Have you ever used a crochet pattern and admired the beautifully designed crochet charts that you used? They can make a crochet pattern stand out by helping makers visualise the placement of stitches.
If you’re a crochet designer and interested in selling patterns, it’s in everyone’s best interest to add a crochet chart into the mix. Some people are visual learners and written descriptions can sometimes be confusing. A helpful chart will lead to many happy crocheters.
Below, I share two different resources for creating crochet charts so you can give them a go too. Let me know what you think!
A simple chart created on StitchFiddle
Stitch Fiddle For Crochet Charts
I will always have a soft spot for Stitch Fiddle, I learned a lot by experimenting with the free version. I currently pay around £27 a year for the premium version which gives you access to more functions. The paid version means you can create as many charts as you want and opens up a lot of other options too, which is great.
Stitch Fiddle can be used for simple, freehand charts (with a little help from aligning tools) and I taught myself to use it quite easily. One of its advantages is that it’s pretty intuitive.
It’s main strength lies in C2C crochet charts. They are so easy to create. With the premium version you can also download a written, a row by row colour order from the C2C charts you create, which is useful if someone likes the reassurance of a written version. I will probably use Stitch Fiddle forever to create C2C charts.
But Stitch Fiddle has limitations that can be frustrating for bigger, more complex crochet charts. The two things that I can’t do and really want it to do are: group crochet symbols together to rotate them all as one, and group to then mirror a sequence of stitches, which I always thought would be a major time saver. I know that one day, these may well become part of the software as the guy behind Stitch Fiddle listens and has frequently acted upon requests for system updates. I just know that his schedule is probably huge and much like the rest of us, he can’t do all the things all at once.
Help With Learning Crochet Charts
The Barton Hap, a crochet shawl pattern, needed charts to accompany the written pattern
A month or so ago, I was incredibly frustrated and struggling to create a detailed chart of ripple stitches. It was just not within my skill set and a little bit beyond what was easy in Stitch Fiddle. I aired my upset on Instagram and received some excellent feedback from many makers. Everyone agreed that charts were useful and that often, they were an essential part of a good crochet pattern. I knew there was no way to bury my head in the sand about this. I had to get good at crochet charts!
Create Crochet Charts Like a Pro
Christina Hadderingh of a Spoonful of Yarn, sensed my despair and sent a message to offer me a chance to try her Masterclass (sadly, now closed) Create Crochet Charts Like a Pro. Of course, I said yes as I was very much in a position where I needed help. Sometimes, it’s OK to acknowledge that you can’t do it all on your lonesome.
It helped me learn how to use a free, downloadable program called Crochet Charts Stitch Works Software, which was a game-changer for my charts. But you don’t need a course to use it if you’re up for playing around by clicking around and experimenting.
I learned how to build crochet charts within an afternoon. I wouldn’t have been able to do it so speedily without the course, but I could have muddled my way through without it. Instead of the course, there are YouTube videos that guide crochet designers through using the software, so check them out!
Crochet Charts By Stitchworks
The chart on the left was created using Stitch Fiddle. The chart of the right, Stitch Works (without a couple of the details because A: I was rushing and B: I only “drew” the second pic for this blog post). Hopefully, you can tell the difference between the two. Symbols are just a bit tidier for the chart on the right. And it took me a fraction of the time to create.
My FAVOURITE things about Crochet Charts by Stitch Works Software
I can change the colour of the stitches after I’ve placed them (you cannot yet do this with Stitch Fiddle and that’s a big disadvantage. It’s such a relief to be able to do this.
To create a new chart, I can select the number of stitches, and what kind of stitches I want and it’ll pop them all on my screen, evenly in formation, at the click of a button. I’ve done this for rows (squares) and in the round (circular).
Highlight the stitches you’re interested in and rotate them all together. Bliss!
And then mirror them precisely, all in one click. This function and the one above, can’t be done on StitchFiddle yet, although I gather it might be on their wish list at some point.
I can use a square, circle or triangle grid if I want and stitches cling to it – this I haven’t explored much because it’s glitchy.
Charts are so tidy!
I’ve had no problem saving charts or losing my work.
My Not So Favourite Things…
A couple of things to note about my not so favourite things. The glitch I mentioned… Each time I open a new chart and select a grid to use, the program crashes. I tried several times and nope! No joy. However, I can click on an already saved chart and then select a grid without the system crashing. I don’t know the reason for this but at least I know I can use them with this little hack.
When I revisited the software a couple of days later, I couldn’t find it on my PC. I was searching for the wrong thing. Don’t search for Stitch Works, search for “Crochet Charts.”
It doesn’t have an exhaustive list of stitch symbols so you may have to substitute one stitch for another. As I understand it, you can import a font called Stitchin Crochet Pro to the software. I do actually have Stitchin Crochet Pro font downloaded somewhere on my computer. I was going to use it for another thing. Perhaps I ought to try it for Stitch Works one day. But that font isn’t exhaustive either sooooo….
Lastly, it’s quite old and I don’t know if it’s maintained anymore. To be honest, I am not going to worry about that as it does what I need it to in its current form.
Playing With Crochet Charts
Here are a couple of pictures of when I was playing around with crochet charts on Stitch Works. Initially, I asked it for lots of UK trebles (US dc) and then I decided to change them to pre-programmed picots (cos, why not?!). After that, I selected a few to become UK dc stitches (US sc). Then I messed about with changing colour and deleting chosen stitches. All of this took mere seconds. Brilliant!
Illustrator and Inkscape Charts
This is out of my league (in terms of cost and skill) but if you’re versed in Adobe Suite, then Illustrator will likely be your choice for crochet charts. From my understanding it’s a very hard learning curve but once you’ve mastered the skills, it can do anything you want.
I don’t think I’ll ever be in a position to use this but you never know. With the help of the husband, we once created a garment schematic on a creeky, old free version but even that was bamboozling. For schematics, I just use Google Drawing and insert into a pattern document. Slight corner-cutting but it does the job.
Out of the two, I’d explore Inkscape first as it’s free.
Panic Over, I now have Crochet Chart Confidence!
After weeks, if not, months of a “woe is me attitude” I finally have the confidence to tackle bigger, better crochet charts. I am not perfect at it but I now have the resources to help build my skills in a very speedy way. I am so grateful that fellow designers put tools together like this to help others. Thank you, Christina!
One of the first things Christina says at the beginning of the course is that overwhelm is a choice. It stopped me in my tracks somewhat and will sit with me for a long time. I am a classic worrier and get overwhelmed very easily. It’s not often that I stop to take a deep breath and aim to take it one step at a time. Not only was this a great lesson in creating crochet charts, but it was also a lesson in not getting into a flap just because something is new and scary! I chose to accept help and it’s been exactly what I needed. Phew!
BTW, whatever you choose to create crochet charts, it’s important to do your own research and make sure you’re happy to install the software or program that’s right for you.
I am a huge fan of crochet cowl patterns, so much so a few years ago, I wrote a blog post listing 10 of my favourite crochet cowls. This new set of Mix & Match Crochet Cowl Patterns isn’t included in that post because I have only just released them.
The idea for a set of mix and match stitch patterns (so that you can have a choice in the cowl you make) has been with me for a while. The seed was planted when I designed a striped cowl for an issue of Inside Crochet magazine (I can’t remember what issue, sorry!).
You may know this by now but some people just can’t leave things alone. They insist on tinkering, adjusting, tweaking and amending crochet patterns to suit them. I am one of those people! And I wanted to come up with a pattern that allowed for playing around with different crochet stitches, messing about with colours and combining them in lots of unique ways.
Mix & Match Crochet Cowl Pattern
You can find the pattern for the Mix & Match Crochet Cowl Pattern in my Ravelrystore as well as my little Etsy shop. So far it is in UK terms only. Please let me know how keen you are on a version that has US terms because I can bump that job to the top of my list if there is interest.
Within the pattern, there are five different designs to make or, you can choose your own selection of stitch patterns to create your own unique crochet cowl pattern. Get 25% off with the code: MMCOWL
Stash Busting Crochet Cowl Patterns
A wonderful thing about crochet is the freedom to stash bust your favourite yarns. A crochet cowl is no different. And this one is perfect for chucking all your leftover yarn at. You don’t necessarily need a main colour but I find it’s good to balance out all of the other colours you choose.
These crochet cowl patterns are also ideal for yarn advent calendars. Grab that pretty bouquet of colourful minis and you will create the most beautiful crochet accessory your eyes have ever seen! Ooooh, I love it! It’s super exciting to think about all the combinations, isn’t it?
Five Different Crochet Cowl Patterns in One!
As I have mentioned, the pattern has five different crochet patterns and you can pick one of those, or combine the stitches in a different way. It’s totally up to you.
The stitch patterns included are cute bobble stripes, an easy eyelet stitch and simple post stitch ribbing. Also stripes. Lots of stripes! I cannot get enough of them. The stitch multiples are provided so you can stick with those, or try something in between. Fun, hey?!
It was very hard to stop at just five patterns as the possibilities are vast and wide. So, to keep things simple, there’s a cosy small cowl, a large cowl that kinda doubles as a snood, and then something that is more akin to a crochet infinity scarf. Oh and because I can’t get enough of mohair, I used that in one of the patterns too. If you’re worried about using mohair yarn in your crochet projects, read some top tips here.
Take a look below at my “modelling”. It would seem, that a bit like Zoolander, I can only look one way.
Which Cowl Will You Make?
It’s hard to choose a favourite cowl, right? But if I had to, oh I’d make a new one that’s different to any of these. And I can because the pattern allows me to do that! Boom! I’ll just choose the size, grab some more yarn and see what happens.
What about you? Which crochet cowl pattern will you choose?
In the past I have confessed to not being a fan of subscription boxes. There are a number of reasons for this but the main two have always been, 1) I am paying for something and I don’t know what I’m going to get. 2) I’m locked in and can’t get out of the “deal”
Luckily for all of us, Curate Crochet Subscription boxes don’t involve either of these problems! Yay! And best of all, sometimes (certainly, this month anyway) the crochet designs that feature in the subscription box, have been designed by me!!
There is always such a super variation of designs in the Curate Crochet boxes, which means there are always new crochet ideas to try. Above, I mention the first problem I have with subscription boxes, which is you don’t know what you’re going to get until you’ve ordered. Here though, you get to see the crochet project before you buy. This month it is the Discovery of Stitches, a classic sampler scarf, and you have 7 days to order. The deadline to sign up for this sampler scarf box is the 7th of October!! Use the code Rosina5 to get £5 off your purchase.
Crochet Sampler Scarf
Back in the early summer, Lindsey got in touch to ask if I would like to design the October subscription box for Curate Crochet. Not wanting to miss out on all the fun, I immediately said yes! The designs that feature are always pitch perfect and I was delighted that Lindsey wanted to ask me to be a guest designer.
I was given a brief, which included a beautiful mood board to guide me. (As a designer, I love a good brief and mood board. It makes it so much easier to know what path to go down). The main idea was that of a crochet sampler scarf; a few different crochet stitches all sitting happily alongside each other.
I chose some of my all-time favourite stitches, that way, I think you can see it’s “on brand” for my crochet style. The colours (a gorgeous variegated yarn) are completely Lindsey. Therefore, you have a lovely blend of both of our styles and that’s most definitely my favourite part of this project!
Sampler Scarf Stitches for Witches
Let’s talk a little bit more about the scarf itself (I don’t want to miss anything out!). So, I’ve mentioned that the Discovery of Stitches scarf includes some of my fave crochet stitches. It goes without saying that I absolutely had to include granny clusters. This is the direction I was steered and I was thrilled to explore how I could merge grannies with my other top stitches: the Houndstooth stitch and a lovely set of Ripples.
Bringing it to top tier, the ombre fringing is something to behold! It took a little bit of patience to order all the strands but it is oh so worth it. That was the fiddliest bit for sure. Doesn’t it look fantastic!?
The variegated yarn means much fewer ends to sew in because the colour changes come from the yarn itself. But I am afraid there are still more than just one or two to tidy away. A great trick is to just carry them with you as you crochet so you don’t need to snip so often. You can’t do this in all the sections but certainly, in the stripes, it makes life a little bit easier for sure.
Curate Crochet Subscription Box
Hopefully, this is a project that calls to you. The idea of marrying classic crochet stitches means you get lots of interest going on but nothing is ever head-scratching. The classic stitches are all fun and easy to work but Lindsey also puts together fabulous tutorials to accompany the written pattern.
If you are tempted by the Discovery of Stitches box for this month, don’t forget the £5 discount with the code Rosina5. Pop across to the Lottie & Albert website to find out more. Be quick though, remember you only have until the 7th of October.
The second point I made at the beginning of this post is also worth noting again, you don’t need to lock into any deals. If you only wanted this one box, that’s all you need to commit to. I love that idea! Plus, you get lots of other goodies too. I am particularly fond of the little kitty witch pin, she’s so cute! Just right for the season!
You may have guessed already but this post contains an affiliate link. That’s only because it’s my crochet design and I would love you to make your own cosy sampler scarf. I think this is a design that’s definitely a Treat rather than a Trick ;p
And just for good measure, I’ll include the link once more for the October Curate Crochet box HERE. Use the code Rosina5 for your discount. Cheers and Happy Halloween!
Hello! I hope you are well?! Welcome to the Zeens and Roger Crochet Podcast. Grab yourself a cup of tea and your crochet to spend a little time with me for some crochet chat. Click on the pic above or go to my Youtube Channel HERE
It appears that I have a lot to say in this episode, you could never stop me talking about my favourite subject!
For all the crochet good stuff, please find the links below. Hopeully you will find what you are looking for.
I am working on the charts for the Barton Hap shawl. You can find the written pattern in the beautiful publication of theJohn Arbon Textiles Annual 3.
My crochet chart journey is speeding along very nicely with the help of Christina from a Spoonful of Yarn. Check out Christina Crochet Coach. The chart course has been just what I needed!
This large granny square pattern has been designed specifically for a larger crochet project I’ve been working on over the last year. Since last autumn or so, I have made enough granny squares for two double-bed sized crochet blankets, and this pattern is part of those colourful blankets.
I recorded a large granny square tutorial in the spring, and it has taken me until the late summer to edit it and put it together! Oh my goodness, such a long time. One reason for the delay was that I wanted to make sure I got the pattern right. The element that needed perfecting was the granny circle in the middle of the square because the first blanket had too many stitches. You can find out much, much more in Episode 104 of theZeens and Roger Crochet Podcast as that video has a decent chat about the blankets I made. Therefore, if you’d like to know more, please do watch it (there are other granny projects in that episode too).
The photo above shows the first blanket I made at the beginning of this year. It’s a crochet blanket that I have been meaning to make for yeeeeeaaars. Back in 2011 (ish) I made one that was very similar, and over the years, I have been asked for the pattern quite a lot. I’ll have to dig out a photo to share in the next blog post (I’ll do that once blanket no.2 is complete).
The blankets all have the same thing in common; they have large and small squares laid out together in a “random formation”. The pattern for the large granny square is below. You can find the pattern for the cute little granny square HERE (plus the video tutorial too). When combined, you can make an awesome crochet blanket.
The best thing about making lots of squares and turning them into a blanket is that there is no rush. Make just a few every now and then, pick up and put down as and when the mood takes. Before you know it, everything has come together nicely at a super relaxing pace. Wonderful stuff.
Things You Need to Crochet a Large Granny Square
For this pattern, you will need lots of DK yarn and a 4mm hook. This crochet pattern makes a 13 round square, that measures approximately 10 inches. Granny squares are, of course, the best stashbusters in the world, so gather up all your DK leftovers to make your own unique motifs for a one of a kind blanket.
It’s important to note that the written instructions here use UK terms. Anywhere you see “tr” or “treble” please remember that these are US double crochet stitches.
Below are some special stitches that you may not know. I assume that you know any other, more basic, abbreviations, but please leave a comment below if anything foxes you, and I will do my best to answer as soon as I can.
Special Crochet Stitches
To make a stonkingly good crochet square, there are a couple of techniques here that you may be new to, or perhaps not. But I will share them here as they are integral to the pattern. Please do not worry, they are not as hard as you might think and the video tutorial takes you through these crochet techniques step-by-step.
Beg tr2tog:
This is used at the beginning of Rnd 1 to work the first “petal”. It uses the same principle as a Stacked Start (have you seen my video tutorial for Alternatives to a Chain 3?). Insert hook in circle, yrh and pull through, yrh and pull through both loops on hook (it helps to gently pinch the st at this point to make the next stage easier). Insert hook in left leg of the st and the loop behind it (the pinch helps the back loop to become looser and more visible), yrh and pull through, (2 loops on hook), yrh and insert hook into the circle, yrh and pull through (4 loops on hook), yrh and pull through 2 loops, yrh and pull through 3 loops.
Standing tr start (sttr):
This is instead of starting rounds by using chains, it looks much tidier than a 3-chain and it’s fun to do! It’s perfect when changing colour at the beginning of rows. Yrh three times and hold loops on hook with forefinger, insert hook in ch-sp/st, yrh and pull through, [yrh and pull through 2 loops] twice. Let go of the yarn wrapped around your hook. First treble stitch made.
Standing dtr start (stdtr) = A US standing treble:
This is same principle as the sttr only for a taller stitch; you just wrap the yarn around your hook an extra time. Yrh four times and hold loops on hook with forefinger, insert hook in ch-sp/st, yrh and pull through, [yrh and pull through 2 loops] three times. Let go of the yarn wrapped around your hook. First dtr stitch made.
A cluster = 3 tr together in the same space.
The written pattern below assumes you will change colour every round. With Blanket No. 2 you will see that I don’t change colour every round for the granny squares. Watch the tutorial (towards the end) to see how that’s done as you have to use a couple of different techniques. Nothing crazy, I promise.
Top Tip!! Alternate the place where you join your yarn for each round. Join new yarn in the opposite corner to the join of the previous round. This avoids the dreaded granny twist! You can see this method doesn’t work quite so well if you are not changing colour.
Large Granny Square Pattern
Chain 5 and join with a sl st. Rnd 1: 1Beg tr2tog, ch2, *tr2tog, 2ch: rep from * 6 more times, join with a sl st into the 1st 2ch-sp. Fasten off & cut yarn. Do not turn (here & throughout). [ 8 “petals”]
Rnd 2: Attach new yarn with 1sttr in any 2ch-sp, 2tr in same sp, 1ch, *3tr in next 2ch-sp, 1ch; rep from * 6 more times, join with a sl st into the top of the sttr. Fasten off & cut yarn.
Rnd 3: [this is a change from the video tutorial – you may hear me waffle at about 12/13 minutes re where I put my chains for Rnd 4 and this new way makes more sense – it amounts to the same amount of stitches and chain at the end] Attach new yarn with 1sttr in any 1ch-sp, (1tr, 1ch, 2tr) in same sp, *(2tr, 1ch, 2tr) in next 1ch-sp; rep from * 6 more times, join with a sl st into the top of the sttr. Fasten off & cut yarn.
Rnd 4: Attach new yarn with 1sttr in any 1ch-sp, 2tr in same sp, miss 2 sts, 3tr, *miss 2 tr, 3tr in next 1ch-sp, miss 2 sts, 3tr; rep from * around join with a sl st into the top of the sttr. Fasten off & cut yarn. [16 clusters]
Rnd 5: Attach new yarn with 1sttr in any sp between clusters, 2tr in same sp, *3tr in next sp; rep from * around, join with a sl st into the top of the sttr. Fasten off & cut yarn.
Rnd 6: Attach new yarn with 1stdtr in any sp, 2dtr in same sp, [3tr in next sp] three times, *(3dtr, 2ch, 3dtr) in next sp, [3tr in next sp] three times; rep from * two more times, 3dtr in first corner, 1htr join in top of stdtr [see the htr join at 22:30 of the video tutorial]. Fasten off & cut yarn.
Rnds 7 – 13: Attach new yarn with 1sttr in corner 2ch-sp, 2tr in same sp, [3tr in next sp] four times, *(3tr, 2ch, 3tr) in 2ch-sp, [3tr in next sp] four times; rep from *two more times, 3tr in corner ch-sp, 1htr join in top of sttr. Fasten off & cut yarn.
And that’s how to crochet a large granny square! Now, sew in all of your ends!!
How to Join Granny Squares
There are a few different ways to join granny squares and you can do so however you see fit. In the video tutorial for the little granny squares, I demonstrate how to Join As You Go but for the new crochet blankets I have chosen to sew them together using the mattress stitch, which is also known as the ladder stitch. I prefer the look and it gives me more control. But that’s a story for another day.
Obviously, you can use this pattern to create lots of crochet squares for your own projects. However, I will pop by very soon to put all the elements together so you can see how to crochet your own granny square blanket.
Despite the fact that I don’t get the chance very often, I do love putting together a crochet podcast. I love watching them too (by other crocheting podcasters, I’m not gonna sit through hours of my own gasbagging – awkward!). Also, if you’re a fan of granny crochet, now is the time to give them a go because Episode 104 is all about granny projects!
So, get yourself a cup of tea, gather up your favourite WIP and try a crochet podcast. Hop across to YouTube and relax for half an hour or so…
Read on for links to crochet patterns, designs and anything else that you might find interesting.
Find Crochet Good Stuff
Firstly, I am currently knee deep in granny blanket making. A blog post is coming soon about how you can make your own colourful crochet project. I will pool together resources as much as possible. So far you can find…
Yarn Substitution for crochet projects – find out more about alternatives if you don’t want to use the yarn in my blankets (I have used Paintbox Woolmix DK and King Cole Majestic, more on that at a later date).
Coming soon: A mattress stitch tutorial so you can sew your granny squares together.
Coming soon: Not mentioned because I forgot; I should do a tutorial for the border as well!
You can find my Starburst Cowl (a pretty granny square pattern – see pics below) in my Ravelry store, where it can be saved to your library, or it’s also in my Etsy shop for crochet patterns.
I chatted about a couple of other granny stitch projects in this crochet podcast. scroll down to have a look, watch the episode to find out what’s going on with them!
OK, so I didn’t crochet a wedding dress for my sister, but I did design and create the top half! If you’d like help with making your own unique crochet bridal top, read on…
First things first, I have two little sisters. One was the bride: Cassie, and the other: Letitia (aka Tishie), was the seamstress and she made the coordinating bridal skirt.
This post is about the initial design process of working out how to make a crochet wedding dress (Yes I know, it’s just the top/bodice, but I got into the habit of saying we were making a dress, so “dress” has stuck I’m afraid). The plan is to write a separate blog post for beyond the design stage (part 2 will be blocking, lining, finishing touches etc).
I took a heck of a lot of photographs of the making process but not so many of the big day itself (I was too busy stuffing my face with canapes). I will try and blag some photos later so you can see the outfit in more detail. Fingers crossed!
Inspiration for Designing A Crochet Wedding Outfit
It must have been around a year or so ago that Cassie asked me to make part of her wedding outfit. At the beginning, it felt like we had bags of time and ordinarily it is an excellent idea to plan the making of a crochet wedding dress as early as possible. There are lots of aspects you need to consider. Time, for example, is essential not just for the crocheting part but for all the swatching, measuring and calculations etc.
However, despite a fantastically early start, I couldn’t do all of it straightaway because Cassie had also announced that she was pregnant!
Research and planning were still very much possible though. Therefore, in July 2023 we had our first meeting on the Isle of Wight where I was on holiday with my Mum, my brother and his family (plus my crew). Cassie and Tishie joined us for a tasty family lunch in a little railway restaurant in Yarmouth. I brought a bundle of yarn options and a few stitch dictionaries so that Cassie could thumb through everything to bookmark favourites. It was good to get the ball rolling ASAP. It was quite exciting too.
Find Pictures for Design Inspiration
The happy bride in the above picture is the original source of inspiration. The picture shows an elegant, close fitting wedding bodice with a high neckline and long sleeves. Cassie sent me a small, blurry pic on What’s App and asked if I could make something like it. Challenge accepted!
My first port of call was a Ravelry visit to see if a crochet pattern like it already existed. Ravelry is such a good platform for finding knitting and crochet patterns and hours can be spent trawling through awesome designs. This time though, Ravelry didn’t bring up anything similar. I am guessing here but wonder if most crochet wedding dresses are bespoke?
As the most exciting patterns I found on Ravelry were cats in wedding dresses I moved focus to Pinterest. It always comes to the rescue! I did a deep dive and found other images of THE outfit, which helped to work out the top construction. Pinterest is a great source for discovering all kinds of crochet wedding dress styles, stitch patterns and crochet charts.
Pinterest Board of Crochet Wedding Dreams
If you have no clue where to start when it comes to designing crochet garments, Pinterest is an excellent first choice. I put together a thorough Pinterest board of crochet wedding inspiration, HERE. Hopefully, this will give you some fabulous crochet wedding ideas as well.
On that Pinterest board you’ll find loads of pretty bridal images and loads of beautiful crochet dresses. They’re all ideas I wanted to discuss with Cassie so she could tell me what she did and didn’t like. We eliminated a lot and it made focus so much easier; I’d had lot of the ideas flying around in my creative brain.
Seeing as the original inspiration isn’t crochet, we needed a stitch pattern that would go some way to replicate the diamondy lace. Therefore, you’ll find ideas for crochet stitch patterns. And lastly, I got a bit trigger-happy on pinning crochet charts. Charts make life immensely easy when it comes to stitch patterns and working out shaping. Although, please note that I didn’t copy any of them for construction purposes. This is a made-to-measure crochet wedding dress and I created my own (there’s more chart chat further down the post).
Considering Other Design Elements
Mood board sorted, there were also a couple of other elements to consider for the design.
When making an outfit for another person, communication is key. We discussed all kinds of different ideas so I would know for sure what the vision was. And it wasn’t just crochet talk. Cassie, Tishie and I had a What’s App group so we could talk about colours, fabrics, yarn choices, measurements… Lots of questions were asked, even down to what kind of trainers might go well (sparkly gold ones, for the evening).
It isn’t just about one element but about how they’re all going to come together. One decision might impact another so it’s a good idea that everyone involved is on the same page.
Even if Cassie said she didn’t really mind and gave me loads of creative freedom, it was still wise to cement some definites. Funnily enough, I can’t remember what the absolutes were now. I think it was the open back, long sleeves and easy access for breastfeeding. And then, through swatching, I learned that she preferred plainer geometric stitch patterns rather than lacy styles.
Easily Adjustable Crochet Top
Seeing as a baby was on the way, we had to think of what a post-pregnancy wedding outfit might need to include.
Because she was growing a baby, the bride’s measurements were going to change quite a bit over the months leading up the the wedding, which meant measurements were postponed until as late as possible. The final design also needed to factor in lunch, dinner, and snacks for a 6 month-old baby. I added ties at the back of the neck so that they could be adjusted easily according to fit, and the waistband had poppers so it could be undone to allow for easy access to feeding. I am pleased to report that Baby M was very well-fed on the day; the top did not stand in her way at all.
Swatching for Pretty Crochet Stitch Patterns
I came back from the Isle of Wight trip in July with bookmarks in all the pages of the stitch dictionaries. I then left them in the bottom of my crochet basket until October. In the half-term holiday, my family and I drove up to the Highlands of Scotland to stay with Cassie and James. It was Halloween and by then she was starting to look like a pumpkin, which is what you get if you wear orange t-shirts at 8 months.
I had told myself that one of the reasons to visit was to show her a big bundle of different swatches so she could choose favourites. I think I’d managed to complete two by then. Tishie was there as well so I’m sure we must have chatted at length about handmade wedding dresses and things. I don’t recall. Oh well, it was a lovely holiday.
A Swatch Consultation With the Bride
Roll on a few more months and it was time to start properly planning in earnest. No more delays or distractions. With a rucksack of swatches this time, in February I booked a flight to Inverness so we could make some final decisions.
None of the first batch of crochet swatches passed muster. They were too open, too lacy, a bit too flouncy. Some pattern repeats were too big, some overly complicated and some had unexpected little faces in the patterns. However, we eliminated a lot of styles and that was super useful. That weekend, the yarn was chosen and new swatches were worked up over the breakfast table. Crochet cogs were now in motion.
Yarn For A Crochet Wedding Dress
I didn’t really know where to start in terms of the yarn to choose to crochet something bridal. Initial conversations determined that 4ply cotton yarn might be a good place to start so I ordered a few different yarn choices online. I listened to my own advice on yarn substitutionto help with that too.
After all the swatching, in all the different yarn choices, we narrowed it down to two. Rowan Summerlite 4ply and DMC Petra in size 3. Both in shades of Ecru.
We preferred the Rowan Summerlite 4ply. It’s twice the price of the DMC Petra. It feels like excellent quality because it is excellent quality. Unfortunately, the shade didn’t work. Not to mention the softness of the yarn made it very absorbent. Any spills would have soaked in immediately. The Northcotts are a messy family and we knew it was inevitable that Cassie would spill something down herself.
DMC Petra is a shiny, mercerised cotton, which we thought would be better at shaking off spills. The slightly golden colour was spot on too. I used one ball for lots of swatching, then purchased five for the final piece, which was plenty.
We had a sample of the skirt fabric to match with as well.
Should You Use a Finer Yarn for Finer Crochet Garments?
If I was more dexterous and had more time, I think I would have been tempted to use a size 5 Petra yarn rather than the 3 as it would have made a much finer and more delicate garment. My poor fingers though… I was already using a 2mm crochet hook with the size 3 yarn. The making process would have taken too long as finer yarn means more work.
Finer yarn would have affected the look of the stitch patterns too. For example, the diamond shapes on the main body would have come up smaller and I would have had to adjust the pattern repeats to make them look right. To be frank, that would have been too much fannying around.
It is absolutely worth considering finer yarn though. I think it would create beautiful crochet fabric for bridal wear. It just wasn’t possible for this project.
A Made to Measure Crochet Bodice
I may have mentioned once or twice in other blog posts that maths and I are not friends. I am not algebraically blessed but in spite of frequent numeric nightmares, I have learned to respect a spreadsheet.
And you should see the spreadsheet I put together for this one teeny little top! I’m talking at least 150 rows of numbers. It is a lot but I adopted a very strict measure-twice-crochet-once approach.
I began with the standard Craft Yarn Council guide as a starting point but made-to-measure means you get the actual measurements directly from the body you’re making a garment for. In terms of how much information you need to design a made-to-measure crochet wedding dress, a good rule of thumb is: the more the merrier! I did fly back home without a couple of crucial measurements, which was a bit daft. Got them via our What’s App chat a week later.
Quite a bit of research went into how best to measure a body to make your own clothes. I watched a lot of videos about drafting sewing patterns and knitting patterns as there isn’t as much when it comes to designing crochet clothes. I’ve noted some resources below – they’re knitting books and videos.
Drawing daft sketches to work out measurements
How Much Ease to Add For Fitted Crochet Top?
When you’re doing made-to-measure, you also need to consider fit. How much “ease” will you apply to your measurements? Do you want the garment to be very fitted and therefore have negative ease? Or, do you want to add extra room for loose fit crochet clothes and have positive ease? Choices, choices…
Cotton yarn doesn’t have ping or stretch, especially in crochet. Once it’s blocked into shape, it probably won’t change much more. That meant I wanted to avoid negative ease as Cassie wouldn’t have been able to move. In the end, I opted for 2-4 cm positive ease to add to her actual body measurements. I adjusted this where necessary, tweaking places where the stitch count or pattern repeats dictated how much it would actually be.
More than 4cm and it wouldn’t have been a “fitted” top. However, it is difficult to judge exactly how much ease was in the final garment because Cassie lost weight. Post-pregnancy weight loss was always a possibility, it’s why I made things adjustable. But I am disappointed she didn’t eat more biscuits and cake to maintain the same shape once she’d had her measurements taken.
Using Charts to Draft a Crochet Pattern
With all the numbers plugged in and stitch counts calculated, I was ready to start drafting the shaping of the main body and sleeves. Using Stitchfiddle, I drew up the main body and sleeve stitch patterns to print and scribble on. These charts meant I had a visual guide to follow when crocheting.
Charts have been a lifesaver actually. I wouldn’t have trusted my brain without seeing what the numbers had come up with. Spreadsheet maths allows me to calculate the number of stitches and rows needed for each part of the garment whether it’s the upper arm, wrist, waist or bust etc. The charts show me how it all correlates and where I should make potential increases and/or decreases.
I won’t show you everything because I don’t want to give away too many secrets! However, below are some rough drawings and charts to show my chaotic thought processes.
Crochet Set-in Sleeves
I spent most of my time working out the set in sleeves. A set-in sleeve is more fitted and tailored than other sleeve styles. At the top, it has a curved cap that sits neatly and accurately into an armhole that has the same measurements as the perimeter of the cap.
I had never designed a set-in sleeve crochet garment before and it’s hard to find definitive facts on the best way. I am certainly more comfortable with a casual “drop sleeve”. If you have any hot tips on this, please show me where to find them!
My favourite videos were a short series of knitting tutorials by Suzanne Bryan. There was some really useful information about body measurements and great details about set-in sleeves. I watched the videos religiously and used the body measurement advice to help build my spreadsheet.
I also used two knitting books which had more dreaded maths for me to get my head around. Both had their own take on the best way to work out the formulae for knitted set-in sleeves. Given that they both have different advice, I sort of aimed somewhere between the two and went with my gut a little bit as well. Gosh, it’s difficult though! Seeing as there isn’t one agreed way, I wonder if many designers plump for an empirical approach instead?
Both of these knitting books cover an extraordinary amount of information about all garment construction. Wouldn’t it be amazing if such a book existed for crochet?! Do you know of any?
These knitting books have information about designing set-in sleeves. Knitwear Design Workshop by Shirley Paden and Knitting Pattern Essentials by Sally Melville.
A Mock Up on a Form
At the same time as messing about with charts, I also drew up the measurements on paper to create rudimentary pattern pieces. I’m glad I did this step as it was enormously helpful.
What I haven’t mentioned thus far is that from the week after I left her in Februry, to a week or two before the wedding on June 1st, Cassie was off galivanting across the world. We couldn’t do fittings for the dress!
I worried slightly but perhaps not as much as I could have. Just look at my band of helpers pictured below. Tishie had two borrowed dressmaker’s dummies so I paid a visit to the New Forest, to Dad’s house, so I could use them. Turns out neither of them could be adjusted to Cassie’s size but nevermind, one provided a similar enough shape for me to drape parcel-taped calico across its polka dot form. It was a much needed step as I went away with a few redrafts.
It was also an opportunity to see how the skirt and top might look when together. Definitely a helpful stage.
Tishie has similar arms to Cassie so I used her to determine if I was on the right path for the sleeves. Another boon. I added an additional cm in length and width thanks to that try-on. Mr PP, the boer goat, was totally useless. He just walked over everything and stank of pee.
Time to Crochet A Wedding Dress!
With the yarn and stitches worked out, measurements written down and charts drawn up, it was time to get making. I was really looking forward to starting but simultaneously terrified. It could all go horribly wrong! However, by the time all of the above had been titivated to the point of excess, it was April. Time to pick up the crochet hook!
In the next blog post about how I designed a crochet wedding dress, I’ll talk more about the chosen stitch patterns (there are four of them!) and how they all came together. And I’d better not forget to mention the details such as the buttons and lining.
I’ll also aim to answer any questions, if you have them?
I know I haven’t told you about Tishie’s beautifully layered, silk and tulle skirt here (it was delicate and floaty and works so so well with the top). Combined, everything worked out just as we’d hoped. Oh, and Cassie crocheted a tie for James in matching colours! It was a proper team effort.
And before I leave Part 1, here are a few takeaways for making a crochet wedding dress.
1: Measure twice, thrice, four times, crochet once.
2: Make a mock-up out of cheap fabric, it is a very useful step.
3: If the bride has a baby whilst you’re crocheting her dress/top, make it adjustable!
4: If you can, ensure the bride is available to try on the outfit a few weeks before it’s needed. You might need to make adjustments.
Mr PP investigating the important work of a crochet designer.
This morning, my phone reminded me that three years ago today I was putting the finishing touches to this striped crochet shawl pattern. Times flies…
I designed Decked Out to be just like deck chair fabric. It was the design idea for a magazine commission all about going to the beach. I think it fits the brief quite nicely.
Three years ago we were going away for a sunny weekend in Cornwall. I’m not usually brave enough to take crochet commissions on holiday but I think I’d left it very late and I was dancing pretty close to the deadline. I needed it done ASAP so it travelled with us, a few hours away, just a little bit deeper into the West Country.
Don’t worry, it didn’t get sand on it. I left it at the B&B when we went to the beach!
Decked Out; A Striped Shawl Pattern
To celebrate its birthday, I’m releasing Decked Out for the first time since it appeared in Inside Crochet magazine. And if that’s not exciting enough, it’s right here on the blog now too! Keep scrolling for the striped shawl pattern full of bright, fun colour blocking. Or, you can buy both ad free UK and US versions of the pattern over on Ravelry, or in my Etsy store.
Oky doky, this is a lovely and simple shawl for those who fancy something a little bit more than basic stitches.
I used two kinds of stitches in this crochet design. The majority of the main body uses one of my favourites, the UK half treble / US half double worked in the front third loop. It creates beautiful ridges that provide a gorgeous texture. Then I finished it off with a classic rib of post stitches. If you have the yarn spare, add another couple of rows. I think it’s look really good.
What Yarn etc Do You Need for Your Crochet Shawl?
The yarn I used to make the Decked Out shawl is Milla Mia Sweden, Naturally Soft Merino. It’s 100% Superwash merino, 50g/ 125m/ 136yds which is sold as a sport weight yarn.
I used this soft and squishy yarn with a 3.5mm hook. I didn’t do a gauge swatch as tension doesn’t really matter for this shawl. But as you work your shawl, pay attention to the feel of the fabric. You’ll know if it looks too loose or feels too stiff. If you don’t like the squish of the fabric, just try a different hook size.
If you can’t get hold of the yarn I used, read all about Yarn Substitution to find an alternative that will work for you.
Special Stitches Needed for Your Shawl
UKhdc / US htr in 3rd front loop only: instead of working under the 2 loops that form a “V” at top of st, insert hook in horizontal loop that sits at front of st below the “V”.
For the visual learners amongst you, check out my free pattern for a chunky scarfthat uses the same stitch. That’s the link to the video tutorial.
Abbreviations – US terms
BPdc = back post double, ch = chain, ch-sp = chain space, dc = double crochet, FPdc = front post double, hdc = half double, st(s) = stitch(es), sp(s) = space(s), sl st = slip stitch.
Notes Before You Begin
The following striped shawl pattern is in US terms but if you buy the ad free PDF version, it comes in both US & UK terms.
Please note that I haven’t included where to change colour within the written pattern. Instead, there is a chart (below) that will tell you how often you need to change colour. It also includes the stitch count for the end of every colour change (it’s the stitch count for the last row of each colour used).
If you love the crochet ribbing and want to explore it further, take a look at my post all about the best crochet ribbing!
With YA make a magic circle, or ch4 and join with a sl st. Row 1: 1ch (does not count as a stitch here & throughout), 1dc, 2hdc, 2ch, 2hdc, 1dc in magic circle, turn – 3 sts per side.
Row 2: 1ch, (1dc, 2hdc) in first dc, hdc to center, (1hdc, 2ch, 1hdc) in 2ch-sp, hdc to last st, (2hdc, 1dc) in last dc, turn – 6 sts per side.
Row 3: 1ch, (1dc, 2hdc) in first dc, hdc in front 3rd loop to center, (1hdc, 2ch, 1hdc) in 2ch-sp, hdc in front 3rd loop to last st, (2hdc, 1dc) in last dc, turn – 9 sts per side and increasing by 3 sts per side every row.
Continue in pattern, following chart (below) for color order/stripe sequence.
Row 4 – 67: Rep row 3 – 201 sts.
Edging Row 68: 1ch, 3dc in first st, [2FPdc, 2BPdc] to center 2ch-sp, (2dc, 2ch, 2dc) in 2ch-sp, [2BPdc, 2FPdc] to last st, 3dc in last st, turn – 205 sts, increasing by 4 sts per side.
Row 69 – 71: Rep 68 – 217 sts.
Fasten off and sew in ends.
Block using preferred method.
Follow This Colour Chart
In the PDF pattern you can purchase, this helpful chart is colour coded to make it a little bit easier to follow. It’s still not difficult but I like it to be pretty!
Rows
Yarn
St count @ end of colour block.
1 – 12
A
36
13 – 16
B
48
17 – 20
C
60
21 – 24
D
72
25 – 32
E
96
33 – 36
F
108
37 – 44
G
132
45 – 52
D
156
53 – 56
A
168
57 – 58
E
175
59 – 66
C
198
67 – 71
B
217
And it’s as simple as that! I hope you like this striped shawl pattern. Let me know if you make it and add it to your Ravelry project page too.
Join As You Go Ribbing, or JAYG ribbing is an excellent technique you can use with all sorts of crochet projects. Its meaning is literal; as you work your ribbing, up and down, you anchor it to a main piece of crochet fabric with a couple of slip stitches every other row.
I have used a few different stitch patterns for Join As You Go ribbing and now have my favourites (I’ll share a few stitch patterns below). JAYG is perfect for crochet sweaters and cardigans, you can use it for the waistband, neck band and cuffs. It also works brilliantly for a blanket or shawl border.
I often find that the starting point is the fiddliest bit of many crochet patterns, and that’s true here, I’m afraid. But as is normal, after a couple of goes it becomes much easier and you’ll wonder why you were so worried about trying it in the first place!
To take away any confusion, I have also put together a video tutorial showing three ways to work Join As You Go Ribbing.This includescrocheting ribbing around a corner!
There is very little restriction on what ribbing stitch patterns you can use for Join As You Go, it’s entirely up to you, but I will share a few of my favourites that you may want to try on your own crochet items.
With any of these patterns, you’ll want a round/row of foundation stitches to work into. It’s best that this is in the same yarn and same colour as the ribbing or main fabric because it will help blend the joining stitches tidily. Obviously, this depends on what you determine to be the right side or wrong side. Experiment with a swatch before you embark on your actual project to work out what side you’d like to start on.
Even if the stitch patterns themselves look the same on both sides, where they’re joined to the fabric, you can see the slip stitches on one side. Aim to make this the wrong side where possible, and in some of the patterns below, I do point out which is the right side, but in the case of the Yarn Over Sl St pattern, my favourite side of that stitch happens to show the slip stitch joins. Ah, well, you can’t win them all. But, this is why it’s a good idea to use the same colour for the foundation, it hides your sins….
Please note that for all of the stitch patterns included here, I haven’t paid much attention to stitch multiples. I’m often happy to fudge the row I end on. I hope you’re not outraged. I am better behaved in my published patterns, I promise!
Gudrun Shawl with US hdc front third loop ribbing
How Many Stitches Do You Need For Crochet Ribbing?
The number of chains you need to start your Join As You Go Ribbing is entirely up to you. The patterns here have been lifted from some of my designs, and they have been written for different yarn weights and with different design elements in mind. Also, the depth of your ribbing will mostly depend on your aesthetic and what you think looks best.
However, as a general rule, I use fewer chains for heavier weights of yarn. The buttonband for the Perfect cardigan, which is an aran weight garment, has about 8 sts. My Little Fluffy Cloudscardigan is crocheted with DK yarn, and there are a couple more stitches for a (roughly) similar depth.
Make a swatch and decide how many stitches look the best for what you’d like the ribbing for.
Which Stitch Pattern is Best for Crochet Ribbing
I cover more on this in my first crochet ribbing blog post, but a lot of it is down to personal preference as well as what you’re using it for. This is just my opinion, but if you accept that it doesn’t quite grip or stretch as a knitted rib does, then you won’t be disappointed.
Do you want your crochet ribbing to be easy to work up? Look great? Have some stretch? Each of these factors is impacted by the stitch that you choose. If you’re using only slip stitches in the back loop only, they’re more stretchy, so have great functionality; they look awesome as well. But they’re also fiddly and require consistent tension. If it’s a beginner project, then single crochet back loop only (blo or BLO) would be a good choice. That’s why I’ve included the latter here, but if you read the other blog post, you’ll know it’s not actually one I like very much…
How Many Slip Stitches Should I Join With?
The number of slip stitches required for anchoring to the foundation row depends on a couple of different factors: Do you want it to be flat or flared? The stitches you’ve chosen to use, how wide are they?
The wider the stitch, the more slip stitches you should use. This is why some of my patterns use three slip stitches and others, only two.
Take a look at my colourful crochet sweater, Milis (pic below). It has Join As You Go Ribbing at the neckline, waistband and cuffs. The stitch pattern uses a combo of US hdc / UK htr and slip stitches. There’s approx 5cm positive ease in this sweater, which is less than other designs I’ve made. I was a bit worried that adding shaping at the waist and cuffs (by cinching it in) would affect the fit, so the ribbing here is flat/inline with the sweater.
Conversely, I dislike fitted, tight necklines; I feel strangled. Therefore, I often design open necks with lots of breathing space. Milis had lots of that, but I needed to be careful. Too much space and it’d end up as an off-the-shoulder top, which was not the intention. All of this to say, I used the same stitch pattern throughout, but for the cuffs and waist, I attached the ribbing with two slip stitches; at the neckline, I used three.
This simple change gathered the neckline just enough so that it fits just like Goldilocks. Not too big and not too small.
The JAYG Stitch Patterns
The Easiest JAYG Ribbing
Let’s start with the simplest stitch pattern for Join As You Go Ribbing. It’s all worked with US single crochet stitches / UK dc stitches. Both sides of the ribbing are the same, and it’s all worked in the back loop only.
Pattern (US terms are used – my UK friends probably know that a US sc is a UK dc): Chain 13 (or however many stitches you like). For this starting chain, work into the back bumps. Row 1: 1sc in 2nd ch from hook, 11sc, sl st in next 2 sts of foundation round, turn. [12 sts] Row 2: Miss 2 sl sts, 12sc BLO, turn. Row 3: 1ch, 12sc BLO, sl st in next 2 sts of foundation round, turn. Row 4 & 5: Rep Row 2 & 3.
The Road To Nowhere is an asymmetric crochet shawl that uses US sc / UK dc in the back loop only. The JAYG ribbing is worked all around the outside in painstaking fashion. Yes, it took ages. Yes, it’s so worth it!
The Front Third Loop Rib
I really love this one! Look at the tidy button band of the Perfect Cardigan (pictured below), it’s so pleasing!
What’s the front third loop?! Instead of working under the 2 loops that form a “V” at the top of the stitch, insert the hook in the horizontal loop that sits at the front of the stitch below the “V”. This pushes the stitch forward to produce a rib-like effect.
Front Third Loop Rib Pattern: With the right side facing, attach the yarn to your project. For the starting chain, work into the back bumps. Chain 8. Row 1: 1hdc (a UK htr) in 2nd ch from hook, 6hdc to end, 3 sl sts into next 3 sts of main body, turn. 7 sts Row 2: Miss 3 sl sts.Working in the front 3rd loop (here & throughout) 7hdc, turn. Row 3: 1ch, 7hdc, 3 sl sts into next 3 sts of body, turn. Repeat Rows 2 & 3.
The Perfect Crochet Cardigan!
Yarn Over Slip Stitch Ribbing
This ribbing uses a combination of yarn over slip stitches (YO sl st – aka a US hdc/ UK htr slip stitch) and regular slip stitches, all in the back loop only.
YO Sl St Ribbing Pattern: Chain 10 or however many stitches you like. Row 1 (w/s): Working in back bumps, YO sl st in second ch from hook, YO sl st to end, sl st in next 2 sts of foundation row, turn – 9 sts. Row 2 (r/s): Miss 2 sl sts, 9sl sts BLO, turn. Row 3: ch1, 9YO slst BLO, sl st in next 2 sts of foundation row, turn. Rep Rows 2 & 3 to end. Fasten off.
If you’re interested in a tidying tweak for this ribbing pattern, on the last slip stitch of Row 2, work into both loops. Whilst not necessary, I think it creates a neater edge.
What About Creating Corners?
It took me a while to work out the best number of repeats. It depends on how acute your corner is, but you can use JAYG ribbing around corners. Not only did I do this in the Road to Nowhere shawl, but I also added ribbing to myGudrun shawl, which was designed especially for the first issue of Moorit magazine.
When working the initial foundation row/round, make sure to have three stitches in a corner. The increase rows will be worked over those three stitches. Or if you prefer, play around with a number of increase rows that’s going to work best for your design.
Join As You Go Around a Corner
The below is pilfered from Road to Nowhere and uses single crochet BLO. Potentially, for other stitch patterns, this may be too many increases. You can also try other ribbing stitch patterns. For example, Gudrun uses the front third loop rib around the outside.
JAYG Ribbing Around a Corner Pattern: Work in a 2-row stitch pattern of your choice until you get to the first stitch of a corner. Work 1 sl st into the first corner st. Corner st 1: rep your two-row stitch pattern three times – sl st in same st after first two repeats, sl st in next st on last row of final rep. Corner st 2: rep your two-row stitch pattern three times – sl st in same st after first two repeats, sl st in next st on last row of final rep. Corner st 3: rep your two-row stitch pattern three times – sl st in same st after first two repeats, sl st in next st on last row of final rep. Corner complete.
And that’s it! As always, I can write a lot about crochet! I hope you find these stitch patterns useful. Are you a fan of Join As You Go crochet ribbing?! What do you use it for?
Whilst I’ve linked to Ravelry for the patterns above, you can also find my crochet designs in my Etsy shop and Lovecrafts.
This is one of my earliest designs from 2017, a striped crochet shawl that I put together after visiting my first ever yarn festival. I made two versions, one from with yarn I purchased at the Edinburgh Yarn Festival (EYF) and one I made at the request of my bestest friend.
This is a fabulous beginner project for new crocheters too. The shawl is crocheted sideways from one point to the other. Simple increases build to the centre of the shawl and then decreases work their way back to the other end.
I absolutely love this shawl! The colours speak for themselves, I didn’t want fancy stitches overshadowing their awesomeness. The simple striped stitch pattern means that this is a super relaxing project too. The results are contemporary and sophisticated.
Scroll down to grab the free pattern, or you can buy a PDF version in my Raverly shop and it is also available in myEtsy shop if you prefer. And whilst you’re here, don’t pass up the opportunity to peruse my other free crochet patterns too!
Using Tonal Yarn in Crochet
The yarn I bought from EYF 2017 was three skeins of sport weight merino from Dandelion Yarns (320m/350 yards approx per 100g). I think it was called Rosy Sport. It was probably one of my first proper splurges on indie dyed yarn. I remember my sister being shocked that I was willing to buy three skeins of yarn without a crochet pattern in mind!
The tonal quality of the hand dyed yarn works beautifully in this triangle shawl design. I think it’s semi tonal yarn, it could be more of a semi solid. I understand the difference is quite subtle but I always forget exactly what it is, oops! Either way, the subtle changes in tint work well for a shawl using UK treble/US double stitches. You can see the different tones but it’s not overwhelming the simplicity of the design. I reckon that anything more than a speckled yarn you’d get a lot of colour pooling.
All of that to say, I was very much drawn to the delicate tone changes in the skein. It works very well in crochet. However, if you’re a fan of more variegated yarns, you could use them for the contrast stripes for a not so busy pattern.
Using Other Yarns
A plain striped crochet shawl also works wonders with solid or marled colours too. For the orange and grey shawl, I used Drops cotton merino, which is a DK (50g/110m). If I remember rightly, I think some shades had a slight marl to them (one of the greys, for sure). I chose that yarn as I was given the brief by my bestie for something that wouldn’t itch but was warm. A cotton/merino blend was spot on for this request. However, I needed more of the main colour than I originally assumed; it didn’t go as far because DK is a heavier weight of yarn than sport.
This shawl design is versatile, you can use all sorts of alternative yarns. It would work just as well in an acrylic. However, please bear in mind that using other yarns could have an impact on drape and size. Of the two shawls I made, one was a sport weight yarn and the other a DK. Because DK is a heavier weight, the shawl is larger. And remember that if using different weight yarn, use the appropriate size of crochet hook.
If you’d like to know more about the kind of yarn to use in your crochet projects, check out my blog post about Yarn Substitution HERE.
How Much Yarn Do You Need For A Striped Crochet Shawl?
I used three skeins of Dandelion Yarns Rosy Sport to make the blue, grey and neon triangular shawl and it measures approximately 237xm (93.5inches) in length and 49cm (19 inches) at its widest.
Whilst gauge isn’t critical for this project it will affect how much yarn you need. Most of one skein is needed for the main colour (grey, in this case) but you’ll only need approx 70gr each of the other two colours. (I’d say my tension is average to loose).
For the orange Urban Stripe shawl I used 100g each of the two contrast colours and needed 150g for the middle colour. At the time I think I thought 100g would be enough of the main colour but got half way through, panicked and bought 1 ball more!
I used a 4mm hook for both crochet shawls.
Placing the Contrast Colours
These simple crochet stripes work well in the Drops cotton merino and it works well having tweaked the colour layout too. Unlike the original pattern, I kept all of Yarn A to one side and all of Yarn C to the other. When wrapped around the neck, you get to see both contrasting shades at either side. I clearly didn’t give this much thought until after I’d finished the first one. When designing a crochet shawl pattern, think about how it will be used by the wearer! I realised that keeping the contrast colours to their own sides was a better idea because the shawl has been worn as a scarf (check out the first photo in this blog post to see how those colours show both sides when wrapped around).
Striped Shawl Pattern
The pattern is written in UK terms but it only uses 1 stitch, the US double crochet!
You will need some yarn and a crochet hook that suits that weight of yarn. Please see above for details about yarn quantities. For both of my shawls, I used a 4mm hook.
This second version turned out slightly larger than the first blue/grey/neon shawl (approx 15cm longer and 4cm deeper).
The 3 chain at the beginning of rows counts as a stitch. You can swap this out for a different method if you prefer. I’d be tempted to these days. Check out my video tutorial on alternatives to a chain 3 HERE.
For decrease rows the 2 chain counts as part of tr2tog so don’t work into it.
If you have leftover yarn, tassels would be a great addition!
Tension of the sport weight (blue/neon) shawl: Work the first 16 rows of the pattern. Triangle measures 9cm x 19cm x 21cm (3.75 x 7.5 x 8 inches)
Special Stitches tr2tog ( same as a US dc2tog): Yrh, insert hook into first st, yrh & pull through (3 loops on hook), yrh, pull through 2 loops, yrh, insert into next st, yrh (4 loops on hook), yrh, pull through 2 loops (3 loops on hook), yrh, pull through last 3 loops.
Pattern
(Use in conjunction with the listed colour order of stripes, below) Row 1: Ch4, 1tr in 4th ch from hook, turn. Row 2: Ch3, 1tr in same st, 1tr in next st, turn. Row 3: Ch3, 1tr in next st, 2tr in last st, turn. Row 4: Ch3, 1tr in same st, 1tr along to end, turn. Row 5: Ch3, 1tr along, 2tr in last st, turn. Repeat rows 4&5 until you have 83 rows. Row 84: Ch2, 1 tr along to end, turn. Row 85: Ch3, 1 tr along to last 2 sts, tr2tog over last two st. Repeat rows 84 & 85 to end. Fasten off and sew in ends!
Colour Order of Stripes
Note: If you’d like some of each contrast colour to show at either side of your neck as you wear the striped shawl wrapped around like a scarf, keep contrast color A for all stripes on the increases and use contrast colour b when working the stripes during the decrease rows.
Soak the shawl in lukewarm water and a splash of wool wash soap until thoroughly wet. Rinse and gently squeeze out most of the water then, remove excess water by rolling (gently smooshing) it in a towel. Pin out onto blocking boards and leave to dry. If you’ve made you shawl with acrylic yarn, give it a light steam block to provide a touch of even drape. Don’t be too aggressive as you can melt the acrylic very easily!
