Tag: handmade

Barking Mad – A Houndstooth Stitch Scarf

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Easy Crochet Scarf. Houndstooth stitch scarf pattern from Zeens and Roger

Crochet Houndstooth Scarf

I LOVE the crochet Houndstooth Stitch and doesn’t it look great in a scarf?!! It is an all-time favourite that deserves to be visited on a regular basis. In fact, one day I should write a love letter to it, it’s that good. And by love letter, I mean a blog post of its very own, a dedication to my love of the Houndstooth stitch!

It is such a simple crochet stitch pattern; just two basic little stitches. When you introduce two colours, on top of each other in tidy rows, a little bit of magic happens. It’s so pretty! US single and double crochets (AKA UK double and treble crochets) sit together in pairs to replicate the classic textile of the same name.

Depending on which side you look at the fabric, one colour will dominate and that’s one of the things that makes it such a delight.

This crochet houndstooth stitch scarf pattern is part of a set that’s not yet released. Together, they will be henceforth known as Barking Mad. I am not sharing it all today. I am saving the rest for a later date. On the horizon are a couple of other accessories that will join this awesome crochet scarf pattern.

I made the Barking Mad scarf a few weeks ago but have not had the time to show it off. Instagram tells me that I was working on it in November 2024! Feels like ages ago!

Due to a busy December and a surprisingly busy January too, I haven’t been able to publish it. I am still struggling for time so the rest of the Barking Mad set will be released in a few weeks. Probably to coincide with the weather getting nicer, typical!

Houndstooth Crochet Scarf – The Yarn.

To make your own easy crochet houndstooth stitch scarf, you need two colours of yarn. To make it extra special, I introduced a lace-weight mohair yarn to hold with two indie-dyed skeins of sock-weight yarn.

This weekend is the Unravel Yarn Festival in Farnham and funnily enough, I purchased both of the main yarns at the festival. Each skein weighs 100 grams. The beautiful blue is a yarn I bought from Spectrum Fibre at Unravel in 2019. The label tells me it is a Twisted Sock (love a high twist yarn!!) called Little Blue Dress. Then, I went again last year and bought a skein from Bona Yarns called Mostisky. I think that’s the name. That one isn’t a high twist but when paired with the mohair, you can’t tell that they are a different yarn base.

In stash, I had mohair to closely match both shades. Seeing as mohair normally comes in 25 gram balls, I needed two balls of each colour (typically, for every 50g of sock or fingering weight yarn, you need 25g of lace-weight mohair. Most of the time I use Drops Kid Silk mohair as it is reasonably priced.

If you have never used fluffy yarn to crochet with, read my top tips for using mohair here. It is one of my favourite things to do to achieve beautiful crochet makes.

You do not have to use mohair with your chosen yarn. This Houndstooth stitch scarf will look fabulous in most yarns. I think a Merino DK yarn would be awesome and I want to make one soon. Just make sure you use the appropriate sized hook for the yarn you choose. (For a DK, that would most likely be a 4mm crochet hook).

Barking Mad. Houndstooth Stitch Scarf

Special Crochet Stitches

There are a couple of things that you will find useful when following the scarf pattern. Here are some special crochet stitches that I use.

Stacked Start (SSt) – How to Start the Crochet Rows:

This is instead of starting rows by chaining, it avoids that pesky hole at the ends of the fabric. So much better than chaining 3!
Here is how to crochet a Stacked Start: Insert hook in first st, yarn over [yo] and pull through, yo and pull through both loops on hook (it helps to gently pinch the st at this point to make the next stage easier), *insert hook in left leg of the st (the pinch helps the back loop to become looser and more visible), yo and pull through, yo and pull through both loops; rep one more time from *.
Watch this crochet video for a Stacked Start (time stamp 5:12). Note that for this houndstooth stitch scarf I did not bother working in the loop behind. 

US dc3tog / UK Tr3tog (a decrease):

Yo hook, insert hook into first st, yo & pull through (3 loops on hook), yo, pull through 2 loops, yo, insert into next st, yo & pull through (4 loops on hook), yo, pull through 2 loops (3 loops on hook), yo, insert into next st, yo & pull through 2 loops, yo and pull through all loops.

(Stacked) Beg of Row US dc3tog / UK tr3tog:

Insert hook in first st, yo and pull through, yo and pull through both loops on hook (it helps to gently pinch the st at this point to make the next stage easier), insert hook in left leg of the st and the loop behind it (the pinch helps the back loop to become looser and more visible), yo and pull through (2 loops on hook), yo and insert hook into next st, yo and pull through (4 loops on hook), yo and pull through 2 loops (3 loops on hook), yo and insert hook in next st, yo and pull through (5 loops on hook), yo and pull through 2 loops (4 loops on hook), yo and pull through all loops.

This decrease to start rows is demonstrated in the same video as linked above. Watch from 9:40.

Barking Mad Houndstooth Stitch Scarf Pattern

Oky poky, you want to crochet this easy peasy crochet scarf? If, like me, you are using two pretty coloured sock-weight yarns held with mohair, reach for a 3.75mm hook.

Note that it is a lot easier to use a couple of stitch markers at the beginning and end of rows. Move them up each row. I often don’t bother with them but here, I found the decrease stitches a bit tricksy to see so a stitch marker identifies exactly where the first and last stitches of a row are. PM means place marker. MM means move marker.

Also, note that you want to carry the yarn so you don’t have to sew in loads of ends. What that means is you crochet over the non-working yarn as you go. Gently give it a little tug every now and then so it’s not too loose. But don’t pull so tight that it scrunches up your scarf. Keep the tension even.

To change colour, pull it through on the last yarn over of the previous row. Then you are ready to start the next row with the new colour.

Houndstooth Scarf Pattern

As the instructions are quite brief, below are separate patterns for US and UK crochet terminology. I assume you know the more standard terms. Special stitches are above, you have scrolled past them….

Crochet Scarf Pattern US terms

With YA, make a magic ring or ch3 and join with sl st.
Row 1: (1SSt, 2dc) into the ring, turn. – [3 sts]
2: (1SSt, 2dc) in first st, 1dc in next st, 3dc in last st, turn. – [7 sts]
3: With YB, (1SSt, 2dc) in first st, 1sc in next st, *1dc, 1sc; rep from * to last st, 3dc in last st, turn. – [11 sts]
4: With YA, (1SSt, 1dc, 1sc) in first st, 1dc in next st, *1sc, 1dc; rep from * to last st, (1sc, 2dc) in last st, turn. – [15 sts]
5- 15: Rep Rows 3 & 4 ending with Row 3. – [59 sts]
16: With YA, (1SSt, 1dc, 1sc) in first st, 1dc in next st, *1sc, 1dc; rep from * to last 3 sts, dc3tog, turn.
17: With YB, Beg of Row dc3tog, PM, 1sc in next st, *1dc, 1sc; rep from * to last st, 3dc, turn.
18- 128: Rep Rows 16 & 17, ending with Row 16. – [59 sts]
129: With YB, Beg of Row dc3tog, PM, 1sc in next st, *1dc, 1sc; rep from * to last 3 sts, dc3tog, turn. – 55 sts.
130: With YA, Beg of Row dc3tog, PM, 1dc in next st, *1sc, 1dc; rep from * to last 3 sts, dc3tog, turn – [51 sts].
131 – 141: Rep Rows 129 & 130, ending with Row 129 – [7 sts]
142: With YA, Beg of Row dc3tog, – [3sts]
143: Beg of Row dc3tog.
Fasten off and cut yarn.

Crochet Scarf Pattern UK terms

With YA, make a magic ring or ch3 and join with sl st.
Row 1: (1SSt, 2tr) into the ring, turn. – [3 sts]
2: (1SSt, 2tr) in first st, 1 tr in next st, 3tr in last st, turn. – [7 sts]
3: With YB, (1SSt, 2tr) in first st, 1dc in next st, *1tr, 1dc; rep from * to last st, 3tr in last st, turn. – [11 sts]
4: With YA, (1SSt, 1tr, 1dc) in first st, 1tr in next st, *1dc, 1tr; rep from * to last st, (1dc, 2tr) in last st, turn. – [15 sts]
5- 15: Rep Rows 3 & 4 ending with Row 3. – [59 sts]
16: With YA, (1SSt, 1tr, 1dc) in first st, 1tr in next st, *1dc, 1tr; rep from * to last 3 sts, tr3tog, turn.
17: With YB, Beg of Row tr3tog, PM, 1dc in next st, *1tr, 1dc; rep from * to last st, 3tr, turn.
18- 128: Rep Rows 16 & 17, ending with Row 16. – [59 sts]
129: With YB, Beg of Row tr3tog, PM, 1dc in next st, *1tr, 1dc; rep from * to last 3 sts, tr3tog, turn. – 55 sts.
130: With YA, Beg of Row tr3tog, PM, 1tr in next st, *1dc, 1tr; rep from * to last 3 sts, tr3tog, turn – [51 sts].
131 – 141: Rep Rows 129 & 130, ending with Row 129 – [7 sts]
142: With YA, Beg of Row tr3tog, – [3sts]
143: Beg of Row tr3tog.
Fasten off and cut yarn.

Blocking Your Crochet

I think blocking your crochet is important and adds extra impact. It neatens up the fabric and sets the stitches. All I did to block this scarf was to pin it out on the blocking mats and run a bit of steam over the top of it. Once it was dry, the drape was immense!

Eh, a houndstooth stitch scarf may not require the attention of blocking but I do think it is worth the extra effort to ensure you get the best out of your crochet.

Houndstooth Stitch Scarf crochet pattern with mohair yarn

Keep scrolling for a sneak peek at one of the other Barking Mad accessories.

Houndstooth stitch scarf crochet pattern

And that’s it! What do you think? I really hope you like this crochet houndstooth stitch scarf as I think it’s an absolute doozy!! And if you like my crochet work, have you checked out my other free crochet patterns?

Easy Crochet Earmuffs

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Crochet earmuffs and a crochet sweater!

Granny Stitch Circles

I get very cold and hurty ears at this time of year and so, to combat the chill, I have made myself some easy crochet earmuffs! This pattern is a very quick make and was inspired by my recent free crochet pattern for a granny stripe hat. It uses exactly the same pattern to begin.

Just before I cancelled Amazon Prime a couple of weeks ago, I hastily bought a couple of cheap pairs of fluffy earmuffs as I knew they’d be great for satisfying my urge for this quick-fix crochet project. This earmuffs pattern is also a great yarn stashbuster (I do love a stash buster!).

The only problem I have had so far is getting my choice of yarn colours right. I have been torn between all the possible combinations. It is so difficult to choose favourites sometimes! However, I had to draw a line in the sand and just make them. But, the nature of this design, is that you can make several pairs and swap them over depending on your mood. A crochet win!

My ears are toasty warms in crochet earmuffs!

Crochet Earmuffs Free Pattern

What Yarn? What Crochet Hook? What Else Do I Need?

Right, to make your own crochet earmuffs, you only need a few scraps of double-knit yarn. I used a 3.75mm hook rather than the usual 4mm I use for dk yarn as you want to make sure the stitches aren’t too loose.

I have loads of dk yarn in my stash; lots of little balls to use up. In this case, the yarn could be any brand, it’s a mix of all sorts. But generally speaking, I prefer to use merino yarn or an acrylic merino blend. For a speedy crochet pattern such as this, it doesn’t really matter.

You will need some shop-bought earmuffs. The ones I bought were sold in two-packs and under a tenner for both pairs. They fit me, an arguably grown-up woman with an average-sized head.

You will also need two 30cm / 12-inch lengths of thin elastic, two circles of fabric measuring around 20cm / 8 inches, and a darning needle.

Now, if you want to be really precise, you should also get some elastic to gather the fabric too but I didn’t have enough elastic left for that. It would be neater and easier if you did…

Things you need to make granny crochet earmuffs

Crochet Video Tutorials

The written crochet pattern for earmuffs is below but check out this video for How to crochet a large granny square. Watch from 2:25 to see me demonstrate the first few rounds. Whilst it’s for a different thing, both projects start the same way. Round 3 is ever so slightly different in the tutorial but it achieves the same result. You actually hear me dither about changing how I’m going to do that round in the video!

UK Crochet Abbreviations

Please don’t be put off by the UK terminology. We’re talking granny stitch here and you all know that that’s a trio of US double crochet stitches. Whenever you see me write “treble”, it’s a US double. Everything else is the same.

beg = beginning, ch = chain, ch-sp = chain space, clu = cluster, st(s) = stitch(es), sp(s) = space(s), sl st = slip stitch,
sttr = standing treble start, tr = treble, rep = repeat, yrh = yarn round hook.

Special Crochet Stitches

Beg tr2tog:
This is used at the beginning of Rnd 1 to work the first “petal”. It uses the same principle as a Stacked start. See the video for the large granny square tutorial linked above. 

Insert hook in circle, yrh and pull through, yrh and pull through both loops on hook (it helps to gently pinch the st at this point to make the next stage easier), insert hook in left leg of the st and the loop behind it (the pinch helps the back loop to become looser and more visible), yrh and pull through, (2 loops on hook), yrh and insert hook into the circle, yrh and pull through (4 loops on hook), yrh and pull through 2 loops, yrh and pull through 3 loops. 

Standing tr start (sttr):
This is instead of starting rounds by chaining 3, it looks much tidier than a 3-chain and it’s fun to do! This method is perfect when changing colour at the beginning of rows/rounds:

Yrh three times and hold loops on hook with forefinger, insert hook in sp/st, yrh and pull through, [yrh and pull through 2 loops] twice. 
Let go of the yarn wrapped around your hook. First treble stitch made.

crochet earmuffs, a free pattern from zeens and roger

Pattern for Crochet Earmuffs

Feel free to chain 5 and join with a sl st (you’ll see this shown in the video tutorial linked in Special Stitches above). But, I think using a Magic Circle is valid here. Better, in fact. Start however you like though!

UK Terms
Rnd 1: 1Beg tr2tog, ch2, *tr2tog, 2ch: rep from * 6 more times, join with a sl st into the 1st 2ch-sp. Fasten off & cut yarn. – 8 “petals”

2: Attach new yarn with 1sttr in any 2ch-sp, 2tr in same sp, 1ch, *3tr in next 2ch-sp, 1ch; rep from * 6 more times, join with a sl st into the top of the sttr. Fasten off & cut yarn.

3 (Inc): Attach new yarn with 1sttr in any 1ch-sp, (1tr, 1ch, 2tr) in same sp, *(2tr, 1ch, 2tr) in next 1ch-sp; rep from * 6 more times, join with a sl st into the top of the sttr. Fasten off & cut yarn.

4: Attach new yarn with 1sttr in any 1ch-sp, 2tr in same sp, miss 2 sts, 3tr, *miss 2 tr, 3tr in next 1ch-sp, miss 2 sts, 3tr; rep from * around join with a sl st into the top of the sttr. Fasten off & cut yarn. -16 clu

5 & 6: Attach new yarn with 1sttr in any sp between clusters, 2tr in same sp, *3tr in next sp; rep from * around join with a sl st into the top of the sttr. Fasten off, cut yarn and sew in ends. 

Ok, now for the fun bit…

Turn Crochet Granny Circles into Earmuffs!

So, you can leave a long tail and use that to gather and secure the crochet to the ear muff. But it’s then more permanently fitted. If you add a little bit of elastic around the outer edge of the crochet circle and tie it closed, you can make the crochet covers removable. You can then make loads of different coloured crochet ear muff covers to swap over whenever you fancy a change!

hazards of making crochet earmuffs
See the sticky-out fluff in the muff?!

This is the point where you need the round scrap of fabric. What happens if you don’t have fabric? You can go without if you’d rather but the fluff on my muff burst through the granny holes! Oh dear. Use fabric as a barrier between the fluff and the crochet. As you know, I didn’t have enough elastic to gather the fabric but I would recommend this step. If you going to, you could use either thread or shirring elastic.

To add the elastic to the crochet granny circles you’ve made, thread the length in and out between the stitches, all the way around the outer edge. Tie the ends together in a knot and it’s ready to pop snuggly around your muff! Add the fabric layer first.

Voila! How quick are these crochet earmuffs!!?

If your muffs are a different size, you may want to fiddle around to make the crochet covers bigger or smaller, but that’s all part of the fun.

Me in my crochet earmuffs

If you like this free crochet pattern, take a look at what else I have on offer. My free crochet patterns can be found HERE!

Thanks for reading, cheers! x

Granny Stripe Hat Pattern

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Crochet A Granny Stripe Hat

This is such a quick granny stripe hat to crochet, the main stripes of granny clusters are worked up lickety-split! The “knit-look” crochet ribbing, whilst it takes a little longer to crochet than other rib-effect stitches, it creates a soft, squishy texture and a superb elastic stretch. It is very much worth the effort for a fantastic final result.

This hat was born from a summer version that, so far, I have refused to release as a pattern. I made several prototypes but I just didn’t like it. I am not a fan of summer hats and I wondered what would happen if I concentrated my efforts on a design that I would appreciate more.

A woolly warm, winter crochet hat is far more appealing than a cotton bucket hat. Thus, here we have a granny stripe hat that’s perfect for winter! Today, I thought I would share the pattern below. You can also purchase an ad-free version in my Ravelry store and I also have copies for sale on Etsy. The paid version also includes an additional chart.

For 25% off the paid version until the end of the year, use the code: GRANNYHAT at the checkout.

Free Crochet Pattern. Granny Stripe hat

What You Need To Crochet Your Granny Stripe Hat

To make your hat you will need a 4mm hook (US G-6). Or a hook size that meets gauge (more info below). I know you’ll be tempted not to bother with gauge as this is just a hat but if you notice that you are wildly off, please check!

You will also need 100g of Double Knit (DK) yarn. This can be all one colour, or mix it up for a multicoloured fun fest. Just under 50g is required for the brim, which is all in one colour.

And, if you fancy, add a pompom for a finishing touch. I bought cheap ones from a local garden centre. I was too lazy to make a pompom this time around. Plus, these shop bought ones are super light and don’t pull on the hats. I hadn’t thought about that before.

This is a DK Yarn Crochet Hat

I tried a few different yarn brands and made four different hats for my experiments. I also had a handful of awesome testers who tried a few more yarns too. From looking at the super important crochet hat making data, the outcome is that a standard DK weight creates the best results.

I was initially foxed by the first yarn brand I tried as their “DK” weight was very plump and it tricked me into thinking a worsted would work for the pattern I’d come up with. Whilst you certainly could get away with a worsted weight yarn if you reduced the increases, for the sake of uniformity, DK is the best yarn for the job here.

If you would like to find out more about yarn substitution, please go HERE. It is a one-stop post that’ll provide an overview of all your yarn subbing queries.

Granny Stripe hat pattern
Zeens and Roger

A Perfect Stash Busting Granny Hat

In the end, I used a blend of a couple of different DK weight yarns and made an awesome dent in my yarn stash.

In my stash, I had leftovers of King Cole Majestic and West Yorkshire Spinners Bo Peep. They are both a teensy bit different in yardage but once I was crocheting, it didn’t make a difference. My granny stripe hats look great with a mix of colours and brands. However, both the yarns are a merino/acrylic blend so have a very similar feel to them.

I don’t know the exact yardage for each stripe but when wound up in a ball, we’re talking the size of a large walnut. Take a quick look at the picture below (the one with me in my scruffy jimjams and the cat). To the left are the size of woolly balls you need for each round. I know this because I undid them from the hat as I didn’t like the colour order!

Crocheting a granny hat

Granny Hat Measurements

This granny stripe hat has approx 8cm negative ease. This means that it is about 8cm smaller than an actual adult head. It shouldn’t be too baggy as it is stretching to fit comfortably yet securely. Therefore, it will fit snuggly atop a bonce that needs warming.

The following measurements are taken on newly made, unblocked hats stretched slightly after one outing/wear about town. 

Hat circumference: (49) 50 cm.
Hat depth with brim folded: 22cm
Unfolded brim depth: 10.5cm
Depth of granny stripe rounds: 17cm

  • Make size 1 for a head measuring 56 – 57cm.
  • Make size 2 for a head measuring 58 – 59cm.

Granny Stripe Tension

Tension is key to the size of a finished granny stripe hat. The following measurements are taken from an unblocked hat, as above.

Granny Stripes: 5.5 clu / 10 rows = 10cm
Brim ribbing: 24 rows / 24 sts = 10cm. 

If you would like to know more about what tension means in relation to your crochet, read about getting gauge in your crochet HERE.

A stash busting granny stripe hat

Adjusting the Size of Your Granny Stripe Hat

With all crochet, there is always room for tweaking and adjusting to make something unique and perfect for the individual. However, if you would rather not tinker with stitch counts, try a simple change such as using a different hook size to get a smaller or larger gauge. Perhaps a 3.5mm or 3.75mm hook for a smaller hat, Or, for a larger hat, a 4.5mm hook.

Adjusting the granny stripe section for a different head size means altering the number of clusters on increase rounds. Adding or removing a cluster will change the hat’s circumference by approximately 1cm. Round 8 is an increase round and a good round for adding or subtracting a cluster. This pattern has either 2 or 3 increases on Round 8 depending on the size. If your hat is coming up a bit too small, why not add a 4th increase?

To make an extra large hat, add another round or two of granny stripes before continuing to the foundation round of UK dc / US sc stitches.

Crochet Ribbing Adjustments

To adjust ribbing, the stitch count needs to be changed on Round 17. This is the foundation upon which the Join As You Go ribbing is worked. Because of the different tension of the ribbing, it draws the hat in. With no increases on Round 17, crumbs, it was so tight it wouldn’t join up! So, whilst the increases might look a bit complicated on paper, they are as evenly distributed as possible. The paid version of the granny stripe hat pattern has a chart so you can check out the visuals of increases.

The foundation stitches of Round 17 should be multiples of 2, plus 1 but you’ll get away with a little bit of fudging too. Negative ease is needed for the brim so don’t add too many extra stitches if you’re upsizing. 

Join As You Go Ribbing for a Granny Stripe Hat

Using the Same Colour Every Stripe Round?

The crochet hat pattern below assumes you will change colour for each granny stripe round. Each round begins by joining a new colour of yarn with “sttr” which is the rather fabulous Standing Start – see below for more information about Special Stitches.

To make a hat using the all same colour means using a different method to start subsequent rounds. It’s not a difficult crochet method, just different.

What you need to do is this: once the previous round has been joined with a slip stitch, slip stitch into the next two stitches and into the next space between clusters. From here, start the next round with a chain three, or your preferred alternative, such as a Stacked Start.

Don’t worry if you’re confused, let me help further… Take a look at the video for Alternatives to a Chain 3. A tutorial for the Stacked Start is shown in the video tutorial but if you prefer, there’s always a No Turning Chain start too. Watch my video for a Large Granny Square from 30:48 for a demonstration of the technique for when you don’t want to change colour every round.

Crochet Granny stripe Hat pattern

Crochet Pattern Abbreviations

I am going to pop the stitch pattern abbreviations in here as I start talking in crochet speak from here on.

Before I do, I think it’s worth mentioning that this pattern is only available in UK terms at the moment. But please don’t let that put you off. The swap/conversion you have to do is minimal. We’re talking granny clusters here and you know as well as I do that these are always the same!

So, the main stitch in the pattern in UK terms is the treble stitch. In US terms this is a double crochet (dc). So, US pals, work your grannies as normal; clusters of 3dc. Round 17 will be single crochet stitches for you. And that’s it!

Abbreviations (UK terms)
beg = beginning, BLO = back loop only, ch = chain, ch-sp = chain space, clu = cluster,
dc = double crochet (US sc), st(s) = stitch(es), sp(s) = space(s), sl st = slip stitch,
sttr = standing treble start, tr = treble (US dc), rep = repeat, r/s = sight side, w/s = wrong side,
YO sl st = yarn over slip stitch, yrh = yarn round hook.

Special Crochet Stitches

Beg tr2tog:
This is used at the beginning of Rnd 1 to work the first “petal”. It uses the same principle as a Stacked Start. See the video for How to Start Round 1

Insert hook in circle, yrh and pull through, yrh and pull through both loops on hook (it helps to gently pinch the st at this point to make the next stage easier), insert hook in left leg of the st and the loop behind it (the pinch helps the back loop to become looser and more visible), yrh and pull through, (2 loops on hook), yrh and insert hook into the circle, yrh and pull through (4 loops on hook), yrh and pull through 2 loops, yrh and pull through 3 loops. 

Standing tr start (sttr):
The Standing Start is a method demonstrated in the video for Alternatives to Chain 3. Use this instead of chaining 3 to start the beginning of a row/round, it looks much tidier than a 3-chain and it’s fun to do!

Yrh three times and hold loops on hook with forefinger, insert hook in sp/st, yrh and pull through, [yrh and pull through 2 loops] twice. 
Let go of the yarn wrapped around your hook. First treble stitch made.

Supporting Video Tutorials For Crochet

How to Start Round 1 – This is a tutorial for a granny square but Round 1 is exactly the same for the hat too.

Alternatives to a Chain 3 – This will help you start new rounds in a tidy way. I demonstrate the Standing Start and the Stacked Start in this video. You could even try the No Turning chain, which I bemoan in the video but can actually be very effective! Don’t tell anyone, but I have started using it way more since I made this video tutorial!

Join As You Go Ribbing – The ribbing used in this granny stripe pattern is demonstrated from 18:02. It is a “knit-look” crochet ribbing and one I have used a lot. And yes, I know it has slip stitches but they are much more fun to do when accompanied by a yarn over sl st. Honest!

Using the same colour every round? Watch the tutorial for the Large Granny Square from 30:48 for the first three rounds and you can use a totally different method for starting rounds that will achieve excellent results. This granny square tutorial is a pretty useful video as I also demonstrate the Standing Start again (7:09).

Granny Stripe Hat Crochet Pattern

Hat Pattern Notes

  • This crochet hat pattern is written in UK terms – feel free to check out the abbreviations above for more details.
  • A cluster is 3 UK tr / US dc stitches made in the same space.
  • Using a different weight of yarn or a different sized hook will affect the size of the hat. 
  • Follow the pattern for both sizes. At Round 8 the reps for both sizes are shown as 11(7). Size 1 is the first number with size 2 in brackets.

Granny Stripe Hat Pattern

Chain 5 and join with a sl st.
1: 1Beg tr2tog, ch2, *tr2tog, 2ch: rep from * 6 more times, join with a sl st into the 1st 2ch-sp. Fasten off & cut yarn. – 8 “petals”

2: Attach new yarn with 1sttr in any 2ch-sp, 2tr in same sp, 1ch, *3tr in next 2ch-sp, 1ch; rep from * 6 more times, join with a sl st into the top of the sttr. Fasten off & cut yarn.

3 (Inc): Attach new yarn with 1sttr in any 1ch-sp, (1tr, 1ch, 2tr) in same sp, *(2tr, 1ch, 2tr) in next 1ch-sp; rep from * 6 more times, join with a sl st into the top of the sttr. Fasten off & cut yarn.

4: Attach new yarn with 1sttr in any 1ch-sp, 2tr in same sp, miss 2 sts, 3tr, *miss 2 tr, 3tr in next 1ch-sp, miss 2 sts, 3tr; rep from * around join with a sl st into the top of the sttr. Fasten off & cut yarn. -16 clu

5: Attach new yarn with 1sttr in any sp between clusters, 2tr in same sp, *3tr in next sp; rep from * around join with a sl st into the top of the sttr. Fasten off & cut yarn. 

6 (inc): Attach new yarn with 1sttr in any sp, (1tr, 1ch, 2tr) in same sp, 3tr in next sp, *(2tr, 1ch, 2tr) in next sp, 3tr in next sp; rep from * around, join with a sl st into the top of the sttr. – 24 clu

7:  Attach new yarn with 1sttr in any 1ch-sp, 2tr in same sp, 3tr in each sp between clusters and in each ch-sp, join with a sl st into the top of the sttr.

8 (inc): Attach new yarn with 1sttr in any sp, (1tr, 1ch, 2tr) in same sp, 3tr in next 11(7)  sps, *(2tr, 1ch, 2tr) in next sp, 3tr in next 11 (7) sps; rep from * 0 (1) more time, join with a sl st into the top of the sttr. – 26 (27) clu

9: As Rnd 7.

10 – 16:  Attach new yarn with 1sttr in any sp, 2tr in same sp, 3tr in each sp between clusters around, join with a sl st into the top of the sttr.  

For a smaller head you may wish to only work 15 rounds, or 17 rounds for a larger head.

17 (size 1): Attach brim ribbing yarn to any st, 1ch (does not count as a st), [2dc in first st, 1dc, *2dc in next st, 3dc; rep from * five more times] three times, join with a sl st into the top of the st. – 99 sts

17 (size 2): Attach brim ribbing, 1ch, 2dc in first st, 3dc, 2dc in next st, 4dc, [2dc in next st, 1dc, *2dc in next st, 3dc; rep from * three more times] four times, join with a sl st into the top of the st. – 103 sts

Hat Brim/Crochet Ribbing

Chain 25.
1: Working in back bumps, YO sl st in second ch from hook, YO sl st to end, (with right side facing) sl st in next 2 sts of foundation round, turn. – 24 sts.

2 (w/s): Miss 2 sl sts, 23sl sts BLO, 1sl st in both loops, turn.

3 (r/s): ch1, 24 YO sl st BLO, sl st in next 2 sts of foundation round, turn.

Rep Rows 2 & 3 to end, finishing with Row 2. 

With wrong side of brim facing out, join the beginning and end rows of ribbing with slip stitches. Or, if you prefer, sew the open ends together. 
Fold brim to reveal the right side of the pretty ribbing stitches.

Hmm, look at the pic above, is that join too messy? It makes me wonder if an additional round of UK dc/US sc could be added at the end of the granny rounds. Don’t you think it would look neater with a round in the same colour as the last round of clusters? Hindsight is a wonderful thing!

Aaannnyway, what do you think? I hope you enjoy working on lots of granny stripe hats. They are the perfect last minute gift for friends and family.

If the ads are stopping your from enjoying this pattern, don’t forget that you can purchase an ad-free version from Ravelry HERE, Or if Rav isn’t your bag, I have an Etsy shop HERE. The paid pattern is a bit more streamlined and includes a chart too. 25% off with the code GRANNYHAT until 31/12/2024

If you enjoyed this free crochet pattern, please feel free to peruse my free crochet patterns page. And if you are curious about exploring different crochet methods and techniques, check out some crochet tips and tricks HERE.

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Granny Santa Hat

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Crochet Granny Santa Hat

Granny Santa Hat Pattern

Bless my sweet boy! It has been a few years since he modelled my Christmas Granny Santa Hat. He is much bigger than this now, in fact, he is taller than me and growing every day. However, I know that this Granny Santa hat still fits him as it’s a bit of a one size fits all hat.

Made from super chunky yarn, this hat is incredibly quick and easy to crochet. It’s not even Halloween yet, so you have plenty of time to crochet a Santa hat for everyone in the family this Christmas!

This is a crochet design from a few years ago and I thought it would be good to have as a festive freebie (scroll down to find the free pattern). However, you can also grab a copy of the PDF version, which also has a bonus pattern of matching crochet granny hat bunting!

The Crochet Christmas Collection

Not to confuse matters but I also created a collection of crochet patterns I thought were Christmassy, into one bundle. It’s the Christmas Crochet Collection and features: granny stitch baubles, cosy crochet slipper socks the aforementioned hat and bunting, as well as a C2C sweater with a subtle nod to Christmas.

The Christmas Crochet Collection is available to buy, or you can find the patterns for free in the following places:

christmas crochet bunting with little granny santa hats
christmas crochet baubles

Things you Need to Crochet a Granny Santa Hat

Granny Hat Pattern Notes:

  • All the pictures in this pattern are of the same chunky Christmas hat, it’s just different heads that it’s perched upon.
  • The hat is worked​ bottom up, starting with the front post/back post brim.
  • Finished​ ​size:​ When laid flat the length (excl pompom) is ​​approx 14 inches / 36cm. The diameter is approximately 9.5 inches / 24cm.
  • There is an option to finish the hat a few rounds early (that way, just one ball of red can be used). See Round 17.
  • Whilst tension isn’t too much of an issue for a hat like this, it will affect the amount of yarn you use.
  • The pattern is written in UK terms and has US equivalents in brackets (see abbreviations). However, it is pretty much all one stitch – the US double crochet. As long as you use that, you’re good to go.
  • When “cluster” is referred to in the pattern, this means a traditional 3 stitch granny cluster. (3tr for UK and 3dc for US).

Chunky Yarn for a Crochet Santa Hat

I used Stylecraft Life Super Chunky (100g/80m per ball). You will need one ball of the Cream and two balls of the colourway, Cardinal. If you need to be a bit more conservative with the amount of yarn you use, you could finish your hat a few rounds early and then you would only need one ball in Cardinal.

The bonus garland pattern within the PDF version came about because I had to break into the second ball of the red to finish the pointy bit of the hat. I had plenty of chunky yarn left over and didn’t want it to go to waste. So the result is the garland of mini crochet Santa hats!

Note that in the US a super chunky is often in the same category as super bulky.

Don’t Forget Your Other Crochet Tools:

  • 8mm crochet hook.
  • Large eye darning needle – something that will fit super chunky yarn.
  • Pompom maker for approx 8-9cm diameter pompom.
  • Scissors – you can’t break a bulky yarn with your hands unless you have some kind of magical Christmas spirit strength.

Crochet Pattern Abbreviations

Ch=​ ​chain, BPtr= back post treble (US BPdc), FPtr= front post treble (US FPdc)
Rep=​ ​repeat, St= ​stitch, ​​​Sl st=​ ​slip​ ​stitch, ​Tr= Treble crochet​ ​(US double).

Crochet Christmas granny stitch santa hat

Granny Santa Hat Pattern

With Cream, chain 54.
1: Working in back bumps of chain, 1tr in 4th ch from hook, 1tr along to end, join with a sl st to the top of ch3 to form a circle. [52 sts]
2-4: Ch3 (counts as a FPtr), *1BPtr, 1FPtr; rep from * around, finishing on BPtr, join with a sl st to top of ch3. Fasten off Cream.
5: Attach Cardinal to any st, ch3, 2tr in same st, miss 3 sts, *3tr cluster, miss 3 sts; rep from * around, join with a sl st to the top of ch3. [13 clusters]
6 -10: Ch3, 2tr in same sp, *3tr cluster in next sp; rep from * around, join with a sl st to the top of ch3. [13 clusters]
11: Ch2, 1tr in next sp (counts as a decrease), *3tr cluster in next sp; rep from * around, join with a sl st to the top of 1tr, sl st into next sp. 
12: Rep 6. [12 clusters]
13: Rep 11.
14: Rep 6. [11 clu]
15: Rep 11.
16: Rep 6. [10 clu]
17: Rep 11. (This is where I ran out of the first ball of Cardinal so, for a shorter, less pointy hat, fasten off here).
18: Rep 6. [8 clu]
19: Rep 11.
20: Rep 6. [7 clu]

Finishing Off Your Santa Hat

Fasten off by using the tail to weave between clusters. Pull tight to securely close. You might want to weave the yarn in and out a few times just to be sure it’s fastened off nice and firmly. Then, sew the bottom of the brim closed with a couple of stitches (see above). Sew in all other ends.

Make and trim a beautiful, big, fluffy pompom to attach to the top of the hat. The best way to attach it is to use the tie ends of the pompom.

Hey Presto!! You now have a fabulous granny stitch hat that would make Father Christmas very proud! What do you think? I quite fancy a green and white striped version. Maybe I will make one this year.

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All three of these photos are the same hat on different people. I think it gives you a good idea of the one-size-fits-all approach.

With thanks to my old pal, Paul Courtney who took most of these pics with his fancy camera. That’s him below, a Father Christmas in the making.

Ho ho ho!

christmas granny santa hat
Crochet Santa hat

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Mix & Match Crochet Cowl Patterns

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A selection of Crochet Cowl Patterns

New Crochet Pattern Release!

I am a huge fan of crochet cowl patterns, so much so a few years ago, I wrote a blog post listing 10 of my favourite crochet cowls. This new set of Mix & Match Crochet Cowl Patterns isn’t included in that post because I have only just released them.

The idea for a set of mix and match stitch patterns (so that you can have a choice in the cowl you make) has been with me for a while. The seed was planted when I designed a striped cowl for an issue of Inside Crochet magazine (I can’t remember what issue, sorry!).

You may know this by now but some people just can’t leave things alone. They insist on tinkering, adjusting, tweaking and amending crochet patterns to suit them. I am one of those people! And I wanted to come up with a pattern that allowed for playing around with different crochet stitches, messing about with colours and combining them in lots of unique ways.

What cowl will you make? 5 Crochet Cowl Patterns in 1!
5 crochet cowl patterns
5 crochet cowl patterns in one

Mix & Match Crochet Cowl Pattern

You can find the pattern for the Mix & Match Crochet Cowl Pattern in my Ravelry store as well as my little Etsy shop. So far it is in UK terms only. Please let me know how keen you are on a version that has US terms because I can bump that job to the top of my list if there is interest.

Within the pattern, there are five different designs to make or, you can choose your own selection of stitch patterns to create your own unique crochet cowl pattern. Get 25% off with the code: MMCOWL

A bouquet of colourful yarn minis.
A Crochet Cowl Pattern for the perfect way to stash bust your yarn collection

Stash Busting Crochet Cowl Patterns

A wonderful thing about crochet is the freedom to stash bust your favourite yarns. A crochet cowl is no different. And this one is perfect for chucking all your leftover yarn at. You don’t necessarily need a main colour but I find it’s good to balance out all of the other colours you choose.

These crochet cowl patterns are also ideal for yarn advent calendars. Grab that pretty bouquet of colourful minis and you will create the most beautiful crochet accessory your eyes have ever seen! Ooooh, I love it! It’s super exciting to think about all the combinations, isn’t it?

Crochet Cowl Patterns

Five Different Crochet Cowl Patterns in One!

As I have mentioned, the pattern has five different crochet patterns and you can pick one of those, or combine the stitches in a different way. It’s totally up to you.

The stitch patterns included are cute bobble stripes, an easy eyelet stitch and simple post stitch ribbing. Also stripes. Lots of stripes! I cannot get enough of them. The stitch multiples are provided so you can stick with those, or try something in between. Fun, hey?!

It was very hard to stop at just five patterns as the possibilities are vast and wide. So, to keep things simple, there’s a cosy small cowl, a large cowl that kinda doubles as a snood, and then something that is more akin to a crochet infinity scarf. Oh and because I can’t get enough of mohair, I used that in one of the patterns too. If you’re worried about using mohair yarn in your crochet projects, read some top tips here.

Take a look below at my “modelling”. It would seem, that a bit like Zoolander, I can only look one way.

Zeens and Roger, crochet cowl pattern
Crochet Cowl pattern from Zeens and Roger
Mohair crochet cowl pattern

Which Cowl Will You Make?

It’s hard to choose a favourite cowl, right? But if I had to, oh I’d make a new one that’s different to any of these. And I can because the pattern allows me to do that! Boom! I’ll just choose the size, grab some more yarn and see what happens.

What about you? Which crochet cowl pattern will you choose?

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A Discovery of Stitches Sampler Scarf

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A Zeens and Roger design for the Curate Crochet Subscription box

A Discovery of Stitches from Curate Crochet

In the past I have confessed to not being a fan of subscription boxes. There are a number of reasons for this but the main two have always been, 1) I am paying for something and I don’t know what I’m going to get. 2) I’m locked in and can’t get out of the “deal”

Luckily for all of us, Curate Crochet Subscription boxes don’t involve either of these problems! Yay! And best of all, sometimes (certainly, this month anyway) the crochet designs that feature in the subscription box, have been designed by me!!

There is always such a super variation of designs in the Curate Crochet boxes, which means there are always new crochet ideas to try. Above, I mention the first problem I have with subscription boxes, which is you don’t know what you’re going to get until you’ve ordered. Here though, you get to see the crochet project before you buy. This month it is the Discovery of Stitches, a classic sampler scarf, and you have 7 days to order. The deadline to sign up for this sampler scarf box is the 7th of October!! Use the code Rosina5 to get £5 off your purchase.

Discovery of Stitches Subscription box

Crochet Sampler Scarf

Back in the early summer, Lindsey got in touch to ask if I would like to design the October subscription box for Curate Crochet. Not wanting to miss out on all the fun, I immediately said yes! The designs that feature are always pitch perfect and I was delighted that Lindsey wanted to ask me to be a guest designer.

I was given a brief, which included a beautiful mood board to guide me. (As a designer, I love a good brief and mood board. It makes it so much easier to know what path to go down). The main idea was that of a crochet sampler scarf; a few different crochet stitches all sitting happily alongside each other.

I chose some of my all-time favourite stitches, that way, I think you can see it’s “on brand” for my crochet style. The colours (a gorgeous variegated yarn) are completely Lindsey. Therefore, you have a lovely blend of both of our styles and that’s most definitely my favourite part of this project!

Sampler Scarf Stitches for Witches

Let’s talk a little bit more about the scarf itself (I don’t want to miss anything out!). So, I’ve mentioned that the Discovery of Stitches scarf includes some of my fave crochet stitches. It goes without saying that I absolutely had to include granny clusters. This is the direction I was steered and I was thrilled to explore how I could merge grannies with my other top stitches: the Houndstooth stitch and a lovely set of Ripples.

Bringing it to top tier, the ombre fringing is something to behold! It took a little bit of patience to order all the strands but it is oh so worth it. That was the fiddliest bit for sure. Doesn’t it look fantastic!?

The variegated yarn means much fewer ends to sew in because the colour changes come from the yarn itself. But I am afraid there are still more than just one or two to tidy away. A great trick is to just carry them with you as you crochet so you don’t need to snip so often. You can’t do this in all the sections but certainly, in the stripes, it makes life a little bit easier for sure.

Discovery of Stitches Subscription Box

Curate Crochet Subscription Box

Hopefully, this is a project that calls to you. The idea of marrying classic crochet stitches means you get lots of interest going on but nothing is ever head-scratching. The classic stitches are all fun and easy to work but Lindsey also puts together fabulous tutorials to accompany the written pattern.

If you are tempted by the Discovery of Stitches box for this month, don’t forget the £5 discount with the code Rosina5. Pop across to the Lottie & Albert website to find out more. Be quick though, remember you only have until the 7th of October.

The second point I made at the beginning of this post is also worth noting again, you don’t need to lock into any deals. If you only wanted this one box, that’s all you need to commit to. I love that idea! Plus, you get lots of other goodies too. I am particularly fond of the little kitty witch pin, she’s so cute! Just right for the season!

A discovery of stitches crochet sampler scarf
A Discovery of Stitches subscription box from Curate Crochet
Lindsey from Lottie & Albert

You may have guessed already but this post contains an affiliate link. That’s only because it’s my crochet design and I would love you to make your own cosy sampler scarf. I think this is a design that’s definitely a Treat rather than a Trick ;p

And just for good measure, I’ll include the link once more for the October Curate Crochet box HERE. Use the code Rosina5 for your discount. Cheers and Happy Halloween!

Large Granny Square with Circle Centre

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Granny Square Tutorial

This large granny square pattern has been designed specifically so I can use it in a bigger crochet project that I’ve been working on over the last year. Since last autumn or so, I have made enough granny squares for two double-bed sized crochet blankets and this pattern is part of those colourful blankets.

I recorded a large granny square tutorial in the spring and it has taken me until the late summer to edit it and put it together! Oh my goodness, such a long time. One of the reasons for the delay is that I wanted to make sure I got the pattern right. The element that needed perfecting was the granny circle in the middle of the square because the first blanket had too many stitches. You can find out much much more in Episode 104 of the Zeens and Roger Crochet Podcast as that video has a decent chat about the blankets I made. Therefore, if you’d like to know more, please do watch it (there are other granny projects in that episode too).

To watch the video tutorial of how to make a large granny square with a circle centre, go HERE to YouTube. For the written pattern, keep scrolling.

Crochet blanket. Large granny squares and cute little granny squares together.

Granny Squares to Make a Crochet Blanket

The photo above shows the first blanket I made at the beginning of this year. It’s a crochet blanket that I have been meaning to make for yeeeeeaaars. Back in 2011 (ish) I made one that was very similar and over the years I have been asked for the pattern quite a lot. I’ll have to dig out a photo to share in the next blog post (I’ll do that once blanket no.2 is complete).

The blankets all have the same thing in common; they have large and small squares laid out together in a “random formation”. The pattern for the large granny square is below. You can find the pattern for the cute little granny square HERE (plus the video tutorial too). When combined, you can make an awesome crochet blanket.

The best thing about making lots of squares and turning them into a blanket is that there is no rush. Make just a few every now and then, pick up and put down as and when the mood takes. Before you know it, everything has come together nicely at a super relaxing pace. Wonderful stuff.

Pattern for a large granny square

Things you Need to Crochet a Large Granny Square

For this pattern, you will need lots of DK yarn and a 4mm hook. This crochet pattern makes a 13 round square, that measures approximately 10 inches. Granny squares are, of course, the best stashbusters in the world so gather up all your DK leftovers to make your own unique motifs for a one of a kind blanket.

It’s important to note that the written instructions here use UK terms. Anywhere you see “tr” or “treble” please remember that these are US double crochet stitches.

Below are some special stitches that you may not know. I assume that you know any other, more basic, abbreviations but please leave a comment below if anything foxes you and I will do my best to answer as soon as I can.

Special Crochet Stitches

To make a stonkingly good crochet square there are a couple of techniques here that you may be new to, or perhaps not. But I will share them here as they are integral to the pattern. Please do not worry, they are not as hard as you might think and the video tutorial takes you through these crochet techniques step-by-step.

Beg tr2tog:

This is used at the beginning of Rnd 1 to work the first “petal”. It uses the same principle as a Stacked Start (have you seen my video tutorial for Alternatives to a Chain 3?).
Insert hook in circle, yrh and pull through, yrh and pull through both loops on hook (it helps to gently pinch the st at this point to make the next stage easier). Insert hook in left leg of the st and the loop behind it (the pinch helps the back loop to become looser and more visible), yrh and pull through, (2 loops on hook), yrh and insert hook into the circle, yrh and pull through (4 loops on hook), yrh and pull through 2 loops, yrh and pull through 3 loops. 

Standing tr start (sttr):

This is instead of starting rounds by using chains, it looks much tidier than a 3-chain and it’s fun to do! It’s perfect when changing colour at the beginning of rows. Yrh three times and hold loops on hook with forefinger, insert hook in ch-sp/st, yrh and pull through, [yrh and pull through 2 loops] twice. Let go of the yarn wrapped around your hook. First treble stitch made.

Standing dtr start (stdtr) = A US standing treble:

This is same principle as the sttr only for a taller stitch; you just wrap the yarn around your hook an extra time.
Yrh four times and hold loops on hook with forefinger, insert hook in ch-sp/st, yrh and pull through, [yrh and pull through 2 loops] three times.  Let go of the yarn wrapped around your hook. First dtr stitch made.

A cluster = 3 tr together in the same space.

The written pattern below assumes you will change colour every round. With Blanket No. 2 you will see that I don’t change colour every round for the granny squares. Watch the tutorial (towards the end) to see how that’s done as you have to use a couple of different techniques. Nothing crazy, I promise.

Top Tip!! Alternate the place where you join your yarn for each round. Join new yarn in the opposite corner to the join of the previous round. This avoids the dreaded granny twist! You can see this method doesn’t work quite so well if you are not changing colour.

Crochet Granny sqaure blanket in the making. Pattern for a Large granny square

Large Granny Square Pattern

Chain 5 and join with a sl st.
Rnd 1: 1Beg tr2tog, ch2, *tr2tog, 2ch: rep from * 6 more times, join with a sl st into the 1st 2ch-sp. Fasten off & cut yarn. Do not turn (here & throughout). [ 8 “petals”]

Rnd 2: Attach new yarn with 1sttr in any 2ch-sp, 2tr in same sp, 1ch, *3tr in next 2ch-sp, 1ch; rep from * 6 more times, join with a sl st into the top of the sttr. Fasten off & cut yarn.

Rnd 3: [this is a change from the video tutorial – you may hear me waffle at about 12/13 minutes re where I put my chains for Rnd 4 and this new way makes more sense – it amounts to the same amount of stitches and chain at the end] Attach new yarn with 1sttr in any 1ch-sp, (1tr, 1ch, 2tr) in same sp, *(2tr, 1ch, 2tr) in next 1ch-sp; rep from * 6 more times, join with a sl st into the top of the sttr. Fasten off & cut yarn.

Rnd 4: Attach new yarn with 1sttr in any 1ch-sp, 2tr in same sp, miss 2 sts, 3tr, *miss 2 tr, 3tr in next 1ch-sp, miss 2 sts, 3tr; rep from * around join with a sl st into the top of the sttr. Fasten off & cut yarn. [16 clusters]

Rnd 5: Attach new yarn with 1sttr in any sp between clusters, 2tr in same sp, *3tr in next sp; rep from * around, join with a sl st into the top of the sttr. Fasten off & cut yarn.

Rnd 6: Attach new yarn with 1stdtr in any sp, 2dtr in same sp, [3tr in next sp] three times, *(3dtr, 2ch, 3dtr) in next sp, [3tr in next sp] three times; rep from * two more times, 3dtr in first corner, 1htr join in top of stdtr [see the htr join at 22:30 of the video tutorial]. Fasten off & cut yarn.

Rnds 7 – 13: Attach new yarn with 1sttr in corner 2ch-sp, 2tr in same sp, [3tr in next sp] four times, *(3tr, 2ch, 3tr) in 2ch-sp, [3tr in next sp] four times; rep from *two more times, 3tr in corner ch-sp, 1htr join in top of sttr. Fasten off & cut yarn.

And that’s how to crochet a large granny square! Now, sew in all of your ends!!

How to Join Granny Squares

There are a few different ways to join granny squares and you can do so however you see fit. In the video tutorial for the little granny squares, I demonstrate how to Join As You Go but for the new crochet blankets I have chosen to sew them together using the mattress stitch, which is also known as the ladder stitch. I prefer the look and it gives me more control. But that’s a story for another day.

Obviously, you can use this pattern to create lots of crochet squares for your own projects. However, I will pop by very soon to put all the elements together so you can see how to crochet your own granny square blanket.

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Making a Crochet Wedding Dress. Part 1

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I Crocheted A Wedding Dress For My Sister

OK, so I didn’t crochet a wedding dress for my sister, but I did design and create the top half! If you’d like help with making your own unique crochet bridal top, read on…

First things first, I have two little sisters. One was the bride: Cassie, and the other: Letitia (aka Tishie), was the seamstress and she made the coordinating bridal skirt.

This post is about the initial design process of working out how to make a crochet wedding dress (Yes I know, it’s just the top/bodice, but I got into the habit of saying we were making a dress, so “dress” has stuck I’m afraid). The plan is to write a separate blog post for beyond the design stage (part 2 will be blocking, lining, finishing touches etc).

I took a heck of a lot of photographs of the making process but not so many of the big day itself (I was too busy stuffing my face with canapes). I will try and blag some photos later so you can see the outfit in more detail. Fingers crossed!

Inspiration for Designing A Crochet Wedding Outfit

It must have been around a year or so ago that Cassie asked me to make part of her wedding outfit. At the beginning, it felt like we had bags of time and ordinarily it is an excellent idea to plan the making of a crochet wedding dress as early as possible. There are lots of aspects you need to consider. Time, for example, is essential not just for the crocheting part but for all the swatching, measuring and calculations etc.

However, despite a fantastically early start, I couldn’t do all of it straightaway because Cassie had also announced that she was pregnant!

Research and planning were still very much possible though. Therefore, in July 2023 we had our first meeting on the Isle of Wight where I was on holiday with my Mum, my brother and his family (plus my crew). Cassie and Tishie joined us for a tasty family lunch in a little railway restaurant in Yarmouth. I brought a bundle of yarn options and a few stitch dictionaries so that Cassie could thumb through everything to bookmark favourites. It was good to get the ball rolling ASAP. It was quite exciting too.

Find Pictures for Design Inspiration

The happy bride in the above picture is the original source of inspiration. The picture shows an elegant, close fitting wedding bodice with a high neckline and long sleeves. Cassie sent me a small, blurry pic on What’s App and asked if I could make something like it. Challenge accepted!

My first port of call was a Ravelry visit to see if a crochet pattern like it already existed. Ravelry is such a good platform for finding knitting and crochet patterns and hours can be spent trawling through awesome designs. This time though, Ravelry didn’t bring up anything similar. I am guessing here but wonder if most crochet wedding dresses are bespoke?

As the most exciting patterns I found on Ravelry were cats in wedding dresses I moved focus to Pinterest. It always comes to the rescue! I did a deep dive and found other images of THE outfit, which helped to work out the top construction. Pinterest is a great source for discovering all kinds of crochet wedding dress styles, stitch patterns and crochet charts.

Pinterest Board of Crochet Wedding Dreams

If you have no clue where to start when it comes to designing crochet garments, Pinterest is an excellent first choice. I put together a thorough Pinterest board of crochet wedding inspiration, HERE. Hopefully, this will give you some fabulous crochet wedding ideas as well.

On that Pinterest board you’ll find loads of pretty bridal images and loads of beautiful crochet dresses. They’re all ideas I wanted to discuss with Cassie so she could tell me what she did and didn’t like. We eliminated a lot and it made focus so much easier; I’d had lot of the ideas flying around in my creative brain.

Seeing as the original inspiration isn’t crochet, we needed a stitch pattern that would go some way to replicate the diamondy lace. Therefore, you’ll find ideas for crochet stitch patterns. And lastly, I got a bit trigger-happy on pinning crochet charts. Charts make life immensely easy when it comes to stitch patterns and working out shaping. Although, please note that I didn’t copy any of them for construction purposes. This is a made-to-measure crochet wedding dress and I created my own (there’s more chart chat further down the post).

Considering Other Design Elements

Mood board sorted, there were also a couple of other elements to consider for the design.

When making an outfit for another person, communication is key. We discussed all kinds of different ideas so I would know for sure what the vision was. And it wasn’t just crochet talk. Cassie, Tishie and I had a What’s App group so we could talk about colours, fabrics, yarn choices, measurements… Lots of questions were asked, even down to what kind of trainers might go well (sparkly gold ones, for the evening).

It isn’t just about one element but about how they’re all going to come together. One decision might impact another so it’s a good idea that everyone involved is on the same page.

Even if Cassie said she didn’t really mind and gave me loads of creative freedom, it was still wise to cement some definites. Funnily enough, I can’t remember what the absolutes were now. I think it was the open back, long sleeves and easy access for breastfeeding. And then, through swatching, I learned that she preferred plainer geometric stitch patterns rather than lacy styles.

Easily Adjustable Crochet Top

Seeing as a baby was on the way, we had to think of what a post-pregnancy wedding outfit might need to include.

Because she was growing a baby, the bride’s measurements were going to change quite a bit over the months leading up the the wedding, which meant measurements were postponed until as late as possible. The final design also needed to factor in lunch, dinner, and snacks for a 6 month-old baby. I added ties at the back of the neck so that they could be adjusted easily according to fit, and the waistband had poppers so it could be undone to allow for easy access to feeding. I am pleased to report that Baby M was very well-fed on the day; the top did not stand in her way at all.

Swatching for Pretty Crochet Stitch Patterns

Stitch pattern ideas for crochet wedding dress.

I came back from the Isle of Wight trip in July with bookmarks in all the pages of the stitch dictionaries. I then left them in the bottom of my crochet basket until October. In the half-term holiday, my family and I drove up to the Highlands of Scotland to stay with Cassie and James. It was Halloween and by then she was starting to look like a pumpkin, which is what you get if you wear orange t-shirts at 8 months.

I had told myself that one of the reasons to visit was to show her a big bundle of different swatches so she could choose favourites. I think I’d managed to complete two by then. Tishie was there as well so I’m sure we must have chatted at length about handmade wedding dresses and things. I don’t recall. Oh well, it was a lovely holiday.

pretty stitch patterns for a crochet wedding dress

A Swatch Consultation With the Bride

Roll on a few more months and it was time to start properly planning in earnest. No more delays or distractions. With a rucksack of swatches this time, in February I booked a flight to Inverness so we could make some final decisions.

None of the first batch of crochet swatches passed muster. They were too open, too lacy, a bit too flouncy. Some pattern repeats were too big, some overly complicated and some had unexpected little faces in the patterns. However, we eliminated a lot of styles and that was super useful. That weekend, the yarn was chosen and new swatches were worked up over the breakfast table. Crochet cogs were now in motion.

swatching for a crochet wedding dress

Yarn For A Crochet Wedding Dress

I didn’t really know where to start in terms of the yarn to choose to crochet something bridal. Initial conversations determined that 4ply cotton yarn might be a good place to start so I ordered a few different yarn choices online. I listened to my own advice on yarn substitution to help with that too.

After all the swatching, in all the different yarn choices, we narrowed it down to two. Rowan Summerlite 4ply and DMC Petra in size 3. Both in shades of Ecru.

We preferred the Rowan Summerlite 4ply. It’s twice the price of the DMC Petra. It feels like excellent quality because it is excellent quality. Unfortunately, the shade didn’t work. Not to mention the softness of the yarn made it very absorbent. Any spills would have soaked in immediately. The Northcotts are a messy family and we knew it was inevitable that Cassie would spill something down herself.

DMC Petra is a shiny, mercerised cotton, which we thought would be better at shaking off spills. The slightly golden colour was spot on too. I used one ball for lots of swatching, then purchased five for the final piece, which was plenty.

We had a sample of the skirt fabric to match with as well.

Should You Use a Finer Yarn for Finer Crochet Garments?

If I was more dexterous and had more time, I think I would have been tempted to use a size 5 Petra yarn rather than the 3 as it would have made a much finer and more delicate garment. My poor fingers though… I was already using a 2mm crochet hook with the size 3 yarn. The making process would have taken too long as finer yarn means more work.

Finer yarn would have affected the look of the stitch patterns too. For example, the diamond shapes on the main body would have come up smaller and I would have had to adjust the pattern repeats to make them look right. To be frank, that would have been too much fannying around.

It is absolutely worth considering finer yarn though. I think it would create beautiful crochet fabric for bridal wear. It just wasn’t possible for this project.

Yarn choices for a crochet wedding dress

A Made to Measure Crochet Bodice

I may have mentioned once or twice in other blog posts that maths and I are not friends. I am not algebraically blessed but in spite of frequent numeric nightmares, I have learned to respect a spreadsheet.

And you should see the spreadsheet I put together for this one teeny little top! I’m talking at least 150 rows of numbers. It is a lot but I adopted a very strict measure-twice-crochet-once approach.

I began with the standard Craft Yarn Council guide as a starting point but made-to-measure means you get the actual measurements directly from the body you’re making a garment for. In terms of how much information you need to design a made-to-measure crochet wedding dress, a good rule of thumb is: the more the merrier! I did fly back home without a couple of crucial measurements, which was a bit daft. Got them via our What’s App chat a week later.

Quite a bit of research went into how best to measure a body to make your own clothes. I watched a lot of videos about drafting sewing patterns and knitting patterns as there isn’t as much when it comes to designing crochet clothes. I’ve noted some resources below – they’re knitting books and videos.

Working out measurement for crochet wedding dress
Drawing daft sketches to work out measurements

How Much Ease to Add For Fitted Crochet Top?

When you’re doing made-to-measure, you also need to consider fit. How much “ease” will you apply to your measurements? Do you want the garment to be very fitted and therefore have negative ease? Or, do you want to add extra room for loose fit crochet clothes and have positive ease? Choices, choices…

Cotton yarn doesn’t have ping or stretch, especially in crochet. Once it’s blocked into shape, it probably won’t change much more. That meant I wanted to avoid negative ease as Cassie wouldn’t have been able to move. In the end, I opted for 2-4 cm positive ease to add to her actual body measurements. I adjusted this where necessary, tweaking places where the stitch count or pattern repeats dictated how much it would actually be.

More than 4cm and it wouldn’t have been a “fitted” top. However, it is difficult to judge exactly how much ease was in the final garment because Cassie lost weight. Post-pregnancy weight loss was always a possibility, it’s why I made things adjustable. But I am disappointed she didn’t eat more biscuits and cake to maintain the same shape once she’d had her measurements taken.

Using Charts to Draft a Crochet Pattern

With all the numbers plugged in and stitch counts calculated, I was ready to start drafting the shaping of the main body and sleeves. Using Stitchfiddle, I drew up the main body and sleeve stitch patterns to print and scribble on. These charts meant I had a visual guide to follow when crocheting.

Charts have been a lifesaver actually. I wouldn’t have trusted my brain without seeing what the numbers had come up with. Spreadsheet maths allows me to calculate the number of stitches and rows needed for each part of the garment whether it’s the upper arm, wrist, waist or bust etc. The charts show me how it all correlates and where I should make potential increases and/or decreases.

I won’t show you everything because I don’t want to give away too many secrets! However, below are some rough drawings and charts to show my chaotic thought processes.

Designing a crochet wedding dress

Crochet Set-in Sleeves

I spent most of my time working out the set in sleeves. A set-in sleeve is more fitted and tailored than other sleeve styles. At the top, it has a curved cap that sits neatly and accurately into an armhole that has the same measurements as the perimeter of the cap.

I had never designed a set-in sleeve crochet garment before and it’s hard to find definitive facts on the best way. I am certainly more comfortable with a casual “drop sleeve”. If you have any hot tips on this, please show me where to find them!

My favourite videos were a short series of knitting tutorials by Suzanne Bryan. There was some really useful information about body measurements and great details about set-in sleeves. I watched the videos religiously and used the body measurement advice to help build my spreadsheet.

I also used two knitting books which had more dreaded maths for me to get my head around. Both had their own take on the best way to work out the formulae for knitted set-in sleeves. Given that they both have different advice, I sort of aimed somewhere between the two and went with my gut a little bit as well. Gosh, it’s difficult though! Seeing as there isn’t one agreed way, I wonder if many designers plump for an empirical approach instead?

Both of these knitting books cover an extraordinary amount of information about all garment construction. Wouldn’t it be amazing if such a book existed for crochet?! Do you know of any?

books that helped with desgining a crochet wedding dress
These knitting books have information about designing set-in sleeves. Knitwear Design Workshop by Shirley Paden and Knitting Pattern Essentials by Sally Melville.

A Mock Up on a Form

At the same time as messing about with charts, I also drew up the measurements on paper to create rudimentary pattern pieces. I’m glad I did this step as it was enormously helpful.

What I haven’t mentioned thus far is that from the week after I left her in Februry, to a week or two before the wedding on June 1st, Cassie was off galivanting across the world. We couldn’t do fittings for the dress!

I worried slightly but perhaps not as much as I could have. Just look at my band of helpers pictured below. Tishie had two borrowed dressmaker’s dummies so I paid a visit to the New Forest, to Dad’s house, so I could use them. Turns out neither of them could be adjusted to Cassie’s size but nevermind, one provided a similar enough shape for me to drape parcel-taped calico across its polka dot form. It was a much needed step as I went away with a few redrafts.

It was also an opportunity to see how the skirt and top might look when together. Definitely a helpful stage.

Tishie has similar arms to Cassie so I used her to determine if I was on the right path for the sleeves. Another boon. I added an additional cm in length and width thanks to that try-on. Mr PP, the boer goat, was totally useless. He just walked over everything and stank of pee.

Crochet Wedding Dress in the making.

Time to Crochet A Wedding Dress!

With the yarn and stitches worked out, measurements written down and charts drawn up, it was time to get making. I was really looking forward to starting but simultaneously terrified. It could all go horribly wrong! However, by the time all of the above had been titivated to the point of excess, it was April. Time to pick up the crochet hook!

In the next blog post about how I designed a crochet wedding dress, I’ll talk more about the chosen stitch patterns (there are four of them!) and how they all came together. And I’d better not forget to mention the details such as the buttons and lining.

I’ll also aim to answer any questions, if you have them?

I know I haven’t told you about Tishie’s beautifully layered, silk and tulle skirt here (it was delicate and floaty and works so so well with the top). Combined, everything worked out just as we’d hoped. Oh, and Cassie crocheted a tie for James in matching colours! It was a proper team effort.

And before I leave Part 1, here are a few takeaways for making a crochet wedding dress.

  • 1: Measure twice, thrice, four times, crochet once.
  • 2: Make a mock-up out of cheap fabric, it is a very useful step.
  • 3: If the bride has a baby whilst you’re crocheting her dress/top, make it adjustable!
  • 4: If you can, ensure the bride is available to try on the outfit a few weeks before it’s needed. You might need to make adjustments.
A goat is not a great helper when it comes to making a crochet wedding dress
Mr PP investigating the important work of a crochet designer.

Decked Out: A Striped Shawl Pattern

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Decked Out is a Striped Crochet Shawl Pattern from Zeens and Roger

Deck Chair in a Crochet Shawl?

This morning, my phone reminded me that three years ago today I was putting the finishing touches to this striped crochet shawl pattern. Times flies…

I designed Decked Out to be just like deck chair fabric. It was the design idea for a magazine commission all about going to the beach. I think it fits the brief quite nicely.

Three years ago we were going away for a sunny weekend in Cornwall. I’m not usually brave enough to take crochet commissions on holiday but I think I’d left it very late and I was dancing pretty close to the deadline. I needed it done ASAP so it travelled with us, a few hours away, just a little bit deeper into the West Country.

Don’t worry, it didn’t get sand on it. I left it at the B&B when we went to the beach!

Decked Out, Striped Shawl pattern

Decked Out; A Striped Shawl Pattern

To celebrate its birthday, I’m releasing Decked Out for the first time since it appeared in Inside Crochet magazine. And if that’s not exciting enough, it’s right here on the blog now too! Keep scrolling for the striped shawl pattern full of bright, fun colour blocking. Or, you can buy both ad free UK and US versions of the pattern over on Ravelry, or in my Etsy store.

Oky doky, this is a lovely and simple shawl for those who fancy something a little bit more than basic stitches.

I used two kinds of stitches in this crochet design. The majority of the main body uses one of my favourites, the UK half treble / US half double worked in the front third loop. It creates beautiful ridges that provide a gorgeous texture. Then I finished it off with a classic rib of post stitches. If you have the yarn spare, add another couple of rows. I think it’s look really good.

What Yarn etc Do You Need for Your Crochet Shawl?

The yarn I used to make the Decked Out shawl is Milla Mia Sweden, Naturally Soft Merino. It’s 100% Superwash merino, 50g/ 125m/ 136yds which is sold as a sport weight yarn.

I used this soft and squishy yarn with a 3.5mm hook. I didn’t do a gauge swatch as tension doesn’t really matter for this shawl. But as you work your shawl, pay attention to the feel of the fabric. You’ll know if it looks too loose or feels too stiff. If you don’t like the squish of the fabric, just try a different hook size.

If you can’t get hold of the yarn I used, read all about Yarn Substitution to find an alternative that will work for you.

Special Stitches Needed for Your Shawl

UK hdc / US htr in 3rd front loop only: instead of working under the 2 loops that form a “V” at top of st, insert hook in horizontal loop that sits at front of st below the “V”.  

For the visual learners amongst you, check out my free pattern for a chunky scarf that uses the same stitch. That’s the link to the video tutorial.

Abbreviations – US terms

BPdc = back post double, ch = chain, ch-sp = chain space, dc = double crochet,
FPdc = front post double, hdc = half double, st(s) = stitch(es), sp(s) = space(s), sl st = slip stitch.

Notes Before You Begin

The following striped shawl pattern is in US terms but if you buy the ad free PDF version, it comes in both US & UK terms.

Please note that I haven’t included where to change colour within the written pattern. Instead, there is a chart (below) that will tell you how often you need to change colour. It also includes the stitch count for the end of every colour change (it’s the stitch count for the last row of each colour used).

If you love the crochet ribbing and want to explore it further, take a look at my post all about the best crochet ribbing!

And if you enjoy this pattern, have you seen my other crochet designs? Have a look at my Free Crochet Patterns Page. Then, why not take a look at some awesome crochet tips & tricks?!

The Crochet Shawl Pattern

With YA make a magic circle, or ch4 and join with a sl st.
Row 1: 1ch (does not count as a stitch here & throughout), 1dc, 2hdc, 2ch, 2hdc, 1dc in magic circle, turn – 3 sts per side.

Row 2: 1ch, (1dc, 2hdc) in first dc, hdc to center, (1hdc, 2ch, 1hdc) in 2ch-sp, hdc to last st, (2hdc, 1dc) in last dc, turn – 6 sts per side.

Row 3: 1ch, (1dc, 2hdc) in first dc, hdc in front 3rd loop to center, (1hdc, 2ch, 1hdc) in 2ch-sp, hdc in front 3rd loop to last st, (2hdc, 1dc) in last dc, turn – 9 sts per side and increasing by 3 sts per side every row.

Continue in pattern, following chart (below) for color order/stripe sequence.

Row 4 – 67: Rep row 3 – 201 sts.

Crochet ribbing on a striped shawl pattern

Edging
Row 68: 1ch, 3dc in first st, [2FPdc, 2BPdc] to center 2ch-sp, (2dc, 2ch, 2dc) in 2ch-sp, [2BPdc, 2FPdc] to last st, 3dc in last st, turn – 205 sts, increasing by 4 sts per side.

Row 69 – 71: Rep 68 – 217 sts. 

Fasten off and sew in ends.

Block using preferred method.

Follow This Colour Chart

In the PDF pattern you can purchase, this helpful chart is colour coded to make it a little bit easier to follow. It’s still not difficult but I like it to be pretty!

RowsYarnSt count  @ end of colour block.
1 – 12A36
13 – 16B48
17 – 20C60
21 – 24D72
25 – 32E96
33 – 36F108
37 – 44G132
45 – 52D156
53 – 56A168
57 – 58E175
59 – 66C198
67 – 71B217

And it’s as simple as that! I hope you like this striped shawl pattern. Let me know if you make it and add it to your Ravelry project page too.

Cheers. x

Crochet Join As You Go Ribbing

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What is Join As You Go Ribbing?

Join As You Go Ribbing, or JAYG ribbing is an excellent technique you can use with all sorts of crochet projects. Its meaning is literal; as you work your ribbing, up and down, you anchor it to a main piece of crochet fabric with a couple of slip stitches every other row.

I have used a few different stitch patterns for Join As You Go ribbing and now have my favourites (I’ll share a few stitch patterns below). JAYG is perfect for crochet sweaters and cardigans, you can use it for the waistband, neck band and cuffs. It also works brilliantly for a blanket or shawl border.

I often find that the starting point is the fiddliest bit of many crochet patterns and that’s true here, I’m afraid. But as is normal, after a couple of goes it becomes much easier and you’ll have wondered why you were so worried about trying it in the first place!

To take away any confusion, I have also put together a video tutorial showing three ways to work Join As You Go Ribbing. This includes crocheting ribbing around a corner!

The Riley Sweater, The boat neck design uses a Join As You Go Hdc in the front thrid loop
Riley Too, JAYG ribbing for the neckline.

If you’re not ready for JAYG (but I’m certain that you are!), you can work your ribbing separately and stitch it on after. Check out my blog post on my absolute favourite Crochet Ribbing Stitches. That post also comes with a video tutorial to demonstrate how I work the ribbing stitches.

A Couple of Tips for Tidy JAYG Crochet Ribbing

There is very little restriction on what ribbing stitch patterns you can use for Join As You Go, it’s entirely up to you but I will share a few of my favourites that you may want to try on your own crochet items.

With any of these patterns, you’ll want a round/row of foundation stitches to work into. It’s best that this is in the same yarn and same colour as the ribbing or main fabric because it will help blend the joining stitches tidily. Obviously, this depends on what you determine to be the right side or wrong side. Experiment with a swatch before you embark on your actual project to work out what side you’d like to start on.

Even if the stitch patterns themselves look the same on both sides, where they’re joined to the fabric you can see the slip stitches on one side. Aim to make this the wrong side where possible and in some of the patterns below, I do point out which is the right side but in the case of the Yarn Over Sl St pattern, my favourite side of that stitch happens to show the slip stitch joins. Ah well, you can’t win them all. But, this is why it’s a good idea to use the same colour for the foundation, it hides your sins….

Please note that for all of the stitch patterns included here, I haven’t paid much attention to stitch multiples. I’m often happy to fudge the row I end on. I hope you’re not outraged. I am better behaved in my published patterns, I promise!

Gudrun, a crochet shawl with granny stitch motif and hdc Join As You Go Ribbing.
Gudrun Shawl with US hdc front third loop ribbing

How Many Stitches Do you Need For Crochet Ribbing?

The number of chains you need to start your Join As You Go Ribbing is entirely up to you. The patterns here have been lifted from some of my designs and they have been written for different yarn weights and with different design elements in mind. Also, the depth of your ribbing will mostly depend on your aesthetic and what you think looks best.

However, as a general rule, I use fewer chains for heavier weights of yarn. The buttonband for the Perfect cardigan, which is an aran weight garment, has about 8 sts. My Little Fluffy Clouds cardigan is crocheted with DK yarn and there are a couple more stitches for a (roughly) similar depth.

Make a swatch and decide how many stitches look the best for what you’d like the ribbing for.

Which Stitch Pattern is Best for Crochet Ribbing

I cover more on this in my first crochet ribbing blog post but a lot of it is down to personal preference as well as what you’re using it for. This is just my opinion but if you accept that it doesn’t quite grip or stretch like a knitted rib does, then you won’t be disappointed.

Do you want your crochet ribbing to be easy to work up? Look great? Have some stretch?
Each of these factors is impacted by the stitch that you choose. If you’re using only slip stitches in the back loop only, they’re more stretchy so have great functionality; they look awesome as well. But they’re also fiddly and require consistent tension. If it’s a beginner project then single crochet back loop only (blo or BLO) would be a good choice. That’s why I’ve included the latter here but if you read the other blog post, you’ll know it’s not actually one I like very much…

How Many Slip Stitches Should I Join With?

The number of slip stitches required for anchoring to the foundation row depends on a couple of different factors:
Do you want it to be flat or flared? The stitches you’ve chosen to use, how wide are they?

The wider the stitch, the more slip stitches you should use. This is why some of my patterns use three slip stitches and others, only two.

Take a look at my colourful crochet sweater, Milis (pic below). It has Join As You Go Ribbing at the neckline, waistband and cuffs. The stitch pattern uses a combo on US hdc / UK htr and slip stitches. There’s approx 5cm positive ease in this sweater which is less than other designs I’ve made. I was a bit worried that adding shaping at the waist and cuffs (by cinching it in) would affect the fit so the ribbing here is flat/inline with the sweater.

Conversely, I dislike fitted, tight necklines, I feel strangled. Therefore, I often design open necks with lots of breathing space. Milis had lots of that but I needed to be careful. Too much space and it’d end up as an off-the-shoulder top, which was not the intention. All of this to say, I used the same stitch pattern throughout but for the cuffs and waist, I attached the ribbing with two slip stitches; at the neckline, I used three.

This simple change gathered the neckline just enough so that it fits just like Goldilocks. Not too big and not too small.

Milis, Colourful Crochet sweater. I used Join AS You Go Ribbing

The JAYG Stitch Patterns

The Easiest JAYG Ribbing

Let’s start with the most simple stitch pattern for Join As You Go Ribbing. It’s all worked with US single crochet stitches / UK dc stitches. Both sides of the ribbing are the same and it’s all worked in the back loop only.

Pattern (US terms are used – my UK friends probably know that a US sc is a UK dc):
Chain 13 (or however many stitches you like). For this starting chain, work into the back bumps.
Row 1: 1sc in 2nd ch from hook, 11sc, sl st in next 2 sts of foundation round, turn. [12 sts]
Row 2: Miss 2 sl sts, 12sc BLO, turn.
Row 3: 1ch, 12sc BLO, sl st in next 2 sts of foundation round, turn.
Row 4 & 5: Rep Row 2 & 3.

The Road To Nowhere is an asymmetric crochet shawl that uses US sc / UK dc in the back loop only. The JAYG ribbing is worked all around the outside in painstaking fashion. Yes, it took ages. Yes, it’s so worth it!

The Front Third Loop Rib

I really love this one! Look at the tidy button band of the Perfect Cardigan (pictured below), it’s so pleasing!

What’s the front third loop?! Instead of working under the 2 loops that form a “V” at the top of the stitch, insert hook in the horizontal loop that sits at the front of the stitch below the “V”.  This pushes the stitch forward to produce a rib-like effect.

Pattern:
With right side facing, attach the yarn to your project. For the starting chain, work into the back bumps.
Chain 8.
Row 1: 1hdc (a UK htr) in 2nd ch from hook, 6hdc to end, 3 sl sts into next 3 sts of main body, turn. 7 sts
Row 2: Miss 3 sl sts. Working in the front 3rd loop (here & throughout) 7hdc, turn.
Row 3: 1ch, 7hdc,  3 sl sts into next 3 sts of body, turn.
Repeat Rows 2 & 3.

The Perfect Cardigan uses a US hdc in the front thrid loop for the button band
The Perfect Crochet Cardigan!

Yarn Over Slip Stitch Ribbing

This ribbing uses a combination of yarn over slip stitches (YO sl st – aka a US hdc/ UK htr slip stitch) and regular slip stitches, all in the back loop only.

Pattern:
Chain 10 or however many stitches you like.
Row 1 (w/s): Working in back bumps,  YO sl st in second ch from hook, YO sl st to end, sl st in next 2 sts of foundation row, turn – 9 sts.
Row 2 (r/s): Miss 2 sl sts, 9sl sts BLO, turn.
Row 3: ch1, 9YO slst BLO, sl st in next 2 sts of foundation row, turn.
Rep Rows 2 & 3 to end. 
Fasten off.

If you’re interested in a tidying tweak for this ribbing pattern, on the last slip stitch of Row 2, work into both loops. Whilst not necessary, I think it creates a neater edge.

Little FLuffy Clouds Cardigan
Granny quare Sweater. Sleeves with join as you go ribbing on cuffs
Little Fluffy Clouds, a crochet cardigan with JAYG Ribbing

What About Creating Corners?

It took me a while to work out the best number of repeats. It depends on how acute your corner is but you can use JAYG ribbing around corners. Not only did I do this in the Road to Nowhere shawl, I also added ribbing to my Gudrun shawl, which was designed especially for the first issue of Moorit magazine.

When working the initial foundation row/round, make sure to have three stitches in a corner. The increase rows will be worked over those three stitches. Or if you prefer, play around with a number of increase rows that’s going to work best for your design.

Join As You Go Around a Corner

The below is pilfered from Road to Nowhere and uses single crochet BLO. Potentially, for other stitch patterns, this may be too many increases. You can also try other ribbing stitch patterns too. For example, Gudrun uses the front third loop rib around the outside.

Pattern:
Work in a 2-row stitch pattern of your choice until you get to the first stitch of a corner. Work 1 sl st into the first corner st.
Corner st 1: rep your two-row stitch pattern three times – sl st in same st after first two repeats, sl st in next st on last row of final rep.
Corner st 2: rep your two-row stitch pattern three times – sl st in same st after first two repeats, sl st in next st on last row of final rep.
Corner st 3: rep your two-row stitch pattern three times – sl st in same st after first two repeats, sl st in next st on last row of final rep.
Corner complete.

And that’s it! As always, I can write a lot about crochet! I hope you find these stitch patterns useful. Are you a fan of Join As You Go crochet ribbing?! What do you use it for?

Whilst I’ve linked to Ravelry for the patterns above, you can also find my crochet designs in my Etsy shop and Lovecrafts.

For more Crochet Tips and Tricks, take a look HERE. And, as always, don’t forget to check out my Free Crochet Patterns Page here.
Cheers! xx