Despite the fact that I don’t get the chance very often, I do love putting together a crochet podcast. I love watching them too (by other crocheting podcasters, I’m not gonna sit through hours of my own gas bagging – awkward!). Also, if you’re a fan of granny crochet, now is the time to give them a go because Episode 104 is all about granny projects!
So, get yourself a cup of tea, gather up your favourite WIP and try a crochet podcast. Hop across to Youtube and relax for half an hour or so…
Read on for links to crochet patterns, designs and anything else that you might find interesting.
Find Crochet Good Stuff
Firstly, I am currently knee deep in granny blanket making. A blog post is coming soon about how you can make your own colourful crochet project. I will pool together resources as much as possible. So far you can find…
Yarn Substitution for crochet projects – find out more about alternatives if you don’t want to use the yarn in my blankets (I have used Paintbox Woolmix DK and King Cole Majestic, more on that at a later date).
Coming soon: A mattress stitch tutorial so you can sew your granny squares together.
Coming soon: Not mentioned because I forgot; I should do a tutorial for the border as well!
You can find my Starburst Cowl (a pretty granny square pattern – see pics below) in my Ravelry store, where it can be saved to your library, or it’s also in my Etsy shop for crochet patterns.
I chatted about a couple of other granny stitch projects in this crochet podcast. scroll down to have a look, watch the episode to find out whta’s going on with them!
OK, so I didn’t crochet a wedding dress for my sister, but I did design and create the top half! If you’d like help with making your own unique crochet bridal top, read on…
First things first, I have two little sisters. One was the bride: Cassie, and the other: Letitia (aka Tishie), was the seamstress and she made the coordinating bridal skirt.
This post is about the initial design process of working out how to make a crochet wedding dress (Yes I know, it’s just the top/bodice, but I got into the habit of saying we were making a dress, so “dress” has stuck I’m afraid). The plan is to write a separate blog post for beyond the design stage (part 2 will be blocking, lining, finishing touches etc).
I took a heck of a lot of photographs of the making process but not so many of the big day itself (I was too busy stuffing my face with canapes). I will try and blag some photos later so you can see the outfit in more detail. Fingers crossed!
Inspiration for Designing A Crochet Wedding Outfit
It must have been around a year or so ago that Cassie asked me to make part of her wedding outfit. At the beginning, it felt like we had bags of time and ordinarily it is an excellent idea to plan the making of a crochet wedding dress as early as possible. There are lots of aspects you need to consider. Time, for example, is essential not just for the crocheting part but for all the swatching, measuring and calculations etc.
However, despite a fantastically early start, I couldn’t do all of it straightaway because Cassie had also announced that she was pregnant!
Research and planning were still very much possible though. Therefore, in July 2023 we had our first meeting on the Isle of Wight where I was on holiday with my Mum, my brother and his family (plus my crew). Cassie and Tishie joined us for a tasty family lunch in a little railway restaurant in Yarmouth. I brought a bundle of yarn options and a few stitch dictionaries so that Cassie could thumb through everything to bookmark favourites. It was good to get the ball rolling ASAP. It was quite exciting too.
Find Pictures for Design Inspiration
The happy bride in the above picture is the original source of inspiration. The picture shows an elegant, close fitting wedding bodice with a high neckline and long sleeves. Cassie sent me a small, blurry pic on What’s App and asked if I could make something like it. Challenge accepted!
My first port of call was a Ravelry visit to see if a crochet pattern like it already existed. Ravelry is such a good platform for finding knitting and crochet patterns and hours can be spent trawling through awesome designs. This time though, Ravelry didn’t bring up anything similar. I am guessing here but wonder if most crochet wedding dresses are bespoke?
As the most exciting patterns I found on Ravelry were cats in wedding dresses I moved focus to Pinterest. It always comes to the rescue! I did a deep dive and found other images of THE outfit, which helped to work out the top construction. Pinterest is a great source for discovering all kinds of crochet wedding dress styles, stitch patterns and crochet charts.
Pinterest Board of Crochet Wedding Dreams
If you have no clue where to start when it comes to designing crochet garments, Pinterest is an excellent first choice. I put together a thorough Pinterest board of crochet wedding inspiration, HERE. Hopefully, this will give you some fabulous crochet wedding ideas as well.
On that Pinterest board you’ll find loads of pretty bridal images and loads of beautiful crochet dresses. They’re all ideas I wanted to discuss with Cassie so she could tell me what she did and didn’t like. We eliminated a lot and it made focus so much easier; I’d had lot of the ideas flying around in my creative brain.
Seeing as the original inspiration isn’t crochet, we needed a stitch pattern that would go some way to replicate the diamondy lace. Therefore, you’ll find ideas for crochet stitch patterns. And lastly, I got a bit trigger-happy on pinning crochet charts. Charts make life immensely easy when it comes to stitch patterns and working out shaping. Although, please note that I didn’t copy any of them for construction purposes. This is a made-to-measure crochet wedding dress and I created my own (there’s more chart chat further down the post).
Considering Other Design Elements
Mood board sorted, there were also a couple of other elements to consider for the design.
When making an outfit for another person, communication is key. We discussed all kinds of different ideas so I would know for sure what the vision was. And it wasn’t just crochet talk. Cassie, Tishie and I had a What’s App group so we could talk about colours, fabrics, yarn choices, measurements… Lots of questions were asked, even down to what kind of trainers might go well (sparkly gold ones, for the evening).
It isn’t just about one element but about how they’re all going to come together. One decision might impact another so it’s a good idea that everyone involved is on the same page.
Even if Cassie said she didn’t really mind and gave me loads of creative freedom, it was still wise to cement some definites. Funnily enough, I can’t remember what the absolutes were now. I think it was the open back, long sleeves and easy access for breastfeeding. And then, through swatching, I learned that she preferred plainer geometric stitch patterns rather than lacy styles.
Easily Adjustable Crochet Top
Seeing as a baby was on the way, we had to think of what a post-pregnancy wedding outfit might need to include.
Because she was growing a baby, the bride’s measurements were going to change quite a bit over the months leading up the the wedding, which meant measurements were postponed until as late as possible. The final design also needed to factor in lunch, dinner, and snacks for a 6 month-old baby. I added ties at the back of the neck so that they could be adjusted easily according to fit, and the waistband had poppers so it could be undone to allow for easy access to feeding. I am pleased to report that Baby M was very well-fed on the day; the top did not stand in her way at all.
Swatching for Pretty Crochet Stitch Patterns
I came back from the Isle of Wight trip in July with bookmarks in all the pages of the stitch dictionaries. I then left them in the bottom of my crochet basket until October. In the half-term holiday, my family and I drove up to the Highlands of Scotland to stay with Cassie and James. It was Halloween and by then she was starting to look like a pumpkin, which is what you get if you wear orange t-shirts at 8 months.
I had told myself that one of the reasons to visit was to show her a big bundle of different swatches so she could choose favourites. I think I’d managed to complete two by then. Tishie was there as well so I’m sure we must have chatted at length about handmade wedding dresses and things. I don’t recall. Oh well, it was a lovely holiday.
A Swatch Consultation With the Bride
Roll on a few more months and it was time to start properly planning in earnest. No more delays or distractions. With a rucksack of swatches this time, in February I booked a flight to Inverness so we could make some final decisions.
None of the first batch of crochet swatches passed muster. They were too open, too lacy, a bit too flouncy. Some pattern repeats were too big, some overly complicated and some had unexpected little faces in the patterns. However, we eliminated a lot of styles and that was super useful. That weekend, the yarn was chosen and new swatches were worked up over the breakfast table. Crochet cogs were now in motion.
Yarn For A Crochet Wedding Dress
I didn’t really know where to start in terms of the yarn to choose to crochet something bridal. Initial conversations determined that 4ply cotton yarn might be a good place to start so I ordered a few different yarn choices online. I listened to my own advice on yarn substitutionto help with that too.
After all the swatching, in all the different yarn choices, we narrowed it down to two. Rowan Summerlite 4ply and DMC Petra in size 3. Both in shades of Ecru.
We preferred the Rowan Summerlite 4ply. It’s twice the price of the DMC Petra. It feels like excellent quality because it is excellent quality. Unfortunately, the shade didn’t work. Not to mention the softness of the yarn made it very absorbent. Any spills would have soaked in immediately. The Northcotts are a messy family and we knew it was inevitable that Cassie would spill something down herself.
DMC Petra is a shiny, mercerised cotton, which we thought would be better at shaking off spills. The slightly golden colour was spot on too. I used one ball for lots of swatching, then purchased five for the final piece, which was plenty.
We had a sample of the skirt fabric to match with as well.
Should You Use a Finer Yarn for Finer Crochet Garments?
If I was more dexterous and had more time, I think I would have been tempted to use a size 5 Petra yarn rather than the 3 as it would have made a much finer and more delicate garment. My poor fingers though… I was already using a 2mm crochet hook with the size 3 yarn. The making process would have taken too long as finer yarn means more work.
Finer yarn would have affected the look of the stitch patterns too. For example, the diamond shapes on the main body would have come up smaller and I would have had to adjust the pattern repeats to make them look right. To be frank, that would have been too much fannying around.
It is absolutely worth considering finer yarn though. I think it would create beautiful crochet fabric for bridal wear. It just wasn’t possible for this project.
A Made to Measure Crochet Bodice
I may have mentioned once or twice in other blog posts that maths and I are not friends. I am not algebraically blessed but in spite of frequent numeric nightmares, I have learned to respect a spreadsheet.
And you should see the spreadsheet I put together for this one teeny little top! I’m talking at least 150 rows of numbers. It is a lot but I adopted a very strict measure-twice-crochet-once approach.
I began with the standard Craft Yarn Council guide as a starting point but made-to-measure means you get the actual measurements directly from the body you’re making a garment for. In terms of how much information you need to design a made-to-measure crochet wedding dress, a good rule of thumb is: the more the merrier! I did fly back home without a couple of crucial measurements, which was a bit daft. Got them via our What’s App chat a week later.
Quite a bit of research went into how best to measure a body to make your own clothes. I watched a lot of videos about drafting sewing patterns and knitting patterns as there isn’t as much when it comes to designing crochet clothes. I’ve noted some resources below – they’re knitting books and videos.
Drawing daft sketches to work out measurements
How Much Ease to Add For Fitted Crochet Top?
When you’re doing made-to-measure, you also need to consider fit. How much “ease” will you apply to your measurements? Do you want the garment to be very fitted and therefore have negative ease? Or, do you want to add extra room for loose fit crochet clothes and have positive ease? Choices, choices…
Cotton yarn doesn’t have ping or stretch, especially in crochet. Once it’s blocked into shape, it probably won’t change much more. That meant I wanted to avoid negative ease as Cassie wouldn’t have been able to move. In the end, I opted for 2-4 cm positive ease to add to her actual body measurements. I adjusted this where necessary, tweaking places where the stitch count or pattern repeats dictated how much it would actually be.
More than 4cm and it wouldn’t have been a “fitted” top. However, it is difficult to judge exactly how much ease was in the final garment because Cassie lost weight. Post-pregnancy weight loss was always a possibility, it’s why I made things adjustable. But I am disappointed she didn’t eat more biscuits and cake to maintain the same shape once she’d had her measurements taken.
Using Charts to Draft a Crochet Pattern
With all the numbers plugged in and stitch counts calculated, I was ready to start drafting the shaping of the main body and sleeves. Using Stitchfiddle, I drew up the main body and sleeve stitch patterns to print and scribble on. These charts meant I had a visual guide to follow when crocheting.
Charts have been a lifesaver actually. I wouldn’t have trusted my brain without seeing what the numbers had come up with. Spreadsheet maths allows me to calculate the number of stitches and rows needed for each part of the garment whether it’s the upper arm, wrist, waist or bust etc. The charts show me how it all correlates and where I should make potential increases and/or decreases.
I won’t show you everything because I don’t want to give away too many secrets! However, below are some rough drawings and charts to show my chaotic thought processes.
Crochet Set-in Sleeves
I spent most of my time working out the set in sleeves. A set-in sleeve is more fitted and tailored than other sleeve styles. At the top, it has a curved cap that sits neatly and accurately into an armhole that has the same measurements as the perimeter of the cap.
I had never designed a set-in sleeve crochet garment before and it’s hard to find definitive facts on the best way. I am certainly more comfortable with a casual “drop sleeve”. If you have any hot tips on this, please show me where to find them!
My favourite videos were a short series of knitting tutorials by Suzanne Bryan. There was some really useful information about body measurements and great details about set-in sleeves. I watched the videos religiously and used the body measurement advice to help build my spreadsheet.
I also used two knitting books which had more dreaded maths for me to get my head around. Both had their own take on the best way to work out the formulae for knitted set-in sleeves. Given that they both have different advice, I sort of aimed somewhere between the two and went with my gut a little bit as well. Gosh, it’s difficult though! Seeing as there isn’t one agreed way, I wonder if many designers plump for an empirical approach instead?
Both of these knitting books cover an extraordinary amount of information about all garment construction. Wouldn’t it be amazing if such a book existed for crochet?! Do you know of any?
These knitting books have information about designing set-in sleeves. Knitwear Design Workshop by Shirley Paden and Knitting Pattern Essentials by Sally Melville.
A Mock Up on a Form
At the same time as messing about with charts, I also drew up the measurements on paper to create rudimentary pattern pieces. I’m glad I did this step as it was enormously helpful.
What I haven’t mentioned thus far is that from the week after I left her in Februry, to a week or two before the wedding on June 1st, Cassie was off galivanting across the world. We couldn’t do fittings for the dress!
I worried slightly but perhaps not as much as I could have. Just look at my band of helpers pictured below. Tishie had two borrowed dressmaker’s dummies so I paid a visit to the New Forest, to Dad’s house, so I could use them. Turns out neither of them could be adjusted to Cassie’s size but nevermind, one provided a similar enough shape for me to drape parcel-taped calico across its polka dot form. It was a much needed step as I went away with a few redrafts.
It was also an opportunity to see how the skirt and top might look when together. Definitely a helpful stage.
Tishie has similar arms to Cassie so I used her to determine if I was on the right path for the sleeves. Another boon. I added an additional cm in length and width thanks to that try-on. Mr PP, the boer goat, was totally useless. He just walked over everything and stank of pee.
Time to Crochet A Wedding Dress!
With the yarn and stitches worked out, measurements written down and charts drawn up, it was time to get making. I was really looking forward to starting but simultaneously terrified. It could all go horribly wrong! However, by the time all of the above had been titivated to the point of excess, it was April. Time to pick up the crochet hook!
In the next blog post about how I designed a crochet wedding dress, I’ll talk more about the chosen stitch patterns (there are four of them!) and how they all came together. And I’d better not forget to mention the details such as the buttons and lining.
I’ll also aim to answer any questions, if you have them?
I know I haven’t told you about Tishie’s beautifully layered, silk and tulle skirt here (it was delicate and floaty and works so so well with the top). Combined, everything worked out just as we’d hoped. Oh, and Cassie crocheted a tie for James in matching colours! It was a proper team effort.
And before I leave Part 1, here are a few takeaways for making a crochet wedding dress.
1: Measure twice, thrice, four times, crochet once.
2: Make a mock-up out of cheap fabric, it is a very useful step.
3: If the bride has a baby whilst you’re crocheting her dress/top, make it adjustable!
4: If you can, ensure the bride is available to try on the outfit a few weeks before it’s needed. You might need to make adjustments.
Mr PP investigating the important work of a crochet designer.
This morning, my phone reminded me that three years ago today I was putting the finishing touches to this striped crochet shawl pattern. Times flies…
I designed Decked Out to be just like deck chair fabric. It was the design idea for a magazine commission all about going to the beach. I think it fits the brief quite nicely.
Three years ago we were going away for a sunny weekend in Cornwall. I’m not usually brave enough to take crochet commissions on holiday but I think I’d left it very late and I was dancing pretty close to the deadline. I needed it done ASAP so it travelled with us, a few hours away, just a little bit deeper into the West Country.
Don’t worry, it didn’t get sand on it. I left it at the B&B when we went to the beach!
Decked Out; A Striped Shawl Pattern
To celebrate its birthday, I’m releasing Decked Out for the first time since it appeared in Inside Crochet magazine. And if that’s not exciting enough, it’s right here on the blog now too! Keep scrolling for the striped shawl pattern full of bright, fun colour blocking. Or, you can buy both ad free UK and US versions of the pattern over on Ravelry, or in my Etsy store.
Oky doky, this is a lovely and simple shawl for those who fancy something a little bit more than basic stitches.
I used two kinds of stitches in this crochet design. The majority of the main body uses one of my favourites, the UK half treble / US half double worked in the front third loop. It creates beautiful ridges that provide a gorgeous texture. Then I finished it off with a classic rib of post stitches. If you have the yarn spare, add another couple of rows. I think it’s look really good.
What Yarn etc Do You Need for Your Crochet Shawl?
The yarn I used to make the Decked Out shawl is Milla Mia Sweden, Naturally Soft Merino. It’s 100% Superwash merino, 50g/ 125m/ 136yds which is sold as a sport weight yarn.
I used this soft and squishy yarn with a 3.5mm hook. I didn’t do a gauge swatch as tension doesn’t really matter for this shawl. But as you work your shawl, pay attention to the feel of the fabric. You’ll know if it looks too loose or feels too stiff. If you don’t like the squish of the fabric, just try a different hook size.
If you can’t get hold of the yarn I used, read all about Yarn Substitution to find an alternative that will work for you.
Special Stitches Needed for Your Shawl
UKhdc / US htr in 3rd front loop only: instead of working under the 2 loops that form a “V” at top of st, insert hook in horizontal loop that sits at front of st below the “V”.
For the visual learners amongst you, check out my free pattern for a chunky scarfthat uses the same stitch. That’s the link to the video tutorial.
Abbreviations – US terms
BPdc = back post double, ch = chain, ch-sp = chain space, dc = double crochet, FPdc = front post double, hdc = half double, st(s) = stitch(es), sp(s) = space(s), sl st = slip stitch.
Notes Before You Begin
The following striped shawl pattern is in US terms but if you buy the ad free PDF version, it comes in both US & UK terms.
Please note that I haven’t included where to change colour within the written pattern. Instead, there is a chart (below) that will tell you how often you need to change colour. It also includes the stitch count for the end of every colour change (it’s the stitch count for the last row of each colour used).
If you love the crochet ribbing and want to explore it further, take a look at my post all about the best crochet ribbing!
With YA make a magic circle, or ch4 and join with a sl st. Row 1: 1ch (does not count as a stitch here & throughout), 1dc, 2hdc, 2ch, 2hdc, 1dc in magic circle, turn – 3 sts per side.
Row 2: 1ch, (1dc, 2hdc) in first dc, hdc to center, (1hdc, 2ch, 1hdc) in 2ch-sp, hdc to last st, (2hdc, 1dc) in last dc, turn – 6 sts per side.
Row 3: 1ch, (1dc, 2hdc) in first dc, hdc in front 3rd loop to center, (1hdc, 2ch, 1hdc) in 2ch-sp, hdc in front 3rd loop to last st, (2hdc, 1dc) in last dc, turn – 9 sts per side and increasing by 3 sts per side every row.
Continue in pattern, following chart (below) for color order/stripe sequence.
Row 4 – 67: Rep row 3 – 201 sts.
Edging Row 68: 1ch, 3dc in first st, [2FPdc, 2BPdc] to center 2ch-sp, (2dc, 2ch, 2dc) in 2ch-sp, [2BPdc, 2FPdc] to last st, 3dc in last st, turn – 205 sts, increasing by 4 sts per side.
Row 69 – 71: Rep 68 – 217 sts.
Fasten off and sew in ends.
Block using preferred method.
Follow This Colour Chart
In the PDF pattern you can purchase, this helpful chart is colour coded to make it a little bit easier to follow. It’s still not difficult but I like it to be pretty!
Rows
Yarn
St count @ end of colour block.
1 – 12
A
36
13 – 16
B
48
17 – 20
C
60
21 – 24
D
72
25 – 32
E
96
33 – 36
F
108
37 – 44
G
132
45 – 52
D
156
53 – 56
A
168
57 – 58
E
175
59 – 66
C
198
67 – 71
B
217
And it’s as simple as that! I hope you like this striped shawl pattern. Let me know if you make it and add it to your Ravelry project page too.
Join As You Go Ribbing, or JAYG ribbing is an excellent technique you can use with all sorts of crochet projects. Its meaning is literal; as you work your ribbing, up and down, you anchor it to a main piece of crochet fabric with a couple of slip stitches every other row.
I have used a few different stitch patterns for Join As You Go ribbing and now have my favourites (I’ll share a few stitch patterns below). JAYG is perfect for crochet sweaters and cardigans, you can use it for the waistband, neck band and cuffs. It also works brilliantly for a blanket or shawl border.
I often find that the starting point is the fiddliest bit of many crochet patterns and that’s true here, I’m afraid. But as is normal, after a couple of goes it becomes much easier and you’ll have wondered why you were so worried about trying it in the first place!
To take away any confusion, I have also put together a video tutorial showing three ways to work Join As You Go Ribbing.This includescrocheting ribbing around a corner!
There is very little restriction on what ribbing stitch patterns you can use for Join As You Go, it’s entirely up to you but I will share a few of my favourites that you may want to try on your own crochet items.
With any of these patterns, you’ll want a round/row of foundation stitches to work into. It’s best that this is in the same yarn and same colour as the ribbing or main fabric because it will help blend the joining stitches tidily. Obviously, this depends on what you determine to be the right side or wrong side. Experiment with a swatch before you embark on your actual project to work out what side you’d like to start on.
Even if the stitch patterns themselves look the same on both sides, where they’re joined to the fabric you can see the slip stitches on one side. Aim to make this the wrong side where possible and in some of the patterns below, I do point out which is the right side but in the case of the Yarn Over Sl St pattern, my favourite side of that stitch happens to show the slip stitch joins. Ah well, you can’t win them all. But, this is why it’s a good idea to use the same colour for the foundation, it hides your sins….
Please note that for all of the stitch patterns included here, I haven’t paid much attention to stitch multiples. I’m often happy to fudge the row I end on. I hope you’re not outraged. I am better behaved in my published patterns, I promise!
Gudrun Shawl with US hdc front third loop ribbing
How Many Stitches Do you Need For Crochet Ribbing?
The number of chains you need to start your Join As You Go Ribbing is entirely up to you. The patterns here have been lifted from some of my designs and they have been written for different yarn weights and with different design elements in mind. Also, the depth of your ribbing will mostly depend on your aesthetic and what you think looks best.
However, as a general rule, I use fewer chains for heavier weights of yarn. The buttonband for the Perfect cardigan, which is an aran weight garment, has about 8 sts. My Little Fluffy Cloudscardigan is crocheted with DK yarn and there are a couple more stitches for a (roughly) similar depth.
Make a swatch and decide how many stitches look the best for what you’d like the ribbing for.
Which Stitch Pattern is Best for Crochet Ribbing
I cover more on this in my first crochet ribbing blog post but a lot of it is down to personal preference as well as what you’re using it for. This is just my opinion but if you accept that it doesn’t quite grip or stretch like a knitted rib does, then you won’t be disappointed.
Do you want your crochet ribbing to be easy to work up? Look great? Have some stretch? Each of these factors is impacted by the stitch that you choose. If you’re using only slip stitches in the back loop only, they’re more stretchy so have great functionality; they look awesome as well. But they’re also fiddly and require consistent tension. If it’s a beginner project then single crochet back loop only (blo or BLO) would be a good choice. That’s why I’ve included the latter here but if you read the other blog post, you’ll know it’s not actually one I like very much…
How Many Slip Stitches Should I Join With?
The number of slip stitches required for anchoring to the foundation row depends on a couple of different factors: Do you want it to be flat or flared? The stitches you’ve chosen to use, how wide are they?
The wider the stitch, the more slip stitches you should use. This is why some of my patterns use three slip stitches and others, only two.
Take a look at my colourful crochet sweater, Milis (pic below). It has Join As You Go Ribbing at the neckline, waistband and cuffs. The stitch pattern uses a combo on US hdc / UK htr and slip stitches. There’s approx 5cm positive ease in this sweater which is less than other designs I’ve made. I was a bit worried that adding shaping at the waist and cuffs (by cinching it in) would affect the fit so the ribbing here is flat/inline with the sweater.
Conversely, I dislike fitted, tight necklines, I feel strangled. Therefore, I often design open necks with lots of breathing space. Milis had lots of that but I needed to be careful. Too much space and it’d end up as an off-the-shoulder top, which was not the intention. All of this to say, I used the same stitch pattern throughout but for the cuffs and waist, I attached the ribbing with two slip stitches; at the neckline, I used three.
This simple change gathered the neckline just enough so that it fits just like Goldilocks. Not too big and not too small.
The JAYG Stitch Patterns
The Easiest JAYG Ribbing
Let’s start with the most simple stitch pattern for Join As You Go Ribbing. It’s all worked with US single crochet stitches / UK dc stitches. Both sides of the ribbing are the same and it’s all worked in the back loop only.
Pattern (US terms are used – my UK friends probably know that a US sc is a UK dc): Chain 13 (or however many stitches you like). For this starting chain, work into the back bumps. Row 1: 1sc in 2nd ch from hook, 11sc, sl st in next 2 sts of foundation round, turn. [12 sts] Row 2: Miss 2 sl sts, 12sc BLO, turn. Row 3: 1ch, 12sc BLO, sl st in next 2 sts of foundation round, turn. Row 4 & 5: Rep Row 2 & 3.
The Road To Nowhere is an asymmetric crochet shawl that uses US sc / UK dc in the back loop only. The JAYG ribbing is worked all around the outside in painstaking fashion. Yes, it took ages. Yes, it’s so worth it!
The Front Third Loop Rib
I really love this one! Look at the tidy button band of the Perfect Cardigan (pictured below), it’s so pleasing!
What’s the front third loop?! Instead of working under the 2 loops that form a “V” at the top of the stitch, insert hook in the horizontal loop that sits at the front of the stitch below the “V”. This pushes the stitch forward to produce a rib-like effect.
Pattern: With right side facing, attach the yarn to your project. For the starting chain, work into the back bumps. Chain 8. Row 1: 1hdc (a UK htr) in 2nd ch from hook, 6hdc to end, 3 sl sts into next 3 sts of main body, turn. 7 sts Row 2: Miss 3 sl sts.Working in the front 3rd loop (here & throughout) 7hdc, turn. Row 3: 1ch, 7hdc, 3 sl sts into next 3 sts of body, turn. Repeat Rows 2 & 3.
The Perfect Crochet Cardigan!
Yarn Over Slip Stitch Ribbing
This ribbing uses a combination of yarn over slip stitches (YO sl st – aka a US hdc/ UK htr slip stitch) and regular slip stitches, all in the back loop only.
Pattern: Chain 10 or however many stitches you like. Row 1 (w/s): Working in back bumps, YO sl st in second ch from hook, YO sl st to end, sl st in next 2 sts of foundation row, turn – 9 sts. Row 2 (r/s): Miss 2 sl sts, 9sl sts BLO, turn. Row 3: ch1, 9YO slst BLO, sl st in next 2 sts of foundation row, turn. Rep Rows 2 & 3 to end. Fasten off.
If you’re interested in a tidying tweak for this ribbing pattern, on the last slip stitch of Row 2, work into both loops. Whilst not necessary, I think it creates a neater edge.
What About Creating Corners?
It took me a while to work out the best number of repeats. It depends on how acute your corner is but you can use JAYG ribbing around corners. Not only did I do this in the Road to Nowhere shawl, I also added ribbing to myGudrun shawl, which was designed especially for the first issue of Moorit magazine.
When working the initial foundation row/round, make sure to have three stitches in a corner. The increase rows will be worked over those three stitches. Or if you prefer, play around with a number of increase rows that’s going to work best for your design.
Join As You Go Around a Corner
The below is pilfered from Road to Nowhere and uses single crochet BLO. Potentially, for other stitch patterns, this may be too many increases. You can also try other ribbing stitch patterns too. For example, Gudrun uses the front third loop rib around the outside.
Pattern: Work in a 2-row stitch pattern of your choice until you get to the first stitch of a corner. Work 1 sl st into the first corner st. Corner st 1: rep your two-row stitch pattern three times – sl st in same st after first two repeats, sl st in next st on last row of final rep. Corner st 2: rep your two-row stitch pattern three times – sl st in same st after first two repeats, sl st in next st on last row of final rep. Corner st 3: rep your two-row stitch pattern three times – sl st in same st after first two repeats, sl st in next st on last row of final rep. Corner complete.
And that’s it! As always, I can write a lot about crochet! I hope you find these stitch patterns useful. Are you a fan of Join As You Go crochet ribbing?! What do you use it for?
Whilst I’ve linked to Ravelry for the patterns above, you can also find my crochet designs in my Etsy shop and Lovecrafts.
This is one of my earliest designs from 2017, a striped crochet shawl that I put together after visiting my first ever yarn festival. I made two versions, one from with yarn I purchased at the Edinburgh Yarn Festival (EYF) and one I made at the request of my bestest friend.
This is a fabulous beginner project for new crocheters too. The shawl is crocheted sideways from one point to the other. Simple increases build to the centre of the shawl and then decreases work their way back to the other end.
I absolutely love this shawl! The colours speak for themselves, I didn’t want fancy stitches overshadowing their awesomeness. The simple striped stitch pattern means that this is a super relaxing project too. The results are contemporary and sophisticated.
Scroll down to grab the free pattern, or you can buy a PDF version in my Raverly shop and it is also available in myEtsy shop if you prefer. And whilst you’re here, don’t pass up the opportunity to peruse my other free crochet patterns too!
Using Tonal Yarn in Crochet
The yarn I bought from EYF 2017 was three skeins of sport weight merino from Dandelion Yarns (320m/350 yards approx per 100g). I think it was called Rosy Sport. It was probably one of my first proper splurges on indie dyed yarn. I remember my sister being shocked that I was willing to buy three skeins of yarn without a crochet pattern in mind!
The tonal quality of the hand dyed yarn works beautifully in this triangle shawl design. I think it’s semi tonal yarn, it could be more of a semi solid. I understand the difference is quite subtle but I always forget exactly what it is, oops! Either way, the subtle changes in tint work well for a shawl using UK treble/US double stitches. You can see the different tones but it’s not overwhelming the simplicity of the design. I reckon that anything more than a speckled yarn you’d get a lot of colour pooling.
All of that to say, I was very much drawn to the delicate tone changes in the skein. It works very well in crochet. However, if you’re a fan of more variegated yarns, you could use them for the contrast stripes for a not so busy pattern.
Using Other Yarns
A plain striped crochet shawl also works wonders with solid or marled colours too. For the orange and grey shawl, I used Drops cotton merino, which is a DK (50g/110m). If I remember rightly, I think some shades had a slight marl to them (one of the greys, for sure). I chose that yarn as I was given the brief by my bestie for something that wouldn’t itch but was warm. A cotton/merino blend was spot on for this request. However, I needed more of the main colour than I originally assumed; it didn’t go as far because DK is a heavier weight of yarn than sport.
This shawl design is versatile, you can use all sorts of alternative yarns. It would work just as well in an acrylic. However, please bear in mind that using other yarns could have an impact on drape and size. Of the two shawls I made, one was a sport weight yarn and the other a DK. Because DK is a heavier weight, the shawl is larger. And remember that if using different weight yarn, use the appropriate size of crochet hook.
If you’d like to know more about the kind of yarn to use in your crochet projects, check out my blog post about Yarn Substitution HERE.
How Much Yarn Do You Need For A Striped Crochet Shawl?
I used three skeins of Dandelion Yarns Rosy Sport to make the blue, grey and neon triangular shawl and it measures approximately 237xm (93.5inches) in length and 49cm (19 inches) at its widest.
Whilst gauge isn’t critical for this project it will affect how much yarn you need. Most of one skein is needed for the main colour (grey, in this case) but you’ll only need approx 70gr each of the other two colours. (I’d say my tension is average to loose).
For the orange Urban Stripe shawl I used 100g each of the two contrast colours and needed 150g for the middle colour. At the time I think I thought 100g would be enough of the main colour but got half way through, panicked and bought 1 ball more!
I used a 4mm hook for both crochet shawls.
Placing the Contrast Colours
These simple crochet stripes work well in the Drops cotton merino and it works well having tweaked the colour layout too. Unlike the original pattern, I kept all of Yarn A to one side and all of Yarn C to the other. When wrapped around the neck, you get to see both contrasting shades at either side. I clearly didn’t give this much thought until after I’d finished the first one. When designing a crochet shawl pattern, think about how it will be used by the wearer! I realised that keeping the contrast colours to their own sides was a better idea because the shawl has been worn as a scarf (check out the first photo in this blog post to see how those colours show both sides when wrapped around).
Striped Shawl Pattern
The pattern is written in UK terms but it only uses 1 stitch, the US double crochet!
You will need some yarn and a crochet hook that suits that weight of yarn. Please see above for details about yarn quantities. For both of my shawls, I used a 4mm hook.
This second version turned out slightly larger than the first blue/grey/neon shawl (approx 15cm longer and 4cm deeper).
The 3 chain at the beginning of rows counts as a stitch. You can swap this out for a different method if you prefer. I’d be tempted to these days. Check out my video tutorial on alternatives to a chain 3 HERE.
For decrease rows the 2 chain counts as part of tr2tog so don’t work into it.
If you have leftover yarn, tassels would be a great addition!
Tension of the sport weight (blue/neon) shawl: Work the first 16 rows of the pattern. Triangle measures 9cm x 19cm x 21cm (3.75 x 7.5 x 8 inches)
Special Stitches tr2tog ( same as a US dc2tog): Yrh, insert hook into first st, yrh & pull through (3 loops on hook), yrh, pull through 2 loops, yrh, insert into next st, yrh (4 loops on hook), yrh, pull through 2 loops (3 loops on hook), yrh, pull through last 3 loops.
Pattern
(Use in conjunction with the listed colour order of stripes, below) Row 1: Ch4, 1tr in 4th ch from hook, turn. Row 2: Ch3, 1tr in same st, 1tr in next st, turn. Row 3: Ch3, 1tr in next st, 2tr in last st, turn. Row 4: Ch3, 1tr in same st, 1tr along to end, turn. Row 5: Ch3, 1tr along, 2tr in last st, turn. Repeat rows 4&5 until you have 83 rows. Row 84: Ch2, 1 tr along to end, turn. Row 85: Ch3, 1 tr along to last 2 sts, tr2tog over last two st. Repeat rows 84 & 85 to end. Fasten off and sew in ends!
Colour Order of Stripes
Note: If you’d like some of each contrast colour to show at either side of your neck as you wear the striped shawl wrapped around like a scarf, keep contrast color A for all stripes on the increases and use contrast colour b when working the stripes during the decrease rows.
Soak the shawl in lukewarm water and a splash of wool wash soap until thoroughly wet. Rinse and gently squeeze out most of the water then, remove excess water by rolling (gently smooshing) it in a towel. Pin out onto blocking boards and leave to dry. If you’ve made you shawl with acrylic yarn, give it a light steam block to provide a touch of even drape. Don’t be too aggressive as you can melt the acrylic very easily!
About eighteen months ago I made the simplest crochet granny stripe shawl, it was a very enjoyable and mindful make. I had taken some yarn away with me on a sunny weekend retreat with a couple of other yarn loving friends. It turned out that I pretty much just worked on that one stripey pattern.
Anyway, this crochet shawl is such a fun pattern to work up that I’ve made it twice! This time, I used it more as a stash busting project, using loads my yarn scraps to create a colourful, granny stripe pattern. To be honest, this is the kind of crochet project where most yarns will work but if in doubt, check out my post on Yarn Substitution.
You can buy a PDF version of this crochet pattern in my Ravelry Store, or if you prefer, Etsy. The PDF pattern has additional charts, a table for the main border and new scallop edging. Keep reading for the pattern to make your own pretty crochet edging and remember that the main body of the granny stripe shawl is HERE.
Please note that the written pattern for the crochet edging is slightly different to what you see in the photos. I changed it in one single place; the point at the front. Take a look at the photo of the yarn with Marceline’s tail, there is a scallop at either side of the point (on the very first “row” of granny stripe). The look bothered me way more than it should have. It bothered me enough that I have added an extra scallop to go in the middle of those two.
Am I being pernickety?! Would you have changed it too?
Easy Crochet Edging For Your Granny Stripe Shawl
For the first Wayward Sisters shawl I didn’t add a border, it was the ultimate in easy crochet patterns. I didn’t even bother sewing in the ends that time. I just added some simple tassels to hide where I hadn’t woven them in. But it turns out, I’m not much of a tassel person. I removed them and they’re in a box, waiting to be turned into a yarny garland.
Instead, I added a simple edging of UK htr / US hdc stitches. I don’t have a photo of that crochet border as it’s tucked away for the winter (spring is on the way, folks!). However, I do have a quick snap of when I was crocheting that border on holiday in Croatia. Crocheting in Croatia!!
A spot of early morning crochet from the terrace of the Croatia Airbnb, Oct 22.
Isn’t it amazing how a different edging can change and elevate a crochet design? It can make a design look totally new. This stash busting version of Wayward Sisters looks vastly different with the change in colour scheme and pretty scallop edge.
Once you have made the main body, this handmade shawl looks good in lots of kinds of edgings, the crochet pattern I’m sharing in this post is just two rounds and takes no time at all. I have also included an additional stitch chart in the PDF version of the pattern so you can get a visual representation of the pattern layout.
Crochet Scallop Edging Pattern
This simple yet pretty crochet edging is worked around each side of the triangle shawl. You can work pattern edging in the main colour or choose a contrast colour. Either will work well. On my list of things to do is crochet a plain main body (just one colour) with a fun contrast edge. I think that will look brilliant.
Note, where the pattern says “sp” this refers to the space at the end of each row. This is created by the 4ch or last tr stitch of a row.
After Row 76, do not turn. Rnd 1: With right side facing (sl st, ch5, sl st) in first sp, *ch5, sl st in next sp; rep from * to last ch-sp of first side, ch5, rotate shawl to work down the next side, sl st into the first sp, rep from * to last ch-sp of 2nd side, ch5, sl st in same sp, **ch5, miss 3tr cluster, sl st in sp between clusters; rep from ** to end, turn.
Rnd 2: (sl st, 1dc, 1htr, 1tr, ch1, 1tr, 1htr, 1dc, sl st) in each 5ch-sp around, join with sl st to first sl st. Fasten off and cut yarn. Sew in ends.
To bring out extra drape, uniformity and all round perfection, wash and block your shawl.
Boom, job done. You’ve added a pretty crochet edging to your granny stripe shawl.
And the Wayward Sisters were reunited once more at this year’s Unravel yarn festival (Feb 24).
What do you think? I hope you like this crochet edging pattern. If so, please take a look at some of my other free crochet patterns here. If you missed it at the top of the blog post, I will add a link to Ravelry patterns HERE and the link to Etsy is HERE.
I love a granny square!! I am a huge fan of crochet’s most famous four-sided motif. However, sometimes it’s nice to add a little twist for no reason other than it’s fun to experiment and play with new crochet stitches.
This cute crochet square’s DNA is near 99% granny stitch, it’s just the centre that’s different. I felt like adding a little bit of dainty fanciness without it being overly complicated. The centre is almost floral and its petal-like nature works really well next to the more traditional trio of stitches that we know and love about the granny square. It’s a nice balance of new and old.
In recent months, I have come up with two new designs that feature this cute little granny square. Firstly, a cosy crochet blanket with two types of squares. The small squares that feature are the pattern I’m sharing today. (There is a large granny square pattern in this blanket that is a slightly different design and you can find the pattern for it here).
I finished this giant granny square blanket just after Christmas and even though I haven’t blocked it yet, it’s on our bed, keeping us warm until the spring comes. When the weather perks up a bit, I shall wash and block it outside to bring it to life. It looks lovely without blocking but I know that a gentle wash and dry in the sun will really make a wonderful difference.
So, a pattern is coming soon for this comfy bedspread but not just yet. Maybe in a few months. (I’ve just ordered the yarn to make another in a totally different colour palette! – this one pictured is Paintbox Wool Blend DK).
Starburst Crochet Cowl
The other pattern that uses my little grannies is the Starburst Square Cowl. This time, I used loads of yarn minis and leftovers to create the ultimate stash buster. It’s perfect for using yarn advent minis or leftover scrap yarn from other crochet or knitting projects.
For the granny square crochet cowl above, I use the Join As You Go technique to affix the granny squares to each other. This is also demonstrated in the video tutorial. Whilst I have written how to JAYG in the cowl pattern, I’m not going to do it here, I think it works just as well when you’re shown visually, which is why I put together the tutorial.
Essentially, JAYG is a series of slip stitches into an already crocheted square whilst you complete other square simultaneously. It can be confusing at first but once you get the hang of it, it might just become one of your most used crochet techniques. It’s amazing when working granny squares with the same outer colour because you can then adopt a “Continuous Join AS You Go”! Slightly different but an absolute game changer. I haven’t used it for years so don’t have a tutorial but maybe one day….
How to Crochet a Cute Granny Square
Please note that the instructions below are UK terms. The thing to remember is that a UK tr (treble) is a US dc (double). It’s a granny square pattern and grannies comprise of US dc stitches.
Yarn Weights and Hook Sizes
The granny square is all about using up your yarn scraps and leftovers and this design is no different. Gather together your favourite colours of yarn and get started right away! You could make a cowl, blanket, bag, scarf, cardigan, goodness me, the list goes on and on… Make sure you choose the same yarn weight for all of your colours; don’t mix and match as it might look higgledy piggledy in size/shape. If you’re unsure, read about yarn substitution here.
You will also need a crochet hook that goes with the yarn you’re using. For example, when I made my Starburst Cowl, I used fingering weight (sock) yarn and a 3mm hook. For the big crochet blanket, I hooked up my squares using a DK yarn and a 4mm hook.
Special Crochet Stitches
Note that I use a few techniques that you might not have tried before. This is so that the granny square looks the very best it can. The unconventional starts of the rounds might feel discombobulating initially but I demonstrate how to do them in the video tutorial. They will become second nature after a few practice runs. Honest!
Beg tr2tog: This is used as the beginning of the first round to work the first petal. How to work a “Beg tr2tog”: Insert hook in circle, yrh and pull through, yrh and pull through both loops on hook (it helps to gently pinch the st at this point to make the next stage easier), insert hook in left leg of the st and the loop behind it (the pinch helps the back loop to become looser and more visible), yrh and pull through, (2 loops on hook), yrh and insert hook into the circle, yrh and pull through (4 loops on hook), yrh and pull through 2 loops, yrh and pull through 3 loops.
Standing tr start (sttr): This is instead of starting rounds by chaining, it looks much tidier than a 3-chain and it’s fun to do! It’s perfect when changing colour at the beginning of rows. How to work a Standing Start: Yrh three times and hold loops on hook with forefinger, insert hook in ch-sp/st, yrh and pull through, [yrh and pull through 2 loops] twice. Let go of the yarn wrapped around your hook. First treble stitch made.
Extra Tip!! If you’re going to make a big granny square with lots of rounds, use the Standing Start and attach the new yarn to alternate/opposite corners of the square to prevent it from twisting. (Does this happen to your squares when you make them?! Ugh, it happens to me. But not when I attach yarn using this technique!)
Granny Square Pattern
As I have said above, please remember that these are UK instructions. UK Tr (treble) stitches are US dc stitches (doubles).
Chain 5 and join with a sl st. Rnd 1: 1Beg tr2tog, ch2, *tr2tog, 2ch: rep from * 6 more times, join with a sl st into the 1st 2ch-sp. Fasten off & cut yarn. [ 8 “petals”] Rnd 2: Attach new yarn with 1sttr in any 2ch-sp, 2tr in same sp, 3tr in next 2ch-sp, *(3tr, 2ch, 3tr) in next 2ch-sp, 3tr in next 2ch-sp; rep from * two more times, 3tr in first 2ch-sp, ch2, join with a sl st to the top of the first st. Fasten off & cut yarn.
And that’s the cute little granny square complete! If you enjoyed this blog post, have a look at more of my free crochet patterns, here.
I am revisiting a granny tote pattern that I initially put together several years ago. You can find my original Hotchpotch granny stripe purse pattern here on my blog. For that colourful version, I created a YouTube crochet tutorial on how to make a small size purse with no written pattern. It always felt weird (possibly lazy!) that I didn’t write the bag pattern at that time so that’s what I’ve done today (six years later!).
Last summer I worked up this new granny stripe bag but it has taken me a few months to sort out the blog post and free crochet pattern so that you can make one too.
A Strong Bottom for Your Bag
The new granny tote has a couple of changes. Firstly, I ditched the starting chain and replaced it with a Foundation Start.
If you don’t like using foundation stitches to start your crochet, you may wish to use chains instead, which is what I show in the old video tutorial. However, I LOVE foundation stitches to begin projects; they’re awesome. The benefit of a foundation start is that you don’t have to work into a chain (not my fave thing to do), and they have a nice elasticity to them. They are also especially good if you need to work long chains (a foundation start is not in quite so much danger of twisting as a chain is wont to do).
The other great thing about a foundation start is that you can work into both the top and bottom, as I do in this crochet pattern. It is more structurally sound than a flimsy chain too. Hopefully, that is enough to convince you to give it a try!
A Colourful Crochet Bag
No matter which way you look at it, both old and new granny totes are super colourful. For this new cotton version, I went less crazy on colour choices but it still looks fun and fabulous.
I usedPaintbox DK cotton (affiliate link) and changed colour every row rather than it being an outrageous stream of clashing colours. As much I am an advocate of the magic knot, I don’t actually enjoy tying hundreds of knots and would rather sew in a handful of ends tbh.
How to Make a Crochet Granny Tote
Oky doky, here’s what you need to crochet your own colourful granny stripe bag (I think the list of tools & materials is actually longer than the bag pattern itself!).
FYI, my granny stripe bag measures approx 36cm / 14 inches across with a depth of 30cm / 11.5 inches.
Crochet Tools you Will Need
Cotton DK (this is a bit finer than acrylic double knit, sturdier to). I used about 18 colours of Paintbox DK. I like the range of colours and it’s non-mercerised. (Mercerised = shiny, and it’s not my favourite).
3mm crochet hook.
Handles of your choice. Try Amazon, Etsy or upcycle by extricating them from an old bag (a tote or similar, not the other kind of old bag).
Fabric for lining. Whilst this is optional, I 99.9% recommend lining a crochet bag.
Magnetic clasp. Another optional item.
Needle and thread. If you have a sewing machine then great. But since you’re only sewing a few inches, you could get away with hand sewing. I quite enjoy hand sewing even though I now need reading glasses to do it. (this is how I discovered that I am the other kind of old bag).
A pointyish needle with an eye that’ll fit the dk cotton (for sewing the handles).
Crochet Granny Tote Pattern
Note, for the set up row, watch the tutorial for how to work a foundation start HERE. Also note that below I have added two sets of instructions. The first set is for US terms, the second are UK terms.
US Instructions
Set up row: Work 61 fsc, turn. Rnd 1: Ch3, 2dc in first stitch, *sk 2 sts, 3dc in next st; rep from * to end, ch2, rotate work to continue along the underside, 3dc in first st, rep from * to end, ch2, join with a slip stitch (sl st) to the top of the 3ch, do not turn. [42 clusters around]. Fasten off and cut yarn. Rnd 2: Join new yarn to 2ch-sp, ch3, 2dc in same sp, 3dc in each sp around, join with a sl st to the top fo the 3ch, do not turn. Fasten off and cut yarn. Rnd 3: Join new yarn to any sp between clusters, ch3, 2dc in same sp, 3dc in each sp around, join with a sl st to the top of the 3ch, do not turn. Fasten off and cut yarn. Rnds 4-30: As Row 3. Rnds 31 – 34: Join new yarn to any st, ch1, hdc in each st around, do not turn. Fasten off and cut yarn. Sew in ends.
UK Instructions
Set up row: Work 61 UK fdc, turn. Rnd 1: Ch3, 2tr in first stitch, *miss 2 sts, 3tr in next st; rep from * to end, ch2, rotate work to continue along the underside, 3tr in first st, rep from * to end, ch2, join with a slip stitch (sl st) to the top of the 3ch, do not turn. [42 clusters around]. Fasten off and cut yarn. Rnd 2: Join new yarn to 2ch-sp, ch3, 2tr in same sp, 3tr in each sp around, join with a sl st to the top fo the 3ch, do not turn. Fasten off and cut yarn. Rnd 3: Join new yarn to any sp between clusters, ch3, 2tr in same sp, 3tr in each sp around, join with a sl st to the top of the 3ch, do not turn. Fasten off and cut yarn. Rnds 4-30: As Row 3. Rnds 31 – 34: Join new yarn to any st, ch1, htr in each st around, do not turn. Fasten off and cut yarn. Sew in ends.
Lining A Crochet Bag
This is easier than it sounds. You can opt for just a simple pocket sewn up the sides to pop within your granny tote. That will stop anything from falling out of the holes between the granny clusters. It will also provide a bit of anchorage for the handles, which will make your bag last longer. By sewing the handles through the crochet fabric and the lining fabric it’s way more sturdy than solely relying on your precious crochet stitches to bear the weight.
I hope it’s OK but instead of writing specific instructions on how to add a lining here, pop across to my blog post for How to Crochet a Zigzag Bag. That blog post has an explanation of how I lined that chevron tote and I used the same method for this crochet granny stripe bag. There’s even the option to add a magnetic clasp too. I also have a YouTube version for crocheting the chevron tote. For the lining demo, jump to timestamp 30:36.
Take your time with lining your crochet bag, there’s no rush.
Once you’ve chosen whether to line your crochet granny tote or not, regardless, you need to add handles. Feel free to crochet some but I like to add leather ones (faux leather in this case). They really are very cheap and you can get them from Amazon or Etsy easily.
Again, I won’t use too many words here to describe this process because I used exactly the same method as I did for my Zig Zag Bag. Feel free to measure where you’re going to place them so they’re equidistant. I usually eyeball first and, if in doubt, get the tape measure out.
Use a decent needle for sewing through the handle’s holes. If it’s too blunt, you’ll have a fight on your hands.
Your Crochet Granny Tote is Finished!
And that’s it! Voila, you have made a colourful crochet bag!! Now it’s time to show off to everyone and galavant around town with your new striped granny tote, yay!
The Cardigan Crochet Along is almost upon us! Starting on Saturday 13th (that’s this Saturday), we can all pick up our hooks and start crocheting!
I wrote lots of fabulous information about the CAL in my first post a couple of weeks ago. You will find lots of useful bits and bobs about how to join in with the Cardigan Crochet Along HERE. At this point in time I am very excited about starting, and I hope you are too!
One of the other reasons I’m excited is because I am sitting waiting for the postman to arrive as he will be delivering my yarn soon, so I can crochet a cardi! The other reason is that I can finally share discounts and prizes to make the CAL that little bit more enticing! These have been kindly offered by my crochet friends to give you additional ideas and choices for the Crochet Along.
She Sells Seashells
CAL Discount Offers from Brilliant Crochet Designers
Let’s do the discounts first as they may have an impact on your pattern choice for the Crochet Along. However, even if some of these cardigan patterns aren’t what you’re going to make for the CAL, perhaps you’ll be tempted to grab copies of your faves for a date to make in the future.
Also, please think about hitting “follow” on anyone new to you and sign up for newsletters etc. It really supports the crochet community by highlighting designers for new makers and you get to learn new stuff too! I have specifically chosen designers where there is a really good mix of different styles, techniques and stitches. This way there is something for everyone. Below there is a wonderful selection of different yarn weights, different experience levels and different styles.
Zeens and Roger Cardigan Patterns
I am going to cheekily barge my way to the front on this one. I think I’ll be forgiven!
First up, I am releasing two cardigan patterns for this awesome yarny event and both will have discounts throughout the CAL. For kicks and giggles, I will also pop a discount on the Perfect Cardigan too. Therefore, I am offering 25 % off on Little Fluffy Clouds, She Sells Seashells and the Perfect Cardigan with the code: ZeensCAL24
The code is valid from Saturday 13th January through to the 31st of March. You will be able to buy them from my Etsy shop and also my Ravelry store with the discount code.
Read on for even more great discounts from some of my fellow crochet designers and also, to find out which cardigan I will be making….
More Crochet Cardigan Patterns…
All codes will be valid throughout the duration of the CAL, beginning January 13th. Oh, and whilst I’ve linked many specific patterns to Ravelry, you can find them on the designer’s other platforms, which are also linked.
Strata – Fay Dashper Hughes
I keep looking out the window to see if the postman is on his way. I am waiting for a bundle of skeins so that I can make Strata, a beautiful crochet cardigan designed by Fay Dashper Hughes. Fay is a friend of mine who designs modern crochet patterns. Strata is her first crochet cardigan design and I’m really keen to get started. I was lucky enough to try on the sample when Fay was making it so I know it’s a doozy!
Fay’s designs are available on Ravelry, Etsy and her own website, Provenance Craft Co (links below). If you purchase Strata from her website, Fay operates a “pay what you can” scheme.
Fay is offering 30% off of Strata with the code: ZeensCAL24
I’m sure you know Michelle, otherwise known as Dora! Michelle, another lovely friend of mine, has a fab catalogue of crochet designs, I love love love her new cardigan design, Short Stories. It is a set-in sleeve garment, which I’ve never done before but would love to try. With the inclusion of short rows for the sleeve caps, it’s an intermediate pattern that is sophisticated and beautifully shaped.
Also, it’s worth pointing out that Michelle’s newsletter is the best one out there. Always full of relevant crochet good stuff.
Short Stories
Fay, Michelle and I had a lovely weekend in the Cotswolds a couple of years back. Here is a pic of us all in the sunshine. I just happen to be wearing my first sample of Little Fluffy Clouds!! Michelle is wearing one of her pretty cardis too. This makes me happy!
Cardigan Collection – Blage Crochet Designs
Next up is a gorgeous choice of cardigans by Blazenka of Blage Crochet Designs. Her Airy Petrol Shrug is super eye-catching, I love the stitch pattern and shaping! There is a variety of stitches and shaping in Blazenka’s design work. Woodhill is another that I thought was interesting piece that would be popular.
Blazenka is offering 25% off all of the cardigans (pic below) until the end of the CAL. Code: ZEENSCAL24
Christina is well known for her amazingly popular Hotel of Bees shawl. Luckily for us, she also has some lovely crochet cardigan patterns too. My fave is the Little Maple Cardigan, the shoulder shaping is what I’m curious to try, it has an interesting construction. The maple motif continues with Maple Leaf cardigan.
The beauty of Christina’s patterns is that you can find them for free on her blog. However, the discount that is on offer is to receive 20% off the PDF versions so you can print the pattern and make it without trawling through website ads. The code you need to receive a discount is ZeensCAL2024
A few years ago, when I hosted my last CAL, it was super popular to include prizes and giveaways too. I don’t see this as often anymore but it’s what I know and it adds an extra layer of excitement to the crafty proceedings. Therefore, I have arranged a fantastic bundle of crochet designs that one lucky participant will win at the end of the CAL.
In the old days, I would close my eyes and do some random scrolling, press my finger to the screen and the name nearest my smudgey paw print would be the winner. These days I can download names from chats and they go into an anonymous random generator. I will do that this time around.
So, want to see what’s on offer?! ….
The CAL Prizes
Logiilo Crochet
Logiilo Crochet
I love Lois’s modern crochet work (some examples above), it’s timeles, classic and always on trend. Her colour choices are on point too. The winner will receive a Ravelry gift code to pick a pattern of their choice. I don’t know how anyone would choose mind you, there are so many lovely things to crochet!
I think Esme was won over by the name of Little Fluffy Clouds! It is a 90’s dance track by the Orb and I know that Esme recently went to one of their gigs. She has kindly offered to gift a copy of a pattern for her Fool’s Gold blanket (Fool’s Gold, another classic, old school track!).
Esme is the queen of colourful mosaic crochet and her books are amazing and stupendous.
Helen was one of my brilliant Little Fluffy Clouds cardigan testers. I am so so grateful to Helen and the rest of the gang who helped me spot any tweaks that needed to happen. Thanks, Helen!!
Helen will send over a PDF to the winner for her Retro Flowers blanket. It is so pretty and colourful and fun, as are all of the crochet patterns that Helen designs! Loves ’em, I do and you can see more examples of her work on Lovecrafts (link below).
Not content with allllll of the above, the designers who are offering discounts for their cardigan designs are also generously donating prizes to the pot, for example, Michelle has donated a copy of her Any Yarn Will Do Cardigan, which, as the name suggests, you can make in any yarn weight. But it’s not just cardigans, there are accessories, blankets and other garments. Plus, I will add three of my own designs to the bundle of patterns so the winner will have ten patterns to enjoy crocheting at their leisure!!
Whether it’s a pattern of your choice or a specific pattern that the designer is offering, I’m sure you will agree wholeheartedly that we have put together a selection of joyful treats for the person whose name gets plucked from the hat.
Useful Crochet Resources
If you have any questions at this point, please please do ask. You can drop me a line in the comments, or message me on the other platforms and forms. You will find all the links in the first post about the Zeens and Roger Cardigan Crochet Along 2024!!
Hello and welcome to the first post about my Cardigan CAL 2024!! I have been brewing this idea for a few weeks, ever since I thought about publishing two crochet cardigan patterns at the same time. (She Sells Seashells and Little Fluffy Clouds are being released on January 13th! – keep your eyes peeled for discounts as they’re on the way and don’t forget to scroll down to the end of this post for further info on both. That way, you can be prepared in advance!)
Starting January 13th and continuing throughout the first few weeks of 2024 and finishing at the end of March, I thought it would be a lovely idea to have a Crochet Along so that a community of crafters can come together and crochet cardigans. If we are all making patterns at the same time, wouldn’t it be great if we could chat to each other? Talk to each other about the patterns we’re making, and ask for advice on yarns, stitches and construction!?
What is a CAL?
A CAL stands for Crochet Along. You may have also heard of a MAL (Make Along) and KAL (Knit Along). In a nutshell, it’s a fun get together where folks can encourage each other and have a fun time with like minded people. Participation can be as in depth as you choose. In the past, when I have hosted a CAL, there has been a fabulously diverse mix of makers of all different skill levels.
The social side of a CAL is a huge perk for me but it’s not the only reason for taking part. The sharing of ideas, as well as learning tips and tricks brings a disparate bunch of enthusiasts together, enriching what can be a quiet and solitary hobby. In other words, it’s loads of fun hanging out with your crochet mates!
There are other benefits too. Joining a CAL is the opportunity to try something new that you might not otherwise feel brave enough to make. A CAL can give you focus and encouragement so you can achieve your goal without the energy wearing off. It can remove the pressure of working out all the details too. And let’s not forget the potential for a prize or two!
There are lots of different platforms you can choose to hang out on. I’ve seen CALs hosted on Facebook, Instagram and Ravelry to name just a few.
Which Cardigan Can I Make?
Ok, so here’s the bit I struggled with the most. I know that most CALs stick to one pattern but I cannot do it. I am always so indecisive and torn by choices. It seemed unfair to say you had to make just one crochet design when I don’t like being restricted myself. So, I have opened up the options a little bit.
It also allows me to make a cardigan of my choice too and seeing as I have already made samples of my own designs, I wanna make something different! I am going to make a cardigan designed by one of my friends, which you can find out about here on the CAL Discount and Prizes post!
I have put a little crochet cardigan bundle together on ravelry, for some different styles. A couple have free options but I have pulled together few friends who are offering discounts on their paid patterns too. A few fellow designers are offering 25% off their cardigan patterns so that you can make whichever one is your favourite. Or buy them all and save some crocheting for a later date!
How Do I Join in the Cardigan CAL?
To join the CAL all you need to do is crochet a cardigan during the first few months of 2024. If you join in the chat and share your progress, your name can also be added to a prize draw where I will pick one winner who will receive a lovely bundle of digital crochet patterns.
There are three different places to take part so it’s a bit more inclusive than just running it in just one place. Not everyone uses Instagram, for example. But fear not, you don’t need to participate in all three if you don’t want to. You only need to use your preferred social media platform.
Links to all three are below. We are live so you can get started on the chat straightaway!
The CAL Facebook Group
I have already set up the Facebook Group. Please forgive its current barebones, I don’t really use Facebook at the moment and haven’t added any bells and whistles. What I’m hoping for is to build a community there as I know it’s still a popular place for crochet chat.
Ravelry Cardi Chatter Thread
I have also set up a Cardigan CAL Ravelry forum as I know people love this platform for chatter threads and sharing progress. It has been a while since I used Ravelry for its forums but it is very easy to do.
Instagram Fun
If you’re an IG user, I’ll assume you’re familiar with sharing your pics on your feed. I would love to see all your progress shots, not just one finished photo at the end of the CAL. Keep active and people will see your hard work. Obvs, I don’t mean sharing every day but perhaps once every couple of weeks to keep in the loop. If you’re enjoying it and want to share more, go for it!
Use hashtags on Instagram to share what you’re making. #ZeensAndRoger #ZCardiCAL2024
Feel free to use both of these hashtags but the one I’ll use for the prize draw at the end is #ZCardiCAL2024
The Perfect Crochet Cardigan!
CAL Prizes?!
The prize draw is optional and just for fun. Ok, it’s an incentive to join in too but ultimately, this is the sort of thing I’d join even if prizes weren’t on offer! I might have a couple of runners up too, depending on what I can work out for the number of prizes there are at the end. I have already roped in a few friends who have offered some gorgeous patterns and discounts. It’s so good already! In previous CALs, I managed to boost the bundle even more throughout the CAL’s duration so if you’re a designer and would like to offer a digital pattern (It doesn’t need to be a cardigan pattern), please get in touch!
What I haven’t done yet is ask for you to join newsletters for me and my crochet friends, but please consider it as it’s a really helpful method of getting designers known by a wider audience. I very rarely send a newsletter but when I do it will be because I have discounts or free patterns to offer, or just some really exciting news to share!
At the end of the CAL, I will pull the names of participants together and draw names out of a hat. There isn’t much you need to do apart from being present in one or more of the community groups and/or use of hashtags on Instagram.
I want this CAL to be as laid back as possible. This is for two reasons:
1) I don’t want you to have to jump through hoops to join in.
2) I want to do as little work as I can (sorry but it’s true! Haha). I just want to have fun watching all the cardis get made.
Therefore, this means there aren’t loads of rules. However, you can’t just dig out an already made cardigan from your wardrobe and enter that. No! That’s cheating. Here are the basics:
A cardigan is an open front sweater. This CAL is not for any other garments.
Please no WIPs, I would like you to start your cardigan at some point from the beginning of the CAL. By all means, start a week or two later if you’re not able to start on the 13th Jan. Even later if you’re a speedy crocheter and will still finish by the end of March.
You can double dip. So if you have seen another CAL or MAL and wish to enter that too, I have no objections.
You only need to join one of the groups above to be part of the CAL but you can be present in all three if you fancy.
This CAL is for everyone, whether you have just started to crochet or you’ve been hooking for decades, this crochet along is for you. Please remember to be respectful of what others are making.
What Cardigan Are You Going To Make?
So, that just leaves you to choose which cardigan you fancy making! What will it be?!
Read on for the additional details about my own designs. …
Little Fluffy Clouds
Dropping especially for the Cardigan CAL 2024 is Little Fluffy Clouds, a puff stitch cardigan in DK weight yarn. I have been working on this for more than two years!! Life kept getting in the way and I procrastinated way more than was necessary. However, I am over the moon to say that my crochet cardigan, Little Fluffy Clouds is live!!!
I also have the Perfect Cardigan, a striped v-neck pattern, which has the discount as well.
And if you were trying to save bit of cash, don’t forget the JW Anderson inspired crochet cardigan, which is a free pattern here on my blog. It is also a great stash buster so you could absolutely raid lots of your leftover yarns to make that colourful crochet pattern.
I will come back and suggest some other cardi patterns soon too.
Thank You!!
Finally, a massive Thank You!! I have had such a ridiculously positive response about this crochet along, I’m thrilled that you want to join in. I often have sparks of inspiration but then chicken out in bringing them to fruition because I’m afraid it won’t be of interest. Without the enthusiasm from you guys, this idea would have been fleeting and surely fizzled out. Thank you very much.
If you have read through this post and it has raised a question, please let me know in the comments and I will address your queries in the next post.
