I had a chat with my Patronsthe other day and they agreed that it was worth me publishing this quickest of quick crochet patterns. If you fancy a break from some crazy big WIPs, or you need to dip your toe back into crojo waters, then this is the ideal speedy crochet project. This one has been sat in the archives for a couple of years. I designed it for a specific publication but it was never chosen (standard stuff in the design game!).
I won’t mess about I’m just going to pop it down below. If you make this speedy DIY needlecase, please do let me know, I really love seeing projects made from the designs I share. Other freebies are HEREor you can get more in depth patterns on Ravelry & Etsy
If this is a pattern you’ve enjoyed then please do think about jumping across toPatreonwhere (amongst other things) you get a say on the patterns I publish. Or perhaps you’d like to support me by giving a few quid on Ko-fi
Things you need:
*3 mm hook, *dk acrylic, I used Stylecraft: 15g MC (Turquoise), 5g each CC 1 (Fuschia) & 2 (Lapis), *A button, *Felt 11×16 cm approx, plus extra if making a pocket, *Needle for sewing button and felt.
* Written in UK terms (where it says tr, that’s a US dc, a UK DC is a US sc)
Finished case measures approx: 7.5cm x 11cm
Row 1: With CC1 6ch, 1tr in 4th ch from hook, 1tr in next 2 sts, turn. [1 block]
Row 2: 6ch, 1tr in 4th ch from hook, 1tr in next 2 sts, sl st into the 3ch-sp of previous row, 3ch, 3tr into same 3ch-sp, turn. [2 blocks]
Row 3: 6ch, 1tr into 4th ch from hook, 1tr in next 2 sts, *sl st into next 3ch-sp of previous row, 3ch, 3tr in same 3ch-sp; rep from * to end, turn. [3 blocks etc]
Row 4 -8: Continue increasing as Row 3, change colour to MC at the end of row 4.
Row 9: Repeat Row 3, ending with 1sl st in the last 3ch-sp (ie. do not make the last block), turn.
Row 10: Sl st along the next 3 sts and into the first 3ch-sp, [3ch, 3tr] in same ch-sp, continue making blocks in each 3ch-sp to the end, turn.
Row 11: Rep row 9
Row 12: Rep row 10
Row 13 -19: Sl st along the next 3 sts and into the first 3ch-sp, [3ch, 3tr] in same ch-sp, continue making blocks, end with 1sl st into the last 3ch-sp, turn. Change to CC2 at the end of Row 15
To finish, sl st across the last 3 sts and into the corner, fasten off.
With right side facing, go around the edge of the work with dcs: 2dc in horizontal st, 1dc in each vertical tr, 3dc in each corner. At the centre of the right hand side, ch10 and join with a sl st and carry on with edging. Colour match as you go. Sew in ends. Sew on a button on the left hand side.
Hand stitch or glue felt to the inside. You could even add a little pocket!
If you missed the original C2C CAL post then go HERE, you’ll find loads and loads of inspiration, stuff about rules (there aren’t many), and let’s not forget PRIZES!!
So, get c2c-ing and I’ll be doing the same. I have ideas for two projects, possibly three… I wonder if I can squeeze them all in!? What are you going to make? Get chatting over on the Ravelry thread where you can share your ideas and what you’re up to! Remember, you can make anything you like as long as it’s corner to corner! Let’s have 6 weeks of C2C fun!
Am I too early for Easter egg shenanigans? Eh, I don’t think so. Do you remember the pretty little crochet eggsfrom a couple of years ago? They’ve gone and got themselves some new mates!
A couple of weeks ago I got an email from Hobbycraftasking if I was interested in trying some yarn so that I could tell you about it. Seeing as spring is on the way I thought it would be a nice idea to choose some yarn to make my amigurumi Easter eggs with. However, I didn’t want more eggs of the same size so I’ve upped my game. I’ve gone large.
This is the stuff I decided to try, The Women’s Institute acrylic dk. I wanted big eggs this time so I also chose the Soft & Chunky in cream, which is an acrylic mix and has 30% merino. It’s lovely stuff to work with, I think merino is my favourite yarn in the world at the moment. I got some dk colours to embroider the eggs with so the decorations are more delicate.
With two 100 gram balls of the chunky cream, you can make three small eggs and one large. I weighed them before I added the embellishments and a small one was 27 grams whilst the large was 89 grams. I used exactly the same crochet pattern, I just doubled up on yarn for the biggy. By that, I mean I held the yarn double when working with it.
I’ve not used this yarn before but I have used plenty of other dk acrylics. Mostly I’m left unimpressed and I have a thing where I don’t like mixing my brands together because the quality varies so much. Usually they don’t pass muster but I don’t think I’d have any qualms about mixing this with the likes of Stylecraft Special or Paintbox (both of which, are excellent to work with). This is one of the good ones. I have quite a bit of the dk left so I might make blanket along with some other brands to really get a good feel for it (but not anytime soon as I have got a massive list of other projects to do! Bah).
Anyway, on to the pattern…
Eeehh, look at the family all together!
Crochet Easter Egg Pattern
This pattern can be used with any weight of yarn, just make sure you use a hook size that will achieve nice, tight stitches (ie go down a couple of sizes than is recommended).
Notes and things you need
The Women’s Institute Premium Acrylic Yarn DK in Yellow, Lime, Teal, Pink and Light Pink.
The Women’s Institute Soft & Chunky in Cream x2 100g gram balls. This amount makes 1 large and three small eggs.
Polyfibre fill stuffing
Large eye darning needle
Fading ink pen (optional) – it helps to draw out where to put the flowers and leaves before you make the stitches.
For the small egg (approx 11cm tall) use the 4.5mm hook. For the large egg (approx 17cm tall) use the 7mm hook and two strands of the chunky held together.
Use two strands of the dk together for embroidering the large egg.
Round 3: 1 sc in next stitch, 1 inc in next. Repeat around .
Round 4: Sc around. 
Round 5: 1sc in next 2 st, 1 inc in next. Repeat around. .
Round 6-7: Sc around 
Round 8: 1 sc in next 3 st, 1 inc in next. Repeat around .
Round 9-15: Sc around. 
Round 16: 1 sc in next 3 st, 1 dec. Repeat around. .
Round 17: 1 sc in next 2 st, 1 dec. Repeat around. .
Round 18: 1sc in next st, 1 dec. Repeat around .
Fasten off leaving a long tail, 40cm should be plenty. Add embroidered flowers using simple stitches. French knots make the flower centres and the chain stitch makes petals, leaves and stems. Stuff firmly. To close your Easter egg, thread through the front loops and pull tight to gather the stitches together. Stitch in and out a few times to fully secure and then snip the end neatly.
Please do let me know if you make some, I really would love to see. They make such cute spring decorations and you could even tie pretty ribbon through the top to hang them places!
Fancy a very quick and easy crochet project? Last summer I designed and made a fluffy chevron cowl (see pic below). Yesterday I made a smaller, non fluffy version. I made it when I was thinking about all things granny (I couldn’t wait for the Granny CAL! I just couldn’t!). This morning I filmed a short tutorial too. It’s now up on YouTube if you want to go and have a look!
You can find the original fluffier pattern Here. I made the new cowl a bit smaller as I was restricted by the amount of yarn I had: 200 grams of chunky alpaca/mulberry silk stuff I found for £8 a skein from last year’s Edinburgh Yarn Festival. The (impulsively bought) yarn had been sat waiting for nearly a year and I had no real idea about what to do with it for ages. Funny how something can jump out at you after all that time.
Righty, Some Pattern Details.
I used a 6mm hook for my chunky yarn.
The yarn I used was only 92 metres per 100g. I think other chunky yarns are usually a bit more than that. I used almost every bit so if you don’t have at least 184 meters of chunky then you might not make it to the end.
It measures approx 32×32 cm (12.5×12.5 inches). That’s a circumference of 64cm.
I chained 47 to begin, this gives you a total of 14 clusters per row
To make it bigger or smaller, add or subtract 6. That’s enough for a granny cluster for each side.
The pattern is written in UK terms. The video uses both UK and US terms but essentially all you need to know is that a UK treble is a US double.
3tr = cluster.
Feel feel to keep on going to make a bigger version. Why not turn this snug fitting cowl into a cosy infinity scarf?!
Crochet Cowl Pattern
Chain 47. Row 1: 3tr in 7th from hook, (miss 2 st, 3tr in next) six times, ch2, 3tr in next st, (miss 2 st, 3tr) six times, miss 2 st, 1 tr in last st. Turn.
Row 2: Ch3, (3tr in space between clusters) six times, (3tr, ch2, 3tr) in 2 chain space, (3tr in space between clusters) six times, 1tr in last st of row. Turn
Row 3 – 29: Rep row 2, changing colour every five rows.
Row 30: As row 2 but slip stitch to join to Row 1 between each cluster. Fasten off and sew in ends.
I hope you like it. I promise it’s super easy to make and can be made in a couple of hours (maybe less, I didn’t time it).
Jeepers, I’m not wearing make up on me peepers. Again!
Christmas is pretty much just around the corner, honestly, it’ll be here before you know it. I’ve noticed this year that crochet baubles are all the rage, so I’ve had a go at my own simple pattern. I’ve put together a tutorial for YouTube too, so if that’s more your thing then do jump across to my YouTube channel… Here is where you’ll find the crochet bauble video!
It’s always surprising just how quickly these work up and you will find yourself making loads and loads! The more the merrier with a crochet bauble. They look so good on a tree when there’s a gaggle of them (I’m not sure what the collective noun of a bauble should be so if you have any suggestions, let me know!).
Anyway, rather any further preamble, go get your decs out and get crocheting!
If you would like to support my crochet adventures, feel free to check out my other Free Patterns. Cheers! x
Things you need to Crochet Baubles
-6cm (diameter) baubles. Mine are from Sainsbury’s but I bought similar from Wilko’s last year. I think they’re a fairly standard bauble size.
-DK cotton in different colours. I’ve tried many brands and they’re all good: Paintbox, Drops, Dmc Natura, Stylecraft Classique etc…
Fasten off (FO) after each round and join the new colour with a ss (slip stitch) just to the right of where you fastened off.
If you want to avoid sewing in most ends, crochet over them as you go but it is worth sewing them in if you have the time and patience.
UK terms are used in the written pattern, I try to use both UK & US in the video. Things to remember are: a UK tr is a US dc. A UK dc is a US sc.
Make 2 of the pattern for each bauble.
Please read the whole pattern through before starting.
Crochet Bauble Pattern
Begin with a Magic Circle (or ch4 and join with a slip stitch).
Ch1, 1tr, ch1, *tr2tog, ch1; rep from * 5 times, join with a ss to the top of the first petal. [6 “petals”]
(Ch2, 1tr, ch1, tr2tog, ch1) in same space, (tr2tog, ch1, tr2tog, ch1) in each 1ch sp, join with a ss to the top of the first petal. [12 “petals”]
Ch3, 2tr in first ch sp, 3tr in each ch sp around, join to top of the ch3. [12 clusters]
Ch2, 1htr in each st around. [36 st]
Ch1, 1dc in each st around, join with ss.
Make two halves. Sew in the first and last ends. Do not FO after round 5 on the second half. Place both halves together, right sides out and ss together, facing loops only. Just over half way, wriggle the bauble into its jacket and continue to ss together. This can be fiddly but it’s worth it! Sew in last end, using it to tidy around the hanging bit of the bauble if you need to.
And the next instruction is to make several!! As I said earlier, with crochet baubles, in my opinion it’s a case of the more the merrier. And Christmas is always a time to be merry (and bright!).
Fancy giving it a go?! Please do give me a shout if you have found the pattern/tutorial useful. A thumbs up on YouTube helps too, I understand it gets more reach or some such thing. Thank you very much!
Also, please feel free to go ahead and share a link to this pattern. Sharing is truly marvellous! But I ask (really rather nicely, please, thank you, please) that you credit Zeens and Roger if you do. Thanks again.
It feels like this pretty crochet granny blanket has been in the making for aaaaggess. Relatively speaking that’s probably not true. I started it because I had leftovers from the Crazy Chevron blanket I made back in February. Trying (unsuccessfully) to reduce the stash has been the aim for quite a while. For this chap, a few colours were swapped depending on what there was most of in my “collection”. I only bought two balls extra.
If you watch my crochet podcast you’ll have heard me go on about this in nearly every single episode! I thought you guys might be interested in a blog post too and it’s a good idea to have all the info in one place. So here we are!
This colourful creation is now called Connie’s Blanket. I didn’t know when I started, that it would end up as a birthday present but at some stage or other it decided (not me), that that was what it was!
Connie’s Blanket is made up of 130 squares (10×13), which were Joined As You Go. The pattern and construction are similar to a blanket I made a few years ago. That one is nattily entitled Crochet Circles in a Square blanket. That blog post has links for all you need if you’re going to make a blanket like this. I’ll break it down here too…
Crochet Circle pattern. The difference in Connie’s blanket is that I used a magic ring to start each circle and I added no chains between the trebs (US dc’s) of the first round. Oh, and no double trebles on the joining round, just some trebs.
I used Stylecraft Special DK in the following colours: Duck Egg, Spring, Fondant, Fuschia, Shrimp, Lobelia, Apricot, Grey, Kelly, Cloud, Mustard, Wisteria,
I made all the inner circles first (well, most of them – I kept adding more when I saw I had enough yarn for more rows), then evenly distributed those between the shades. I haven’t checked but I reckon they’re all unique.
The border is dead simple. Three rounds of Grannies, 1 row of trebles and a scallop edge. To jazz up the edge a bit more I ended up doing this: Starting in a dip: *(ch2, 1dc after next treble) x4, ch2, 1ss in the dip between scallops; rep from *. I think that’s right but give me a shout if it’s weird!
And that’s pretty much it. Blankets like these are one of my favourite things to crochet. I don’t know why, they just are! What about you? How do you get on with granny blankets?! I know some people think they’re naff and old fashioned but I can’t help but love em!
Coming up to February, hearts are everywhere. I get it, love is in the air and all that but what if you don’t want to get all schmaltzy and saccharine about it?! This is my answer: crochet a broken one! I’ve come up with a corner to corner graphgan design that’s cute but not pukey, how great is that?! To make your own crochet heart, read on…
I chose neon pink (almost impossible to photograph by the way) and a light grey aran yarn. I was all set to go for a blue background colour until I found out I didn’t have enough. This pattern needs two balls of the grey and one of neon pink, with just a scrap of blue for the shiney reflection.
I recently learned about a website called Stitch Fiddle. It’s brilliant! You can make you own designs for knitting, cross stitch and crochet. It’s free to do the basic stuff but I’m tempted to sign up for the fancier version. You get fifteen freebies; after that you have to pay. I haven’t used it to do crochet diagrams yet but I’m probably headed that way. Anyway, I’m not here to sell their stuff. I shall move on…
Above is the graphgan to use. I think it can be printed off if you save it as a document, then you can mark off the squares as you go. I started in the bottom right corner. I can directly tweet and pin from Stitch Fiddle, so I’ll do that in a minute in case it’s somehow easier or better quality. Go to my contact page for the links to those.
Things you’ll need:
2x balls of background colour, 1x ball for heart, a few metres of a third colour.
4.5mm hook. (If you have a particularly loose tension, try a 4mm).
1x 50cm cushion, 1x 50cm cushion cover.
Sewing needle (not as giant as a darning needle but big enough to squeeze the yarn through, it needs to go through the cushion cover).
Before you begin, the first thing you need to do is separate out about 20 grams of the grey yarn, this will be the ball you use to work between the two heart pieces. The thing about making graphgans is that you need a ball/bobbin for each section of colour. I had three grey and two pink balls being worked at the same time (I wound a separate ball of the pink yarn too, just under half). It’s not as tricky as it sounds, I promise. It’s very hard to explain but very easy to do! As long as you know how to Corner to Corner, this is really simple to achieve.
I learned how to do a C2C from a pattern I got from Ravelry but I’ve found this video by Bella Coco, which I wished I’d seen at the time!
I kept all my workings on one side (it’s a cushion, they’re not going to show). To avoid lots of these, make sure you keep one ball of pink for one heart half, and the other, for the other. There are a couple of places where the yarn would be carried over too many blocks if you didn’t split the yarn and that might look messy. If you look too closely at the picture above you can see where I broke that rule. Just don’t look.
Pin your finished piece to the front of a cushion cover. Pin the four corners first, then add a couple more pins inbetween. I found my cushion cover from Amazon, it was about £3, which is better than the £4.50 it would have cost to buy two more balls of yarn to do a plain c2c back, and more time efficient. Woohoo for saving time and money!
Stitch it on. The ends can be woven in when it’s finished.
Keep the stitches as close to the edge as possible.
Finished! A giant cushion! I wonder what size a DK version would look like…
Let me know what you think. Do tell me if you make one, I would absolutely love to see. Please feel free to make as many as you like but the pattern/design belongs to me so please do not make to sell or sell the pattern. Thanks.
I was working out the design for my recent crochet wrist warmers pattern; playing with different methods and whatnot, when this one popped up. It’s basically front post and back post stitches, which ended up being too bulky for the mitts but still had something I liked. It is such an easy crochet pattern, it only takes fifteen/twenty minutes from start to finish.
If you’ve not tried Front Post or Back Post stitches before, it’s a great pattern for practising. These stitches are much easier than they sound. They’re the same as normal, it’s just where you put your hook that counts. There are countless You Tube videos out there that demonstrate beautifully.
I’m not sure if this is a crochet cuff, bracelet or other thing but whatever it is, (seeing as it’s Christmas) here’s a lovely little free crochet pattern for them!
Notes: I’ve used Paintbox Aran (I used up loads of my old Stylecraft Special dk this year and allowed myself a restock of something new!!) with a 4.5mm hook.
I’ve used UK terms with US terms in brackets.
In Row 2 I work under the bumps of the foundation chain. This makes a neater finish but it does mean it looks twisty when you come to slip stich together. Ignore the twist and join anyway, it won’t be noticed in the final piece. Just double check that you’ve not got a twist in the stitches you’re going to work into next.
Crochet over the ends as you go to allow for minimal stitching at the end.
Row 1: Chain 24 (I have wrists like twigs, you may need to go up to 26 or 28 stitches). Join with a slip stitch.
Row 2: Ch1 (does not count as a st), dc (US sc) in each st around. Join with a slip stitch to the first st. Fasten off. 
Row 3: Attach new colour to any stitch. Ch3 (counts as a st), 1tr (USdc)in each st around. Join to the top of the inital ch3. 
Row 4-6: Ch2 (does not count as a st), FPtr (US FPdc) in st at the base of the ch2, BPtr (US BPdc) in next st, *FPtr in next st, BPtr in next st. Repeat from* to the end. Slip st to the top of the first FPtr. Fasten off after row 6. 
Row 7: Attach new colour to any st. Ch1 (does not count as a st). 1dc (US sc) in each st around. Join with a slip stitch the the first st. Fasten off and sew in any ends. 
And there you have it. Easy peasy! Now go and crochet loads of cuffs, bracelets, sweat bands, whatever they are!
Happy Christmas! See you in the New Year. 2017 is going to be amazing!! X
I’ve made another shawl. I couldn’t help myself. When I saw Drops yarn on sale the weekend before last, I had to buy some. It was for research purposes; I wanted to try out my granny triangle shawl pattern again. Take a look on Etsy, it’s for sale!
My original pattern is good and wintery. This time however, I wanted something with more of a drape. I chose Drops Baby Merino this time (it’s 4 ply) and added a chain between each cluster. I’d not used it before and I’m already using it again (another shawl pattern)! I like it, it’s good.
I thought the colours were a bit more summery and the drapey 4 ply would make it less stifling for the season. I’m really quite pleased. I used a 3.25mm hook.
I was very well behaved because I actually managed to block it. A cheats method of blocking but blocking nevertheless. I pinned it out directly on to the carpet (whilst I was watching the telly) and sprayed it with water. Just enough to lightly dampen it. I left it for a few hours and to make sure it was dry, I got the hair dryer on it. I wouldn’t advocate this method because somewhere along the line I will no doubt, end up ruining something.
I love the simple edging. It’s not hard to do. I changed the colour sequence as I didn’t want to buy loads of different balls just to do a couple of rows of each colour. It still is essentially the same thing as the original. It’s four 50gram balls of the green and one each of the other two.
Even though it was something I made up, I forgot how to do the edging so I dutifully followed my own pattern. It worked too (but I shouldn’t let on that I was surprised, of course it worked!). I should confess that I did have to bodge the corner/point. By adding the chains between clusters it changed from multiples of three to multiples of four. I had a skip a stitch here and there whilst making the scallops so that the middle cluster actually ended up in the middle. It’s not noticeable. Promise.
The blocking definitely added to the drapey quality. It has also made the wool feel softer.
I took many many pictures, but sadly none of me wearing it this time. Shame. I got distracted by the cat. And then I started taking photos of other things around the room.
Plants aside, I’ve got some pictures of the cat…
Whenever something woolly comes out she decides it’s somewhere she wants to be. Good old Marceline (not that old, she’s only turning one sometime toward the end of the month).
EDIT:: Hold your horses!! Before you read on, you might like me to direct you to the updated version, which is a far more straight forward pattern with pretty much the same results. GO HERE for the written pattern. And go HERE to YouTube for the video tutorial. Ta! x
The first anniversary of my blogging ways today. That went quickly! Yay me! I’ve enjoyed all of it so far. I’ve learned so much and (conversely) haven’t learned anything at all! I wasn’t sure what it would be like and have been pleasantly surprised. I wonder what the following year will bring!?
In celebration of this momentous occasion (and it totally is momentous) I’m sharing a pattern of mine.
I’ve made a couple of mesh bags before but they required more than just one ball of yarn. I didn’t want loads of balls/skeins rolling about everywhere and I didn’t want to spend loads of money. Crochet can be an expensive hobby! This isn’t a tutorial as I didn’t take many pictures of the making process. I forgot. I remembered in time for the handle making stage, so I have some pics of that part. There is also a delightful diagram I’ve spent aaages drawing. It’s there to help with the end of rounds. I found it tricky to word the pattern for those bits!
It’s a deceptively good size bag. When I was making it I was unsure there’d be much point in it but you can actually fit loads in there!
I used Rico Essentials cotton dk in Emerald and a 3mm hook. At the end I had approximately a metre left. Your tension will probs be different to mine and if you’re worried about running out of cotton, you could skip a round or make the handle shorter. This yarn is lovely to use and I want more!!
Crochet Mesh Bag.
The pattern is written in UK terms.
Start with a magic ring (or ch4 and join with a slip stitch).
Round 1: Ch3, 11tr into ring. Join to third ch of initial 3 ch with a slip stitch. Pull the magic ring tight to secure. [12st]
Round 2: Ch3, 1 tr into same stitch. 2 tr into each space. Join to third ch of initial 3 ch with a slip stitch. [24st]
Round 3: Ch3, *2tr in next stitch, 1 tr in next* around, ending with 2tr in last st. [36st]
Round 4: Ch1, 1dc in same st. *ch3, skip 1 stitch, 1dc in next* around until the second to last st (stitch). At this point, ch1 and make a half tr into beginning dc. (Have a look at the diagram to see how to join rounds at the end. Bear in mind that it’s just a section of the round, showing the important bit. Placing a stitch marker on the last stitch of each row from here will help) [18 ch sp].
Round 5: *Ch4, 1dc in next ch sp* around until second to last ch sp. Ch2, 1htr into the top of the last st of the previous round (ie into the top of the htr of previous round).
Round 6: *ch5, 1dc in next ch sp* around until second to last ch sp. Ch2, 1tr into the top of the last st of the previous round.
Round 7: *ch6, 1dc in next ch sp* around until second to last ch sp. Ch3, tr into the top of the last st of the previous round.
Round 8-9: *Ch7, 1dc in next ch sp* around until second to last ch sp. Ch3, 1double tr into the top of the last st of the previous round.
Round 10: Three increases will be made at even intervals in this round. *Ch7, 1dc in next ch sp, ch4, 1 dc in same ch sp. (Ch7, 1dc in next ch sp) x 5. Repeat from * two more times, finishing before the last ch7. Instead, Ch3, 1double tr into the top of the last st of the previous round. [21ch sp]
Round 11-12: *Ch7, 1dc in next ch sp* around until second to last ch sp. Ch3, 1double tr into the top of the last st of the previous round.
Round 13-20: Ch8, 1dc in next ch sp* around until second to last ch sp. Ch4, 1double tr into the top of the last st of the previous round.
Round 21 : Same as round 7.
Round 22 : Same as round 6.
Round 23: ch1, 1dc in same stitch. 4dc in each ch sp, 1 dc in top of each dc of previous round. Ss into first dc.
Round 24-25: Ch1, 1 dc in same space. Dc around. Ss into first dc.
Handle stage now…
Row 1: Ch1, 1dc in same space, 1 dc in next 7st. Ch1, turn. 
Row 2: Dc along the next 8 stitches. Ch1, turn.  repeat row 2 until desired handle length or when nearing the end of the yarn (I made my handle approx 18″).
Turn your bag inside out. To attach the handle to the other side of the bag, first count how many stitches are around the top of the bag. I had 100 stitches. You want your handles to be in the middle, I counted 42 stitches along from the right side of my handle and the next stitch (see pic below) was where I started to attach the other end of the handle. Make sure there are no twists in your handle!
The hook should be on the right side. If it isn’t, make another row or take one away.
Ch1. Insert hook through first stitch on handle and the chosen stitch on the other side of the bag (see pic below). Yarn over and pull through all loops/stitches. Repeat for the last 7 stitches, leaving out the initial ch1. Fasten off and sew ends in securely. Finished!
Make sure to sew the ends in really well.
This hasn’t been tested and I only made one bag (frogged it a few times in the process) so if you spot something that doesn’t make sense, or I’ve made a mistake, please let me know. This is mostly a way for me to practice pattern writing. I’m not a professional, it took blinkin’ ages and it’s free! Useful feed back here would be gratefully received. Thanks.
Having said that, if it does work, please don’t then publish this pattern without my permission, please don’t pinch the pattern to sell and if you want to make the bags to sell, please give me loads of credit. And I mean loads. And send me a message to say what you’ve been up to. Ta very much!