pattern. Just in case you assumed it was the same measurement. It might not be. *Shrugs*. Whatever the weather, these squares measure 16cm from corner point to corner point. As we’re working on the diagonal, this is the measurement you need.
The Granny Triangle Pattern
Because this crochet granny square sweater is worked with the squares on the diagonal, triangles are also required to straighten the bottom edges of the main body and sleeves. Find the free granny triangle pattern here.
For both the granny square and granny triangles, I worked four rounds of each, knowing I was going to work a 5th round as I crocheted JAYG. Oh, and it’s best to sew in your ends after Round 4 so you’re not left with a hideous job of sewing in yarn tails at the end. Like I was….
Granny Sweater Measurements
Having decided on a granny square pattern with five rounds in DK yarn, there were two choices: go for fitted or oversized.
I was slightly concerned that the smaller option would be too tight across my chest. Knowing the measurements of the squares, I think the smaller size would just about fit my body (99cm circ), but with very little “positive ease” – i.e. extra room. I dithered and doubted enough to opt for the oversized version. Charts for the oversized version I made and the smaller, fitted size that I’d like to make are both below.
The following measurements are taken after I washed and blocked my jumper.
Sweater Measurement Details
My oversized jumper is 4 diagonal squares wide. Remember that 16 = one square’s point to point measurement in cm. 4 x 16 is 64cm (approx 25 inches). Therefore, this is the width of my crochet granny square sweater.
The sweater length, including the waistband, should come in at 53/54cm after blocking. What with the weight of the yarn and the wear it’s had, the final length of my sweater is more like 57cm. I’m happy with that!
The final sleeve length (with cuff) is 44cm (approx 17.5 inches). These are shorter than I would ordinarily make. The drop shoulder construction, paired with the oversized width, means the sleeves start further down my arm. Originally, I hadn’t factored this into my plans as well as I’d thought. So the sleeves I initially made were clownishly long. Bum. Long story short, I ripped out a few squares at the sleeves. I had a terrible time doing this, but I made the effort to change them because I wanted to be satisfied (and happy) with the result. Sometimes it’s worth pushing through the difficult times!
The upper arm depth is 16cm; the measurement of one square on the diagonal. There’s a bit of stretch here, too. That’s OK.
It’s useful to note that should you wish to adjust the sleeve length or main body length by only a fraction, you can add or subtract ribbing rows. I think I went for 9 rounds of ribbing, but redid cuffs and only did 8 rounds the second time around.
Granny Sweater Chart – Square Layout
If I have done my counting correctly, for the size I made, I needed 54 granny squares and 15 triangles. On the chart above, I have shaded out sections along the top of the sleeves and sides for the “front”. These squares are already accounted for on the back section (they’re just folded round – watch the video at timestamp 34:00 to see what I mean).
The chart above was useful to work out the sweater schematic, but what I found even more useful was to lay it out how I actually intended to join the granny squares.
Take a look at the next image. When joining, I left the squares A to H to the end. These needed to be joined in two different places to bring everything together, going from a flat piece of crochet fabric into a 3-dimensional structure. For example, square B is joined (JAYG method) to the sleeve at both the green and blue sections.
Using plenty of stitch markers at this point is enormously helpful as well. I think I would have struggled without temporarily pre-joining squares before crocheting them together. Using stitch markers to pin everything together first allows you to see that you’re on the right track, showing that you haven’t accidentally joined a side of B to the main body instead of the sleeve. You can see how easy it might be to accidentally incorporate the side of E (pink line) into the B join, as it sits right next door!
I also chat about this in the granny sweater video from 31:04, Sometimes it is easier to see a visual of it.
The Smaller Granny Square Sweater Size
Yes, I do want to make a second crochet granny square sweater, and I would like a fitted version. The initial chart for this is drawn up below. I have reduced it by one block in the body and lengthened the sleeves. I have a reasonably good feeling that this will work. If I have to reduce the sleeve length back down, I will. I won’t mind too much! If you have short arms, stick to the shorter sleeve.
However, look at the neck and you’ll see it’s different. It’s deeper at the front, and I left a triangular space at the back of the neck. Ultimately, if I put that triangle back in, the neck space would be the same as the large size, but with more of the action at the front. This means a deeper V-neck and no shaping at the back neck. There’s room for playing around with this, I think.
The neck is surprisingly gapey before adding the ribbing; it would be suitable for several sizes. Play around with the number of ribbing rounds to make adjustments.
Potentially, a triangle could be added at the front to square off the neck into a kind of round neck. I mention this in the video, but watching it back, it just looks like I’m wearing the sweater back to front!
And where it says 49cm, ugh, it’s supposed to be 48. Oops.
Knitted Ribbing on a Crochet Sweater!!
I know!!? It’s crazy, I’m such a huge crochet fan, but I knew I was going to grab this opportunity to improve my knitting skills. From just the ribbing sections, I have learned loads! Not only did I remind myself how to pick up stitches, I also worked Magic Loop for the first time, and tried SSK for the V neck shaping.
For the 2×2 knitted ribbing, I use continental style knitting as it’s easier to switch between knit and purl stitches. It’s got to the point where I have forgotten how to purl in throwing style. Links for the tutorials I used are above, in the resources section.
Don’t get me wrong, I have a long way to go in my knitting journey. If you look closely, you’ll no doubt see that I’ve done a terrible job; regardless, I am thrilled!
Alternatively, there are absolutely loads of crochet ribbing stitches you can use too. You know I love crochet ribbing!!
Adjustments & Issues re “Winging It”
The sleeves! They were way too long for me in the beginning, and I had to make adjustments. If you’re unsure, think about the body width of the jumper. If you are aiming for oversized, take this into account as it will have an effect on sleeve length. Think about the total wrist-to-wrist measurement (up one arm, across the back, down the other arm). That’s the measurement you want to aim for. Not always easy to do.
If your upper arm circumference is larger than 30-32cm, you may wish to consider adding another row of squares at the sleeve to make them wider. This comes with added complications as the construction at the underarm will change. It’s not something I’ve looked at before. In my head, I’m thinking of an additional square to create shaping under the armpit?? Sorry, I don’t have a clear guide for that.
If this is too much of a headache or, indeed, creates deeper sleeves than you would like, this is the moment where you’ll want to question the measurement of a single square. The alternative is to add another round to all squares and triangles. This will deepen the arm depth but also increase the width and length of your final crochet granny square sweater. What would you go for?
Final Thoughts on Making a Crochet Granny Square Sweater
Oh, I have so many photos I could share, but we’d be here forever. It’s all the unpretty step-by-step progress shots that I’m not sure would be that useful. Things like before and after sleeve changes, such as the ones below. They’re reminders of learning and progress, which is good, I guess?
Oh go on then, let’s have a gallery of my new granny jumper!
What do you think? Has it raised more questions, or do you think this recipe will help you make your own crochet granny square sweater?
If you do have questions, please let me know in the comments section and I’l try to edit the post as and when I can.
I always start off thinking crocheting a garment in the “winging it” style will be fun and simple. Making the thing often is! In real terms, however, the writing up of the “recipe?” Goodness me, there are quite a few elements required, and there’ll always be something I’ve missed.
Let’s begin by explaining, briefly, what crochet pattern testing is and then going over it in a bit more detail. Also, I think it would be interesting to explore the subject from both the designer’s and tester’s perspectives, so that’s what I’m going to do! Hopefully, I have insight into both because I have tested a fair few crochet patterns over the years, and I am also a crochet designer.
In a nutshell, crochet pattern testing is checking to see if an unpublished crochet pattern works. A group of testers will follow a draft pattern while they each make the finished item. As they follow along, they make sure the pattern makes sense and produces a finished crochet item as the designer intended. They then provide feedback to the designer about the experience and provide polite, constructive criticism.
Let’s be clear from the start, pattern testing is not the same as technical editing! There should be no obligation to fine-tooth comb anything.
Crochet Pattern Testing Vs Tech Editing
On social media platforms, I often find myself reading discussions about crochet pattern testing. There are many honest opinions that are shared, and some folks seem to think that it should involve grammar checks, number checking (maths, stitch counts), pattern formatting, and more. Actually, this should have already been looked at by a technical editor before any tester gets their hands on an unpublished pattern draft.
Tech editing is a paid service carried out by an experienced, trained editor who is a whizz at number crunching and has a keen eye for detail. The advice they can offer is invaluable, and if you are a crochet designer, you should be using their services for nearly all of your patterns.
With that attention to detail, most errors and formatting styles will have been ironed out. It is not for the pattern tester to do any of this, but the odd thing escapes those eagle eyes, and an edit doesn’t show what a final product will look like when made by different hands.
Sadly, most independent designers don’t have a budget to pay for testing and they rely on the kindness of volunteer crocheters who are happy and willing to help.
Why Do We Need Crochet Pattern Testing?
Making sure crochet patterns are clear, succinct and do what they say they do is super important. We’re all human, and even a super amazing designer with awesome tech editing skills can miss a typo or two. Crochet pattern testing helps with that.
To test is to help out fellow crafters in the yarny community. Tests often have a community focus where there are chat groups for testers to convene, ask questions and share their making experiences. I’ve made many friends by taking part in these group chats. It’s also a great way to gain experience and improve crochet skills.
A good crochet pattern test should be mutually beneficial. A designer gets the chance to find out if their new pattern can be understood by real makers. A tester gets an exclusive glance at the design process. Whether they want to become designers themselves or just have the desire to support the work of a small creative business, it should be a positive experience.
The Dark Side of Crochet Pattern Testing
It would be remiss of me to ignore the negative side of pattern testing for crochet. This is kind of what made me want to write about it in the first place. Various online threads of debate discuss both the good and the bad. Obviously, I want to focus on the good bits, but there is a dark side to this topic too.
Both, testers and designers can be left with a bitter taste from a crappy pattern testing experience. I’ve learned that pattern testers can be greatly exploited and pushed beyond reasonable expectations. For example, there are demands for sharing multiple photos, Reels and Stories on social media to “market” a pattern on behalf of a designer. Whilst yes, it is a boon if this happens, a designer should never push this as an essential because it isn’t why patterns are tested.
I know from my own ventures into running testing groups that testers will join to take a pattern and disappear from the group. For me, the most stressful element about a new pattern is the testing phase. I worry constantly about whether everyone is OK. I had one experience last year that I never wish to repeat, where one by one, testers disappeared until it felt like I was talking to no one. It’s a long story that I can’t tell without name dropping a brand that’s much larger than my one-woman band… However, from that time, I also learned that some folks in the world have hearts of gold.
I’ll go over some of these thoughts in more detail throughout the post as well.
Communication is Key!
Unfortunately, as I’ve mentioned, pattern testing can lead to animosity on both sides; the best way to avoid this is to know exactly what to expect.
If in doubt, have the confidence to ask questions. It’s super important that both parties engage regularly and check-in.
As a tester, if you’re struggling, keep in touch to let the designer know there’ll be delays, or if you have to withdraw from the test don’t be afraid to say so. A decent, experienced designer will have factored this into the test and not be reliant on one person. But it is super helpful to let the designer know you can’t complete it, as crochet pattern testing can be an anxious time. It’s not an excuse for rudeness from anyone!
Designers need to be well prepared to update testers regularly. Answer questions promptly and don’t get offended if someone points out that things aren’t clear. This is the point of testing! Listen to what your testers are telling you. If they’re querying what could be an error, check it, don’t dismiss it.
Testing peeps, don’t make assumptions about a pattern, please don’t guess; this is the perfect opportunity to get the designer’s attention. Ask the questions; get clarification.
How Do You Become a Pattern Tester?
There are a few different ways to become a crochet pattern tester. I haven’t tried them all. Each way of finding a testing group will be different. You will find that each designer has a preferred approach.
Instagram – Designers will put out a call for testers by way of a post on the IG grid or on Stories. This is normally how I do it. I create a simple form/questionnaire on Google Drive. Interested crocheters can click on a link to accurately complete the form. This way, I can export all the data into a snazzy spreadsheet; it’s a neat way to keep track of everyone so no one gets missed.
Ravelry Testing Pool – I used this a few years ago with mixed results. There are rules in place, and people are vocal if you don’t follow those rules. That’s OK, there are other similar forums and being respectful is paramount.
Yarn Pond – This is a one-stop shop for pattern testing and testers. Yarnpond has been around a long time, too. I’ve not gone down this path. The website has loads of info, should you be intrigued.
Designers’ List – Many designers (I’m not one of them) keep a list of pattern testers who are keen to be contacted whenever that designer has a new pattern on the horizon. I like this idea very much. However, I feel uncomfortable directly asking individuals if they can take the time to test.
Facebook Groups – Crochet is BIG on Facebook, you are definitely spoilt for choice with all the different pages and posts. Search for testing groups to see if there is one that suits your style.
Requirements for Being a Crochet Tester
Again, for testing crochet patterns, requirements will vary depending on what the designer is looking for with their crochet pattern testers. Let’s break it down.
Crochet Skills Level/Experience
If you have never been a crochet pattern tester before, don’t let your perceived skill level put you off. It is in the designer’s best interest to choose a group of testers who represent all abilities because it’s a truer reflection of those who will want to buy the pattern.
Having said that, perhaps it’s not a good idea to sign up for an advanced and mega complicated sweater test if you have never made a garment before… Be realistic but don’t be put off either. Gen up with these Crochet Tips & Tricks.
Do You Have Time for Crochet Pattern Testing?
Don’t overcommit or overstretch yourself; it’s stressful, and testing should be fun. No one wants you to get anxiety from crochet pattern testing. If you have other commitments, think about the deadline. Is it achievable for you?
Confidence & Willingness to Partake
There are usually some social elements to pattern testing. Not always, but increasingly, tests take place in group chats so that testers can write/talk to one another, share ideas and ask questions about any issues. The designer should be present as much as possible to help answer any queries.
Likewise, there’s an element of independent crocheting as well. If you feel strongly that you can complete a test without needing your hand held throughout, then fabulous.
A Keen Eye & Attention to Detail
Whilst you should not be expected to tech edit during a pattern test, attention to detail is still an essential skill. The odd typo could still be lingering, or perhaps the designer has made a tweak since the tech edit that wasn’t updated correctly. These things happen, and pointing out errors is hugely appreciated. You’re not just helping the designer but all the makers that come after you.
Making Pattern Changes?
If there is something in the pattern you’re not keen on? Ask the designer if it’s OK to change it a little bit. It won’t always be possible, as the designer probably wants to know how the pattern will work up as written. But there will be occasions when it’s not such a big deal. Don’t be afraid to ask.
Providing Constructive Feedback
Being brief with your words at the feedback stage kind of defeats the point of testing. I mean, you don’t have to provide a huge tome of opinions; rather, a few overall thoughts about the pattern, plus measurements and yarn info, would be the bare minimum. If it’s a garment, the designer ideally needs a photo or two of it modelled so they can see if it is what they envisage.
You might be asked about your likes and dislikes about the pattern too. And any changes you made?
Good photography skills
Good photos aren’t just because a designer wants you to push your new FO on social media for pattern sales. Well, it shouldn’t be. Sure, it can be a perk, but good photos are crucial for two reasons.
One, they help other makers see what a garment looks like on all different bodies and show a maker various colour options.
Two, they help the designer see if the pattern looks right across all sizes. It is frustrating knowing someone has tested a pattern, said it’s fine, but the designer doesn’t actually know because they haven’t seen it. As a designer, I have asked for photos and sent reminders, but it’s a tricky one; I’m in no position to make demands for photos to be shared when it’s an unpaid gig.
Crochet designers definitely appreciate good photos shared on Ravelry, too.
Crochet Pattern Testing Tips for the Designer
By the time it’s at the testing stage, a lot of work has gone into a crochet pattern, sometimes months and months. Unless you can pay testers, that doesn’t really matter to anyone else, I’m afraid. You’re relying on the generosity and grace of your community. So the first tip is don’t take advantage, you do not have the upper hand. Even if you’re gifting free patterns as a form of payment, it doesn’t equate to hours of making, and you know it.
Be Clear With Test Info From the Beginning.
Collate as much info as possible before the test to share with anyone who may be interested. Provide information about sizing, gauge, yarn requirements, the lot. Be clear on yarn weights, does fibre content make a difference, or is it not an issue? Is it a secret test, or can makers share their excitement for their new WIP? When is the deadline?
Don’t forget to tell people which terminology you’re using, as you might sign up US testers who aren’t familiar with UK terms. I tend to add all of this at the top of the initial questionnaire I send out. People then know from the start what to expect.
Provided a Generous Deadline
Back in the old days, during crochet pattern testing, I would only give six weeks to make a whole cardigan! Oh dear, I thought six weeks was generous because I had managed to make a cardi in two weeks. It doesn’t mean everyone else can; people have other stuff going on in their lives. Larger sizes take more time, too. I had to learn to plan better.
A full garment with sleeves should probably be a minimum of ten weeks, ideally 12. Anticipate when that will be and plan your pattern launch around it. Think about when it’s seasonally appropriate so you’re not finishing a test for a woolly turtle neck jumper in the middle of summer.
Send a Finished Pattern
I have tested patterns that are supposed to have charts, and the chart isn’t ready. I have tested patterns, and the photos haven’t yet been added. Eek, it’s difficult, but if those things aren’t ready, your pattern isn’t ready to test. It isn’t fair to the maker if you’re not including everything.
Ensure the pattern is as close to how it’s supposed to look on publication. That’s only fair. And if it can’t be, please be clear and make sure folks are good with that.
Whilst we’re on the subject, I’m not a fan of sending a pattern section by section. Not only is it micromanaging more work for me, it also suggests there’s no trust involved. I don’t like that.
Be Open-Minded to Tester Feedback
It’s not always easy, but you need a thick skin to hear other people’s thoughts. I have been very lucky with my testing groups so far, and don’t recall any moment when I’ve felt hurt by any comments. Look at the bigger picture; feedback that is honest and constructive is invaluable, even if it’s worded bluntly. You will produce a better pattern if you listen to that feedback.
Do Not Charge Testers!!
This shouldn’t even be a discussion. Who are you to charge testers who can’t complete on time? I have seen discussions about charging for non-completion of a crochet pattern test. I don’t think this is fair. Luckily, I have never spoken to anyone who has experienced this, so maybe it’s a myth. Bet it isn’t, though.
And whilst we’re on the topic of ridiculous asks, an NDA for a pattern test? It’s a bit far-fetched, don’t you think?
Let The Ghosters Go
It’s not worth getting upset about the folks who ghost a pattern test. Oh, it stings for sure. I’ve been there many times, and as a result, I am learning to get over it. Just ensure you have chosen a couple more testers than you need. Ghosters aren’t your customers, so let it go.
Do You Need Testers Anymore?
This is an interesting one. With your tech-edited crochet pattern, does it even need to be tested!? There are some for and against arguments with this one. I still get anxious about my patterns and feel a lot more reassured when the more complex ones have been made by a lovely group of volunteers who have kindly given their time to crochet pattern testing.
However, the more experienced a designer becomes, the less of a need there is for testing. Apprehension has been nudged out of the way by acquired knowledge.
Crochet Pattern Testing: Final Thoughts
Hopefully, I have covered most elements of pattern testing for crochet. It’s quite a big topic when looking at it from both perspectives. But it is very important to explore this subject from the two angles because there is a lot of involvement from testers as well as designers
Ultimately, one of the key messages to take away from this is to remember that we’re all people doing what we love. Kindness comes from both directions in crochet pattern testing, and it makes me sad when I see folks on the internet arguing about it!
Whether you’re a tester or a designer, tell me about your crochet pattern testing experiences. Have I missed something crucial? Do you approach it from a different angle? Let me know in the comments.
Well, who knew that making a crochet hair scrunchie would turn into making two, three, four, five…?! These little stash busters are totally addictive! In truth, I’ve been making several scrunchies, adapting stitch counts as I go, to ensure the pattern has the perfect amount of ruffles. But even though this easy-peasy pattern has been perfected, it hasn’t stopped me from wanting more!
For speedy satisfaction, quick-fix crochet pattern ideas like these crochet hair bands are ideal when you don’t want to commit to a larger project. The free crochet pattern is below, eeek, I hope you like it!
If you’d like to know how to crochet around a hair tie, this is an easy project that you’ll enjoy making over and over again. I don’t need more, but I just can’t help imagining all the different colour combinations to try and all the different types of yarn that would look fabulous thrown together.
Stash Busting Hair Scrunchie: A Great Way to Use Yarn Scraps
The first iteration of the crochet hair scrunchie came about as I had leftovers from my Cirrus shawl. The crescent shawl uses two skeins of yarn: one lace-weight mohair and the other, a scrumptious DK boucle. There wasn’t much left of either as this shawl uses nearly all of both skeins. However, there were two walnut-sized balls leftover and therefore, ideal for a small crochet design. This version of the scrunchie doesn’t have as many stitches as the final pattern, so there weren’t enough ruffles for my liking. More ruffles, please!
Anyway, what can you do with little nuggets of yarn balls? All of those leftover yarn scraps? Tadah, crochet a ruffled hair scrunchie, of course!
No matter how many yarn scraps you have, you can throw them all into a design like this. The beauty of it is, is that you don’t need very much yarn at all. My heaviest crochet hair scrunchie uses just 15 grams of fingering-weight yarn. That’s only 60 metres!
What’s The Best Yarn For a Crochet Hair Scrunchie?
This design uses a lighter weight of yarn. It allows for more stitches and more ruffles without the bulk. You could change it up to a sport weight, perhaps even a double knit, but I think you’d have to reduce the number of stitches worked around the hair tie on the first round. This is possible to do, and it’s worth a try. However, do bear in mind that it could change the look of the scrunchie.
So, I recommend a fingering /sock weight yarn or 4ply, and when you’re feeling fancy, a lace weight mohair! You’ll need approximately 15 grams, which is 60 metres (66 yards) give or take.
For the most colourful crochet hair scrunchie, all of my smallest yarn scraps were gathered together. Anything from a couple of metres up to around 10 metres, these leftovers from other projects were all knotted together in a magic ball.
This technique is hard to describe in writing, however, I do have a video tutorial that demonstrates how to make a magic knot ball of yarn. It’s for another freebie pattern, but it’s the same knot tying that I used here. Watch from 1:08
I might also put together a quick Reel on Instagram to show you the steps on making a magic knot ball. I haven’t done it yet, wish me luck!
You don’t have to get yourself tied up in knots, though. I have made crochet hair scrunchies by only changing colour after a round or two. There is also nothing stopping you from making them all in one colour. Make them in all the colourful variations!
Using Mohair in Your Crochet Hair Scrunchie
Not everyone loves mohair yarn, but I do! I LOVE its fluffy warmth and delicate halo. I have amassed quite a lot of leftover mohair in my yarn stash, and it works perfectly for this crochet pattern. Actually, it’s not a badintroduction to using mohair yarn because it’s such a small project.
There are a couple of tips that make the experience even easier though. For the first round, where you crochet around the hair tie, use a non-fluffy fingering, sock or sport weight yarn. It’s not fiddly, whereas I think mohair would be for that round.
To make it even less fiddly, I don’t even bother working into the top of the mohair stitches but work in between them. That way, I can just shove the hook in between, and not so much precision is required. Have I ever mentioned that I am a supremely lazy crocheter?! Cutting corners can work sometimes… I didn’t do this for the fingering yarn hair tie though. You could if you wanted to.
Crochet Hair Scrunchie Pattern
Things You Need to Crochet a Hair Scrunchie
Please note that both US & UK patterns are below, make sure to choose the right one. You’ll need a 4mm crochet hook and some yarn scraps from your stash. Go for fingering /sock weight yarn or 4ply, or if you’re in the mood, a lace weight mohair. You’ll need approximately 15 grams, which is 60 metres (66 yards). For the mohair, I only used 11 grams.
And you’ll need a normal, everyday elastic hair tie. I have long hair, so loads are kicking about the house. I used them for this, but I do need to buy some more. You can get ones with bamboo in them, which is great.
Plan on changing colour? I usually just introduce the new colour on the last “yarn over” of the last stitch of a round. Then the new colour is then ready to go. Or use another favourite method of your choice.
Scrunchie Pattern US Terms
This pattern is written in US terms – scroll a bit further for the UK version. Rnd 1: 60sc around a hair tie, join with a sl st, do not turn. [60 sts] Rnd 2: Ch3 (counts as a stitch here & throughout), 1dc in same st, 2dc in each st around, join to the first st with a sl st, do not turn. [120 sts] Rnd 3: As Round 2. (240 sts) Rnd 4: Ch3, 1dc in same st, 1dc in next st, *2dc in next st, 1dc in next; rep from * around, join with a sl st, do not turn. [360 sts]
You can fasten off here or change to a contrasting colour or contrasting texture of yarn, perhaps a thicker mohair or boucle yarn.
Rnd 5: Ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch), sc in first st, ch1, miss a st, *sc in next st, ch1, miss a st; rep from * around, join to first st with a sl st. Fasten off and sew in ends (On my next scrunchie, I plan on adding 2 chains between each single crochet to see what that looks like. I think it’ll create a really nice finish.)
Scrunchie Pattern UK Terms
This pattern is written in UK terms – scroll up for the US version. Rnd 1: 60dc around a hair tie, join with a sl st, do not turn. [60 sts] Rnd 2: Ch3 (counts as a stitch here & throughout), 1tr in same st, 2tr in each st around, join to the first st with a sl st, do not turn. [120 sts] Rnd 3: As Round 2. (240 sts) Rnd 4: Ch3, 1tr in same st, 1tr in next st, *2tr in next st, 1tr in next; rep from * around, join with a sl st. [360 sts]
You can fasten off here or change to a contrasting colour or contrasting texture yarn, perhaps a thicker mohair or boucle yarn.
Rnd 5: Ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch), dc in first st, ch1, miss a st, *dc in next st, ch1, miss a st; rep from * around, join to first st with a sl st. Fasten off and sew in ends. (On my next scrunchie, I plan on adding 2 chains between each double crochet to see what that looks like. I think it’ll create a really nice finish.)
Isn’t that a great pattern for crocheting from stash?! I ruddy love a crochet pattern that uses up scrap yarn!
If you make your crochet hair scrunchie, please let me know. You could add them to your project page on Ravelry too, that way I get to see what you’ve made!
There is no simpler edging for a granny square blanket than this crochet bobble border. It is super easy to do and very quick to crochet. You can use this simple crochet edging in lots of different ways, too. In addition to blankets, it works well for crochet accessories too (I’ve used it for shawl edgings, for example).
For a while, I have been building up to writing up the crochet pattern for my granny square blanket (with its easy bobble border!). It is still not 100% complete. Over the last year or so, I have put together all the video tutorials and separate blog posts that, collectively, will be the resources you need to make your own version of the colourful crochet blanket.
It has actually been much longer than a year in the making. The picture above was taken many years ago. It’s a granny square blanket that I made for one of my sisters. I remember buying the yarn from a beautiful little yarn shop on the Isle of Wight. My eldest son was two years old at the time. He is about to turn sixteen, which tells you how long ago the idea was born!
I’ve tweaked the pattern a little bit since then; the granny squares are slightly different and I’ve played around with the colour combinations. Fundamentally though, it’s still the same crochet blanket.
Video Resources for a Crochet Blanket
There are a couple of final jobs before the blanket pattern is fully complete. I haven’t yet calculated yarn amounts needed and I need to remember all the colours I used. Listing yarn brands isn’t difficult but it does require some time to sit down at the computer. Especially as it would be nice to collate everything into a PDF too. It takes longer than you might expect!
Before I get to that final stage, here is what is available so far….
A fun place to start is my crochet podcast. In episode 104 I blithely chat about the blanket enough for you to get an idea of what it’s all about.
Then, for the “how to” vids, here is a video tutorial for the cute little granny squares. You’ll see what else I have used them for (aren’t granny squares versatile?!). I also demonstrate a Join As You Go Technique in the video tutorial for these squares, which is a great alternative for joining granny squares but I chose to join the blanket squares using the mattress stitch (see below).
To accompany the smallies, we have the large granny square with a circle centre. The video shows you how to change colour if you want new colours every round. It then continues to show you how to work the granny squares if you’d rather not change colour. Theses are useful techniques to have in your crochet repetoire.
Use the Mattress Stitch to join your granny squares. It creates such a professional finish. I know JAYG is awesome and speedy but I promise that the mattress stitch is worth the effort.
Crochet Bobble Edge Video Tutorial
The latest video tutorial to join the granny blanket resources is my new crochet bobble border video. It’s such a simple crochet border and it’s really fun to work up. It must be fun as I regularly choose to add this to blankets and crochet accessories.
For example, check out the bobble border on my Cirrus shawl too. It looks utterly fab in boucle yarn!
Anyway, if you’re a fan of a written crochet pattern, and/or want to use it as well as the video on my YouTube channel, read on…..
Written Pattern for a Crochet Bobble Border
Bobble Border Notes Etc
The crochet bobble border uses a stitch multiple of 4.
Use whatever yarn and hook size you like to create your crochet bobble border. I used DK yarn with a 4mm hook.
You can work this into a round of US double crochet stitches, hdc or sc stitches, it’ll look great worked into any of them.
Work the crochet bobble border on the wrong side of your crochet project.
For my granny blanket, this final round is worked into a round of US dc stitches (UK tr stitches).
Also note, life is too short for accuracy with this border. When it comes to adding it to a large crochet blanket, I refuse to count all of those stitches to check if I have the correct amount of multiples. Just fudge it! You won’t get sent to crochet prison.
Before you begin, here is how to work a Bobble Stitch: [yrh, insert hook into st, yrh, pull through, yrh, pull through 2 loops] five times in same st, yrh, pull through all 6 loops.
TLDR Version -Universal Crochet Terms (Works for both US & UK!)
Round 1: Working on the wrong side, join yarn to any stitch, *3 sl st, 1 bobble; rep from * around, join with a sl st to the first st. Cut yarn and fasten off. Done
Do you want the longer version for this granny blanket? Oh go on then…
Full Granny Blanket Border
This is for when you have finished joining all your granny squares together, making one big crochet blanket, and you’re ready to add a full border. I mentioned in the video tutorial that you can add as many rounds of granny clusters as your yarn stash will allow.
Note that I have written “ch3” to start the rounds. However, should you wish to use an alternative technique that looks waaay better, take a look at this video on alternative ways to chain 3. I demonstrate both in the edging tutorial. Or, rewatch the large granny tutorial so that you can see the alternative ways in more context. This latter video helps with how to change colour for crochet rounds too.
Where two granny squares meet, we add a little twist to the standard granny cluster. This is to ensure the blanket edges remain nice and straight. You don’t want to create too much fabric by adding extra clusters or you’ll end up with a kinky granny.
Take a look at the picture above, it shows two corners of granny squares sitting side by side (blue & orange). Rather than each of them having its own cluster in their respective corners, we work one makeshift cluster across them both. (in US terms) you work 1dc in the first corner, then dc2tog (a decrease) across both corners, ending with 1dc in the second corner = (1dc, dc2tog, 1dc).
Granny Bobble Border Pattern
Round 1 (US terms): Join yarn to any space between granny clusters, ch3, 2dc in same space, *3dc in next space between clusters; rep from * to next two granny square corners, 1dc in first granny corner, dc2tog across the first and 2nd granny corners, 1dc in 2nd granny corner, continue in pattern to corner, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in 2ch-sp, continue in pattern around, join with a sl st to the top of the first st, do not turn.
Rnds 2 – whatever number you like: Ch3, 2dc in same space, *3dc in next space between clusters; rep from * to corner, (3dc, 2ch, 3dc) in corner, rep from * to next corner and continue in pattern around, join with a sl st to the top of the first st, do not turn.
Next Rnd: Ch3, dc to first corner, 5dc in corner 2ch-sp, continue in pattern around, join with sl st to first st, turn.
Last Round (Bobble edging worked on wrong side): *3sl st, 1 bobble st; rep from * around, join with sl st to first st, fasten off & cut yarn.
If you have enjoyed this free crochet pattern, please take a look around my blog for some excellent crochet tips & tricks, which I really enjoy putting together, plus find more free crochet patterns here.
Last year I worked with Lindsey from Curate Curate (aka Lottie & Albert!) to design this fun crochet sampler scarf. The idea behind the scarf was to introduce a few classic crochet stitches but mix them up in an interesting and unique way.
The good news is that I have released the crochet pattern and you can buy a copy from Ravelry or, if you prefer, my Etsy shop. If you purchase within the first few weeks of release, enjoy 25% off with the code DISCO25.
This colourful crochet sampler scarf pattern comes in both UK & US terms and has lots of supporting photographs and charts.
A Discovery of Stitches Scarf
You can read more about the original Discovery of Stitches scarf here. For this new version, I wanted to have a scarf that had a few more colours and also incorporate some yarn stash busting. The Disco Stitches crochet sampler scarf is an excellent way to use up leftover yarn scraps!
But for those of you who are not interested in stash busting, I also opted for two new yarns to work with and you can enjoy a colour-changing yarn so that you don’t have to think about what colours to choose.
Crochet Sampler Scarf Construction
The Disco Stitches crochet sampler scarf is made in two identical pieces that are then sewn together in the middle. I have noticed that many crocheters are turned off by sewing so this scarf has no sewing in the actual making of the pieces.
Two strips are made in the same way, but the colours are swapped around for the second piece. This ensures that the same amount of yarn is used in both pieces and there are little to no leftovers.
Each stitch section builds on the next. The stitches are nice and easy and it is a very mindful crochet make. Yippee!
What Yarn Do You Need?
In the greeny blue version I used a colour changing DK yarn called Hayfield Spirit (in the colour way, Meadow) paired with Stylecraft Life DK, in Parchment. My favourite version of the crochet sampler scarf is the stash busting scarf. For that one, I mostly used Yarnsmiths 100% Merino DK yarn. Although, there is a possibility that one or two of the contrast shades are a different brand. However, I’m sure you can substitute with many other yarn brands.
You can find out more about yarn substitution here. You don’t have to use the yarn I did. Use what you have and you’ll end with your own cracking crochet project.
Fringe Or Tassels for a Scarf?
You can also choose whether to add fringe or tassels to your crochet sampler scarf. You may know by now that I love to provide different options in my patterns and this design is no exception.
I loved putting together the ombre fringe for the colour-changing scarf. It was really calming and mindful to sort through my yarn strands and create a gentle spectrum of blues and greens. I used every bit of that 100g ball of Meadow in the scarf. No wastage!!
But I was also really curious to see what the scarf would look like with a cute bundle of tassels! I wish I had added more tassels but I didn’t have enough of the neutral shade left. Oops. That sometimes happens with stash busting (but fear not, I have calculated what you need of the main colour in the pattern).
Support to Help You and Your Crochet Sampler Scarf
Not only are there lots of new crochet charts and photos to support you when you make this crochet sampler scarf, the Disco stitches sampler is also supported by a few video tutorials too.
You’ll find that I have also used video tutorials for slightly different patterns where the techniques used are the same. For example, the way I join my granny squares rounds is demonstrated in a video for a granny square blanket.
The mattress stitch is also used in the crochet sampler scarf (only once, don’t worry) and I have a video tutorial to show you exactly how to work that sewing stitch. It’s in a video for joining granny squares rather than two scarf pieces but it’s the same method. But here is how I see it, everything in crochet is super versatile and I employ the same excellent techniques again and again in my patterns. Why would I not?!
Although today is a lovely sunny day and I can feel that spring is on the way, there is still plenty of scarf-wearing weather ahead of us. So feel free to pop over to my Ravelry store and get a copy of the crochet scarf pattern! If you’re not a Ravelry user, you can also find the crochet pattern in Etsy.
You can also find more of my crochet patterns in those places or check out my free crochet patterns page. Ta very much! x
