Finally, after several weeks and months, I am pleased to share my Sun Dogs crochet pouch pattern!! These cute cotton drawstring bags come in three different sizes and use really simple crochet stitches. Yet, despite their simplicity – the Sun Dogs pouches use the houndstooth stitch – they look stunning! (I am allowed to say this even if they’re my own design, right?!)
You can buy a copy of the pattern from my Etsy shop or, if you’d prefer, you can find Sun Dogs on Ravelry. The pattern comes in US and UK terminology, and has charts and lots of photos to help you with the stitch construction. However, if you want a little try before you buy, find a snippet of the crochet pattern below!
And get 25% off your pattern with the code: SUNDOGS26 (valid until 1st August 26). However, today, I am sharing the small-sized crochet pouch right here on the blog. For free!!
Try The Little Sun Dogs Pouch Pattern
While I think you’ll really enjoy the full PDF crochet pattern, with three different sizes and all the bells and whistles of additional information, I am happy to share the small crochet pouch pattern below.
So, you will need a 3.5mm crochet hook and some DK cotton yarn. For this project, I chose to use Yarnsmiths Cotton DK. I bought a bucketful of various colours a few months ago and have really enjoyed using it in different crochet patterns. In my experience, it is ideal for crochet as it creates a lovely stitch definition and has a decent range of shades to choose from.
Actually, Sun Dogs is a great crochet pattern for using up yarn leftovers, too. And no one says you have to use cotton DK. You can use lots of different yarn fibres and weights for this quick crochet pattern; it’s so versatile!
However, I think natural fibres will work best for structure and durability. If you don’t like cotton, how about bamboo or linen? And if DK is too thick for your tastes, try 4-ply cotton instead!
Did You Know?
Sun dogs, or parhelia, are bright spots of light that sometimes appear on either side of the sun. They are seen as a sign of good luck. I thought this was lovely, and it’s the perfect name for a crochet pattern that uses the houndstooth stitch!
And another fun fact… this little pouch was first designed in November last year. I made one off the hoof for my little niece’s birthday. I made the medium and thought it needed some companions. Of course, you could make it in any size you like, really.
The following instructions are written in US crochet terms. Note that CC means contrast colour.
Pattern Begins
With the main colour, ch4 and join with a sl st to form a ring, or work a magic circle. Rnd 1 (Right Side): Ch3 (counts as a st here & throughout), 11dc into ring, join with sl st to first st, do not turn. – 12 sts. 2: Ch3, 1dc in same st, *2dc in next st; rep from * around, join with sl st, do not turn. – 24 sts. 3: Ch3, 1dc in same st, 1dc, *2dc in next st, 1dc; rep from * around, join with sl st, turn. – 36 sts. 4 (Wrong Side): Ch3, 1sc in next st, *1dc, 1sc; rep from * around, join with sl st, turn. Change to CC. 5 (R/S): Ch1 (does not count as a stitch), 1sc in first st, 1dc, *1sc, 1dc; rep from * around, join with sl st, turn. Change to main colour.
Rnds 6 – 14: Rep Rows 4 & 5, ending on R4. 15: With main colour, as Rnd 5, do not turn. 16: Ch1, *3hdc, ch1, miss 1st; rep from * around, join with sl st, do not turn. – 9 sps. 17: 1sl st into next st (middle st of first 3hdc), 5dc in ch-sp, *1sl st in centre st of next 3 sts, 5dc in ch-sp; rep from * around, join with sl st to first sl st. – 9 scallops.
Fasten off and cut yarn. Sew in ends.
I made a crochet tomato! Or is it a strawberry?! To find out, I put it to a vote on Instagram, and a huge majority of folks chose strawberry. That means, at some point, I’m going to have to sew on a bajillion little beads… FYI, it’s made using the small Sun Dogs crochet pouch.
I really hope you like the pattern. You will definitely whip one up in no time at all. For more crochet inspiration, check out my free crochet patterns page.
Let’s just start with the sad bit and get it out of the way. My Mum died. I flip between knowing, accepting, and understanding wholly that it was her time to go, and complete and utter surprise that she actually deigned to leave after being so stubborn, ordinarily refusing to let illness stop her.
First and foremost, I saw her as a scientist (she worked in labs since the age of sixteen) and an avid learner of many things. But, perhaps due to the generation she was from, or perhaps just because she wanted to, she also explored arts and crafts and had many strings to her bow.
She made her own clothes until her fingers couldn’t. She made me clothes when I was little, too. And I still have a couple of items that she knitted and crocheted back in the seventies and eighties (I can’t write these as actual numbers, as she would say it wasn’t grammatically accurate).
Anyway, I’ve been going through some of her photographs to sort them out, and I’ve found a couple where she’s carrying a really cool patchwork bag. I don’t know if she made it herself. Maybe? A friend might have made it, or perhaps my Nanna (at one time, her mother-in-law).
Unsurprisingly, I saw the bag and thought, I bet that would look amazing in crochet! And that’s all there was to it. I immediately made a start on Mum’s Granny Square Bag.
Fundamentals of Making Mum’s Granny Square Bag
In the rest of this blog post, I’m going to break down all the details so that you have a recipe for how to crochet a granny square bag of your own.
You can also watch the accompanying video of how I made it, which includes a casual demonstration of how I worked the final squares to join them into a bag shape. Plus, I have an argument with a sewing machine.
I know it’s a lot, but I recommend reading through everything.
This Granny Square Bag blog post consists of the following:
These are all clickable links that will take you to the relevant section of the blog post!
Using Leftover Yarn To Crochet A Granny Square Bag
Mum’s granny square bag (or, if you feel that’s weird, you can call it Granny Margaret’s Bag) is made from yarn scraps of cotton DK yarn. I didn’t allow myself to buy any new yarn for this project as I have yarn in my stash that’s been sitting there for far too long. A granny square project like this is ideal for using up leftover yarn.
As luck would have it, I had enough yarn in lots of bright colours. Some I definitely ran out of and had to eke it out very carefully, but it is definitely the ultimate kind of Stash Busting. It felt so good to use it. It’s not all Paintbox DK cotton, but most of it probably is.
My advice for a crochet project like this is to make conscious choices about saving longer scraps of yarn for later granny square rounds. I used my tiniest yarn leftovers to work the first rounds. The amount I had of each colour definitely dictated colour choices; beyond that, I didn’t think about it too much.
Granny Bag Measurements and Useful Info
OK, we’re beginning to lay out a recipe here. I’ll start with measurements of the different bag elements.
One four-round granny square using my own pattern measures 12 cm across the diagonal. The finished bag measures: 36 cm deep x 49 cm across (not including the handles or tabs).
You will need 42 granny squares and 12 granny triangles. I have video tutorials on how to crochet both – see links below.
Things You Need To Crochet A Granny Square Bag
You need more than 352 grams of cotton DK yarn! This is what my bag weighed before its lining and handles. And you’d have to be very blessed to have the exact amounts in all the colours, so make sure you have more than that in total. You’ll need surplus to ensure you can do some jiggery pokery with colour combinations, etc. See below for a suggested palette.
You will also need a 3.5mm crochet hook (we don’t want loose and floppy grannies, do we?!).
Bag handles are from Amazon, Etsy, or a craft shop. Type “long bag handles” into Google, and these are bound to come up. They’re fairly common.
Fabric for lining. Nothing fancy is needed; mine is probably cheap polycotton.
Optional but advisable – a (working) sewing machine.
Lots of bulb stitch markers, needle and thread.
Yarn Colours For Mum’s Granny Square Bag
I’ve mentioned yarn scraps and using yarn leftovers, and look, this is not a project where I can be precise with each colour. I can give you a rough idea of the colours, but they’re not all exact, as I actually used some other brands. However, assuming you want all the same, let’s go with Paintbox DK cotton, since that’s the majority. The shades are as follows (I’ve matched them as closely as possible where it’s a different brand).
If you had one ball in each colour, you would absolutely have enough to make Mum’s Granny Square Bag.
List of Colours Used:
Spearmint
Bubblegum Pink
Vanilla Cream
Slate Grey
Lime Green
Washed Teal
Marine Blue
Lapis Blue
Pale Lilac
Pansy Purple
Raspberry
Rose Red
Daffodil Yellow
Blood Orange
Rosy Pink
Coffee Bean
Crochet Hints, Tips and Tutorials
Here, I’ve collated other crochet resources that will help you.
This is so useful!! You’ll need this chart for the granny square layout.
I am embarrassed to admit that I got the shaping wrong twice before this successful attempt. My poor little noggin isn’t the sharpest at the moment, and I messed up. First, because I kept thinking I was going to be joining totally different square sides. After much confusion, I cut out a chart and folded it like a little origami piece. That way, I could actually see where each square needed to be joined. Oh dear!
Then, I completed a whole piece of fabric, had it bag-shaped and ready to line. It was enormous! I’d even sewn in all my ends. There were hours of unpicking to get rid of the extra granny squares I didn’t need. Arghh. Never mind, it’s a lesson in patience.
Right, let’s look at the (correct) chart below. The squares marked with asterisks indicate which to leave until all the others have been joined. You need to leave those to the end because they are the ones that turn a flat piece of fabric magically into a bag pocket – by the power of Join As You Go. Speaking of which…
Join As You Go Granny Squares
For a project like this, Join As You Go, or JAYG, is the best joining method for granny squares in my humble opinion. Well, you can sew them if you want to, but this is a heck of a lot quicker!
Work most of the squares in a flat piece of fabric. It’s only the last four squares that are joined on every side to turn the flat fabric into a 3-dimensional bag. Follow the chart, but also bear in mind that you might wish for an even distribution of colours.
Below is a photo of how I choose to distribute colours evenly. I absolutely played about a bit, switched around colours whenever I fancied. You do not have to be rigid in this kind of crochet project, and you can do what you like.
The photo might be one of the first attempts, so if you’re trying to copy, note that it could be wrong. However, it does a good job of showing, visually, what I mean by the distribution of colours.
I like the idea of having half a plan so that there’s freedom to make small adjustments should I decide that, actually, it’d be nice to make the final round a shade of green for a particular square rather than turquoise… Or, one section has the lion’s share of red; let’s spread it out a bit. Perhaps, it’s a bit like yarn ball chess! Sort of.
JAYG Granny Triangles
These form the bag top and side openings. I have a video tutorial for the granny triangle pattern. Here’s the link for how to crochet granny triangles.
I tweaked the hypotenuse of the triangle for the final round to remove a cluster (you’ll see in the video). The idea behind this was to get rid of any bulk at the tops of the bag. You don’t have to, though, and I’m not convinced my tweakings were worth it.
You use the same JAYG method for triangles as you do for squares.
Simple Tabs For The Granny Bag Opening
Once you’ve completed the joining of the granny squares, the bag needs a couple of tabs at the bag openings. These are to slide through the gaps in the handles, thus anchoring them in place once they’ve been stitched down.
The tabs consist of two rows of US double (UK treble) stitches followed by a final row of SC (UK dc) stitches to both opening ends. These tabs prevent the handles from gobbling up the granny triangles. I want to see my granny triangles in all their glory!
There is nothing fancy about these tabs; they’re for practical purposes only. Join in your preferred way and, for Row 1, crochet along the series of triangles. I didn’t take a photo, but you can see it more clearly in the Granny Square Bag video.
Sewing A Crochet Bag Lining
Once you’ve made Mum’s Granny Square Bag, make a simple lining. It really will add structural integrity and make your bag last longer. Everything I’ve done to sew this bag lining has been eyeballed.
Lay the crochet bag on top of a folded piece of complementary fabric that’s slightly larger than the crochet – something like a medium-weight cotton or polycotton is fine.
Mark where you’ll need to sew the side seam, where to stop and press the side openings, and where you’ll need to top stitch the opening hems. Once stitched and pressed, I placed the pocketty lining into the bag and pinned it in place so I could hand-stitch it securely.
If you’ve seen the video, you’ll know that I did not have a good time with the sewing machine. It’s almost entirely user error! Yet, despite my tantrums, I think you’ll get the gist.
Attaching Bag Handles to Crochet Fabric
Attaching bag handles doesn’t have to be perfectly done. I wriggle the top tabs through the handles and then pin them in place using lots of bulb stitch markers. When sewing the tabs down, I used doubled up thread. I think this makes it much more sturdy.
Another Granny’s Patchwork Bag. Future Plans!
So, what I’ve shared above isn’t the final iteration of Mum’s granny square bag. It’s not quite right yet. But don’t get me wrong, it’s a stunner, but I can make one that’s even better.
Mine is a different ratio than Mum’s patchwork bag, so I want to change that. Mine is a lot deeper, and I know what I’ll do to change it for next time. Basically, there are two main things to change: I can make the squares a round smaller, and increase the width of the fabric by adding another row of granny squares. That would adjust the proportions. Although don’t take my word for it just yet, I haven’t done my sums!
Then, I might use 4-ply yarn and keep the same number of rounds as this colourful version, but still add another row of squares. 4-ply cotton will make a smaller, lighter bag and remove any hint of bulk. Not that I think DK yarn is bulky, but eh, it is just a teensy bit. It makes it a heavier bag than I’d like, so I will need to go yarn shopping for 4-ply cotton – such a shame!
And when I do that, I will try to replicate the colour palette on Mum’s OG bag: lots of dusky hues and perhaps colour block squares rather than stash busting. What do you think?
Mum’s Granny Square Bag
And that’s it. You should find everything you need here to crochet your own bag, but if I have missed anything or you have a burning question, please leave a comment, and I’ll get back to you.
We’re having a heat wave in the UK, so we need to protect ourselves from the rays of the blazing sun. A really super way of doing that is to make some crochet hats for the summer!
A summer hat made from light cotton yarn or raffia is a great crochet project for quick satisfaction, but it is also practical. More than ever, we are becoming more conscious of looking after our skin, so these three crochet hats for the summer are perfect to protect your head and shield your eyes.
Each of the crochet bucket hat patterns I am sharing with you today are totally free and right here on the blog! Find them and more on my Free Crochet Patterns page. Or, for a closer look at the crochet hats for summer, read on…
Cotton Bucket Hat Pattern
Let’s start with the most straightforward crochet summer hat. It is a bucket hat made from DK cotton in easy US dc stitches. You will be able to whip up one of these bucket hats in no time.
What I haven’t done yet is to make one in all one colour, and I would love to! I’m also tempted to add a scallop border, which would look really pretty. Included in the pattern is a crab stitch border, but you could easily adapt this to add something different.
Up until now, I have used this crochet hat pattern to bust my stash. You can make it so that each round is a different colour, like I did in my first cheerful hat, or every two rows, as above. Or, make it more colour block. You can do whatever you like!
A couple of winters ago, I designed a cosy granny stripe hat, really warm and woolly with a snug ribbed brim. This summery granny stripe hat is the version for warmer weather.
This time, I chose to use an aran-weight cotton yarn but downsized on the crochet hook to make a stiff fabric. Sometimes, I am not keep on floppy hats as they have a tendency to get in the way of your face.
Find the free granny stripe bucket hat pattern here. This pattern includes some useful tips and tricks to learn and improve your crochet techniques.
Crochet a Raffia Bucket Hat
This raffia bucket hat is my very first summer crochet hat design. I made it with Wool and the Gang’s Ra Ra Raffia, which is a very nice raffia to work with. I’ve tried others before, and my hands have been punished. I must see if I can find alternative yarn substitutes, as it’s quite pricey stuff. Anyway, I digress…
This final pattern of the three crochet hats for summer uses hdc as the main stitch. In raffia, it looks nice and tidy and is still speedy to work up.
As the pattern is a bit older than the others, it is written in UK terms, so it’s a good job I have a tutorial, so you can get a better understanding of the terms. I explain in the blog post, too. There are also lots of pretty pictures to look at. They are so summery and quintessentially English looking!
Three Crochet Hats for Summer
There is a connection between these hats. I often find that ideas create new avenues to explore. Therefore, the making of the raffia hat led me to wonder if I should try dc stitches rather than hdc. What would happen to the shaping? The number of rows? How can I change the brim to flare out more? Thus, the Easy Cotton Bucket Hat was born.
So a new bucket hat is on the scene. But how can I change that one, too? What would it look like in granny stripes? How can I make the fabric more useful for a summer hat? Voila, it’s the granny stripe hat!
What’s next in the crochet hat evolution? Well! Gosh, ideas beget ideas, don’t they? I think I could come up with a few more suggestions. How about you? What would you do to add your own additional tweaks to your summer crochet hat? Let me know!
Granny Stitch Shawlette: A Quick And Easy Crochet Project
This granny stitch shawlette pattern is a really quick crochet project that you can work up in just a few hours. It is named Harpier, which is a nod to its cousin, the Wayward Sisters shawl. It is very similar but with a few small differences. These little tweaks create a completely new look.
Both names are taken from Shakespeare, not that I’m a major fan or anything, but I did study Macbeth at school and always liked the witchy element. The rest of the story, well, I won’t tell it here. This is about the granny crochet!
Yarn To Crochet a Shawlette Pattern
For the main section of my granny shawlettes, I used 150 grams of DK merino yarn. But you can use any yarn you like for a simple crochet idea like this. If you want something a bit daintier, why not try a 4ply or sport-weight yarn?
I made a 4ply version using Drops Alpaca – I use Drops a lot at the moment, this is not sponsored, it’s just really cheap for what you get, so I bought a lot this year! When I made the navy version in the picture below, I worked as many rows as I could with one ball. I left just enough to work a foundation of US sc stitches all the way around.
I have no idea where this little crochet neckerchief has gone. Where is it?! I want it so I can count the number of rows I worked. Arghhhh, how can it be missing?!!
Granny Shawlette Pattern
Things You Need To Crochet a Granny Shawlette
150g DK yarn – I used 3 balls of Drops Daisy for the main colour -100% Wool (110m/120yd/50g). Marzipan is the neutral shade, and I think Brown was the other.
1x 50g ball of contrasting colour for the edging. You won’t use it all.
If using 4ply, you can make a slightly smaller version with one 50 gram ball of the main colour, plus another shade for the border.
4mm crochet hook. Or, if you are using a different weight of yarn, match your hook size to the yarn.
The granny shawlette pattern is written in US terms.
You can buy a PDF version of Harpier, this granny shawlette, here on Ravelry. And if you don’t use Rav, it is also in my Etsy store. It also comes with charts for the shawl, plus the crochet edgings.
Granny Shawlette Pattern
Chain 4 and join with a slip stitch. (I don’t use a magic circle for this, as I will work into the chained ring when it comes to the border). Row 1: Ch4 (counts as 1dc and 1ch here & throughout), 3dc, 1ch, 1dc, turn. [1 cluster of 3 dc + 1 st at either side] Row 2: Ch4, 3dc in first ch-sp, 1ch, (3dc, 1ch, 1dc) in last ch-sp, turn. [2 clusters + 1 st at either side] Row 3: Ch4, 3dc in first ch-sp, 1ch, 3dc in next ch-sp, 1ch, (3dc, 1ch, 1dc) in last ch-sp, turn. [3 clusters + 1 st at either side] Row 4: Ch4, 3dc in first ch-sp, 1ch, *3dc in next ch-sp, 1ch; rep from * to last ch-sp, (3dc, 1ch, 1dc) in last ch-sp, turn. [4 clusters + 1 st at either side, increasing by 1 cluster each row] Rows 5 – 40: Rep Row 4.
Which Crochet Edging Will You Choose?
There are two options here for adding crochet edgings to your granny stitch shawlette. But there is nothing to say you have to use either of these edgings. You could add crab stitch, a camel stitch would look great, or perhaps some dainty picots. Keeping it simple works best in a pattern like this.
Below, I have provided two crochet edgings to add to your little granny shawls. First up, if you fancy a fuss free crochet I-Cord, I’ve got you covered. And if that’s not your bag, let’s go full-on classic crochet with a scallop border.
For both edgings, I chose to use contrasting yarn colours. You can use the same colour as the main part of the granny shawl if you prefer.
Crochet I-Cord Edging
For a modern twist in crochet, try this easy crochet I-cord edging. Essentially, it is a double slip stitch, and it is like a cheat’s crochet i-cord. Compared to other crochet methods for creating an I-Cord, it is super quick and easy. Below is the link to a video tutorial as well.
Here is how to work a double slip stitch (dsl st): *Insert hook in first st, yo & pull through (2 loops on hook), insert hook into next st, yo, pull through all loops; rep from * starting in st just used.
Rnd 1: With main colour, join yarn to any st, work 3sc in each end of granny stripe rows, 1sc in each st along top, and 3sc in beg circle made at the bottom point of the triangle, join with sl st to first st, turn. – 486 sts approx. Don’t worry if it’s a stitch or two different – To be honest, I didn’t even bother to count mine as life is too short. Rnds 2 – 5: With a contrast colour, dsl st around in a continuous round.
A Simple Scallop Edging
If you’re not ready to crochet I-cord edging, or it’s not as pretty for what you have in mind, let’s go for a crochet scallop edging instead.
I haven’t bothered with a round of foundation stitches; I just work the scallops directly between the granny clusters. Note that “clus” means clusters, representing the three stitches of a classic granny.
Rnd 1: Join a contrast colour to end of Row 39, 1sc, *5dc in next row end, 1sc in next; rep from * down 1st side to point, 7dc in point, 1sc in next row end up 2nd side of shawl, rep from * to last row of 2nd side, 7dc in end of Row 40, miss 3 sts, **1sc in sp between clus, 5dc in next sp between clus; rep from ** to end, 7dc in end of Row 40, join to first sc with sl st. Fasten off and sew in ends.
Blocking a Crochet Shawl
This is the sort of crochet project that comes to life after blocking. It looks OK before, too, but honestly, blocking takes it to another level. In fact, this is a dead simple crochet project to try blocking for the first time.
Here’s blocking in a nutshell: Blocking means to wash or steam your yarny items and then (gently or aggressively, depending on the situation) pin out to stretch the item as it dries. It will then be fixed in its new state. It adds drape and softness, and can make the yarn in your crochet project bloom into life.
I recently bought a knitting dolly. I remembered having one when I was a little girl and suddenly wanted to try it again. They are less than a tenner, so I added one to my basket at a recent yarn buying session. A few inches of “knitting” and you have an I-Cord to tie your granny shawlette! I think it’s cute.
The “knitted” cord produced by the doll matches the i-cord edging of the granny shawlettes. They are ideal for tying a crochet kerchief around the neck, and it looks very cute.
This colourful yarn of the edging is a beautiful hand-dyed yarn by Hook & Cwtch.
If you have enjoyed making a granny stitch shawlette of your own, please let me know. You can add your cool new crochet project to Ravelry, I’ll definitely spy it there. And if you want to try another of my free crochet patterns, you can!
In the spring of last year, my sister told me she was having another baby. Therefore, I immediately started making granny squares for a cute little baby blanket. It was the ideal opportunity to work on a tutorial for the Continuous Join As You Go technique. Is it weird to use real-life stuff for crochet blog content?! No, of course not!
The granny squares waited a long time for me to put together with a very simple CJAYG method. For ten months, the squares sat waiting for their Continuous JAYG treatment. I was very late. I gifted the baby blanket last week, when we went to Scotland for a few days. Its recipient is now three and a half months old! Whoops. Do you think I’ll be forgiven?
What Is CJAYG?
The Continuous Join As You Go (or CJAYG) is a really quick and seamless way to join granny squares with the same yarn. No cutting! No rejoining! No ends to sew in! Rejoice!
This crochet joining method looks complicated, but once you make the first couple of steps, I find it clicks into place super fast. However, sometimes I need a reminder of the order in which to join the granny squares, so I draw myself a little map!
Video Tutorial for Continuous Join As You Go
The CJAYG road map is very, very handy. But what’s really handy is a video tutorial to demonstrate each step of how to continuously work around the outside of granny squares to bring them together in one beautiful crochet blanket.
I have put together a video tutorial for you so that you can see how I use a Continuous Join As You Go to make a blanket in one cohesive way.
The Difference Between JAYG and CJAYG
The Continuous Join As You Go (CJAYG), as established, uses the same yarn all in one, with no cutting. However, JAYG, or Join As You Go, does require the yarn to be cut.
I use JAYG if my granny squares are going to have different colours on the last round of each motif. There are still ends to weave in, but at least you don’t have to sew anything together. It’s also nice and quick to crochet, as well.
JAYG is perfect for colourful granny squares, but you can also use it for other stitches too. There’s a different JAYG technique for Corner 2 Corner crochet, for example. I use that in my Mixed Tape Melody blanket and my Milis sweater.
What To Watch Out for When Using Continuous Join As You Go
My most common mistake when using Continuous Join As You Go is that I accidentally miss a space between granny clusters. Instead, I’ll slip stitch into the following space and get all confused when the squares don’t match. It’s a simple fix. If something feels wonky, check, spot the error and undo. The chances are, you won’t have gone too far before you spot this mistake.
In the photo below, I have done exactly this. If you look closely, you’ll see that I didn’t slip stitch between the first and second granny clusters on the right-hand square. I noticed when I got to the next corner, the clusters were out of sync. It took no time to redo, and the crisis was averted!
I quite often accidentally join the wrong sides together, too, and start creating weird 3D shapes. It’s not anything to panic about. Again, check often and just redo.
Top Tips to Organise Your CJAYG Squares
There are a couple of other useful things that I think are helpful for this Continuous Join As You Go method:
Pop a stitch marker into the very first stitch you made. This is your first corner, and it helps you keep track of the direction you’re working in.
Arrange each row of granny squares in organised piles so that you can reach for them when it’s time to do the next row. If it’s a big blanket, tie them in separate numbered bundles so you maintain the order in which you want them to be.
Check often, lay your blanket out now and then to ensure there are no mistakes.
If it’s a new technique for you, it’s a good one to work on at a table or on the floor at first. It’s not essential, obviously, but I think it stops rogue squares pushing in where they are not supposed to be. It maintains the square order more easily and helps you join squares in the right place.
Colours To Choose For a CJAYG Granny Square Blanket
So, you’ll need one colour for your CJAYG round. Ensure you have a couple of hundred grams for a baby-sized blanket, more if it’s bigger. This should be enough for the joining of squares, plus a cute crochet border. I like to choose a neutral colour to do this when there are lots of colourful granny squares.
Crocheting a granny square baby blanket is a great opportunity to play with colourful yarn. If you’re not that confident in knowing how to arrange the colours for each round of granny squares, let me show you one way I approach it; guess who has a video tutorial!?
It’s from when I made the squares for this baby blanket back in June last year. I go through how to balance and distribute the colours among the squares in a super easy way.
A Finished Granny Square Blanket Using CJAYG
Wow! I had almost forgotten how long ago it was since I started this granny square blanket. It’s a relief and a pleasure to have it done and gifted. Let’s hope it gets lots of use. I know that my niece has been eyeballing it already, but she already has plenty of blankets – this one is for her little brother. What can I say, we’re a blanketty family!
The last rounds were worked in the car on the way to visit my new nephew in Scotland. It’s always last-minute with me! It was a very simple border consisting of as many granny rounds as I could get with the yarn I had (approx 200 grams).
The last round was 7dc (UK tr) scallops. Would you be interested in a pattern?!
The Aster Granny Square Scarf is the ultimate in quick-fix crochet. I came up with this scarf idea when I was supposed to be working on a crochet commission and was putting off the hard work. I was procraftinating, if you like. Essentially, I was seeking out yarny gratification in making mindful granny squares. I know I’m approaching burnout when I reach for their easy, reassuring comfort.
But sometimes, granny squares are a bit too simple, you know? I wanted to turn them into a project that was a little bit more special. Nothing too crazy, but seeing as I already have a habit of turning these crochet squares on their sides, it seemed a simple way of making a scarf a touch more fun and interesting.
The Aster Granny Square Scarf is available to purchase from Etsy, or you can grab it from the Zeens Roger Ravelry store, too. The ad-free PDF pattern includes schematics, full written instructions, step-by-step photos of the Join As You Go technique, as well as useful crochet charts. The information you’re about to read below is more of a recipe.
I also created a video tutorial showing you how to crochet the granny square scarf in all its different stages.
Aster Granny Square Scarf In a Nutshell
There is some useful information below, but you may be confident enough to go for it with just the bare bones of the scarf recipe. With that in mind, here’s a TLDR of how to make the Aster Granny Square Scarf in a few key points:
Grab a 4mm crochet hook and your DK yarn stash (approx 50g for the headscarf, 100g for the necktie & 150g for the longer scarf)
For JAYG, make lots of 2 round granny squares.
For JAYG, make twice as many granny triangles.
Sew in all their ends now!
If using mattress stitch to sew together – work the square and triangles all with 3 rounds.
Join squares with your preferred method.
Work crochet edging – the pattern is written below and shown in the vid tutorial.
There isn’t anything particularly difficult in the Aster Granny Square Scarf; in fact, it’s super easy to make. And it is pretty versatile too.
Whether you would like to crochet a necktie version or a longer, more traditional scarf, the choice is yours. Perhaps it’ll depend on how much yarn stash you have, but you could make the Aster scarf in any length you like. You could add more rounds to the squares, use just one colour or alllll the colours.
In this pattern, you have many options. How about a headscarf too?
A Granny Square Headscarf
Of course, if you don’t want crochet around your neck, how about a granny square headscarf? It’s the same pattern, just with a tweak or two! I would actually love to make a headscarf in 4ply yarn too, it would look very delicate and lacey, just perfect for spring/summer.
The Aster Headscarf incorporates ties in the first round of the edging. It is not difficult to do. In the video tutorial, I used US single crochet stitches for the ties, but I’ve since changed my mind. I highly recommend swapping to slip stitch instead. The ties aren’t quite so thick with slip stitches.
Aster Granny Square Scarf Measurements
When using a 4mm crochet hook and DK wool yarn, 1 square measures approx: 10cm / 4 inches, on the diagonal. Or 7cm / 2.75 inches down a square side.
Width of all patterns: 11cm / 4.25 inches. Little Granny Scarves: 90cm / 35.5 inches. Long Granny Scaves: 140cm / 55 inches. Granny headscarf length (inc. 2x 26cm ties): 92cm / 36.25 inches each.
How To Crochet The Aster Granny Square Scarf
Yarn For Your Aster Granny Square Scarf
I used wool DK yarn. My fave is merino, but you can use any yarn you like for a crochet project like this. A couple of yarn brands I’m currently obsessed with are Drops and Yarnsmiths. King Cole has a couple of nice options, too. They all have DK yarn balls in 50-gram skeins, which are ideal for small crochet projects.
To make the Aster Granny scarf, you need:
4mm crochet hook
DK yarn – depending on the size you make, you’ll need approximately:
Little Scarf – Less than 220m/240yds/100g of DK yarn. Include 1x50g of main colour if stashbusting, OR 2x50g if monochrome.
Long Scarf – Less than 330m/360yds/150g of DK yarn. Include 2x50g of main colour, if stashbusting, OR 3x50g if monochrome.
Headscarf – Yarnsmiths Merino DK, 100% Merino Wool (110m/120yd/50g). 1 ball in Multi Tweed (T3820)
A list of my current favourite DK wool yarns that come in 50g balls (and scraps of which feature in these crochet projects).
King Cole Majestic 20% Polyamide (50% Wool, 30% Acrylic (121m/132yds/50g)
WYS Bo Peep 48% Nylon, 52% Wool (112m/122yds/50g)
Suppose you don’t want to use these, not a problem. Check out some more info about Yarn Substitution, or go completely off piste. You could use fluffy yarn, cotton yarn (for a light, summer crochet scarf), or acrylic would work brilliantly, too. Choose whatever you have in your yarn stash.
Making Granny Squares – How Many?!
This easy crochet scarf is all about the granny squares. If you know how to crochet granny squares, you can make this scarf. Or even if you don’t, try it as your beginner crochet project. I show you how to make granny squares (and the triangles) in the video tutorial.
The granny squares are on the diagonal, so the way to work out how long you want your scarf to be is to measure from corner to corner across the diagonal. Multiply that number by the number of squares you think will be right.
Is it the length you want? No? Add or take away one, two, three squares. Play around with the length. Make one that’s 8 or 9 squares long, make one that measures 30 feet!
The angled point necktie is a length of eight 3-round squares, plus the triangle ends. The long Aster granny square scarf with its symmetrical points is 14 squares long.
Making Crochet Granny Triangles. How Many?!
You also need to crochet granny triangles to straighten along the scarf edges. The number of granny triangles needed depends on the way you want the pointed ends to look. For the angled pointed scarf, you need double the quantity of triangles as granny squares.
For example, my Little angled point scarf has 8 squares and 16 triangles. However, if you’re planning on a symmetrical point at the ends of the scarf, it’s double the quantity plus one extra square. I.e, 9 squares and 16 triangles.
A Versatile Granny Scarf
You might have guessed by now that you can make plenty of simple adjustments to the Aster Granny Square Scarf so that you have something unique in your handmade wardrobe.
As mentioned above, the number of granny triangles you need depends on whether you want to end with an angled point or a symmetrical point. You can see from the photos that there are two options.
You can make it in any yarn fibre and you can make it in any length. You can even add more rounds to the squares and triangles to make them bigger. Not only do you have these options (don’t you just love how adaptable crochet is?!), you can also join the squares in different ways depending on your whims and ways…
JAYG Granny Square or Sewing With Mattress Stitch?
I have made four versions of the Aster Granny Square Scarf. Actually, five, including the headscarf. Because of the quick-fix crochet satisfaction, I much prefer the Join As You Go method. JAYG works brilliantly for grannies, and you can join scarf squares in an evening.
However, using a mattress stitch to sew granny squares together is the best way of joining for a neat sewing method. Sewing the squares together definitely takes longer, but not everyone likes JAYG, so it’s good to have a different technique to choose from.
When it comes to arranging the colour order of granny squares, I very rarely do anything other than follow my gut. I also make sure I have a fresh cup of tea, the TV remote and plenty of room to plan which squares sit next to which. The best course of action for a stash busting scarf like this is to not think about it too much!
Despite the photo above showing granny squares lined up on the sofa, I actually normally do this on the floor.
Easy Mini Bobble Crochet Edging
Once again, I want this project to be the ultimate in Mindful Crochet, so the mini bobble edging is quick and easy. You’ll find it timestamped in the video tutorial, so if you need a helping hand, you have it!
The Mini Bobble Stitch instructions: This stitch is worked on the wrong side of the scarf/headscarf Yo (yarn over), insert hook in st, yo and pull through, ch1 (3 loops on hook), yo, insert hook in same st, yo, pull through (5 loops on hook), yo, pull through all 5 loops on hook.
With the right side of the scarf facing you, join the yarn to any stitch. Round 1: Ch1, 2sc in bar of horizontal dc sts, 1sc in corner ch-sps of squares, 1sc in centre circles of triangles, 3sc in scarf end points, continue in pattern around, join with sl st to first st, turn. – I am not going to worry about stitch count for this, it just isn’t worth the bother, and if you’re a stitch or two out, does it matter?!
Round 2 (Wrong Side): *1 mini bobble, 2sl st; rep from * around, join with sl st. Fasten off and cut yarn.
Blocking Your Aster Granny Square Scarf
Blocking your crochet turns your work from OK to exceptional! It smooths out stitches and irons out wrinkles and potential warping. I highly recommend it. For my scarves, I chose to steam block them.
The moisture and heat from the steamer are enough to set the stitches beautifully. Steaming also doesn’t take as long as wet blocking, so if you’re in a hurry, it is perfect. A few hours of resting and Hey Presto!
Granny Square Scarves Forever!
If you would like to have all the details (and more) in one place (without the ads!), the PDF pattern is available for purchase from my Ravelry store, or you can also buy a copy (as well as my other crochet patterns) from my Etsy shop)
If you are looking for more Granny crochet inspiration, check out my Free Crochet Patterns. Let me know what you’re going to make next!
Have you been looking for a simple crochet faux I-Cord edging to finish off your crochet projects? Here’s one! I came up with it recently, as I really didn’t enjoy working with other fiddly techniques to create a knitlook I-cord.
Although it is very easy, and the written pattern is provided below, I have created a video tutorial for this simple crochet border, too, which you’ll also find below. Sometimes it helps to see things visually.
Duration: 1-3+ hours, depending on the size of your project.
Where to use the pattern: Shawls, blankets, hoods.
Double Slip Stitch Edging
A crochet faux I-cord edging is essentially a double slip stitch. This is a very simple stitch to work and involves working a slip stitch across two stitches. It’s easy peasy, I promise! By repeating just one stitch around and around in a few continuous spirals, the crochet fabric starts to curl in on itself.
After three or four rounds, the slip stitches, sitting on top of one another, begin to form knit look crochet. For this easy crochet faux I-cord edging, as more rounds are worked, the fabric curls into a tube. Voila!
When to Use a Crochet Faux I-Cord Edging
So far, I have used this double slip stitch edging in two projects, and it looks ace! The pictures in this post heavily represent my Cerberus shawl. That’s because it’s a new pattern and I made loads of these crochet shawls because I LOVE them!! The edging is modern and simple, it’s a win win!
The crochet faux I-cord is also a feature on a spanking new granny stripe balaclava I designed recently. This is so new that the pattern is only half written up, but it is a crochet design I very much want out in the world asap! Watch this space!
Both the Cerberus shawl and the granny balaclava have sections where you crochet in the round. That is when the crochet I-cord edging comes into its own. This border is specifically designed for working in the round, so if you have something in mind that’d work, add it and see how it transforms your crochet!
I think I’d like to try it around the top of a bag next; that would create a really modern look. Perhaps I might add it to a cowl design, or the cuffs on a pair of mittens? What would you add this double slip stitch edging to?
A Note on Using Contrasting Colours
In the neon Cerberus scarf, I used a contrasting colour for the crochet faux I-Cord edging. In the picture just below, you can see some neon yellow dashes. These are the back of the first round of slip stitches used in the scarf edging. It doesn’t bother me in the slightest. However, it might bother you. Let me share a little bit of info about using contrasting colours in this pattern.
In the neon shawl, I went around the outside using a matching colour from the main body of the pattern, a brown yarn. Usually, this is the neatest way of creating a border in crochet: matching the colour of the yarn. Yet, here, it means that the first row of slip stitches is visible.
So, you can change it to the method I used on the version of Cerberus I made with the vibrant pink edging (pictured below). Quite a simple change, really. I used the pink to crochet around the outside of the shawl, thus matching the border colour rather than the main body of the shawl. Hmm, it isn’t usually my fave method, but here, I think it works.
Is that me being super fussy? Or is it useful information? Sometimes details matter. I think it’s helpful to have an understanding of the difference.
Crochet Faux I-Cord Edging Pattern
The crochet faux I-cord edging is worked directly into a foundation round of simple single crochet stitches (that’s UK dc stitches). This foundation is crocheted around the main body of your project. Then the double slip stitch rounds are worked in a continuous spiral. It is the continuous spiral that creates the i-cord look.
How to Crochet the Double Slip Stitch (D sl st)
Instructions: *Insert hook in first st, yo & pull through (2 loops on hook), insert hook into next st, yo, pull through all loops; rep from * starting in st just used.
Let’s take a look at it used in a pattern.
Note that I have not included how to crochet the foundation round of single crochet stitches, as this will be different from project to project. However, work a round of single crochet stitches onto your chosen crochet WIP. This will be your foundation round. Turn your work to begin so that the edging curls over to hide the “wrong side” of those sc stitches.
Edging Pattern
Place a stitch marker to show beg of the round. Move this up when you come around to it each time. Rnd 1 (wrong side): Ch1, dsl st around, do not turn.
Rnds 1 – 4 (w/s): As Rnd 2, working in a continuous round. At the end of Rnd 4, work 1 sl st and fasten off.
Optional ( you don’t need to do this, but it looks very neat & tidy): The edging will have naturally curled to the “wrong” side. Secure it in place by sewing a few stitches around. To work a stitch, insert the darning needle through the front loop of Rnd 4, and then through the corresponding backside of a stitch on the foundation round. This is demonstrated at the end of the crochet I-cord video tutorial.
Interested in More Crochet Edging Inspo?
If you like this simple border, and you’re looking for more crochet edging inspiration, take a look at the patterns below. The Granny Triangle crochet shawl pattern and also, my Wayard Sisters shawl have a modern take on a scallop border. Or perhaps you fancy trying a simple crochet bobble border on this granny square blanket?!
If you fancy a break from some of your bigger crochet WIPs, or you need to dip your toe back into crojo waters, then this little corner to corner needle case is the ideal quick crochet project. This easy c2c project has been sat in the archives for a couple of years. I designed it for a specific publication but it was never chosen (standard stuff in the design game!).
I won’t mess about I’m just going to pop the crochet pattern down below. If you make this speedy DIY corner to corner needlecase, please do let me know, I really love seeing projects made from the designs I share. Other crochet freebies are HEREor you can get some of my more in depth patterns on Ravelry & Etsy
If this is a crochet c2c pattern you’ve enjoyed, please do think about supporting me by gifting a few quid on Ko-fi
C2C Crochet Needlecase Pattern
Please note that this crochet pattern is written in UK terms (Essentially, where it says tr, that’s a US dc, a UK DC is a US sc).
Things you need to crochet your corner to corner case: 3 mm hook, DK acrylic yarn, I used Stylecraft: 15g MC (Turquoise), 5g each CC 1 (Fuschia) & 2 (Lapis), A button, Felt: 11×16 cm approx, plus extra if making a pocket, Needle for sewing button and felt. Finished case measures approx: 7.5cm x 11cm
Row 1: With CC1 6ch, 1tr in 4th ch from hook, 1tr in next 2 sts, turn. [1 block]
Row 2: 6ch, 1tr in 4th ch from hook, 1tr in next 2 sts, sl st into the 3ch-sp of previous row, 3ch, 3tr into same 3ch-sp, turn. [2 blocks]
Row 3: 6ch, 1tr into 4th ch from hook, 1tr in next 2 sts, *sl st into next 3ch-sp of previous row, 3ch, 3tr in same 3ch-sp; rep from * to end, turn. [3 blocks etc]
Row 4 -8: Continue increasing as Row 3, change colour to MC at the end of row 4.
Row 9: Repeat Row 3, ending with 1sl st in the last 3ch-sp (ie. do not make the last block), turn.
Row 10: Sl st along the next 3 sts and into the first 3ch-sp, [3ch, 3tr] in same ch-sp, continue making blocks in each 3ch-sp to the end, turn.
Row 11: Rep row 9
Row 12: Rep row 10
Row 13 -19: Sl st along the next 3 sts and into the first 3ch-sp, [3ch, 3tr] in same ch-sp, continue making blocks, end with 1sl st into the last 3ch-sp, turn. Change to CC2 at the end of Row 15
To finish, sl st across the last 3 sts and into the corner, fasten off.
With right side facing, go around the edge of the work with dcs: 2dc in horizontal st, 1dc in each vertical tr, 3dc in each corner. At the centre of the right hand side, ch10 and join with a sl st and carry on with edging. Colour match as you go. Sew in ends. Sew on a button on the left hand side.
Hand stitch or glue felt to the inside. You could even add a little pocket!
You don’t need a coupon code, the discount is automatically applied to these specific patterns. The discount ends on the 17th of November, which is the last day of the CAL.
If you missed the original C2C CAL post then go HERE, you’ll find loads and loads of inspiration, stuff about rules (there aren’t many), and let’s not forget PRIZES!!
You can play with charts on Stitchfiddle.com (not an affiliate thing, I just like it)
Apres-Ski. A free pattern and tutorial
So, get c2c-ing and I’ll be doing the same. I have ideas for two projects, possibly three… I wonder if I can squeeze them all in!? What are you going to make? Get chatting over on the Ravelry thread where you can share your ideas and what you’re up to! Remember, you can make anything you like as long as it’s corner to corner! Let’s have 6 weeks of C2C fun!
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Geo C2C bags.
Free Pattern recipe for the Hotchpotch C2C bag.
Geo Rainbow bag
Off the Chart
Geo Rainbow Blanket
My favourite blanket, Havana Nights, claimed by my favourite girl.
Am I too early for crochet Easter egg shenanigans? Eh, I don’t think so. Do you remember the pretty little crochet eggsfrom a couple of years ago? They’ve gone and got themselves some new mates!
A couple of weeks ago, I got an email from Hobbycraftasking if I was interested in trying some yarn so that I could tell you about it. Seeing as spring is on the way, I thought it would be a nice idea to choose some yarn to make my amigurumi Easter eggs with. However, I didn’t want more eggs of the same size, so I’ve upped my game. I’ve gone large.
Yarn For Making Crochet Easter Eggs
This is the yarn I decided to try, The Women’s Institute acrylic dk. I wanted big Easter eggs this time, so I also chose the Soft & Chunky in Cream, which is an acrylic mix and has 30% merino. It’s lovely stuff to work with, I think merino is my favourite yarn in the world at the moment.
I also got some dk yarn in pretty spring colours to embroider the eggs with. A lighter yarn makes the embroidered decorations more delicate.
With two 100-gram balls of the chunky cream yarn, you can make three small eggs and one large. I weighed them before I added the embellishments, and a small one was 27 grams of yarn, whilst the large was 89 grams. I used exactly the same crochet pattern; I just doubled up on yarn for the biggy. By that, I mean I held the yarn double when working with it.
I’ve not used this yarn before, but I have used plenty of other DK acrylics. Mostly, I’m left unimpressed, and I have a thing where I don’t like mixing brands because the quality varies so much. Usually, they don’t pass muster, but I don’t think I’d have any qualms about mixing this with the likes of Stylecraft Special or Paintbox acrylic DK yarns (both of which are excellent to work with). This is one of the good ones. I have quite a bit of the dk left, so I might make a crochet blanket along with some other brands to really get a good feel for it (but not anytime soon, as I have got a massive list of other projects to do! Bah).
Anyway, on to the Easter Egg Crochet pattern…
Eeehh, look at the family all together!
Crochet Easter Egg Pattern
This pattern can be used with any weight of yarn, just make sure you use a hook size that will achieve nice, tight stitches (ie go down a couple of sizes than is recommended on the yarn label).
Notes & Things Needed To Crochet Easter Eggs
Women’s Institute Premium Acrylic Yarn DK in Yellow, Lime, Teal, Pink and Light Pink.
Women’s Institute Soft & Chunky in Cream x2 100g balls. This amount makes 1 large and three small eggs.
Polyfibre fill stuffing
Large eye darning needle
Fading ink pen (optional) – it helps to draw out where to put the flowers and leaves before you make the stitches.
For the small egg (approx 11cm tall) use a 4.5mm hook. For the large egg (approx 17cm tall), use a 7mm hook and two strands of the chunky held together.
Use two strands of the dk together for embroidering the large egg.
US terms are used in the pattern.
An Inc = increase. i.e., working 2 stitches in the same stitch.
A dec = decrease. Worked over 2 sts.
This pattern below is also found on my original blog post HERE. And last year, I recorded a video tutorial showing how to make and embroider the eggs.
Amigurumi Easter Egg
Round 1: 6sc into a Magic Ring. Round 2: Inc in each stitch around. [12 sts]. Round 3: *1sc in next stitch, inc in next; repeat from * around [18]. Round 4: Sc around. [18] Round 5: *1sc in next 2 sts, inc in next; repeat from * around. [24]. Rounds 6-7: Sc around [24] Round 8: *1sc in next 3 st, inc in next; repeat from * around [30]. Rounds 9-15: Sc around. [30] Round 16: *1sc in next 3 sts, dec; repeat from * around. [24]. Round 17: *1sc in next 2 sts, dec; repeat from * around. [18]. Round 18: *1sc in next st, dec; repeat from * around [12].
Fasten off, leaving a long tail, 40cm should be plenty. Add embroidered flowers using simple stitches. French knots make the flower centres, and the chain stitch makes petals, leaves and stems. Stuff firmly. To close your Crochet Easter Egg, thread through the front loops and pull tight to gather the stitches together. Stitch in and out a few times to fully secure and then snip the end neatly.
Please do let me know if you make some, I really would love to see. They make such cute spring decorations, and you could even tie pretty ribbon through the top to hang them in places!
And if you enjoyed making them, take a look at some of my other free crochet patterns.
